A city so romanticised it seems like the stuff of fairytales, it’s easy to see the appeal of a city as beautiful as Venice. It might be hard to believe that it could live up to the hype, but it does: sunsets from the Rialto, gondola rides along the Grand Canal, the awe-inspiring magnificence of Saint Marks. But its many charms come at a high price, literally. Food is often extortionate and mediocre, and gondola prices are eye-watering. In Summer the tiny streets are rammed with socks and sandal tourists, and of course there are the floods putting the very existence of the city at risk.
However if you want your full share of charm without the drawbacks, it’s easily doable. Get lost in quiet neighbourhoods where a glass of wine and a selection of cicchetti (Italian tapas, see "Cicchetti Bars in Venice") will set you back just a few euros, and tourists are few and far between.
I’ve been to Venice a fair few times now so decided to put some of my personal highlights in a little guide. If you’re looking for sights, this is probably not the guide for you. Though there are many grand museums, art galleries and religious monuments, the city is at its most magical getting lost in the backstreets, discovering quaint squares where locals gather, hidden canals without a camera-toting tourist in sight, and cosy neighbourhood bars for an afternoon aperitivo.
Before You Travel
Money: The currency used in Italy is the € Euro. Most places except card, but it's worth having cash on you too for smaller purchases. Venice is quite expensive compared to other parts of the country as it's so touristy - expect mains to be priced at €20 upwards at average restaurants, though cheaper places can be found outside of San Marco.
Language: Italian, of course, however many locals speak English particularly if they work in tourist-facing roles.
When to visit: Summer months are peak tourist season so it can get very busy during these months, as well as high temperatures. Winter months are quietest however Venice is known to flood from October to March. I'd recommend going in Spring or Autumn for a quieter experience and less extreme weather.
What to Wear: Italy isn't a conservative country so you can really wear whatever you want, except in some churches! You'll most likely be doing a lot of walking so comfortable shoes are a must, and a light jacket for cooler evenings.
Things to Do in Venice
St Mark's Square
St Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco in Italian) is the main public square in Venice (and the only Piazza in the city), and a major tourist hub. It's the location of the grand St Mark's Basilica (pictured), St Mark's Campanile, the Doge's Palace and the famous Cafe Florian (which I've never been to because the prices are eye-watering, but it's beautiful!). It's an amazing space for a wander round to take in the atmosphere and the awe-inspiring Venetian architecture, however it's very touristy, and I wouldn't recommend spending money in the Piazza as most places are very overpriced and marketed solely to tourists.
The Rialto Bridge
Another iconic Venice location, the Rialto Bridge is one of the city's most famous sights. The oldest bridge spanning the Grand Canal, it's a major hub in the city and is always crawling with tourists. It's lined with small shops, however these were shut during my visit (shoutout to COVID for that). It's worth arriving early to enjoy the views in relative solitude, however it's also a beautiful spot to watch the sunset over Venice. In terms of getting that gram shot, there are several viewpoints from beside the canal looking back on the bridge, although they can get busy with photographers vying for a snap!
The Bridge of Sighs
Another famous Venice bridge, The Bridge of Sighs is legendary not just for its unique architecture but equally for its history and romantic legacy. Connecting the prison to the Doge's Palace, it was built to take prisoners from their cells to the interrogation rooms in the Palace. Legend has it that the name came from prisoners sighing as they caught their last glimpse of Venice from the bridge before execution, though this is likely inaccurate. It's also known as a romantic symbol, and supposedly if you kiss under it at sunset, your love will last forever. Seems legit, right? Nowadays though it's mainly besieged by tourists snapping away from parallel Ponte della Paglia. For an unobstructed shot head for this spot (right) under the bridge which offers a great view of the Bridge of Sighs sans tourists.
Explore the Neighbourhoods
Though we stayed in San Marco to be centrally located, most of our time was spent outside of the area in some of the quieter and less touristy neighbourhoods. Venice is very walkable, and from San Marco most of the different areas of the city are only a short stroll away. It's a great city to wander and explore, especially as there are always signs back to the main tourist sights if you get too lost.
My favourite neighbourhood to explore is Dorsoduro in the West, which has good restaurants and bars, a relatively buzzy nightlife, and a young vibe thanks to the nearby University. Head to Rio de S.Trovaso or Campo San Barnaba at night for cicchetti bars and atmosphere. Cannaregio in the north is more touristy but also host to a great selection of restaurants and bars, particularly along Rio della Misericordia. San Polo may seem central but is surprisingly quiet and residential as you get further away from the Rialto - expect narrow backstreets, local businesses, and quiet squares to discover. I don't know Castello in the East so well, other than it being the location of the famous Biennalle, but I'm sure it's got just as many gems to unearth!
