Medellín has a pretty bad rep. Synonymous with drugs, corruption, and violence, it was once considered the most dangerous city in the World. Nowadays, it's an expat mecca filled with remote-working offices, hip restaurants, even hipper hostels, and a friendly laidback, and dare I say safe, vibe. It's for lack of a better word, vibey.
In all honesty, I wasn't that fussed about visiting Medellín. I thought it was going to be another busy, uninspiring city like Bogotá, and it was hard to see it impressing after the colourful Caribbean charm of Cartagena. However so many people I met were raving about it that I felt obligated to check it out, and see what the fuss was about. Turns out, they were right. Medellín has a charm that's uniquely it's own, from the year round temperate climate, to the endless views and abundant greenery that makes you feel like you're in a city in the middle of the jungle. There's plenty to do to keep you occupied for several days, and it's got a lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere that rival's the buzziest of European cities. It's the kind of place you'll find yourself thinking "I could live here" - or at least, I certainly did!
I'm sorry to admit that this guide is fairly bare-bones, as I only had a couple of nights in the city. Until I return, it'll have to do - although if you've been, please leave your recommendations in the comments!
Things To Know
Money: The currency is Colombian pesos, and at time of writing £1 = $5,344 COP. Many places are cash only, so it's a good idea to always have some on hand. Colombian pesos aren't readily available in the UK, so make sure to order them ahead of time.
Getting Around: Medellín has an easy to navigate metro system, which is also linked to several cable car lines. It's clean, seemed relatively safe, and provides a convenient way to navigate the city.
Safety: Obviously Medellín doesn't have the best rep, but we generally found it fairly safe and didn't feel threatened at any time. Like any big city, keep your valuables close, and your wits about you.
Language: English is not very widely spoken, so I'd highly recommend learning basic Spanish phrases to get around.
Weather: Medellín is known as the city of eternal Spring, and with good reason! It's temperate year round, so expect moderate, mild weather.
Where to Stay in Medellín
Masaya Medellín
Medellín has a strong backpacker scene, particularly around the fashionable neighbourhood of Poblado. It's here that you'll find the majority of restaurants, bars, and hotels, and it's also one of the safer places to base yourself. I stayed at Masaya Medellín, a towering hostel boasting a rooftop pool and dramatic views over the city out through to the mountains. It's a modern hostel, achingly cool, a well serviced and furnished place a world away from the rat-ridden, downtrodden, 12 squeezed into a dorm kind of establishment you might normally associate with hostels. As such, it's definitely priced on the higher end, and if you're not feeling slumming it with 7 other strangers you can book a private room.
There's always lots going on at Masaya, from cooking workshops to karaoke (real fun at 11pm when you're trying to get an early night..). You can book daily excursions through the hotel, or stay in and chill at one the on-site restaurants and bars. Whatever you do, make sure you bring your swimsuit for a dip in the rooftop pool. Oh, and try the burgers, they're pretty darn good.
Just keep in mind that it's a lively place and can be loud at night, so if you're looking for a peaceful spot and a good night's sleep, it might not be for you. But if you're looking to meet new people, have fun, and maybe try your hand at a spot of late night karaoke, you'll fit right in.
Things To Do In Medellín
Comuna 13 Tour
I'm not generally one for guided tours. Stuck on someone else schedule, learning about things that happened hundreds of years ago in dreary detail.... No thanks. That said, this one is seriously worth doing. Comuna 13 was known during the 90s as one of the most dangerous barrios in Medellín, the scene of drug-fuelled battles and the stronghold of traffickers, guerrillas and gangs. Nowadays though it's been transformed through a conscientious community effort, with several projects including the instalment of escalators revitalising the neighbourhood.
You can visit by yourself, but a guide will take you through the history and provide context on the vibrant murals that adorn the walls of Comuna 13, many highlighting the past struggles the community faced. The tour gives background to Colombia's turbulent past, as well as highlighting local artists and cultures. Even if you're not interested in the history, it's worth visiting Comuna 13 to enjoy some truly spectacular views back out over the city.
