Many of my travel plans are guided by where England's Mens Team are playing their fixtures. Which means I'll often be jetting off to obscure parts of Europe on the international break, to watch a football match or two. In this case, England were playing Czechia in Prague in the Nations League qualifiers, so we promptly booked our flights in anticipation.
Except, we didn't actually manage to get our hands on match tickets. We've also been to Prague several times before, and found ourselves rather at a loss. So, we decided to rent a car and explore. Enter Český Krumlov, which a quick Google informed us was a rather nice bit of Czechia - and a two hour drive from Prague airport.
Turns out Český Krumlov is in fact a very nice bit of Czechia indeed. An achingly beautiful city, the skyline is dominated by a 13th century castle overlooking the weaving Vltava River. The historic core is all quaint pastel hued houses, cosy guesthouses and rustic tavernas. It is every bit the picture postcard European town.
Though the fairytale-esque views are the main draw, there's also plenty of things to do in Český Krumlov. There are no shortage of sights to while away a happy few days, and in fact, we discovered that there was much more to explore than the brief two night stay we had allotted would allow. That said, if you only have a day trip or a night or two, it's nonetheless compact enough to comfortably experience the best of the town.
Whether you're looking for how to spend a day in Český Krumlov, or have a more leisurely period to take in the town's manifest sights, read on for the best things to do in Český Krumlov.
Cesky Krumlov 101
- Getting to Český Krumlov from Prague: We rented a car from Prague airport, which was relatively stress free and an easy enough 2 hour drive. The town centre is pedestrianised, so you will either have to park on the edge of town (parking information here), or your hotel may be able to sort you a permit to enter. Note that entry by car with a permit is only available between 17:00-10:30 at time of writing. Alternatively you can get a train from Prague to nearby České Budějovice and get a bus from here, or there are coaches straight from Prague, which takes around 2.3-3 hours. If you're visiting as part of a wider European trip, Salzburg and Vienna are also nearby options.
- How many days to spend in Český Krumlov: We had two nights (1 day) in Český Krumlov, which is about the minimum I'd recommend. It's pretty full on if you want to tick off a few sights, but perfectly doable. However if you'd like to explore at a more leisurely pace, I'd consider 3 nights.
- Getting around Český Krumlov: As the main core is pedestrianised, you'll largely be getting around by foot. Expect cobblestones, steps, and the odd steep incline. Learn from my mistakes, and wear comfortable shoes!
- Sightseeing in Český Krumlov: We wanted to visit quite a few of the main sights (for the sake of reviewing for you, dear reader!), so decided to purchase a Český Krumlov card. This gives you access to five of the main attractions around the city, including the castle museum and monastery museum. It's a decent discount off the standard entry prices, so well worth considering if you're planning on doing a few sights. You can buy the card at Tourist Information Centre and at all participating attractions (except the Castle museum).
Where to Stay in Český Krumlov
- Guest House Olšakovský: Our home in Český Krumlov was this rather lovely guesthouse right in the heart of town (pictured). The location is hard to beat - on a quiet street mere minutes walk from the main square and within ten minutes of pretty much every sight. It also boasts a quite outdoor garden space next to the river, which offers great views with your morning coffee. Staff are friendly and helpful, and our room up on the top floor was very spacious for the price. You can request to park a car for 250 CZK per night, including the permit to drive into town.
- Hotel Krčínův Dům: This well located hotel is filled with beautiful design details and rustic charm - think four poster beds, ornate painted ceilings, and one of the most striking exteriors in the historic centre.
- Hotel Dvorak Cesky Krumlov: A grand property with regal interiors - well befitting a hotel with a prime castle view.
- Orangerie Garden by KH: If the picturesque pink facade and proximity to the castle weren't enough of a draw, this stay boasts a wonderful private garden for guests to enjoy.
- Pension Nina: A stay with plenty of character (just look at those wooden beam ceilings!) at a decent price point for a great location.
