New York, New York, so good they named it twice. It's hard to know where to start with a city as big, both literally and figuratively, as New York City. From countless things to see and do, not to mention world-class dining, bars, and entertainment, you're truly spoiled for choice.
For this very reason, it's the kind of city that can be quite overwhelming to visit. You can't possibly do everything. Heck, you could easily spend months, even years, exploring all New York has to offer without scratching the surface. I had just under a week, so this New York travel guide is far from exhaustive, but hopefully it will provide you with a solid starting point for your Big Apple adventures.
The wonderful thing about big cities is that you can tailor them to yourself. There's something for everyone, to cater to every interest. As such, this guide is a fairly personal one. If you want to know all about the big ticket sights, read a guide book. If you want to discover sky high views, speakeasies, and some of the best (and most aesthetic!) restaurants, stick around.
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New York 101
Getting Around: The New York subway is far from pleasant, but it does the trick. You can get a 7 day Metrocard for unlimited use on buses and the subway. Alternatively you can use your contactless card with OMNY, which is New York's contactless system. Uber is also reliable in New York if you don't fancy the weird smells and confusing signage of the subway (I don't blame you!). New York is also a great city to walk, although everything is very spread out so expect to get those steps in.
Money: Currency in New York is the US Dollar ($). Pretty much everywhere takes card, but I'd recommend carrying a small amount of cash with you just in case. Be prepared for tax added on top of the prices you see in shops and restaurants. Tipping culture is strong in the US, with servers expecting tips within the 18-25% range, so be prepared for meals to cost a heck of a lot more than you'd expect.
Safety: Like every major city, New York is safe enough if you're savvy. Keep your valuables safe and out of sight, especially on public transport and at night, and avoid quieter areas if you're travelling solo.
Weather: New York has quite extreme weather, at least coming from London! Winter is absolutely freezing cold, whereas Summer can be stifling hot and humid. To avoid these extremes, visiting in Spring and Autumn are your best bet.
What to Pack: You can wear what you want in New York! I'd recommend comfortable clothes and flat shoes for getting around the city on foot. Don't forget to pack an American adaptor too!
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New York Top 5
01. Take a walk through Central Park
It's classically New York, completely free, and great to explore all year round.
02. See the City Sights from an Observatory
I visited The Edge, Empire State Building, and Top of The Rock, which all offered a unique experience.
03. Visit a Museum
New York boasts several world class museums, including The Guggenheim, MoMa (Museum of Modern Art), and The Met.
04. Explore Brooklyn
New York's hippest borough is a must visit, from vintage shopping and flea markets to some of the city's best dining and bars.
05. Eat Classic New York Food
Grab a slice at Joe's, cookies at Levain Bakery, and bagels, well, pretty much everywhere.
Things To Do in New York
Central Park
New York's most famous green stretch, Central Park isn't just *any* park. It's the epicentre of Manhattan, a place as iconically New York as the Empire State Building or the Statue of Liberty. The sprawling urban park is lovely all year round for a stroll to get away from the bustle of the streets. That said, it is particularly picturesque in Spring, when it's awash with pink blooms.
The park is best explored at whim, however some highlights include Bethesda Terrace, Belvedere Castle, and Bow Bridge.
During cherry blossom season, head to Cherry Hill, and the West and Eastern sides of the reservoir for the best bloom sightings. This picture was shot on the Western side near W 86th St in late April. Peak bloom varies from year to year depending on the weather. Keep an eye on the Central Park website and social media for updates.
In terms of activities, there's walking tours, boating, sports pitches, and even horse riding (my allergies could never!). My pick however, is to grab a bestie for a Sex And The City inspired grumble about your love life as you pretend to power walk. If it's good enough for Carrie et al...
Take a Boat Tour
I love how so many of New York's top sights are literally just "here's another way to see the city in all it's sparkly splendor". So much so that I have a whole section dedicated to the city's observatories, but let's not get ahead of ourselves. If you're looking for a different vantage point to take in the concrete jungle in its glory, I'd recommend booking a boat tour.
I booked a Circle Line "Harbour Lights" tour through CityPass. However there are a number of different tours and operators to choose from. The tour starts from Hudson Yards, commencing at golden hour and circling the city as the sun sets and the skyline lights up by night. We saw plenty of the main sights, including the skyscrapers of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty. Unfortunately the weather was a bit stormy so there wasn't much of a sunset. On a clear day I imagine it's fairly spectacular.
