Italian Summers are a thing of legend. Rustic coastlines, ancient cities, quaint old towns, aperol and gelato. And nowhere does it better than Puglia. The Southern Italian region is the perfect place for a quintessential Italian summer holiday, with plenty of charming towns, beaches, and local culture waiting to be discovered by the discerning traveller.
There is no one major destination within the region, but rather a number of picturesque spots. Head inland to discover the appeal of pretty historic towns such as Locorotondo and Alberobello, or explore beaches and tuck into fresh seafood along the coast. The area also has a food culture all its own, with regional specialties such as olive oil (Puglia is responsible for over 40% of the countries olive oil production), focaccia, and orecchiette.
I spent just under a week exploring Puglia by car. It's the ideal road trip destination, with many towns mere minutes drives from each other. Whilst a few days are sufficient, they don't scratch the surface of this rich region. If you have the time, I'd recommend 10 days to 2 weeks to really discover the area's many charms.
I've put together a brief overview of some of the must visit towns, things to do, and dining in this Puglia travel guide. It's by no means extensive, but I hope it provides a starting point for your ultimate Puglia adventure.
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Puglia 101
When to Visit: The best months to visit in terms of optimum crowds and weather are shoulder season, so May-June, and September-October. July and August are incredibly busy and hot, so best avoided if you can! I visited off-season in November, which had the advantage of being uncrowded, however many restaurants and bars were shut for the season.
Getting There: You can fly in to Bari or Brindisi. The former is towards the North of the region, whilst Brindisi is closer to Lecce and the South. From London, Bari is cheaper and more regular.
Getting Around: Due to the number of small towns and villages worth visiting in the region, Puglia makes an excellent road trip destination. I would highly recommend hiring a rental car at Bari Airport to get around easily and at your own pace. Though there are public buses, they require some time and planning as they're not exactly regular.
Money: The currency in Italy is Euros (€). Card is accepted in most places, but it's worth having some cash on you. Service charge isn't added onto bills, so coins are useful for a small tip - though not mandatory.
Weather: High Summer will see temperatures rising to the mid 30s, whilst shoulder season will be comfortably mid-high 20s. Winters are mild, but the region is best enjoyed in the sun.
What to Pack: Airy clothes for hot summer days, with light layers for the cooler evenings. Flat, comfortable shoes are ideal for cobblestoned old town streets. Don't forget your swimwear if you're planning on heading to the beach!
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Puglia Top 5
01. See the unique Trulli Houses
These unusual conical structures are dotted around the region, but can be found concentrated in the town of Alberobello. For a complete experience, you can choose to stay in one.
02. Visit Matera
Though not technically Puglia, magical cave city Matera is a sight to behold, and easy to work into a Puglia itinerary.
03. Head to the coast
Explore the quaint harbour of Monopoli, or beach hop around Polignano a Mare.
04. Try local foods
Meat and fish dishes are prevalent in this part of Italy, in particular beef tagliata, hearty pork chops, cod and seafood. Puglia's signature pasta is the round, ear shaped orecchiette. It's also known for it's focaccia, soft cheese such as burrata, and a stuffed dough dish called panzerotti.
05. Explore the Old Towns
Some of the most beautiful "Central Storicos" can be found in Locorotondo, Martina Franca (pictured), and Ostuni.
The Puglia Road Trip Itinerary
Five Night Trip Itinerary
Day 1: Fly in to Bari, drive 1 hr to Matera. Night in Matera.
Day 2: Spend 1 day and night in Matera.
Day 3: Drive to Martina Franca, and explore nearby Locorotondo and Alberobello. Night in Martina Franca or Locorotondo.
Day 4: Drive to Ostuni via Cisternino. Night in Ostuni.
Day 5: Drive to Polignano a Mare via Monopoli. Night in Polignano a Mare (or Bari if you have an early flight).
To extend to one week, stay overnight in a Trulli in Alberobello, and add a night in Brindisi.
Two Week Trip Itinerary
Day 1: Fly into Bari. Drive to Polignano a Mare. Night in Polignano a Mare.
Day 2: Day and night in Polignano a Mare.
Day 3: Drive to Ostuni via Monopoli. Night in Ostuni.
Day 4: Day and night in Ostuni.
Day 5: Drive to Brindisi. Night in Brindisi.
Day 6: Day and night in Brindisi.
Day 7: Drive to Lecce, night in Lecce.
Day 8: Day and night in Lecce.
Day 9: Drive to Otranto via the Cave of Poetry. Night in Otranto.