Things to do in Český Krumlov
Castle Museum and Tower
Česky Krumlov's castle is a defining silhouette in the town's skyline, towering high over the Vltava river below. There are a number of options for visiting the castle, including themed guided tours of the interiors. The Castle Museum and Tower are included in the Český Krumlov card, so this is what we opted for. The full self-guided tour takes around an hour, showcasing a number of rooms in the oldest part of the castle complex, housing decorative objects and artefacts that trace the history of the castle. However the real draw is the strikingly ornate tower, from which you're afforded sweeping views out over the town.
Note: When wandering up to the castle, keep an eye out for the brown bears that live in the moat next to the property. These bears were rescued from an importer passing through Prague airport, and became the property of the state as they could not be returned to the wild.
Visit the Cloak Bridge
You'll likely stumble across Český Krumlov's unusual Cloak Bridge at some point or other during your trip, but it's such a unique and interesting architectural feature of the town that I couldn't not mention it. The bridge can be found on the bank of the Vltava, connecting the castle complex and gardens beyond in an impressive three-storied formation. Initial construction is thought to date as far back as the 15th century, though it's current iteration dates back to the 18th century.
The main stretch of bridge open to the public takes you into the castle complex via a series of arches, watched on by dramatic stone statues. We headed up to the bridge early one morning to enjoy the sunrise, as it affords excellent views across the city (yep, a lot of Český Krumlov's best experiences involve views!). There's also a cafe a few yards further over that offers another great vantage point while you're there, plus the additional bonus of coffee.
Egon Schiele Art Centrum
I'll be totally honest, we only visited the Egon Schiele Art Centrum because it was included in the Český Krumlov card, so we figured we may as well. However, we ended up really glad we went. For starters, it was gloriously empty in the middle of the day, an ideal respite from battling the troops of tour groups out on the streets.
But it's also home to a varied curation of contemporary artworks, including large scale murals, sculptures, and installations. Luděk Rathousky's colourful paintings were a highlight, as were the incredibly masterful chainsaw created sculptures by Lois Fasching, inspired by the life of Henry VIII. Česky Krumlov's artistic influence is a consistent presence, with an exhibition exploring the connection between famous Austrian artist Egon Schiele and the town, whose mother was born there.
There's also a cafe and shop on site - the latter providing rather more interesting souvenirs than the same knick knacks most of the tourist shops in town peddle!
Museum Fotoatelier Seidel
As photographers ourselves, we were particularly excited to visit the Museum Fotoatelier Seidel, the restored home and studio of Česky Krumlov photographer Josef Seidel. Set inside a handsome Art Nouveau villa, the interior spaces are filled with authentic photographic equipment and memorabilia from the turn of the 20th century. It's offers insight into early photography practices, showcasing glass plate negatives and early cameras. For those with in an interest in photographic history, it's well worth a wander around - and you can even book in for a period inspired photoshoot, if so inclined!
Somewhat frustratingly we were only able to access the ground floor during our visit as a private event was on, so didn't get the full experience. However it was still fascinating as a small look into early processing - and as an antiques buff, I enjoyed all the interiors!
Visit the Monastery Museum
Another place we probably wouldn't have visited were it not part of the Český Krumlov Card is the Monastery Museum. And again, I'm glad we did! Despite being fairly central, the monastery was shockingly quiet, even peaceful, in the middle of the day. Apparently it's not on the mainstream tour group agenda - their loss, I guess.
Česky Krumlov's sprawling 14th century monastery complex covers an impressive one fifth of the historic town centre, and is the town's most important (and vast) sight after the castle. There's a few different areas to explore, including the museum and gallery. We took a spin round the former, which allows access to beautiful cloisters, the ornate Church of Corpus Christi and Our Lady of Sorrows, and a Baroque picture room. We didn't get around to the gallery, however at time of writing it is hosting a Picasso exhibition.
Take to the Vltava
Something we didn't quite have time for, which I really regret, is getting on to the Vltava River. There's plenty of places around town where you can jump on a small boat tour, or even take out a kayak or paddleboard. We saw plenty of people doing this and it looked like a lot of fun!
