It seems somewhat of a rite of passage, when one hits one’s 30s and is planning a holiday, to suddenly crave fresh air, mountain trails, and the promise of a good long hike. My parents took me (largely reluctantly on my part) on many a walking holiday in their 30s and my formative years. Everyone on my Instagram seems to either be in the Dolomites or the Faroe Islands. And now, as my mid-30s come careening towards me, I find myself trading in beaches and city breaks for the same lure of a nice walk and a cosy alpine cabin.
So, long story short, when it came to planning our annual Autumn road trip, the landscapes of Austria and Slovenia were an easy choice. 2 weeks road tripping through both countries, with plenty of hikes planned in. We started our journey in the former, easing ourselves into the trip with three nights just South of Salzburg at Naturhotel Forsthofgut.
Though disguised as a charming alpine chalet stay, Naturhotel Forsthofgut is so much more. The property boasts a comprehensive spa, family-friendly areas complete with horse riding, art centre, and petting zoo, and a seemingly endless list of activities, all set against a dramatic mountain backdrop with plenty of nature to explore.
It's undoubtedly a luxury stay, but with none of the hoity-toityness that may entail - just really, really good facilities and seamless service. If you're considering a stay, I've put together a comprehensive review of our experience staying at Naturhotel Forsthofgut. Spoiler alert: book the trip!
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Location
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Hotel is located in the Salzburg region of Austria, around 1 hr 20 minutes drive from Salzburg Airport. I would recommend driving - not only is it convenient, it is a ridiculously picturesque journey through valleys bordered by mountains on every side. It isn't far from the German border, therefore you could also combine it with Bavaria, with Munich 2 hours away. We actually chose to visit Naturhotel Forsthofgut as part of a wider Austria and Slovenia Autumnal road trip, combining it with nearby sights such as Gosausee and Halstatt.
The resort is in the immediate vicinity of Leogang, a popular destination for summer and winter sporting activities. Therefore there are a number of other hotels in the area, and various things to do, mostly in the form of hiking trails and cable cars. If you can drag yourself away from the laundry list of activities available at the resort, that is.
As for when to visit? We visited in mid-late October, nicely timed for a backdrop of golden hued trees. However I can't imagine there's any bad season, with peak weather for outdoor activities in Summer, and striking snow capped mountains in Winter.
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Spaces & Places
I was not quite prepared for how vast the complex is. Photos had led me to believe that it would be a dinky little mountain hotel but it is a sprawling resort, so much so that the hotel offers tours at 2 and 5pm. My first bleary eyed morning I found myself wandering around in circles for a good ten minutes trying to find the gym. For this reason alone, it's worth booking several nights - to give yourself time to get the hang of where everything is!
This is not a hotel for those who prefer an intimate, boutique feel - on my visit it was bustling, with a mix of families and couples. Regarding the former, it is an excellent family friendly stay, with activities aplenty to keep little ones occupied. But with adults-only areas, serene landscapes, and a luxurious spa, it’s just as suited to couples.
Naturhotel Forsthofgut has taken the traditional alpine aesthetics and managed to harmoniously blend them with modern, state of the art facilities. The building our room was housed in is every bit the charming alpine postcard, all wooden panelling and overflowing balcony flower pots. The spa, however, with it's minimal, triangular shaped structures, incorporates an almost Scandinavian feel. Whether a more modern or traditional take, all spaces feel cohesively cosy, with just enough design interest to feel curated without detracting from those spectacular views.
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Rooms & Suites
Rooms and suites are sprawled across multiple buildings throughout the complex in picturesque alpine huts. We stayed in a vast suite on the top floor, overlooking the pool with views of the mountains beyond. We entered into the open plan bathroom (with a separate toilet and private shower, never fear), complete with double sinks and a bathtub. My partner Adam loves a soak whenever the opportunity arises - particularly when he discovered he could watch live football on the ample TV whilst relaxing in the (equally ample) tub. Paired with a bundt cake and a cup of tea? Perfect Sunday afternoon if you're a 30-something male, apparently.