Day 10: Drive to Gallipoli via Galatina, night in Gallipoli.
Day 11: Drive to Martina Franca, night in Martina Franca.
Day 12: Drive to Matera via Alberobello and Locorotondo, night in Matera.
Day 13: Day and night in Matera.
Day 14: Drive to Bari, night in Bari.
The Puglia Travel Guide
Locorotondo
Locorotondo is one of the smaller inland towns, with a picturesque "Centro Storico" made up of quaint cobbled streets, balconies overflowing with flowers, and plenty of Southern charm. Due to a lack of sights it's one of the quieter towns in the region, but very picturesque. It can easily be explored within a couple of hours. Visit at Christmas to see the town get transformed, with elaborate canopies of festive displays taking over the streets.
Restaurants in Locorotondo
We found ourselves hungry and without anywhere to eat on a brisk November night in Locorotondo. Luckily, one of the few places still open out of season was Pizzeria Belvedere. An attractive frescoed ceiling overlooks diners in this picturesque spot, which serves up an extensive menu of pasta, pizza, and local specialities. Honestly, at this point we were just looking for sustenance, and not expecting much due to a lowly TripAdvisor rating, but it ended up being one of the best meals of the trip. I tucked into a Cinquenoci pizza, with a white base, pancetta, walnuts and gorgonzola, and it was completely delicious. With pizzas priced at just 8 euros, it's also very affordable.
Where to stay in Locorotondo
There isn't a massive selection of hotels available in Locorotondo, with AirB&B generally a better option for choice and value. We stayed at Casa Sampietro, minutes from the heart of the old town. The apartment is spacious, ideal for families and groups with 3 bedrooms, and beautifully decorated with some really unique furniture pieces.
For a more luxury experience, I would consider staying at cosy boutique hotel 1783 Dimora d'Epoca.
Alberobello
To see the traditional trulli structures at their very finest, head to Alberobello. A UNESCO World Heritage site, these unique conical structures look straight out of a fairytale. A short drive from Locorotondo and Martina Franca, it's an easy day trip, or stay the night in a trulli to really immerse yourself in the experience.
It's one of the more touristy towns in the region, so I'd recommend visiting early morning or out of season to avoid the crowds. Personally, I found it a tad kitsch and packaged for tourists. However it's still well worth seeing as it's so different from the rest of the region.
Ostuni
Standing tall over the Valle d'Itria countryside, the "White City" of Ostuni is a classic Puglian town in the Brindisi region. The standout is its whitewashed old town, a blend of medieval architecture and meandering alleys. It's a great place to get happily lost in, exploring the maze of quaint corners and historical sights. For the sightseers, there's a 15th century Gothic cathedral, With decent hotel, b&b, and restaurant options, it's an ideal base for exploring the nearby area.
Restaurants in Ostuni
We actually didn't end up eating in Ostuni, as I was too knackered after a sunrise shoot start and opted for an early night over dinner! However if we had eaten, I would have opted for the ever so aesthetic Borgo Antico Bistrot, which looks like the perfect spot for an Aperol and antipasti as the sun sets over the city.
Where to stay in Ostuni
Like many of the towns in Puglia, Ostuni is a equipped with plenty of great apartment stays. We stayed just outside the old town in Casa Filomena, a cosy, rustic apartment with a rooftop terrace.
If you're looking for an apartment within the Old Town, Carole's Terrace is an oh so aesthetic option with a rooftop complete with a hot tub and sea views.
If you have a penchant for luxury and prefer the comfort and amenities of a hotel stay, then I'd consider La Sommità, a beautiful high end hotel in the Old Town that's home to a Michelin starred restaurant and wellness centre.
Martina Franca
eI didn't really have any expectations of Martina Franca before my visit. We stopped by purely because it was on route from Matera to Ostuni, therefore a convenient lunch break stop. However it ended up being one of my favourite towns in Puglia.
One of the bigger towns in the region, it may look unassuming as you first enter, however it's home to one of the prettiest Old Towns in the region. Whilst much of the architecture is similar across the area, Martina Franca has plenty of unique features, including beautiful Baroque churches, grand piazzas, and the striking City Hall and museum, Palazzo Ducale.
