The Albanian capital, Tirana, is a fascinating juxtaposition. Soviet-era architecture sits alongside brightly hued buildings in a youthful, metropolitan city with a complex Communist past. Whilst more rural parts of Albania have become popular tourist destinations in recent years, Tirana has retained a distinctly local scene. Admittedly, it doesn't have many major draws in terms of sights. However what it lacks in sightseeing, it makes up for in buzzing neighbourhoods, achingly cool restaurants, and a lively bar scene.
I spent two nights exploring the city on my way to Skopje, where I was due to watch the England men's football team play North Macedonia. Of course, I was determined to experience as much of the city as possible, which I've decanted into this Tirana travel guide. Read on for some of the best things to do in Tirana, including the sights, restaurants, bars, and all my top tips to get the most out of your Tirana experience.
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Tirana Travel Guide
When to Visit Tirana: Tirana is at its best in late Spring and early Autumn, when the temperatures are warm enough for comfortably exploring.
How to get to Tirana: Direct flights are available from London to Tirana via Wizz Air and Ryanair. It's also connected via local buses to many other Balkan cities.
Getting Around Tirana: The centre of Tirana is fairly compact, so it's a great city to explore via foot. Uber isn't available in the city; however you can use alternatives such as Speed Taxi App.
Money in Albania: Albania's currency in Albanian Lek. It's a closed currency, which means you can only acquire it within the country. There are many ATMs available within the airport, so it's easy enough to take some out on arrival.
Using your phone in Tirana: Most likely you'll be hit with high data charges if you use your foreign sim in Albania. I bought a Vodaphone sim at the airport, which was ideal as it also worked across North Macedonia and Kosovo.
What to Pack for Tirana: As you'll probably be doing a lot of walking, comfortable shoes are a must. I'd also recommend layers for the colder evenings.
Things to do in Tirana
Bunk'Art
One of the most popular things to do in Tirana is Bunk'Art 1 and 2, two underground bunkers built under Enver Hoxha's dictatorship to protect the government from the threat of nuclear war. The bunkers have since been converted into museums that are open to the public.
Bunk'Art 1 is on the outskirts of town, and features the living quarters and meeting rooms staged as they would have been, whilst telling the history of the era. I didn't actually make it due to it being that bit farther out of town, however it sounds like an interesting insight into Albania under communist rule.
Bunk'Art 2 is the more frequented, due to it's position in the centre of town. It focuses on the role of the secret police in the Communist years. It's fairly information dense, and disturbing at times. But it is a fascinating look into what was one of the most secretive dictatorships in the world.
The bunker itself is eerie, a maze of long, dark corridors lined with information boards. Honestly, it can be a bit of a text overload, and could do with a facelift to make it more engaging, but for those who are interested in learning more about Albania's history, it's a must.
Enver Hoxha's Residence
It's hard to visit Tirana and not encounter the shadows of its Communist past, deeply entrenched within the stories of the city. The tales of Enver Hoxha, the infamous and brutal dictator who ruled over Albania during these years, are particularly prevalent. As such, his former residence, situated in the fashionable Blloku neighbourhood, has become a major stopover on the Tirana sightseeing trail. Though it's not open to the public, you can view the house from the outside. A somewhat ghostly sight, shuttered and barren, but worth a pause in between Blloku bar crawling. It's expected to become a museum or public space at some point in the future, so keep your eyes peeled.
Et'hem Bey Mosque
Located just off Skanderbeg Square, Et'hem Bey Mosque is a distinctive example of Ottoman architecture in the city, with interior rooms featuring intricate frescoes and decorative elements. Completed in the early 19th century, the mosque is named after Et'hem Bey, who was the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire during that period.
During the Communist era in Albania, religious practices were restricted, and the mosque was closed for public worship. It was reopened in 1991 following the end of Communist rule, and is now open as a place of worship as well as for general visitors and tourists. It's fairly small, but still well worth a wander inside to experience the beautiful architectural details. There's no entry fee, but donations are encouraged, and shoes have to be removed.
Skanderbeg Square
The beating heart of Tirana is its main square. Named after the national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, many of the city's most important buildings and monuments flank its side, including Et'hem Bey Mosque, the Palace of Culture, and the National Museum of History.
It's where the city converges for festivals, cultural exhibits, and to just generally watch the world go by. When exploring Tirana you'll probably find yourself wandering through the square many times over, it's pretty hard to miss!
