The end of Summer is a period I always dread. You can keep your cosy jumpers, falling leaves, and pumpkin spiced lattes, I want sun! So a September getaway to the sun-soaked Island of Madeira, situated between the Portuguese mainland and Morocco, was a welcome stop-gap to hold off the inevitability of Autumn (and get a last minute tan!).
As a European mini-break destination Madeira offers something for everyone. For the foodie, there's the lure of freshly caught seafood and a tradition of wine making served alfresco at rustic tavernas. Looking for adventure? Hike the Levadas to be rewarded with breathtaking views, or swim by the ocean in natural pools. And if you're looking to take it easy, there's stretches of golden sand waiting for you in neighbouring Porto Santo...
I spent a week exploring the region, taking in the sites, wining, dining, and generally indulging. It's a relatively small Island so 7 nights is plenty of times to get a feel for the place (or sufficiently unwind by the pool, if that's more your vibe!). Below I've collected some of my favourite experiences in this Madeira travel guide, from things to do in Madeira, where to stay, and the best places to eat and drink.
Madeira 101
Getting There: If you're thinking of topping up that tan, Madeira is fairly speedy 4 hour flight away from London, served by several major airlines. I flew BA which I would highly recommend, but I was in business and they ply you with lots of champagne, which is the key to my heart really!
What to pack: When packing, keep in mind that it's probably going to be hot. Whilst the Island is technically Portuguese, it's actually closer to Africa so the climate is tropical. A swimsuit is a must, but if you're planning on doing any walking make sure to pack layers and comfortable shoes. Ladies, skip the heels. The roads are largely cobble-stoned so you run the risk of seriously sore ankles! There is no need to dress conservatively, however keep in mind that the average tourist is on the older side, particularly due to the plethora of cruise ships that stop at the Island. So probably best not to scandalise Aunt Ethel with anything too racy!
Getting Around: Funchal is the biggest town and where the majority of the tourist attractions and hotels are, as well as being near the airport. It's easy enough to explore on foot, if you don't mind the occasional steep hill. However if you're looking to go further afield (highly recommended unless your trip is particularly short), it's worth looking into hiring a car to get around. Beware though: the roads are bendy and often narrow, which can be scary when you're halfway up a mountain driving on the wrong side of the road!
Where to stay in Madeira: Quinta da Bela Vista
A little outside the main tourist area of Funchal, nestled in a quiet hilltop suburb, you'll find the beautiful Quinta da Bela Vista, a five star hotel with old school charm. Housed across several buildings with ample rooms, two restaurants, and a pool bar overlooking views of Funchal, it's a rambling complex offering plenty to do.
The decor is elegant, with a sense of nostalgia. In fact it might remind you a little of your Grandma's house, but it's charming nonetheless. Agatha Christie's famed detective Hercule Poirot would not look out of place supping tea at the breakfast buffet (though if he wanted something a little stronger, bubbles are also available!).
Speaking of breakfast, it's one of the highlights. There's all the trimmings for a full English, obviously, but also a wide selection of cheeses and cold meats, pastries, fruits and cereals. It's nigh on impossible to go hungry (I regularly overfilled my plate, it was hard to resist everything!). Definitely try the mini pastel de natas when they're fresh - still warm and oozing with custard, they were some of the most delicious I had on the Island. Actually, just try everything. You're on holiday, calories don't count!
Once you're done stuffing yourself, it's time to check out the pool. Arguably the focal point of the hotel, it's a beautiful tranquil spot to while away an afternoon in paradise. Plus, the pool bar serves some seriously good grub when you've finally gotten over the food coma from breakfast!
I started calling the hotel 'home', because it really did feel like it. The staff were so polite, professional, and helpful, and the space itself is so much more than a bed for the night: it can be hard to convince yourself to leave as it's so cosy and spacious!
The only drawbacks were that the wifi wasn't great (but you're on holiday, great opportunity for a digital detox, amiright?), and that the centre of town wasn't easily accessible by foot, however the hotel operates free shuttles to the marina and back so this wasn't a problem. I also struggled with the fact that the gym didn't open till 9 and closed at 18:30, so working out before breakfast or before going to bed wasn't viable. However generally the clientele is a little older so the gym didn't seem in huge demand, therefore I don't think many other people were effected! Besides, any excuse not to exercise...
With rooms starting from 140 Euros, Quinta da Bela Vista is not a budget option. And if you're looking for somewhere where you're part of the action, it's probably not for you. But it's quiet and comfortable, with elegant rooms and charm in spades. For a little bit of luxury, you can't beat it.