Restaurants in Martina Franca
Tucked into a quiet backstreet away from the tourist facing trattorias of the main squares, Osteria Origini is the kind of charming, traditional spot that feels like a slice of vintage Italy. The menu is a concise list of hearty local specialities, with a focus on homespun pastas and meat dishes. I tucked into the tagliata, a hunk of sliced steak loaded with leaves and grated cheese. Tagliata is one of those deceptively simple dishes that can easily fall flat. Origini's rendition, however, was packed with flavour, thick, fatty strips of steak cut through with generous lashings of salt and cheese.
Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare is your quintessential seaside town, but with a bit more charm than say, Skegness. It's famous for it's beaches, in particular the dramatic Cala Porto (also known as Lama Monachile). Nestled into the cliffside with the backdrop of a striking roman bridge as shimmering blue waters lap against the rocks, it's a breathtaking sight. When we visited it was too cold for the beach, so fairly quiet. However I can only imagine how busy it gets in the height of Summer, when the waters heave with local tourists. If the thought of fighting for space doesn't appeal, there's plenty more beaches to discover in the area.
Beaches aside, it's also home to a lovely Old Town. It's not quite as awe-inspiring as some of the big hitters in the region, but still well worth a wander. As one of the more touristy towns in Puglia, there's plenty of shopping, restaurants, and bars to be explored.
Restaurants in Polignano a Mare
Looking for a light lunch, we ended up at Bonta Sotto l'Arco. A cosy no frills spot nestled under an arch, it serves up deceptively simple sandwiches and spritzes. The signature is the octopus sandwich, a generous portion of octopus in a bed of rocket, burrata and sundried tomatoes. Paired with an Aperol Spritz for 14 euros, it's the perfect Italian seaside lunch.
For a truly special meal, Polignano a Mare is home to the famous Grotta Palazzese. This spectacular fine dining restaurant is built into the cliffside, offering a unique luxury dining experience. Of course, a spectacular experience comes with fairly spectacular prices to match, but for a once in a lifetime splurge... I haven't had the opportunity to eat here yet myself, but it's a real bucket list spot!
Monopoli
Situated mere minutes drive down the road, Monopoli is like the quieter, less flashy cousin of Polignano a Mare. It's no less worthy of a visit however, with a Baroque Cathedral, quaint harbour, and picturesque Old Town to explore. Monopoli is also home to a beach of its own, Cala Porta Vecchia. For history buffs, there's plenty of remnants of Monopoli's past, including the remains of the old fort and castle Castello di Carlo, as well as ancient churches and the nearby Egnazia archeological park.
Restaurants in Monopoli
If, like myself, you're a fan of all things aesthetic, I've got just the place. Head south from Monopoli to nearby Capitolo for unparalleled sea views at Saleblu. The chic terrace at this seafood restaurant juts out over crystal clear waters. Service sounds dicey, but for those blues? I'd chance it.
Matera
Sitting just outside Puglia in neighbouring Basilicata, the magical city of Matera is nonetheless a worthy addition to a Puglia road trip. Dramatically perched atop a ravine, the ancient city is thought to be one of the oldest continuous civilisations in the world. The Sassi (Italian for stones, or rocks) are cave dwellings which were carved out of the cliffside, and housed the population as late as the 1950s. Now they've been largely turned into boutique hotels and traditional restaurants. The city is a truly breathtaking sight, particularly at dusk when the lights turn on.
Restaurants in Matera
Matera has a good selection of traditional restaurants set inside the caves. We enjoyed dinner at La Lopa, a cave restaurant with a basement cinema room. With wonderfully friendly staff and a solid menu of traditional dishes, it was a delightful experience.
Right next door is another traditional spot, Trattoria del Caveoso. Despite being out of season it was packed come dinnertime, serving up a menu of hearty local fare.
For a light bite, head to 5 Lira Pizzeria for pizza slices with a view. Or for a special occasion, fine dining spot Regiacorte offers unparalleled views over the Church of Saint Mary of Idris.
For drinks, Zipa Cafe is a unique cafe and cocktail spot built into the rocks. Or if you're looking for a prime vista to pair with your Aperol, head to Crialoss Cafe.
Where to stay in Matera
For a true authentic Matera experience, stay in one of the city's many cave hotels. We stayed in a balcony room at Caveoso Hotel, which was clean and spacious, if a wee bit basic for the price. For a luxury cave stay, I'd also consider Sant'Angelo, Palazzo Del Duca or Palazzo Gattini.
I hope this Puglia travel guide has been helpful, and given you plenty of inspiration for your own Puglia road trip! If you have any recommendations for more things to do in Puglia, must try restaurants, or great places to stay, please do pop them in the comments. I'd love to hear your own Puglia experiences!
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