Reja - The Cloud Installation
Reja, commonly referred to as "The Cloud", is an art installation and public space by architect Sou Fujimoto. A network of white steel rods form a cloud like structure, providing an immersive experience as visitors walk through and underneath the structure. Situated in the city's main park, it's hard to miss, and free to visit. It also serves as a multifunctional space, hosting cultural events, exhibitions, and public gatherings.
Pyramid of Tirana
Tirana's most iconic sight, somewhat incomprehensibly, is a giant pyramid, smack bang in the centre of the city. Built in 1988, the structure has had many lives. It initially opened as a museum dedicated to Enver Hoxha, but has also operated as a radio station, nightclub, and a base for NATO during the Kosovo War. After much discussion concerning it's future purpose in recent years, the pyramid is now a cultural hub, home to studios, workshops, and festivals.
Whilst the pyramid itself isn't the most attractive, it's a popular way to see the sights of the city. Free-to-access steps on the facade of the structure transport visitors to rooftop views. It's a bit of a hike, so wear comfortable shoes. There's also lift access for those who'd rather skip the climb!
Restaurants in Tirana
Çoko Bistro Bar
I'm not generally much of a breakfast person at home. More often than not, I'll opt for black coffee and a banana, granola at a stretch. But when I'm travelling, I love to load up on the fanciest breakfasts I can find. Give me eggs, give me avo, give me bacon to fuel me for a long day of exploring.
Luckily, Tirana has no shortage of decent breakfast spots. I found myself at the trendy Coko bistro bar, a vast restaurant in Blokku with an aesthetic covered terrace space (pictured), and quirky interiors. With an extensive breakfast menu, it was the perfect place to start the day. I tucked into eggs benedict, but other options include English or Albanian breakfasts, french toast and pancakes. All the essentials, and completely delicious. It's a great all day spot, as they also serve snacks, appetisers, mains and cocktails later on.
Noor Cafe
I'll admit, I'm a sucker for an aesthetic cafe. I mean, if you're on my blog, you probably already knew that, right? So it was somewhat inevitable that I'd find my way to the oh so picturesque Noor Coffee and Fine Food Cafe. A cosy spot with industrial interiors and a colourful outdoor terrace, it's the ideal place to rest your feet for a well deserved coffee break after a morning of touristing. If you're looking for something more substantial, they also do food.
Oda Restaurant
Whilst there's plenty of uber-modern, cosmopolitan restaurants dotted around Tirana, you'd be amiss not to try traditional fare whilst in the city. One of the most popular restaurants for classic Albanian cuisine is Oda Restaurant. They have two venues, Oda and Oda Garden, the latter of which I visited.
The space itself is beautiful, with the large namesake garden of homespun wooden seating canopied with lemon trees and liberally draped with festoons. There's also an indoor restaurant, with similarly rustic decor. Fair warning, if you choose to eat outside expect to be pleaded with by cats for scraps! In the evenings there's live music, which unfortunately I didn't get the opportunity to experience. Next time!
The menu is hearty, with options like livers and intestines for the more adventurous, alongside a general vegetarian section. Portions are healthy - it's a great place for ordering a selection of dishes to share with friends. The food itself is simple, no frills servings. My beef kofta and spinach pie was tasty enough though by no means exemplary, but it was nice to experience traditional dishes nonetheless.
Salt
There was one restaurant that I kept stumbling across when researching for my Tirana trip, and that was Salt. An Asian sushi restaurant in, yep, you guessed it, Blloku, Salt was seemingly the place for an indulgent fine dining experience in the city. I'm not generally one for fine dining when travelling (gotta save those pennies!), however my interest was piqued.
Interiors-wise, it definitely lives up to the hype. It's the kind of restaurant that wouldn't look out of place in the hippest neighbourhoods of New York or London. A dramatic wall of alcohol bottles frames the bar, whilst canopies of foliage surround chic teal booths. The prices are definitely steep, but as someone who's used to eye-watering London prices, not extortionate.
Salt's menu is ample, ranging from raw plates such as ceviche, a range of sushi, and larger dishes such as steak and pasta. I tucked into tuna crispy rice, mushroom croquettes, truffle beef gyoza, and goat cheese crostini. Nothing was breaking boundaries, but everything was beautifully presented and well cooked.
Bars in Tirana
Radio Bar
What Tirana lacks in sights, it makes up for in a lively nightlife and bar scene, particularly concentrated within the Blloku neighbourhood. If there's one bar in Tirana that's a must do, it's Radio Bar. Movie posters line the walls, interspersed with an expansive collection of retro radios overlooking multicoloured chairs that wouldn't look out of place in a children's nursery. It also houses an atmospheric outdoor terrace tucked away from the road.
