New York has its culture, its sights, its shopping and world class entertainment. Los Angeles has celebrities, Hollywood, the glitz and the glamour. Then there's Washington DC. Despite being the Capital of The States, it somehow lacks the obvious star power of many of the other major US cities. Prior to visiting, my perception was of a fairly corporate, uninspiring city with little to offer beyond political monuments, something that doesn't exactly fill me with enthusiasm.
Did DC manage to change my perceptions? Well, I wouldn't be writing this travel guide if it didn't! Yes, it's corporate. Big, shiny glass buildings stand shoulder to shoulder with important looking official buildings, and many of the restaurants and hotels have that sort of homogenous "airport feel" to them. But then there's Georgetown, a quaint, charming neighbourhood lined with boutiques, cosy restaurants, and the kind of beautiful historic houses that make you want to up and move to DC with a handsome husband and golden retriever in tow.
There's also political monuments aplenty. But rather than being a snooze-fest, as I had anticipated, they were actually fairly awe-inspiring. In fact, some of the memorials might have even gotten me a little emotional (don't tell). What I particularly appreciated is that the vast majority are walking distance from each other, and they're all largely free. In fact, most attractions in DC are free, including nearly all the museums.
There are many more reasons to recommend DC. It felt cleaner and calmer after the frenetic energy of New York. The government buildings, stately hotels, and landmarks in the centre lend the city an almost European aesthetic. On some streets, I wouldn't have batted an eyelid if you told me I was in Vienna. It would be a great destination with children, thanks to the plethora of educational and historical sights. But equally makes for a great couple of days getaway as part of a larger States trip, with family or friends.
I only stayed a couple of days, so this Washington DC travel guide is unfortunately fairly bare bones. However, I hope it provides a decent starting point for planning a DC trip. As ever, let me know your thoughts, comments, and suggestions in the comments below, or feel free to DM me.
DC 101
When to Visit: Like many seasonal cities, DC weather is at it's best in Spring and Fall. It's known for it's famous cherry blossom season, which usually lands in March to April. I've also heard good things about DC at Christmas!
Money: The United States uses the US Dollar ($). Cash is useful for tips, and most places take card. In the US taxes are an additional fee on top of the listed prices, plus expect to pay around 20% more in tips in restaurants and bars.
Getting Around: DC has a decent transport system, including an underground metro and network of buses. For the metro you need to purchase a SmarTrip card, whilst the buses also take cash (a standard journey is $2 at time of writing, exact change only). I used Citymapper and Google Maps to plan my routes. Altnernatively, Uber is fairly affordable and reliable in the city.
What to Pack: For any city break my go-to is always lots of light layers, particularly if visiting in Spring or Autumn. Comfortable shoes are a must for exploring the many sights, and don't forget an adaptor!
DC Top 5: 01. Ogle the Capitol Building and The White House. 02. Explore the monuments and memorials around The Mall. 03. Explore the streets and sights of Georgetown. 04. Take in the beautiful architecture of The Library of Congress. 05. Take in one of the city's many free museums.
Things To Do in Washington DC
Library of Congress
The largest library in the world, and the national library of the United States, the Library of Congress is open, and better yet, completely free to visitors. Marvel at the incredible architecture of the Thomas Jefferson buildings and take in temporary exhibitions - there was a fascinating exhibition displaying a selection of photography from the Library's collection when I visited. You can also get a glimpse inside the breathtaking reading room. To visit, you need to book a free timed entry ticket - I'd recommend booking for opening or closing to enjoy it at its quietest.
Memorials and Monuments
Of all the things to do in Washington DC, you'd be amiss to not visit the many memorials and monuments that comprise a large chunk of the city's sights. The vast majority are located around The Mall and the Tidal Basin, within easy walking or cycling distance. They're free to the public, and offer a fascinating insight into the political history of the nation. Some of the key spots to visit include:
- Lincoln Memorial: A grand neoclassical temple dedicated to, you guessed it, 16th century President Abraham Lincoln. It's one of the most striking memorials in the city due to it's dramatic location at the edge of the Reflecting Pool, opposite the Washington Monument. Personally, it was particularly exciting to channel my inner Elle Woods in Legally Blonde...
- The Capitol: Okay this one is a Government Building rather than a monument as such, but I'd argue it's a fairly monumental DC sight. There are free tours and exhibits for visitors, or marvel at the striking white facade from the surrounding Capitol Hill area.
- Washington Monument: Built in memory of President George Washington, the Washington Monument is one of the iconic sights of DC and the World's tallest stone structure and obelisk.
- Thomas Jefferson Memorial: Located on the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial is a beautiful dome building with a statue of, yep, Thomas Jefferson inside. It's a lovely location and well worth a wander around the water on a nice day.
