Some places are so popular, it's hard to believe that they could possibly be worth the hype. Well, the magical Ligurian region of Cinque Terre certainly is. The area comprises five quaint fishing villages; Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. A sea of colourful pastel houses dramatically perched against the cliffside overlooking the Ligurian Sea, these charming villages are some of the most picturesque in Italy, if not the world. In fact, they're so picturesque, they even inspired the colourful town depicted in Disney Pixar's Luca.
There's plenty to know before visiting the region, to ensure you get the most out of your stay. I've put together the ultimate Cinque Terre travel guide, with practical information on where to stay and getting around, as well as plenty of things to do in Cinque Terre.
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Cinque Terre 101
Where is Cinque Terre: The region of Cinque Terre, meaning "Five Lands", comprises 5 fishing villages on the Western coast of Italy, in the region of Liguria.
Currency in Italy: The currency in Italy is the Euro. Most places take card, however I'd recommend having cash on hand for emergencies.
How to get to Cinque Terre: I'd recommend flying into the Ligurian capital of Genoa - I flew direct from London with Ryanair. If you're coming from another part of Italy, there are plenty of trains available, best researched on Trenitalia. From Genoa (which is worth a day or two itself!), you can get a regional train to La Spezia, and from there, local trains to the five villages.
How long to spend in Cinque Terre: I've visited twice, both times for 3 nights. In my opinion it's the perfect amount of time to explore all the villages at your leisure. If you're aiming to get a lot of hiking or beach time in, however, you may want to allocate an extra day or two.
When to visit Cinque Terre: As with most popular Italian destinations, I'd recommend skipping peak Summer when the crowds are at their worst, and visiting during shoulder season. This means April-June, or September-November. I actually visited in mid-March, and would highly recommend - there were very few crowds, and we only had one bad day weather-wise.
What to pack for a trip to Cinque Terre: It'll most likely be warm, so light layers are your best bet. Pack a swimsuit if you plan on hitting the beach, or workout clothes and boots (trainers will do!) if you want to hike. There are a lot of steep hills and steps in the region, so comfortable shoes are a must. I've popped my Cinque Terre wardrobe picks down below!
The Cinque Terre Travel Guide
Getting Around Cinque Terre
Getting around Cinque Terre is surprisingly easy. Each of the five villages has a train station, with regular trains running every 15 minutes between them. You can buy single tickets, but if you're planning on moving around, I'd recommend a day or multi-day pass. We bought the Cinque Terre Card, which also allowed access to the hiking routes (more on those later!).
If you're thinking about renting a car, well, imma stop you right there. Parking is extremely limited, and honestly far more faff than is worthwhile. If driving is a non-negotiable, perhaps look at staying in the nearest town, La Spezia, and getting the train in.
There are also ferries around the villages, though I haven't tried them myself so can't comment.
Where to stay in Cinque Terre
Finding somewhere to stay in Cinque Terre can be tricky. As the villages are so small there's not masses of options, and even less in terms of your standard hotel fare. Most accommodation is available in the form of Air B&Bs and apartments. They tend to be fairly no frills, at inflated prices.
I usually stay in Riomaggiore - on my last visit, we booked this apartment. It was pretty small, but relatively affordable (£100 a night in March), and with the bonus of beautiful balcony views. Alternatively, you can find a decent amount of accommodation in Monterosso, or if you're looking for a quieter pace, try Corniglia.
In peak times, prices can inflate dramatically, and decent options may be sparse. Therefore another option is nearby La Spezia. Though technically not Cinque Terre, it's only ten minutes into Riomaggiore, and has lots more accommodation options at more reasonable prices.
Some well rated options in La Spezia include the quirky La Casa dei Treni Affittacamere, the pretty Railway 74, or the affordable Teresa Rooms & Suites.
If you'd prefer the comfort of a hotel, I'd book The Poet in La Spezia, La Torretta in Manarola as a rare luxury experience, or try the dated but charming Locanda il Maestrale in Monterosso.
The Five Villages of Cinque Terre
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore is the first village you reach when you arrive from La Spezia on the train. It's possibly my favourite, although I change my mind daily! This beautiful village converges on a small marina, fenced by crayola coloured buildings.
On both my trips I've chosen to stay in Riomaggiore. Partially because I like being able to explore it before the crowds descend, but also because it has a decent number of (relatively) affordable accommodation options.
It's one of the best villages for grab and go food - you'll spot plenty of shops selling delicious fried seafood cones, and takeaway pizzas (try the local pesto!). But there's also plenty of sit down restaurants and bars, making it a great destination to spend an evening or two.
If you're looking to take a boat trip (at its most spectacular at sunset), this is a great place to start. I've never done it myself as I'm always out of season, but you'll see plenty of shops advertising boat services.