The tour includes a guide who talks through the history and gives context to the sights en route. It was actually very interesting, although I often struggled to hear over the general buzz of people. There's basic food and beverages (both alcoholic and soft) available on board. Don't expect the best meal of your life - honestly you're better off eating before or after to make the most of New York's incredible food scene!
Walk The High Line
New York isn't exactly known for it's abundance of greenery, but an answer to this problem has developed in the form of The High Line. It's a free elevated walkway from Hudson Yards down into Chelsea. It's lined with foliage and artworks, and offers a unique vista down classic New York Streets. The High Line is open from 7am to 10pm, however it gets very crowded so I'd recommend going early or late. I walked it in the middle of the day and honestly found it so busy it took away from enjoying the experience. That said, if you're looking for free things to do in New York, it's a must.
Guggenheim Museum
New York is home to a number of world class museums. Hence, if you consider yourself an art or history buff, you're in the right place. Personally, at risk of sounding totally uncultured, I'm not much of a museum enthusiast myself. However it felt like sacrilege to visit New York and not set foot inside a single museum! Particularly as so many of them were included in my CityPass.
I ended up choosing to visit The Guggenheim, largely because it's a museum I'd never visited before. It's also one of the city's most iconic, famed for its unique spiral interior structure. At time of visiting it hosted one major exhibition which lined the walls of the main walkway, as well as a few smaller exhibits throughout. Honestly, the major exhibition on when I visited wasn't particularly to my taste, but art aside it's an interesting building to explore!
New York Observatories
Rockefeller Center
The Top of the Rock observation deck is one of New York's most popular sights, and with good reason. Spread out over three floors, it showcases epic central views sweeping over the city. Something that sets it apart is the prime view out to the Empire State Building (pictured). I'm personally a fan because it's one of the most photogenic observatories, with plenty of photo opportunities (if you can beat the crowds, that is!). The top deck is the best for photos as it's completely open air (something I didn't realise until I'd already shot my pictures on the deck below, d'oh). It's open from 9am till midnight, and tickets start at $34. Otherwise it's also an available attraction with CityPass.
Empire State Building
There may be higher and fancier observatories in New York, but the Empire State Building is a classic. With it's central location and 360 degree views it offers an incredible vantage point over New York. That said, when I visited it was cloudy, and we couldn't see much! However, it's more than just a view. The building itself is such a New York City icon, and the Art Deco interiors are well worth seeing. Exhibitions throughout the space detail its history, from construction in the 1920s, to its legacy within pop culture in the modern age.
There are two decks to explore, on the 86th and 102nd floors. The former is the main open air deck, whilst the latter offers unobstructed floor to ceiling views from an indoor space. Tickets to the 102nd also include the 86th if you want to see as much as possible. Just learn from my mistakes and book for a sunny day!
I booked my tickets for the Empire State Building and many other attractions using CityPass. It covers most of the main sights including observatories, museums, and boat tours, with opportunities to save money on multiple tickets.
Head to shiny new neighbourhood Hudson Yards in West Manhattan and you'll find Edge, the highest outdoor deck in the Western Hemisphere. It's far from your traditional observatory, comprised of a triangular deck jutting out over the city with views of Manhattan and across the Hudson towards Newark.
Edge is probably one of the most show-stopping of New York's observatories thanks to it's sheer height and unique design. It's unsurprisingly also incredibly popular. I got there just before opening to find huge queues already formed, which makes it quite challenging if you're looking to take photos. They do occasional sunrise openings, which I reckon would be well worth doing!
For the adventurous, there's also "City Climb", allowing you to climb the side of the building for an exclusive vantage point at the very top. General admission starts at $36, with City Climb starting from $186.
Top Tip: Combine your visit to Edge with a walk across The Highline nearby
Explore Brooklyn
Brooklyn Bridge
New York has a fair few iconic monuments. There's the Statue of Liberty, of course (which always strikes me a surprisingly diminutive when I see it in real life, but that's neither here nor there...). Times Square, if you can face the crowds and general tackiness. The Empire State Building, and the Rockefeller Center for the views.