- Korean War Memorial: Dedicated to Veterans of the Korean War, with a series of statues representing the four branches of the military, and a pool of remembrance.
- World War II Memorial: A serene spot centred around a fountain, the WWII memorial is a touching testament to those who lost their lives in the Second World War.
- Martin Luther King Jr Memorial: A visual representation of lines from his "I Have a Dream" speech, the Martin Luther King Jr memorial is one of the few memorials in honour of non-Presidents in DC.
- Roosevelt Memorial: Though less immense than some of the other memorials to President's past, Roosevelt's memorial, tucked away in a leafy corner of the Tidal Basin, feels far more intimate, with a touching rendering of the President, his wife and dog.
Explore Georgetown
A complete world away from the grand buildings of Central DC, the city's oldest neighbourhood of Georgetown is a charming place to while away an afternoon. Easily one of my favourite things to do in Washington DC was exploring the quiet suburban backstreets, picking out which houses I'd buy if I had unlimited means and a green card! It's not just fancy houses though, there's also plenty to do, including boutique shopping and a great restaurant scene (recommendations below). It's also got a lovely waterfront, which is home to more bars and restaurants, as well as outdoor activities such as kayaking and cycling. Personally, I was in my element snacking my way around the neighbourhood, with cookies from Levain bakery, cupcakes from Georgetown Cupcakes, and Bagels from Call Your Mother Deli (pictured) to fuel my adventures.
Dumbarton Oaks
Located in a residential backstreet of Georgetown, Dumbarton Oaks is a wonderful thing to do in Washington DC if you're looking for a change of pace from all the sightseeing. Comprised of a museum and gardens, it's primarily a research institution that is open to the public. I chose to visit the gardens, designed by renowned landscape architect Beatrix Farrand. Unlike the usual manicured lawns of stately homes in the UK, the Dumbarton Oaks Gardens are a wonderful maze of terraces, fountains, and unruly woodland that makes for an enjoyable exploration. I was disappointed to have just missed wisteria season, however time your trip right and you may well see the garden erupt in a riot of purples. Entry for the gardens requires a pre-purchased ticket, priced at $7.
Washington DC Restaurants
Ambar
I am for the most part, over the phenomenon of the Instagram restaurant. Circa Instagram 2018, fake florals, all things pink, and food that is all style, no substance. More often than not, just an overpriced Instagram photo op. However, Balkan restaurant Ambar, with locations in Shaw and Capitol Hill (pictured), is a masterclass in Instagram-friendly decor that's actually pleasing on the eye in real life. Yes there's flowers, and yes they are pink, but paired with lime-washed peach walls and a mint tiled bar it's not overwhelmingly saccharine. And if it's still too much for you, the other floors have done away with the flowers altogether, with rustic brick interiors and an impressive wall of wines that offers more of an Eastern European tavern ambience.
But it would do a disservice to Ambar to focus solely on the decor. The restaurant concept itself is fairly unique, with an unlimited dining menu of Balkan inspired small plates. There's options for unlimited brunch, lunch, and dinner, plus add-ons for unlimited drinks, and a dessert platter. We went for dinner, priced at $49.99 per person. With all things unlimited, whether that's good value or not really depends on your appetite!
When it came to ordering, we handed over control to our waiter to provide a selection of recommended dishes. Everything sounded so good it was too much responsibility to pick! I'm not particularly familiar with Balkan cuisine, so I won't delve too deeply into a critique of individual dishes. But of the dozen or so dishes we tried (barely scratching the surface of the extensive menu!), there were no duds. Standouts included a surprising avocado dish with strawberries and quinoa - something I never would have chosen myself, but was enjoyably fresh and light as an antidote to some of the more carb heavy dishes. For fish eaters, the sesame crusted salmon was perfectly cooked. There were also lots of delicious cheese heavy plates I'd expect from Balkan cuisine, such as cheese pie and flatbreads, which were a must.
Ambar is particularly worth visiting at the inevitable part of your trip when you've gorged on all the American burgers and fries and are looking for something that feels a bit, well, healthier, without compromising on taste or experience. It's great for vegetarians with plenty of veggie-friendly dishes. Staff were particularly accommodating, adapting meat dishes for my vegetarian guest.
Overall Ambar is a completely unique experience that offers a welcome respite from American dining. And, it looks cute on Instagram, so it's a win win really.
Le Diplomate
If there was one thing I was really excited for on my trip to DC, it was Le Diplomate. I'd seen the oh so chic French restaurant all over my Instagram when researching for the trip. As someone who tends to value aesthetics above all, whether unwisely or not, it was a definite must visit for me.
