With a thriving food and drink scene, historic centre, and charming riverside location, Portugal's second city is hiding in Lisbon's shadow no longer. If you'd visited Porto even a decade ago it was a different story, with much of the old town in disrepair and little to encourage tourism, however thanks to a major clean up and a flurry of new business revitalising the city, it has become a major destination in its own right.
I spent a few days exploring much of what the city has to offer, from modern international cuisine to traditional port tasting, and plenty of sumptuous tile-work. Here are a few of my favourite spots and must-dos, though this is by no means exhaustive. Porto is a city to wander around, get lost in, and discover hidden moments that make the city unique, but hopefully these tips will give you a bit of a head start.
Things To Do
Though its convenient location from London makes it a solid weekend getaway option, there is enough to do in Porto to warrant a longer stay. I've included an overview of the main sights, but a few additional places I would have liked to have seen but didn't get time for include Livraria Lello, a striking bookshop turned museum that inspired JK Rowling's Harry Potter series, Serralves, an art deco museum and park, Sao Bento railway station for more tiles, and a river cruise down the Duoro, for Porto views and Port drinking.
Igreja do Carmo
Portugal is known for it's blue and white tiles, and Porto offers plenty of opportunities to seek them out. Igreja do Carmo, a beautiful baroque-rococo church was probably my favourite of the bunch, standing tall in a buzzy part of the Old Town. If you want to take pictures, arrive early as it gets busy fast. You can then head to nearby Zenith, Porto's hottest brunch spot, to fill up on eggs and avocado before the queues form!
Palacio da Bolsa
Though named a palace, Palacio da Bolsa is actually Porto's stock exchange building. Why stocks require such grandeur I do not know, but it's a pretty impressive sight, with several rooms open to the public via daily guided tours (check in advance for timings, and plan to be early as tours book up quickly). It's a fairly quick tour, around half an hour, and honestly the first few spots are nothing special, however it's worth it for the final stop, the resplendent Arab Room (pictured). If you're looking to get snaps it's a bit tricky as part of a group, but not impossible.
Capela das Almas (Chapel of Souls)
Another of Porto's iconic blue-tiled religious buildings, Capela das Almas is a stunning example of Portuguese architecture, with striking blue and white tiles depicting the lives of Saints. I'll admit I got so frazzled shooting outside (it's on a main road and there's a bus stop nearby which made things very busy!) that I completely forgot to take a peep inside, but for the exterior alone it's worth a visit.
Porto Cathedral
Though perhaps not as grand on the outside as some of the many chapels and churches that make up the city, Porto Cathedral is nonetheless worth a visit for the blue-tiled cloisters and ornate altar that are the highlights of the interior.
It's fairly small inside so doesn't take long to look around, but it's location within a square at the top of a hill adds to its value, offering lovely views of the city.
Porto Views
With its hilly terrain and prime placement on the Douro river Porto has no shortage of gorgeous views. This spot is the middle of nowhere off a street called Passeio das Fontainhas, but it makes for a nice picture! Head to the bridges or take a boat for views from the river, make the hike up Clérigos Tower, or just get lost and find your own spot!
Port Tasting
You can't come to Porto, the home of port, and not take a trip to one of the many cellars that line the Southern side of the Douro. Even if you're not the biggest wine fan, the rich history of port and its presence in the city is worth discovering, and there are so many options from full-blown tours to small independent cellars which will let you look around for a couple of euros.
I visited Taylors, one of the bigger Port cellars, where you're given an audioguide for a self guided tour, which takes about an hour. Personally I'm not a huge fan of group guided tours so this was perfect as you can go at your own pace and skip bits that don't take your fancy. The tour takes you through the cellars and explains the history and process, and you get to try two of their ports at the end, which is included in the ticket price. This was easily the highlight, as they're served in a peaceful garden terrace - a lovely spot to while away the afternoon with a glass or two and a bite to eat.