And then there's my personal favourite, Brooklyn Bridge. For many reasons, but mainly, in a very expensive city, it's free. Connecting Downtown Brooklyn and Lower Manhattan, it's also a great way to see the city, affording views across both boroughs. Then there's the bridge itself, which is architecturally striking. If you can handle the early wake up, I'd recommend going at sunrise, when the strapping steel structure is softened by a warm orange glow. Plus, bar the occasional jogger, you'll have it largely to yourself.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden
When the hustle and bustle of the streets get a bit much, never fear. Brooklyn Botanic Garden is an oasis of calm away from the intensity of the city, and it's well worth a visit. The sprawling 52 acre space is home to over 12,000 plant forms, including special collections of roses, cacti, and orchids. It's at its very best however, at the end of April, when Cherry Blossom Esplanade bursts into bloom and turns the gardens pink. Unfortunately I managed to time my visit pretty poorly and got entirely soaked so I didn't see much else past the blooms, but the bits I did see were beautiful! You can buy timed tickets in advance or at one of the entrance gates, with standard adult tickets priced at $18 at time of writing.
Vintage Shopping in Brooklyn
I actually didn't do much shopping on this trip, partially due to a particularly unfavourable exchange rate (ugh). However, I did do a fair bit of window shopping around the streets of Dumbo and Williamsburg, which are host to a plethora of great vintage shops. I'd recommend roaming the streets and discovering them at your leisure, but as a starting point try L Train Vintage, Awoke Vintage (pictured), and Beacon's Closet. On weekends, you'll find Brooklyn Flea in Dumbo around Pearl Street Triangle and The Dumbo Archway.
Domino Park
Central Park may be New York's signature green space, but Brooklyn has a few parks of its own worth visiting. Domino Park is one such, a narrow 5 acre green stretch in a prime location on the Williamsburg waterfront. Sitting in the shadow of the old Domino Sugar Factory, it's got a fairly industrial feel to it. This is a park for hanging out with friends, enjoying activities, and watching the sun set over Manhattan, rather than escaping to nature. Speaking of activities, there's plenty here, with a children's playground, dog run, volleyball court and playing field. When I visited it played host to a dog adoption run, which as a dog lover was extremely exciting to happen across. Sadly, I left empty handed, but I did get to pet a few good doggos....
Restaurants in New York
Mono + Mono
On paper, East Village spot Mono + Mono sounds like a bit of an ideas clash. South Korean food served in a record filled space with a flower shop in the front? Well, whoever came up with that combo, fair play. The restaurant itself is beautiful, furnished in deep, dark woods with jars of fermented foods and the aforementioned records lining the walls. Fresh cuts of flowers are dotted throughout, and alcoves display flickering candles. It would be an ideal date night spot, but it seems to go down just as well with the Instagram crowd (guilty). A mix of jazz and pleasant, house-esque (my musical genre knowledge is patchy) remixes are an ideal soundtrack to reinforce the romantic mood.
In terms of the food itself, the menu has all the hits of Korean dining. A must order is the signature Korean fried chicken. It comes either flavoured with soy and garlic, hot and spicy, or half and half. They’re gloriously crispy, in a rich glaze, served alongside a homemade ssamjang ranch dip. The hot and spicy has a touch of heat, but is entirely manageable. Visit during happy hour and they’re $2 a wing. There are also offers on oysters, house drinks, and several other dishes. Considering New York’s eye-watering prices, the happy hour deals were very welcome.
We tucked into Bulgogi Kimchi Fried Rice, which could have had a touch more Bulgogi if I was being greedy. It arrived garnished with a layer of grated mozzarella. It's not something I can’t say I remember the dish including when I visited South Korea, but it worked surprisingly well. The Truffle Japchae, a vegan dish comprising of noodles and mushrooms, was a hit. For dessert, the Korean theme apparently went out the window - tiramisu, New York cheesecake, chocolate mousse, and coconut cake. The cheesecake was my pick (when in New York), fluffy and not too sweet with fresh berries and syrup drizzled on top.
All in all, the food is good, but it’s beautiful space, friendly staff, and relative affordability that really make Mono + Mono well worth adding to your New York itinerary.
Palma
New York has A LOT of Italian restaurants. It was kind of a no brainer that we needed to have an Italian meal on this trip, but the sheer number of options was overwhelming. They all sounded great! Eventually I settled on Palma, swayed by the romantic outdoor courtyard. I'm a sucker for a good courtyard, what can I say.
A cosy, family run place that feels more like stepping into someone's house than a restaurant, Palma is spread across several spaces. There's indoor and outdoor dining, as well as a beautiful event space with a big communal table. It would be the perfect spot for a romantic date night, surrounded by moody lights and flowers.
The menu is short but sweet, with half a dozen pasta dishes and four mains, plus specials. It's on the steeper side, with the cheapest pasta dish coming in at $29. But with high quality ingredients sourced locally, it's not extortionate. I opted for the cacio e pepe ravioli, gloriously steeped in butter and pecorino romano. Honestly, I'm drooling just thinking about it.