Manarola
Manarola is arguably the "crown jewel" of the Cinque Terre villages. It's the most photogenic, the one whose photo will pop up most often when you search for Cinque Terre. And rightly so - watching the sun set over Manarola is one of my top bucket list recommendations for the region, if not the whole world.
This does mean that it tends to be one of the busiest, so I'd recommend visiting in the morning and evening when the day trippers have departed (and obviously, catch that aforementioned sunset!). I've never stayed here myself, but I imagine it's a great option to base yourself in too, if you want to avoid the crowds.
Though there's no beach as such, in Summer the rocks still fill up with sunbathers looking to top up their tan, and cool down in the waters. There's plenty of great eating, shops, and things to see and do in Manarola, which I'll detail further down.
Corniglia
Corniglia is the only village that isn't on the waterfront, but rather, perched on top of a hill with views out over the sea. There's a rather hefty 382 steps from the train station into town, which is far from a breeze on a hot day. Therefore, it's by far the quietest of the villages.
Though it might not have obvious appeal (the steps are definitely a turn-off!), don't sleep on Corniglia. It's quietness is actually it's biggest draw, providing a respite from the crowds of the other villages. There's fewer accommodation options available here too, so if you're looking for a relatively isolated stay, it could be for you.
We spent a sleepy morning exploring, and really enjoyed the peaceful ambience. There are some lovely streets and old town squares to explore, plus (although it was a wee bit early!), lots of interesting looking bars and restaurants. If you've only got a day or so in Cinque Terre, I'd probably advise skipping Corniglia. However if you've got the time, it's definitely worth a visit.
Vernazza
Vernazza is another picturesque village, and tends to be one of the most bustling. There's plenty of shops, restaurants, and accommodation (well, relatively at least), so it's a good place to consider basing yourself in. I'll admit, it's one I've only ever really passed through, so I don't have masses of tips for it. It's such a lovely village though, I think on my next trip I'd aim to stay here for a change of scenery!
If you've been browsing images of Cinque Terre, you'll probably recognise the famous view of Vernazza from above (pictured). This spot is actually on the hiking trail towards Monterosso, so you'll need to have a trail pass if you go between 9 and 5. Alternatively, start heading towards Corniglia uphill for about ten minutes for another gorgeous (and lesser known!) view back on the harbour.
If you're looking to hike, you'll probably pass through Vernazza, as it connects the coastal Blue Trail between Corniglia and Monterosso. If you're doing the full route, plan to stop for a mid-hike gelato, or finish here with lunch in the colourful harbour!
Monterosso
Monterosso is the first village you reach if you're coming from the direction of Levanto. It's the biggest of the five, where you'll find the greatest concentration of restaurants and accommodation options. It's not as obviously striking as the others, so if you want a truly quintessential Cinque Terre experience, I'd consider staying elsewhere. That said, it's not to be missed! The backstreets still have plenty of charm, and some of my favourite meals were in Monterosso.
The main draw of Monterosso is the beach, as it's the only one in the area. It's open from May to October, when a sea of distinctive striped umbrellas fill the beach, and tourists and locals alike flock to swim and top up their tans. I've never visited during this period, so can't comment unfortunately - next time!
Shop my Cinque Terre Wardrobe
Things To Do in Cinque Terre
Hike the Trails
Cinque Terre is famous for it's hiking trails, of which there are over 40. If you're a serious hiker, it's a brilliant destination for it. However, even if you're not, it's well worth getting a hike or two in. The most popular is the Blue Trail, a coastal path from Monterosso to Vernazza (pictured above is the view approaching Vernazza), and Vernazza to Corniglia (though they can be hiked in either direction). There's also a section between Manarola and Riomaggiore which is meant to be stunning, however due to landslides is closed until July 2024.
I embarked on the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso, which takes about an hour and a half depending on your fitness (and how often you stop to gawp at the view!). I was particularly glad we did it this way round when we started the descent into Monterosso - it was very steep, and did not look fun to ascend!
On that point, you definitely should not underestimate the difficulty of the paths. Though they're amateur friendly, you'll definitely benefit from a base level of fitness. Footwear-wise, hiking boots would be recommend, but trainers will do fine. Just no flip flops! Also, I wouldn't recommend hiking in the height of Summer. We did it in March, and it was hot enough to burn!
In off season, the hiking trails are all free, however in the season you'll need to pay to hike the Blue Trail. Your best bet is to get a Cinque Terre Card, which will cover this plus your train fare.
Take a Boat Tour
If you're looking for a romantic Cinque Terre experience, it doesn't get better than a sunset boat tour. Book in advance online, or you'll see them advertised in the harbours of Riomaggiore and Vernazza. I had wanted to do one on my most recent trip, however unfortunately they don't start till April, so learn from my mistakes!
Swim in the Sea
Despite being a coastal region, there's not actually much choice in the way of beaches. Monterosso has the only sand beach, where you can rent an umbrella and deck chair for the day. I've heard it gets packed out in Summer, so go early to nab your spot! Otherwise, Riomaggiore and Manarola both have rocky outcrops that you'll see people setting beach towels on, and diving off. It's more rustic, but grab a couple of beers and some seafood cones, and you've got yourself a lovely afternoon!