Brunch in Porto
Zenith Porto
Zenith is a Porto institution, and with good reason. A brunch restaurant and cocktail bar in a hip part of the Old Town, Zenith attracts queues from opening for their lengthy menu of brunch staples. I ordered the 'Pancakes Zenith', a hefty portion of cheese, mushrooms, spinach and tomatoes heaped onto pancakes, with a side of bacon. You know how usually you order a side of bacon, and they give you a measly couple of rashers? Well not Zenith, whose bacon helping was more than generous, and completely delicious. It's the kind of place you could visit every morning of your trip, and not get bored of the menu - if you're willing to brave the queues, that is.
O Diplomata
Pancakes are clearly a popular offering in Porto, so much so that O Diplomata, a cosy brunch spot round the corner from Zenith, serves little else. You can personalise your pancakes with a variety of toppings, or go for one of the savoury set breakfasts.
I chose a savoury cheese and bacon pancake which was more like a toastie, alongside their gloriously rich and chocolatey hot chocolate. I know, calling a hot chocolate chocolatey isn't the best descriptive writing I've ever done, but it honestly was, that thick gloopy real chocolate that you rarely find in the UK but which is waaaay better than our usual watered down interpretation.
This is another spot that attracts queues, so get here early or be prepared to wait for a table.
Mercador Cafe
Located on a main tourist strip in the centre of Porto, Mercador Cafe is a quaint spot with a French brasserie vibe. The menu is simple and unfussy, with eggs, toasts, and staple options like granola. The food arrives without any photo-worthy gimmicks - our goats cheese toast is heaped with lumps of cheese and apricot jams, whilst the eggs benedict offering is two large poached eggs vying for space on an English muffin, lathered with hollandaise. The latter was nothing to write home about though perfectly filling, the former goats cheese surprisingly tasty considering its unsuspecting appearance. Service is a bit patchy, but if you're looking for a basic breakfast to start your day this is a solid option.
Dining in Porto
Viva Creative Kitchen
Ravenous one evening in the city centre on the hunt for food, I found Viva Creative Kitchen listed on Trip Advisor as the second best rated restaurant in Porto. High praise indeed, but I assumed that meant getting a table would mean months on a waitlist. But in fact we were lucky to grab one of the last tables.
A small plates restaurant with a good selection of vegetarian options (this is extremely tough to find in Portugal!), Viva is a cosy, lively little spot with friendly (though somewhat rushed off their feet!) staff that makes for an all round enjoyable experience. They serve a mix of small sharing plates, poke style fish bowls, tartares and salads, with plenty of choice for even the pickiest eaters.
We shared the truffled baked camembert, a gloriously gooey pot of molten cheese with breadsticks, the burrata in port wine balsamic, which was fresh and full of flavour, and the stuffed portobello mushroom, heaped with vegetables. In lieu of dessert (I'm more of a savoury gal) I went back to the menu for the salmon on corn crackers. Everything was innovative, simple yet creative, and completely delicious. I'd recommend perhaps 3-4 dishes to share between two, though you'll want to try everything!
Mistu
(I wrote this review mid meal inspired by a particularly nice glass of red, hence why it's so lengthy!)
We tried Mistu on the recommendation of an Australian couple we met at dinner the previous night, intrigued by their rave reviews and enticed by the lure of white marble tables and natural light which revealed itself with a quick flick through the Instagram location tag. Its a chic “ambient” spot on a quiet side street, with dim candlelit tables and French bistro decor, with round marble tables, wicker chairs and tiles floors. Minimalist, monochrome - and an Instagram dream.
We were seated immediately with a reservation, but it filled quickly - I’d recommend booking in advance. The menu is designed for sharing, with a selection of hot and cold options. It’s not traditional Portuguese, but rather a mix of modern European dishes. The staff (genuinely friendly and attentive) recommend 3-4 dishes for 2 people. With a little help from our server, we narrowed it down to the hump steak, duck salad, beef tartare (apparently the best around) and sun-dried tomato rotolo. FYI if you’re vegetarian / travelling with a veggie: go somewhere else. Like the majority of restaurants in Portugal, vegetarian options aren’t really an option.