Libreria Aqua Alta
Possibly one of the world's most famous and aesthetic bookshops, the Libreria Aqua Alta is an eclectic bookshop which has found unique ways to store their collection due to Venice's seasonal flooding. There's plenty of photo ops, including the book staircase affording views over the canal, a boat filled with more books, and the many cats that call the store home. It gets very busy, so go early if you want to enjoy it in peace!
Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Bovolo (meaning snail in Italian) perfectly describes the eye-catching spiral staircase that makes the Scala Contarini del Bovolo worth visiting. A small palazzo hosting an exhibition space, the main draw is the views of Venice rooftops from the top of the stairs, which you can see by booking tickets in advance online (at time of writing limited groups are admitted due to COVID regulations). There's no canals in sight making it rather unusual for a Venice view, but it's nonetheless pretty impressive and well worth the climb.
Visit Burano
Fisherman's village turned Instagram paradise, Burano is the sight of many a colourful #wanderlust snap. It's a must-visit for any budding travel blogger or Instagrammer, but even if you're not looking to get that iconic travel gram it's a lovely little Island to explore just 45 minutes via waterbus from Venice. Legend has it that the colourful houses that make the Island so visually appealing were painted as such so the fisherman could spot their houses from afar.
In terms of photo ops, you're spoiled for choice. There's 3 main canals all of which offer pleasant views lined with brightly-hued homes, and within the streets off the canals you'll find plenty of equally photogenic spots. The Island relies on tourism so no one seemed to be perturbed by our snapping, but do keep in mind these are people's residences and be respectful of their space.
It's a pretty small place so you can easily roam the canals and backstreets in an hour or two, however there are also a handful of restaurants and shops if you want to make more of a day of it. I wanted to eat at Trattoria al Gatto Nero, a lauded family eatery known for fresh local cuisine, however it was fully booked so don't make my mistake and book in advance (and come back here and tell me what it was like!).
The boat costs €15 return from Fondamente Nove stop A in Cannaregio, and also stops off at Murano, another Island known for it's glass blowing industry. Though less 'aesthetic' it's equally worthy of a wander round if you have the time.
Restaurants in Venice
Ca D'Oro Alla Vedova
A Bacaro (standing bar) meets traditional trattoria, Alla Vedova is a Venice institution known for it's cicchetti, but also serves up bowls of pasta and seafood at decent prices. At the lower end of Canareggio tucked away in a quiet street, it's easy enough to miss and doesn't look like much, but that's part of its charm. With rustic touches like metal pots and pans hanging from the ceiling, and walls lined with mismatched artwork, it had a distinctly local, old-school vibe.
The menu is typically Venetian, with a signature dish of Polpetta (large meatballs served dry) at €2 apiece, and definitely worth trying. We also went for the pesto pasta and bucatini with bacon, onions, tomato and pecorino. Simple dishes, but done well, they were €12 each and left us feeling full and satisfied. It's not the place for mind-blowing, avant-garde creations, but for warming, traditional dishes at a good price it fits the bill. Oh, and the wine is great too!
When we visited it was fairly quiet, however a quick search has informed me that it's usually pretty popular and reservations are generally recommended, so if you're visiting during a peak time it might be worth booking in advance. Otherwise you can always grab a glass of wine and snack on cicchetti at the bar!
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia
One afternoon we found ourselves craving pizza, big time. Venice is more known for its seafood, and decent pizza is surprisingly hard to find, as I discovered desperately searching through Google and TripAdvisor for recommendations. Eventually I stumbled upon Ristorante Antica Sacrestia, which looked affordable and had an extensive pizza menu. We turned up to find ourselves seated in a quiet courtyard in a San Marco backyard, centrally located yet well away from the crowds of the tourist hubs. The pizzas ranged from €12-16.50 for the "special" pizzas, and there was a huge selection, as well as plenty of pasta, traditional local fare, and a well priced set daily menu for €26 including service and cover.
I went straight for the truffle pizza with "petto d'oca" (a quick google has just informed me that this was goose breast!). The goose breast was served thinly sliced with a healthy slathering of truffle oil, and it was delicious (I mean, it's truffle, of course it was). My dad ordered a vegetarian option with three mushroom types, which also got promptly polished off. It's a pretty good rule of thumb that there's no such thing as a bad pizza, especially in Italy, and this was no exception, and fulfilled a serious craving.
What really made Antica Sacrestia worthy of a spot in this guide though, was the service. All the staff were so friendly and attentive without encroaching, in particular our main waiter who took great pleasure in my Dad attempting his patchy Italian, and served us a complimentary sgroppino, a Venetian palate cleanser of lemon sorbet and vodka (it's delicous!).
If you're looking for a spot in San Marco away from the hustle and bustle that isn't heaving with tourists (most of the other diners were Italian when we visited), won't break the bank, and serves up a wide range of Italian options, Antica Sacrestia is definitely a solid option.