Stepping into the space, I could have been stepping into an authentic Parisian bistro. It's a sprawling space with an outdoor terrace, indoor dining room, and greenhouse. The decor is nostalgic, classic French, with bistro tiles and an embellished ceiling. The menu is everything you'd expect, plus a couple of rogue additions such as pasta and a curry chicken sandwich.
Things started off, as they tend to, with bread. I have a friend, who has a theory, that a restaurants aptitude can be gauged by the quality of its bread basket. Let’s call it the bread test. It’s usually the first thing you try, and sets the tone of the whole meal. Will it be artisanal homemade sourdough with fun flavours and a nice buttery dip, or will it be stale breadsticks out of a pack? Le Diplomate passed the bread test with flying colours. I don’t usually waste space on the bread basket, but I couldn’t stop tucking into the ever so slightly warm, crispy but soft in the middle slices. So expectations were set high.
For mains, I went for the "Burger Américain". In a French restaurant? Sacré Bleu! In my defence, it was one of my last meals of the trip and I had yet to have a burger, when in The States and all! I have no regrets. The burger was what it was, in a good way. A well cooked patty, just melted gloriously fake American cheese, garnished with onions and gherkins and served with a hefty portion of slivery french fires. Just what I was craving.
Whilst DC is not an obvious destination for the aesthetes among us, Le Diplomate offers a moment of romance in an otherwise corporate city. And, if you're so inclined, a darn good burger and fries.
Residents
Having narrowly missed cherry blossom season in DC, Residents, a buzzy outdoor terrace restaurant and bar in Dupont Circle, is the next best thing. As usual, I picked it because, well, it looked pretty. Yes, I am definitely someone who judges a book by it's cover. If that makes me shallow, so be it.
The patio space is everything your average social media enthusiast would want from a restaurant - a canopy of blooms, marble tables, swathes of plants and pops of colour from artfully arranged chairs and pillows. Sometimes, such places can feel hollow. A facade for a cute Instagram pic, and little more. But Residents has no airs, it's cosy, friendly, and unpretentious. It's also dog friendly, which as someone who spent most of my meal distracted by all the adorable canine cuties dotted around the restaurant, was a major plus.
The dinner menu is fairly concise, consisting of around a dozen small and large sharing plates. There are bites: gyros, hummus, and fries amongst others. And plates: burgers, octopus, a tempting lamb shank. We decided to share a selection of the former, opting for the hummus, croquettes, and burrata. Of the three, the hummus was a star, light and richly flavoursome with lashings of zoug and olive crumble. It came with a crispy fried bread so good I could have happily eaten that alone. The burrata with pesto and peas was skippable, according to my notes it "tasted green", so make of that what you will.
The cocktails are photogenic, but also actually good. It's the kind of place I'd come for drinks and bites with a group of girlfriends before a night out. That said, Residents garnered a fairly varied crowd of mixed groups. Staff were friendly and didn't bat an eyelid at me taking a endless photos (always appreciated). In fact they even gave me some tips for other places to check out in DC, which I will dutifully share with you all here in this guide!
Washington DC Bars
Vue Rooftop
You don't tend to think of skyscrapers when you think of DC. However, it's home to a surprising number of rooftops. Like any decent city, these have been transformed into bars and restaurants, because the best way to enjoy a sunset is obviously with a cocktail in hand. I found myself at Vue Rooftop, perched atop the dignified Hotel Washington, at golden hour. With panoramic views out over the city, with a particularly prime spot overlooking the Washington Monument, it's the perfect place to watch the sun set. I'd already eaten (something I immediately regretted when I looked over the drool-worthy dinner menu), but happily tucked into a couple of their delicious cocktails whilst taking in the views.
Other Washington DC Bars and Restaurants
- Martin's Tavern (pictured): A historic family run restaurant in the heart of Georgetown. Pub style classics plus a hefty brunch menu, however not great for vegetarians. Honestly, I wasn't blown away by the food, but it was completely packed on a Tuesday lunchtime with locals and tourists alike, so is clearly a popular spot!
- Clyde's: Another Georgetown institution, Clyde's is a saloon serving burgers, pasta and fish dishes in a beautiful dark wood, print lined space that feels like stepping into a bygone era.
- The Allegory: Speakeasy style vibes tucked behind behind a nondescript black door in downtown hotel Eaton DC. This moody cocktail bar stands out for it's striking murals by artist Erik Thor-Sandberg, inspired by the tales of Alice in Wonderland given a twist by incorporating the story of civil rights activist Ruby Bridges. I didn't get a chance to check this one out, but it was recommended by one of the lovely staff at Residents, so let me know what it's like if you go!
- Silver Lyan: Set inside a former bank vault at Riggs Hotel, this chic cocktail spot by British cocktail maven Mr Lyan (of Lyaness bar in London, amongst others) is a sophisticated spot for a tipple.
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