Taylor Swift may never be setting foot on Cornelia Street again, but for everyone else, Palma is a very strong reason to go.
Boucherie
We live in a society that values the aesthetic nature of things. Nowadays it’s not just enough for something to be good, it needs to be good, but also, good for the gram. Whether that’s something to lament or celebrate, I’ll leave up to you. Anyway, I found Boucherie, a chic West Village spot with outposts throughout the city, from a number of oh so aesthetic Instagram snaps. It is, quite simply, stunning. A rose-tinted rendition of a French bistro, with tiled floors, classic wooden dining chairs, and a grand mirrored bar. Vintage French absinthe posters line the walls, whilst potted plants are dotted throughout. There’s also a picturesque street side terrace for warmer days.
Menu-wise, it's all the hits of French dining. There’s steak tartare to start, or escargot if you’re feeling adventurous. They’re thickly smothered in a thick, buttery garlic sauce, which makes them fairly appetising and less, you know, snaily. For mains, there’s steaks, cassoulet, or burgers and pasta dishes. I had steak frites, a juicy hunk of well cooked steak with a healthy portion of fries. It was a good dish, done well. For dessert, creme brûlée is the only acceptable option in my opinion. Theirs was a faithful rendition, the perfect just crispy crust, and not too heavy after two ample courses.
If, like me, you like good food in photogenic surrounds (and there is absolutely no shame in that!), then Boucherie is a New York must visit.
Bakeri
Hip Greenpoint spot Bakeri in Brooklyn had me at that wallpaper. It's been plastered all over my Instagram for years, so I knew I had to finally check it out in person. I visited around 4pm, when a lot of the baked goods were nearing the end, but managed to nab a wonderfully gooey pistacho citrus brownie. Me being, well, me, I paired my brownie with a matcha latte for the sake of the colour scheme. It might have been good but mainly just reinforced my dislike of matcha. I just don't get the hype! Head here in the morning for more of a selection of fresh baked produce, or head to their Williamsburg spot if Greenpoint is too far out.
Tacombi
You had me at tacos. If you're looking for a Mexican fix, head to cheerfully vibrant Tacombi on Bleecker (and multiple venues throughout the city). It's a sad fact that London Mexican dining is fairly limited, so I was keen for a more authentic experience across the pond. Luckily, Tacombi did not disappoint. The menu has all the staples, including tacos, tostadas, and quesadillas - plus don't forget a margarita! I went for the beef birria taco, made up of richly flavoured beef in a traditional corn tortilla, served with a flavourful dipping sauce. It was everything I'd hoped for - deliciously spicy, and delightfully messy. Plus by New York standards, it's fairly affordable at $11.98 for two decently sized tacos.
Jack's Wife Freda
I don't know if it's because I'm terminally online, or just a testament to its fame, but I'd heard of Jack's Wife Freda long before I visited New York. The popular all-day eatery has five branches across New York. I visited the Soho outpost, a lively, bustling corner spot with outdoor seating ideally primed for people watching.
The menu is international, with no obvious heritage. There's a breakfast menu of about half a dozen items, ranging from waffles to shakshuka. The main dishes are equally varied, including chicken kebabs, schnitzel, and even a whole fish. It does somewhat feel like the chef plucked a bunch of dishes they liked and put them on a menu with very little other justification, but hey, it works.
I went for the Jack's breakfast, comprised of a skirt steak, eggs, veg, and sourdough. The steak was perfectly cooked, best enjoyed dunked into an unidentified but very tasty green sauce. My only qualm would be that portions are fairly small for the prices - I polished off my steak with room to spare, which is fairly unlike me!
Legacy Records
Another prime example of Anoushka getting suckered in by aesthetics, as per. Long-time readers will know of my love affair with all things 70s, so I just had to pop by Hudson Yards cafe / restaurant / bar Legacy Records. The morning incarnation is Easy Victor Cafe, which is when I popped by for a pick-me-up coffee hit before a day exploring the area. It's probably more interesting later in the day when it morphs into its restaurant form. But for any fellow retro design lovers, the green art deco-esque bar alone is well worth a visit.
Juliette
Brooklyn was arguably the birthplace of the hipster, at least in New York. So it follows that the hippest of mealtimes, brunch, is in high supply in the borough. I found myself at cosy French Williamsburg spot Juliette on a Sunday morning, sat inside an airy covered courtyard space filled with greenery and bistro tiled floors. Despite arriving at opening it was packed out in mere minutes - a testament to its popularity.