Things to do in Madeira
Monte Cable Car & Gardens
One of Funchal's main sights is the cable car connecting the marina to the hilltop neighbourhood of Monte, which offers striking views of the city and ocean below. Whilst most of Madeira's main things to do are further afield, the cable car and gardens are conveniently within the city, so were top of my bucket list in Funchal.
One thing that isn't included in the cable ticket but definitely is a must is the Monte Palace Gardens, which you'll find the entrance to at the top of the first cable car. It's a rambling complex centred around the palace (which sadly isn't open to the public), housing an exotic plant collection from all over the world.
You're handed a map when you enter, which shows three different walking routes you can take: the flower walk, art walk, and a combined walk. However it's quite nice to just got lost amongst the paths, making your way vaguely down to the cafe where you can hand in your ticket for a free 'glass' of wine (what they don't specify is that it's a shot glass of pretty unpalatable Madeira wine).
Though it's a pretty major tourist draw, the complex is big enough that it doesn't feel overcrowded, and has some lovely little spots to discover such as avenues of orchids, and the oriental gardens that feel like you've been transported to the Far East.
There's a second cable car about ten minutes from the first, which tends to be a lot quieter. There's not much at the end except for the botanical gardens, which are located on a steep hill high above the ocean. Unsurprisingly the locations lends itself to some gorgeous views. The botanical gardens make for a nice stroll including some dramatic cacti and a beautiful floral topiary display, however I wasn't all that overwhelmed, especially after the Monte gardens. Maybe it's just garden overload!
If you're interested in visiting, you can either buy tickets for just the cable car, or a combined ticket which includes the second cable car and admission to the botanical gardens.
Is the combined ticket worth it? I wouldn't say it's a must (I wasn't blown away by the botany on show), but if you're keen on strolling around gardens and taking in as much of the views as you can, then go for it.
Pico de Arieiro & Cabo Girao
Madeira is a very mountainous region, which makes for some pretty spectacular views! The two main viewpoints we got to during our trip were Cabo Girao and Pico de Arieiro, both of which are definitely worth putting on the itinerary.
Cabo Girao skywalk is a suspended glass platform at the highest cape in Europe (580m above sea level). It's a short drive from Funchal, and offers stunning views over the city and ocean. As you're literally walking on glass, it can take a bit of getting used to (I wouldn't recommend it if you're scared of heights, it's pretty trippy!).
We decided to drive up to Pico de Arieiro, one of the highest peaks in Madeira, on the same morning that we picked up our hire car as we were getting used to driving on the 'wrong side' of the road. Not the best idea. It's 45 minutes of intense uphill driving around narrow, bendy roads with steep drops, which was pretty terrifying!
However, the views were worth it. You're up above the clouds surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery, and there's a path which you can follow (many people were arriving at the peak from treks through the mountains, which we chose to skip in favour of the comfort of the car..). It gets pretty chilly, so bring layers (and don't just wear a skimpy dress like I did!).
Swimming in Porto Moniz
Porto Moniz is a natural swimming pool by the ocean on the East of the Island, just under an hours drive from Funchal. It's a pretty breathtaking spot, which I'd recommend getting to early to enjoy it's beauty before it gets too busy. We spent a couple of hours here swimming and chilling out, however this got a bit too literal when the sun disappeared behind some clouds... The water was pretty freezing too, but you get used to it! There is an entry charge, but it's only a couple of euros.
Visit Camara dos Lobos
Technically a suburb of Funchal, the traditional fishing village of Camara de Lobos is a short drive from the city and a lovely spot to while away a few hours if you've exhausted all that Funchal has to offer. There's not a huge amount to do, but that's part of it's charm.
Camara de Lobos's major claim to fame is that Churchill used to visit to paint, and you can see why - it's quaint and picturesque, with a pretty bay area and cobbled streets. You'll find the aforementioned Cabo Girao in the region, as well as a couple of good restaurants (reviews below).
Explore the Fruit Market
Right in the centre of the Old Town in Funchal you'll find the market 'Mercado dos Lavradores', a colourful spectacle selling all sorts of exotic fruit, veg, and handicrafts. Whilst it's a little on the pricey side it's still a nice spot for a wander, especially if you're into photography as it makes for some beautiful snaps. There's a slightly less picturesque fishmonger section too, and an upstairs terrace bar which we didn't try but which looked nice!
After working up and appetite we stopped by a cafe opposite the fruit and veg stands within the market compound, which displayed an enticing selection of cakes and sweet treats. It did delicious pasteis de nata, still warm and full of gooey custard, and a truly decadent Kinder Bueno cake. Skip the milkshakes though, my chocolate one tasted like water.