Al Vecio Marangon
So last time I was in Venice three years ago for my birthday, we got lost in the backstreets of Dorsoduro and found a cosy, bustling restaurant with a lively atmosphere serving up amazing traditional dishes. It was such a memorable experience, and went down as one of my best birthdays to date (thanks also in part to the half an hour walk back to the hotel that evening in deep floodwater which we were totally unprepared for!). I was determined to track the restaurant down on this trip, which involved hours of frantic googling and streetviews on Maps as we annoyingly hadn't bothered to take down the name. I was pretty much ready to give up when I stumbled upon Al Vecio Marangon, which fit the bill as a local, backstreet spot serving up homey traditional dishes.
Our first night on this trip it was top of my bucketlist, however when I got there it didn't look familiar AT ALL. Nonetheless our stomachs were rumbling after hours of travelling so we decided to give it a go nonetheless. We sat outside in an atmospheric courtyard of sorts, and ordered up a couple of pasta dishes. I went for the seabass and mushroom ravioli, a surprising but tasty combination served in a form I've never seen ravioli come in in the UK.
It wasn't as mind-blowing as my last encounter, and to be honest, I have no idea if it was in fact the same restaurant, but nonetheless it has a cosy, undiscovered vibe that makes it worth a visit. Prices are reasonable, service is friendly, and it's a lovely romantic spot for classic Venetian cuisine.
Cicchetti Bars in Venice
Honestly this could have gone in restaurants or bars but I decided to give it it's own section, because Cicchetti bars are one of my favourite things to do in Venice. A local form of tapas, cicchetti are bitesize dishes usually costing €1-2 served at casual Bacaros. Most predominantly these consist of bread topped with a variety of toppings such a meat, pates and seafoods. They're best enjoyed canal-side on a warm day with a large spritz (€2.50!) or glass of wine, watching the world go by.
One of the best spots to enjoy cicchetti in Venice is along the Rio de San Trovaso canal (pictured) in Dorsoduro, home to Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. A wine bar heaving with floor to ceiling bottles, they serve up a variety of cicchetti, plus, unsurprisingly, plenty of wine. Just a few yards further down the canal you'll also find Osteria Al Squero, a no frills cheap and cheerful cicchetti bar that serves up just as plentiful a selection, and €2.50 prosecco. On balmy evenings both venues are bustling with tourists and locals alike - if you can't find a seat inside, pull up a pew by the canal alongside the students from the nearby University.
Bars in Venice
The Gritti Palace Terrace
On our last night we headed to luxury hotel The Gritti Palace for a drink and a sunset view at their Riva Lounge. A truly decadent experience, the Terrace backs on to the Grand Canal opposite the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute offering spectacular views over the city's main thoroughfare.
The cocktail menu is extensive, with whole sections dedicated to Martinis and sparkling options. There's all the classics, and plenty of unique options exclusive to the hotel, so you'll be hard-pressed not to find something appealing - the only problem is trying to pick just one! It's definitely on the pricier side with cocktails coming in at €20+, but you're also paying for the view which is more than worth it. We started things off with their signature Bellini, sweet but not overpowering, and some nibbles, watching as the sky turned pink over a Venetian tapestry of gondoliers, watertaxis, and the occasional curious pigeon.
Il Mercante
Despite having a student population Venice is not particularly known for it's nightlife, and bars, barring Bacaros, are few and far between. However I was determined to find cocktails beyond Aperol Spritz, and so we found ourselves weaving through the backstreets of Dorsoduro and Santa Croce to Il Mercante, by all accounts one of Venice's only cocktail bars.
Elegantly decorated with vintage touches akin to a smoking room at a Gentleman's club (the fancy members type, not the racy sort), Il Mercante has all the hallmarks of a speakeasy style cocktail bar. Head upstairs for plush leather sofas, an assortment of artfully arranged nick nacks, and a dramatic hanging ceiling installation, to sup cocktails with an accompaniment of nostalgic music.
The cocktail menu is for lack of a better word, bizarre, but in a good way. Ingredients like celery, artichokes, and olive leaves are listed as the key components of drinks, with alcohol in small letters below as if as an afterthought. Designed almost like a dinner menu (though paired with the hashtag #thisisnotarestaurant), these drinks are accompanied by small bitesize morsels. These aren't your usual snacks, but rather foams, gels, and jellies, that are there more for flavour than sustenance.
If the concept is a bit too pretentious for your tastes, they do also have a range of standard cocktails available, but where's the fun in that?
If you've been to Venice, let me know which of these you've done, and what else you'd recommend! Despite being such a small place there's just so much to see and do, I'm already plotting my return... Also make sure to follow me on Instagram for lots more Venice content!