Alternatively, if you're really keen on a proper beach day, consider heading 45 minutes by train to nearby Sestri Levante, where you'll find two free beaches.
Eating and Drinking in Cinque Terre
5 Must Try Foods in Cinque Terre
Pesto
The Liguria region is known as the home of pesto. It's so much more flavourful that the store-bought stuff we're used to. You'll see it served on pasta (trofie al pesto), and it's equally delicious on pizza and bruschetta!
Focaccia
Another regional speciality is focaccia. It's served a variety of ways: plain, with cheese, olives, and onions. All are worth trying! I got back a week ago, and I've been stocking up on focaccia regularly because I miss it so much...
Seafood
Duh, you're by the sea! Look out for cones overflowing with fried seafood (fritto misto). They're a bit greasy, but so good.
Wine
Cinque Terre is home to a number of local wines. Most restaurants will stock them, or head to a vineyard for a tasting.
Anchovies
Called acciughe in Italian, the anchovies in the region are considered particuarly delicious, and are often served fried. I'll be honest, I can't stand anchovies, so I have very little to add here!
Best Restaurants in Cinque Terre
Nessun Dorma
If you're on Instagram (or have done any Cinque Terre research whatsoever), you've probably stumbled across Insta-famous Nessun Dorma. This Manarola hot spot boasts one of the best views in Cinque Terre, making it a real bucket list tick when in the area. The menu is fairly simple, cold cuts and bruschetta topped with a variety of local ingredients, and best paired with an Aperol or Limoncello Spritz. It's the ideal spot to enjoy an aperitivo hour and watch the sun set.
Unsurprisingly, it's incredibly popular, however you can add yourself to the virtual queue by downloading the Nessun Dorma app. Alternatively the offer pesto making workshops during the day, however at a somewhat eye-watering €80 per person, I've not done it myself.
Old School Cocktails and Food
You'd be remiss to visit Riomaggiore and not go further afield than the harbour. High above the town, you'll find one of the best spots for a cocktail in Cinque Terre. Old School Cocktails and Food does great drinks and bites, paired with a gorgeous view back down over Riomaggiore and into the Sea. The interiors feel a bit like the kind of cafe you'd find in Bali, all wicker lampshades and neutral tones. However on a sunny day you'll want to pull up a pew outside for alfresco cocktails, bruschetta, and pesto pizza. Oh, and if you're lucky you might get to make friends with the resident Golden Retriever Layla!
Da Eraldo
There was one restaurant from my 2017 trip that I knew I had to get back to this time around, and it was this. Da Eraldo is a quaint, classic trattoria tucked away in the backstreets of Monterosso. The restaurant serves up ample platters of seafood and charcuterie, as well as classic Ligurian dishes. It's got a cosy, rustic charm that makes it the perfect place to while away an afternoon with a glass of wine and some fresh seafood.
Ristorante La Torre
If you're looking for Cinque Terre restaurants with a view, look no further. Vernazza clifftop spot Ristorante La Torre is a seriously sweat-inducing climb up from town, but for its dramatic spot jutting out over the Ligurian sea, it's worth it. Get here for sunset for the best views - I'd guess you'd need to book in advance in peak season, however in March we were fine just turning up. The menu is classic Italian, with plenty of seafood and regional dishes. We tucked into fritto misto and a seafood platter - nothing to astound, but perfectly decent dishes.
Osteria La Torpedine
Admittedly, Riomaggiore is so small that there are no "hidden gems". There's simply nowhere for them to hide! However, if you're trying to get off the beaten path, Osteria La Torpedine is as close as you're going to get. Tucked away in a back alley off the main street, it's a cosy, charming little restaurant with a small number of intimate tables. The menu is Italian fare, with a focus on seafood and pasta. It's hearty fare, with a homespun feel.
La Smorfino
Liguria is arguably not the best place in Italy for pizza. The local cuisine is generally more focussed on pasta and seafood. However, if you're craving a pizza fix, I'd head to La Smorfia in Monterosso. The pizza menu is extensive, with a whole section dedicated to white pizzas. The pizzas come in regular and large, however the regular is more than ample! I ordered what was pretty much my perfect pizza, topped with three cheeses, ham, mushroom and truffle. On a light, crispy base, with just the right amount of toppings, it completely hit the spot.
An honourable mention also goes to Trattoria dal Billy in Manarola, which I didn't get any snaps of. It's got gorgeous views out over Manarola, and serves up epic sharing plates of delicious seafood pasta.
I hope this Cinque Terre travel guide is a helpful starting point for planning your Ligurian adventures. If you have any more suggestions for things to do in Cinque Terre, please feel free to pop them in the comments!
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