Cocktails at Sé Boutique Hotel
Madeira is more the kind of place to have a lazy glass of wine with lunch than head to the bars for a boozy night, but we did check out one bar during our trip, the rooftop bar at Se Boutique Hotel. Admittedly I was lured in by the gram potential, but stayed for the expertly prepared drinks and lovely bartender.
It's a gorgeous spot, with serious interior goals from the primary coloured walls to the flamingo themed decor. Add to that views of the Funchal rooftops, and you're on to a winner. However, I was concerned that somewhere so clearly design focussed might be style over substance...
My initial plan was one drink, get some snaps, and get out of there, but we ended up staying for several hours because it was just such a lovely place to chill, and the quality of the cocktails was so high that just one would be a waste!
I started with a classic mojito, but the bartender was soon recommending us different cocktails, including house specialities and traditional Madeiran drinks. It's one of those bars where there isn't a menu, but he knew his stuff. Sadly I can't remember exactly what I drank, but there was a yummy apple cocktail, and something that tasted like Christmas... Whatever they were, they were great!
Restaurants in Madeira
O LAGAR
First off, espetadas are skewers of meat, essentially Portuguese kebabs. Yeah, I didn't know that either. Secondly, it's the consensus (on Trip Advisor, at least) that O Lagar is the best place to eat them. My curiosity was piqued...
O Lagar is an absolutely huge place with a large dining room and outdoor area. Judging from the large tables it's used to hosting parties and tour groups, but when we went we had the place almost to ourselves, and went for a table in the peaceful patio area (with company from their in-house parrot).
There are several espetadas to choose from, including different cuts of beef and a chicken option. After some recommendations from our waiter, we went for the classic espetada with a couple of sides. It was simply cooked yet still delicious, relying on the meat's flavours to come out. Being greedy we then also ordered a chicken skewer, which was definitely too much food, but I can also recommend it! The sides were fairly average, but you're not really here for them!
Vila do Peixe
Even on an Island like Madeira fish can be a risk - will you be getting the freshest catch of the day, or something from a supermarket tin (this happened when we tried to order sardines at one restaurant, which surprisingly did not make it into this guide...). So when Sabrina from A Little Obsessed recommended Vila do Peixe for fish, it went straight to the top of my must visit list.
The menu is mainly comprised of fish, which you can choose from their selection of the daily catch. We went for parrot fish, but there were plenty of options including salmon, dorado, and tuna steak. It's prepared very simply but with little seasoning but it doesn't need any, as the natural flavours stand out. There are a range of accompaniments including salads and baked potatoes, which were actually tasty rather than an underwhelming side.
Whilst it's on the pricey side it's definitely one of the better spots for fish, particularly with beautiful views down to the Camara dos Lobos bay. And if you're not into fish, head down the road for their sister restaurant Vila da Carne, which predominantly serves meat.
Taberna Ruel
In the heart of the old town you'll find Madeira's 'Restaurant Street' Santa Maria, which is heaving with everything from classic Portuguese and fresh seafood to a range of international cuisine (I was surprised to see a Korean barbecue restaurant amongst the traditional tavernas!). It's a fun place to wander down looking at menus, but it can be overwhelming trying to decide which will offer the best value and which is just another overpriced tourist trap.
My partner and I tried Taberna Ruel as it offered his favourite dish, seafood cataplana (a kind of seafood stew). Whilst I can't compare it to the other restaurants on the street, I can vouch for the food here being worth trying - his cataplana and my prawns were both fresh and flavoursome. Though the sides were fairly lacklustre (a common thread in Madeira, expect a lot of lukewarm fries and overcooked veggies), the prices were decent and the staff friendly, plus the outdoor tables offer a good spot for people-watching.
Whilst this Madeira travel guide doesn't cover absolutely everything, it's a solid start if you're looking to plan a trip. It's a place where you can really do as much or as little as you'd like and still get so much out of the experience. Whether you're looking to unwind, or an adventurer up for hikes and activities, Madeira has you covered!
I also spent a few nights on the neighbouring Island of Porto Santo, with 7km of golden sand beaches from which to bask in the sun and do as little as possible. I'll be writing a mini guide covering my time there too, so keep your eyes peeled! It's just over 2 hours by ferry from Funchal, or a short plane ride away, and highly recommended if you're looking for a peaceful beach getaway.
Do let me know if you've enjoyed this post or found it useful (or if you haven't, but please be nice!) in the comments, and if you'd like to see any other destinations covered? If you've been, what were your favourite things to do in Madeira?
A big thank you to Traverse and Visit Madeira for this trip, it was such a dream!
Pin Me