The room continues on to a wide bed, plenty of storage place, and seating area complete with sofa, chair, and table (where I sit writing this now, in fact). It's fairly simple design-wise, all blonde wood walls, ceilings, and minimal grey accents. But it doesn't need to make a design statement, because a door leads you out onto the flower lined balcony, where a picture perfect view awaits. The balcony is equipped with more chairs, and a small table - where we promptly tucked into freshly baked bread and a bottle of wine.
Our room was about as well stocked as a hotel room could possibly be - yoga mat, small weights, a rucksack, tote bag and bathrobes, even a universal adaptor. There was simply nothing we needed that wasn't to hand - and I suspect that if you did find yourself missing anything, the staff would soon deliver it.
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Service and Amenities
Where do I even start? There is SO much going on at Naturhotel Forsthofgut, that you could simply never be bored. I don't think I've ever stayed at a hotel with such a comprehensive list of activities that it requires it's own app. But if you're old school, you'll also find a chalkboard in reception listing everything that's going on around the hotel.
As I've mentioned previously, this is a family-friendly stay so many of these activities are geared towards keeping kids occupied. That said, they're just as joyful for us big kids too! We made it a daily routine to wander over to the animals in the grounds, to say hello to the donkeys and llamas. Also on site? Shetland ponies, pigs, and a whole riding stable where you're able to sign up for lessons.
For the active amongst us, there's a well stocked gym. I particularly enjoyed being able to explore different parts of the world on screen during my morning treadmill run - switching between Singapore's marina and Sardinia's azure coastline made it far more entertaining than the usual workout. But beyond that, there's tennis courts, football - or jump in a nearby cable car and hike your way around a mountain.
In Winter, the property becomes a full blown ski resort, and you're able to ski straight in. Personally, my vibe is more apres ski, but having seen the pictures it looks so idyllic even I find myself tempted.
When it comes to service, the hotel is a well oiled machine. Everything is run incredibly smoothly, from the morning newspaper left on your table at breakfast, to our car ready to go with our bags and complimentary bottled water at check out. I’ve reviewed many hotels over the years, and I don’t think I’ve ever been quite so impressed with thorough attention to detail and comprehensive visitor experience.
And yet, despite the size and scale of the operation, it at no point feels impersonal or anything less than warm. One staff member took the time to provide us with a whole host of food recommendations when we decided to explore further afield (shout out for introducing us to Kaiserschmarrn, it was delicious). At such a big property with so many guests and staff, such personal service was a lovely surprise.
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Spa
aNow normally the spa review would be lumped in with "services and amenities", however in this instance the Naturhotel Forsthofgut waldSPA is so ample that it's deserving of it's own section.
The spa manages something that is no mean feet, blending the peace and serenity you’d want in any good spa with the cozy ambience of an Alpine ski chalet. Every room smells impeccable, all woody forestry warmth, fires crackle, and the views out of the many panoramic windows onto a sea of forest green is undeniably atmospheric.
The principal character of the spa is undeniably the sauna - of which, there are multiple. I’ll admit, I don’t entirely understand the current sauna obsession that seems to be sweeping the nation (everyone I know in London suddenly seems to be in to all things sauna, and Adam even has a sauna membership), but I was very willing to give it a try. My pick was the sea sauna (pictured), which looks out over the mountains beyond. Those brave enough even plunge themselves into the icy natural pond afterwards, though I can't say I see the appeal. However, luxuriating in the relaxation rooms afterwards was rather blissful.
A note on sauna etiquette - saunas in Austria are by and large nude, so swimwear isn't allowed. If this isn't your cup of tea, Naturhotel Forsthofgut also has a family sauna area where swimwear is required.