Take a ride on the Cable Car
The early settlers who built Medellín way back when knew what they were doing, at least from a photogenic perspective (okay admittedly they probably didn't give such things much thought back then). The city sits in a valley surrounded by the Andes mountain range, which means that within the city pretty much everywhere you go you're rewarded with an epic view. Think sprawling rooftops and high rise tower blocks, all framed by majestic mountains. But if your bog-standard Medellín view just ain't enough, head up on the city's cable car route to really take it all in from the lofty height of nature reserve Parque Arvi.
You'll need to take two cable cars, a local one which is covered with a standard ticket, and a tourist cable car that takes you the rest of the way up to the park. Sadly on my visit the second cable car was closed for maintenance, but even just the first offered really impressive views back out over the city.
Guatape Day Trip
Medellín is well placed for day trips to many charming colonial pueblos. The most famous and well traversed is the day trip to Guatape. Known as the Pueblo de Zocalos, Guatape is a vibrant town where houses are adorned in primary colours and small 3D murals (zocalos) that represent the owner's interests or vocations.
Just outside Guatape is the El Penõl, a somewhat incongruous giant rock that can be traversed for a fee if you're feeling up to the 600+ steps (have they heard of lifts?). It's gruelling, and you'll have a few moments of wondering what you've got yourself in for, and whether you'll actually make it, but in the end it's worth it. At the top you'll find bars and restaurants, the usual tourist tat shops, and some rather excellent views back out over reservoirs and the archipelago they created.
Most tour operators will offer fully furnished coach trips, which may also include a boat trip and lunch. If you're feeling adventurous you can make the journey via local buses.
Travelling around Colombia? Check out my Cartagena Guide
Restaurants in Medellín
Kai
Vegetarian and Vegan-friendly restaurants are hard to come by in Colombia. More often than not, a vegetarian or vegan option feels like a rather lacklustre afterthought. Or even worse, you've found yourself in a crunchy yoga lifestyle cafe run by a hippie expat who swears by kale in everything. Luckily, Kai falls into neither category. It's cool, in an LA sort of way, with a plant-based menu of sharing portions and larger plates such as tacos, hamburgers and salads. As a non-vegan I could take it or leave it, but if you're looking for a respite from the meat heavy Colombian cuisine it's a great alternative.
In Situ
There can't be many prettier spots for a bite to eat in Medellín than In Situ, a restaurant set in the midst of the city's botanical garden. The modern, minimal interior opens out onto tropical views of the gardens, making it a very peaceful, atmospheric spot for a bite to eat.
The menu is extensive, and comes in English (always appreciated). It's one of those menus where everything sounds so darn good, if you're anything like me you'll find yourself umming and ahhing for ages about what to go for. For seafood lovers, there's ample to choose from, including ceviche and carpaccio. But if you're a voracious carnivore, don't worry, there's also a hefty meat selection. I went for the tenderloin in cheese fondue with mash for my main, and pretty much devoured it. And veggies, you have options too!
In Situ is on the slightly pricier side for Colombia, but by London standards it's a steal. Even though the ambience feels higher end, service is friendly, attentive and unpretentious. I'd recommend giving yourself time to work off your meal with a stroll through the gardens afterwards, which really are beautiful.
La Revuelta
I usually spend a lot of time before my trips extensively researching all the best places to eat (yes, I'm one of *those* people). I don't like to waste a mealtime with a mediocre experience! That said, we wound up with no plans on our last night in Medellín, and, feeling too lazy to wander too far, we found ourselves at nearby La Revuelta.
Turns out that sometimes planning is not always best, because La Revuelta ended up being la revelation. A buzzy Mexican joint in an open gravel-strewn courtyard, dotted with plants around refectory style tables, it's an airy, chic casual dining space. The menu reads like pretty much every Mexican menu; tacos, margs, mezcal, the works. But you know, what? If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
And there are some unique twists in there, for example my moreish starter of rib jalapeno poppers served on a bed of cheesy sauce and topped with a delicious tomato jam. Definitely order a plate or two of these for the table (or keep em all to yourself, like I did)! The tacos we tried were all 10/10. And never fear vegetarians, there's a decent number of veggie options to keep everyone satisfied.