On the Juliette brunch menu you'll find a mix of French staples like French onion soup and Croque Monsieur sitting alongside brunch classics such as Eggs Benedict and Shakshuka. I had a brunch special of short rib hash, a rustic dish comprised of the aforementioned short rib alongside potatoes and vegetables. Honestly, it was a bit heavy and I was confused by the inclusion of sprouts. Don't get me wrong, I'm a rare sprout fan, but not for brunch! However don't let this put you off, as my guest really enjoyed their mushrooms on toast. If you're not keen on brunch, there's also a full dinner menu.
Bars and Drinking in New York
Maison Premiere
So I have a theory. My theory is that the romanticised version of a place is often better than the actual thing it’s trying to replicate. I know, a bit wordy, but hear me out. Such is the way with Maison Premiere, a chic, New Orleans inspired restaurant and bar in Williamsburg. I have been to New Orleans, and I mainly remember sticky floored dive bars filled with drunken bachelor parties.
Maison Premiere is New Orleans as we would like it to be, sophisticated, nostalgic, and rustic, with weathered mint hued walls and a striking horseshoe bar. There is also an enchanting outdoor space, which would be the perfect spot to while away a balmy summer evening.
The food offering focuses on oysters and seafood. The cocktails are complex, with a dedicated section to absinthe. Try the Maison Absinthe Colada, a Pina Colada with a grown up twist.
It’s the kind of place that could be pretentious, or snooty, but thankfully isn’t. We chatted away to our bartender about his Doncaster roots (yep, we were surprised by that one too) and his recommendations for other bars and restaurants in the city.
Williamsburg is awash with cool restaurants and drinking spots, but for a cosy respite from pounding the pavement, or perhaps a break from the city’s many dive bars and breweries, Maison Premiere is just the thing.
UES
Cocktail puritans, look away now. You'll find gimmicks and kitsch by the bucketload at Upper East Side (hence the name, gettit?) speakeasy UES. For starters, it's hidden in the back of an unassuming ice cream shop. Once inside, the "storage room" turns out to be a lavish, if a little tacky (but there's nothing wrong with a bit of tack!), cocktail bar, decked out in leather bound booths, elaborate chandeliers, and gold frames hanging from the ceiling.
The drinks themselves are equally playful, with a focus on flair and theatricality. I ordered "Girls Gossip on the East", which arrived in flames. My guest's drink, "The Next Stop is Hunter College", came appropriately garnished with a dollop of ice cream. Other cocktails on the menu come in teacups, a large transparent heart, and giant gummy bears.
Never fear, however, it's not all style, no substance. I was pleasantly surprised with my cocktail. It was rich and sweet without being overpowering, infused with a homemade Mexican fruit puree. I've drunk a fair few cocktails in my time and this was like nothing I'd tried before - but it was delicious!
Apotheke
As regular readers know all too well, I love a speakeasy, and I love a good theme. Pair the two, and I am in my element. Apotheke in Chinatown (with further branches in Nomad and LA) does this perfectly. Step through an unremarkable door in a Chinatown backstreet, marked only by a surly security and a sign displaying a chemist’s bottle, to be transported into a former opium den inspired by European apothecaries. It’s a cosy space made up of plush sofas lining the walls, overlooked by a striking golden hued bar.
The cocktail menu is entirely unique, furthering the apothecary theme but thankfully not tasting too medicinal. There’s abinsthe if that strikes your fancy, although I settled for the slightly safer bet of tequila, with a “slow burn” - pineapple, chipotle adobo, lime, and a flaming sprig of rosemary for the sake of theatre. Essentially a spruced up Margarita. The menu is devoid of prices (eek), so just expect the worst.
The music complements the space, a mix of jazz, blues, and swing. If you’re lucky you might even catch a live act, although they were just setting up when the jet lag kicked in and my bed beckoned.
Whilst Apotheke’s concept is far from unique these days, it’s still good fun. And if, like me, you love a well executed vintage theme, it’s a must.
Key & Heels
Another speakeasy, this time hidden in plain sight as a locksmith and shoe repair shop. If that sounds too gimmicky for you, don't be deterred, as Key & Heels in anything but. Past the decoy facade you'll find no kitsch, no gimmicks, just a darn good cocktail bar. It's chic, with a slightly nostalgic, 70s feel to the decor. The ambience is low key and lounge like, although apparently there are live music and magic nights which I imagine get a bit more boisterous.
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Thank you, Madam for the wonderful photos of wonderful New York. And thank you for your good looks !