Whilst at Naturhotel Forsthofgut, we also had the opportunity to try out cryotherapy. This involves standing in extreme cold for 3 minutes, and is meant to have all sorts of wonderful health benefits like reducing inflammation and supporting recovery. Now I do not like the cold one bit, but I was intrigued - and I'll try anything once! It's a bit of a surreal experience, with circa-2008 pop hits blasting out in an extremely cold chamber. I found it a struggle but I'm not good with cold, whereas Adam was absolutely fine. As for those health benefits, I can definitely say I felt invigorated afterwards!
Naturhotel Forsthofgut Restaurants and Dining
We stayed on a half board basis, which includes breakfast, a light lunch, and 5 course dinner. There are also three further a la carte restaurants on-site: fine dining at Silva, traditional Austrian at Restaurant 1617, and Japanese at Mizumi. If you fancy a full lunch, you can tuck in at the latter, as well as the restaurant Noon.
Within the main restaurant there are a number of dining spaces, each with its own distinct feel. Ours was “blumenstube”, one of the adults only dining rooms. Dark, oversized florals lined the walls, paired with moody lighting and heavy drapes for a distinctly more grown up feel. Your table is yours for the duration of your stay, which made picking where to sit nice and easy!
The breakfast buffet is a moment of paradise for those who enthuse in breakfasting (I certainly do). There’s the usual hot dishes, your scrambled eggs, bacon, porridge. A salad bar, a cheese bar, a fruit bar. And a whole pantry of breads and pastries. But if that wasn’t enough, there’s also an à la carte menu, with eggs almost every way you could possibly want them, plus daily specials. The focus on health and wellbeing is evident throughout - grab yourself a ginger shot, açai bowl, or order a protein shake.
In the afternoon between 2:30 and 4pm, a light “Küchengruss” is available in the main restaurant, which is a choice of a couple of dishes - on our visit after checking in, hungry from the flight, this was a simple penne with bolognese, and a pumpkin falafel. However I'd recommend booking in for lunch at Mizumi (pictured). This picturesque restaurant sits overlooking the natural pond, with a menu of Japanese staples - think ramens, sushi, and bento boxes. We tried the okonomiyaki (a savoury pancakes), chicken karaage, gyoza, and chef's sushi selection. I was somewhat dubious about getting decent sushi in the Austrian mountains, but my fears were happily proven unfounded.
I thought dinner in the main restaurant would be little more than a buffet, but I was so wrong. There is a buffet component, yes - salads, cheeses, and sweet treats. But the main affair is a multi course tasting menu. In fact, there are not one, but three menus to choose from. The first is alpine themed, drawing on cuisines from across the 7 countries the Alps traverse. The next is focussed on produce sourced within 50km of the hotel. The third is a vegan menu. You’re encouraged to chop and change between menus, and there are extras like steak and schnitzel on offer too. We ate very, very well throughout - the only issue was trying to settle on what to go for!
The Final Word: Naturhotel Forsthofgut Hotel Review
I found myself on several occasions (in suitably awed tones) likening the hotel to Disneyland, were Disneyland a stylish alpine resort in the Austrian mountains. For children, that “Disney magic” is ample – in the endless activity areas, horse riding, petting zoo, parkour and arts. For adults, it is just as plentiful. The oasis that is the waldSPA, an endless maze of relaxation rooms, saunas, pools and yet more areas to recharge. The plethora of dining options, from traditional to fine dining. And, well, those mountain views. Surely just as spectacular as that first Cinderella's Castle sighting.
We found ourselves awed almost consistently by the smoothness of the whole experience - I have reviewed many a hotel in my time, and this felt perhaps the most seamless. This property has been run for several centuries, from a modest farm housing forestry workers, to the vast operation it has become. Safe to say, they know good hospitality.
The word that kept cropping up during our stay was "family", and it feels apt on many levels. The hotel is family run, and has been for generations. We even attended a weekly aperitivo hour in the bar to meet the family themselves - a lovely touch that makes such a vast property feel far more personal. Almost all the guests we spoke to during our stay were on repeat visits, or came every year.
After a couple of days, we certainly felt like part of the Naturhotel Forsthofgut family. And you know what, it's definitely not a bad family to be a part of. See you again next year?