The cocktail menu is substantial, featuring a mix of classic drinks and signature concoctions. The drinks have a kick to them - on an empty stomach fresh off a flight I was definitely feeling my passionfruit mojito! We visited at 2pm which was unsurprisingly fairly quiet, but I can imagine the place heaves during peak hours.
Komiteti-Kafe Muzeum
Part cafe, part bar, part museum, Komiteti-Kafe Muzeum kind of does it all. The interiors are truly like walking into an immersive museum, housing a treasure trove of memorabilia showcasing Communist-era Albania. It's a completely unique experience, making it a worthy addition to your Tirana itinerary. The menu is a mix of soft and alcoholic drinks, including a comprehensive selection of Raki. There's also a colourful, eclectic outdoor courtyard for balmy days.
Colonial Cocktail Academy
An OG on the Blloku cocktail bar scene is Colonial Cocktails Academy Tirana. It's conveniently situated next to Salt restaurant, making it ideal for a post dinner tipple. As such we stopped by for a quick drink after our meal, lured in by the picturesque outdoor terrace.
The bar's theme instantly makes itself clear on entering. Buddhist and Asian memorabilia such as Buddha busts and sculptures line the walls. Personally I found it a wee bit dated, more "third rate Thai restaurant" than cutting edge cocktail bar, but that might just be my own design preferences!
The drinks themselves pack a punch. My Margarita Calabrese (flavoured with mango) had a strong kick of spice, and a touch of a grenadine, chemical taste. It wasn't my best cocktail in Tirana by any means, but if you're in the area and looking for a fun bar, Colonial Cocktails hits the spot.
Nouvelle Vague
I stumbled upon cosy cocktail bar Nouvelle Vague one night on a wander through Blloku. Inspired, presumably, by the French New Wave, it's a quirky spot with a mix of music and film memorabilia framing lego-esque colour pops. Alfresco seating is practically obligatory in Tirana, and Nouvelle Vague obliges with a small outdoor terrace.
The cocktail menu was one of the more interesting I discovered on my trip, with sophisticated mixes and unique ingredients. The presentation is fairly no frills but the concoctions are complex. My cocktail contained apple, paprika, vanilla, and bacon flavours, which sounds dubious but tasted great. They also had cocktails featuring ingredients as unusual as turkish coffee, sumac, and apple biscuit.
On my visit in the early evening things were still quiet (I don't have the stamina for the late nights of Balkan Europe!). However with playful decor, a lively playlist of latin vibes, and great drinks, I can imagine it's the place to be on a buzzing late night in Tirana.
More Tirana Dining and Drinking
There were a few restaurants, cafes and bars I'd earmarked but didn't manage to make it to on this trip. I thought I'd pop them in anyway, in case you've exhausted the above, or haven't quite seen what you're looking for yet. Do let me know if you make it to any of these, and what you thought!
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Artigiano at Vila: A cosy Italian trattoria with an expansive outdoor garden. I'd just gotten back from Italy so wasn't fancying more pizza and pasta, but it looks lovely!
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Arka Rooftop: Unfortunately Tirana's best rooftop bars are outside the centre of town, and I didn't get a chance to check them out. Arka is a glamorous sushi restaurant and bar with impressive city views. If you're into sky high dining and getting dolled up for the occasion, this is the place for it!
- Kapelet Rooftop: If there's one restaurant I wish I'd made it to, it's Kapelet. Another out of town rooftop, with beautiful nature-inspired decor that looks like something out of Bali or Tulum. The views are equally striking, particularly at golden hour.
- Miro: Tirana's endless supply of cute cafes would have had me bouncing off the walls if I'd attempted to stop by for a coffee at them all, so sadly Miro just missed the cut. An aesthetic spot for drinks and food, the walls are covered in murals inspired by the work of, you guessed it, Miro.
- Hemingway: A lively, atmospheric Cuban bar for live music and cocktails. Unfortunately it was closed the day I planned to visit, but it definitely sounds worth a visit for a buzzy Tirana night.
Do let me know if this Tirana travel guide has been helpful, and if you have any more tips for things to do in Tirana, please pop them in the comments! Let me know if you'd like to see more guides, or if there are any destinations you'd be interested in seeing featured. And most of all, enjoy Tirana!
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I have not yet visited Albania but Tirana certainly seems a destination that has plenty of reasons to change that.
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I think most people go as a stopover on their way to the coastal regions, but it’s definitely worth a day or two!