The beef tartare arrived first, served with crispy bread, and was mixed in front of us. I was expecting a lot, but it managed to surpass my expectations. Paired with a kimchee sauce it had a bit of a kick and was sufficiently garnished that it didn’t taste like just eating raw flesh. The duck salad came next, with a hefty portion of slow cooked, tender duck accompanied by thin slices of apple, cashews and pomegranate seeds. One of those mixes that sounds dubious on paper (where are the salad leaves?), but paired perfectly.
The hump steak was a slight let down after such a strong start - slow cooked beef is rarely my top choice and this was a bit of a workout for the jaws, a substantial chewy hunk that didn’t quite sit with its accompaniments. These though were the surprising star of the dish, with a hearty sweet potato purée (purées are usually used sparingly, but this was plentiful), paired with a mix of tender mushrooms.
Despite being fairly stuffed by this point (the portions are generous, four between two is a good amount of food) we found the room to share the mango panna cotta. Served alongside a scoop of sorbet and mini meringues, it was the perfect palate cleanser - not too sweet and light enough that it didn’t make us feel too full.
Mistu is by no means a budget option, but for a romantic dinner or special occasion it's a memorable dining experience, and one not to be missed in Porto
Bartolomeu Bistro and Wine
If the bustling, touristy seafood joints along the riverside don't take your fancy, Porto has a range of sophisticated mid-range dining options paring creative dishes with stylish, minimalist interiors. Bartolomeu is one such option. Inspired by the explorations of Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias (apparently the first European to sail to the southernmost tip of Africa, fun fact), the decor is very 'safari-chic', dotted with potted plants and nature-themed artworks lining the walls.
The restaurant also serves as a wine bar and as such the menu is made up of light bites ideally paired with wine. There's charcuterie, of course, but also a small selection of toasties and other small dishes including tartares, crepes and salads. We enjoyed the goats cheese and pistachio toast, alongside the toast with smoked ham, olives and cheese (which could have done with more cheese, but nonetheless the flavour combinations were delicious), and the sweet potato salad.
It's not life changing, but with a pleasant ambience, attentive staff, and a lengthy wine list to work your way through, Bartolomeu is an elegant spot for a low-key evening of wining and dining.
Drinking in Porto
Armazém
I'll admit I struggled to find really great places to include in this section of the guide. The main bars and nightlife are concentrated near Aliados metro by the University, however none of these really took my fancy. This may have been skewed somewhat by the fact that they were full of English football lads in polo shirts downing beers when I visited!
The only bar I discovered on my trip that is really a must-visit is Armazém, a quirky antiques shop with an inside cafe and outdoor bar. I can't comment on the food, but it's a great spot for chilling in the sun with a sangria, before exploring the weird and wonderful treasures inside. The space is massive, with all sorts of strange antiques for sale, however most people just seemed to be congregating here for alfresco drinking.
The Day Trip
Aveiro, Portugal
Seen enough of Porto? Probably not, but if you're looking for a change of scenery or have some time to kill, you can visit "The Venice of Portugal" an hour's drive or train journey away. Aveiro is a charming town set along canals and lined with brightly painted gondolas and pastel Art Nouveau houses. The canals are beautiful and make for a lovely wander, though in season it's swarming with tourists. Another highlight is Costa Nova, Aveiro's beach, which is known for it's primary-hued beach huts. The scene of many an Instagram, these huts were traditionally fisherman's homes but are now more popular for a snap. Food in Aveiro is pricey as the restaurants are largely aimed at tourists - if you're looking for something more local (and affordable) I'd recommend O Legado da Ria. What it lacks in charm and canalside views, it makes up for in value for money and solid, traditional food (try the cod croquettes!).
I'd love to know if you've been to Porto, and if you have any recommendations? Also make sure to check out my other travel guides!
I’ve seen quite a lot about Porto lately and it looks so dreamy. I am obsessed with the blue and white tiles.
xoxo
Jess
The Crown Wings | UK Travel & Lifestyle Blog