Where to Eat and Drink in Český Krumlov
Bistro Topinka
Long-time readers will know that I will always find the prettiest breakfast and brunch spots wherever I am, and Český Krumlov was no exception. Our spot of choice was Bistro Topinka, a lovely cafe and restaurant overlooking a quieter stretch of river. The interiors are nice enough, if minimal, but we made a beeline straight out to the balcony to take in the views.
There's plenty of breakfast choices from your usual fare to more unique takes, including a full Czech-style breakfast, topped toasts, and healthy options. The pastrami toast with a whole grain mustard and fried egg was a delicious start to the day, and beautifully plated.
For those who like a hit of sugar to start the day, there’s two great options: chocolate toast and honey toast. We had the former, which was generously slathered in a layer of chocolate flavoured cottage cheese spread. I generally favour the savoury side for breakfast, and thankfully this was not too cloyingly sweet.
It's a beautiful place to fuel up before hitting the streets, and an opportunity to try something a little different from the standard Czech fare.
Švejk Restaurant
I feel I should preface this by stating upfront that Švejk is no secret hidden gem. In fact, it's actually a popular Czech chain that can be found all over the country. We did question whether this would be like visiting the UK and recommending eating at a Wetherspoons - but let's hope not.
Regardless, I mention Švejk as it occupies a rather lovely spot in the shadow of the castle. The interiors are beautiful, with painted walls and classic wooden furnishings. It's a great spot to experience traditional Czech dining, with all the big hitters like beef cheeks, goulash, and dumplings on offer.
I tucked in to braised beef with bread dumplings, whilst Adam tried the "Kreplach" - turkey filled dough dumplings in broth. My beef was gorgeously falling apart, with a berry sauce providing a tangy counterpart. I have to admit, I don't much understand the appeal of bread dumplings (are they really dumplings, or are they just slices of bread?) - but to each their own.
If you're looking for a cool, under the radar "I know a place" spot, it's probably not Švejk. But if you want to experience a classic Czech dining institution, it's well worth trying.
Krčma Šatlava
As soon as we arrived in Český Krumlov we made a beeline to dinner at Krčma Šatlava. A traditional spot to experience hearty Czech dining, this atmospheric tavern hosts diners in a cave-like, moody space, lit by flickering candles and a vast woodfire grill.
The specialty here is heaving platters of mixed meats, available for two or four. It comprises a generous portion of pork knuckle, pork and beef ribs, chicken wings, and sides of baked potatoes slathered in sour cream, sauerkraut, and potato rosti. In theory there are other things on the menu, however I didn't see anything else head out from the kitchen during the duration of our meal.
You may not love everything (I struggled with the pork ribs, and much preferred the beef rib), but it's a fun way to try a lot of different things at once. Advance bookings are recommended, however we lucked out with a Saturday night walk in. It's heavy food, so come hungry!
Apotheka Bar
In a city that is packed out with kitschy souvenir shops and touristy tavernas, you might not expect to be able to get a decent drink. But Apotheka, a former pharmacy in the shadow of the castle, is a surprisingly sophisticated cocktail bar. You're welcomed by an impressively well-stocked back bar, which sets the scene for an impressive drinks selection.
The menu boasts a rambling list of signature serves, twists on classics, and even a selection of hot options for cosy winter nights. You can also order a classic - I was craving a French 75 and they made that for me. Simple, timeless, and well balanced. Adam could have a side hustle in reviewing Bloody Marys, he’s such an enthusiast, and declared their twisted version, the Eleanora, in his top 10. High praise indeed.
Note: Photos are not allowed, however they were kind enough to let us take a few snaps for this guide!
Czechia is so much more than just Prague, and Český Krumlov is proof. The fairytale town is utterly beautiful, sure, but it's also got so much to recommend itself besides.
This is by no means the be all and end all of things to do in Český Krumlov, but I hope it provides you with a solid starting point if you've only got a day or two to explore the town. As always, if you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, please do pop them down below. And have a wonderful time exploring!
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