Taiwan was one of the very last countries we visited on our big 6 month Asia trip. As such, our planning was rather last minute, lacklustre, and fairly minimal. Frankly, we were far from our shiny, excitable selves that started travelling 5 months earlier. But instead of meticulously planned agendas and rushing around shooting everything, it allowed us to take it slow, and explore spontaneously. Our itinerary was based purely off vibes, which is how we ended up in Tainan.
Whilst Taiwan's capital, Taipei, is fairly well documented, Tainan, it's oldest city, is less frequented by travellers. We were drawn in by the promise of excellent cuisine - many claim Tainan to be the country's foodie capital. So our days were spent wandering, eating, eating some more, interjected with various naps and occasionally the odd cocktail.
Tainan doesn't have many flashy must-visit sights, but it's food culture, cool bars, cafes, and overall ambience make it well worth adding to a Taiwan itinerary. As such, I've put together some of my favourite experiences and things to do in Tainan, to hopefully provide a starting point for your own explorations.
This post includes affiliate links, which means if you purchase a hotel or activity through one of these links, I may make a small commission at no cost to you. This pays for the upkeep and hosting fees for this blog, so is much appreciated.
Tainan 101
Money and currency in Tainan: Taiwan uses the Taiwanese dollar (NT$). At time of writing, £1 is equal to $40.93, and $1USD is equal to $31. There's a strong cash culture, and many restaurants are cash only, so make sure to have some notes on you.
When to visit Tainan: There's not so much a best time to visit Tainan, as there is a worst time to visit Tainan. This is Summer (May to September), aka typhoon season. Despite this, we actually visited in July, which meant the odd rainy day. Though it didn't affect our time in Tainan too much, it meant outdoor activities in other parts of Taiwan were impacted.
Getting to Tainan: Taiwan has an excellent rail system, which makes getting around the country very straightforward. You can buy tickets at the station, or reserve your tickets in advance using apps. The T Express app (Apple | Android) is the official mobile ticketing app for the Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR). Then the Taiwan Railway e-booking app (Apple | Android) is for regular inter-city trains. They can be a little confusing to navigate, so make sure you get the hang of them in advance. For certain local trains you can also use an EasyCard.
Getting around Tainan: Tainan is very walkable, with most journeys only around 20 minutes by foot. However, for sights further afield, such as those around Anping, there are local buses, or Uber.
Where to stay in Tainan: My pick for the best neighbourhood to stay in Tainan is West Central District, in the heart of the city. The areas around Jhongjheng Road, Section 2, Minsheng Road, and Section 2, Ximen Road, are where are lot of the sights and restaurants in this guide are based, making this the ideal vicinity for sightseeing. See my top hotel picks below.
Where to Stay in Tainan
Note: We learned the hard way that accommodation in Taiwan is relatively expensive compared to much of SE Asia, and fairly limited in terms of choice. Book well in advance, or you'll be struggling to find anything decent. Look out for room sizes (the cheapest are often shoe boxes), and whether the room you're booking has a window!). The place we stayed in was... fine, but I wouldn't actively recommend it. Instead I've scoured booking sites to find some of the better accommodation options in Tainan, across all budgets.
Budget Tainan Hotels
- IsShoNi house: Light, airy aesthetics and a central location make this an excellent Tainan stay option.
- Roots Chew Hotel: Tainan's "urban" feel is encapsulated in this modern stay, well situated in West Central District.
- Hope Hotel Tainan: Decent sized, clean, comfortable rooms with a very decent price tag - though you may have to put up with a lack of noise insulation.
Mid Range Tainan Hotels
- Loku. Tainan: Rustic meets industrial at this cool, intimate hotel in a vibey Tainan neighbourhood.
- Hôtel de Ľeau: Should you wish to base yourself closer to the sights of Anping, this is a stylish and well-equipped stay option.
- The Retro Tai-Pan: Minimal, Japanese interiors and a super central location make this a top choice hotel in Tainan.
- Laile: Laile offers plenty of quirky Tainan charm, housed in a traditional building with playful furnishings.
Luxury* Tainan Hotels
- U.I.J Hotel & Hostel: The industrial aesthetic is elevated here, with stylish festoon-lit outdoor spaces, and plenty of hangout spots. There are also dorm beds available for those on a tighter budget.
- Shangri-La Far Eastern: Tainan's fanciest branded property from hotel chain Shangri-La. It's a tad corporate, but with all the trimmings of a luxury stay at a decent price.
- Provintia Hotel: The sleek, mid-century interiors at this elegant hotel would make this my personal pick of the bunch.
*Okay, luxury is a bit of a stretch as Tainan doesn't have a massive luxury hotel scene, but these are essentially higher end choices!
Things to do in Tainan
Anping Treehouse
Though most of Tainan's sightseeing is found in the centre of the city, it's well worth heading West to explore the Anping District. The area is a prime destination to experience Taiwan's colonial history and culture, with sights including Anping Fort, built under Dutch colonial rule. It's also home to one of the most unique things to do in Tainan: Anping Tree House. Here, the former warehouse of trading company Tait and Co has been reclaimed by nature, the structure taken over by the roots and branches of Banyan trees. Paths and elevated walkways have been put in to allow visitors to explore the space, and there's also a small museum with artefacts exploring the history of the site and Tainan's colonial past. It's a somewhat surreal sight, this man-made structure and nature merging together to create an entirely new, otherworldly form.
The site is open to visitors from 08:30-17:00, and full price adult tickets cost NT$70. Combine with a visit to Anping Old Street, and dinner at Kira Bistro (more below).
Tainan Art Museum
I can confirm that during rainy season in Taiwan it does, in fact, rain. So what do you do in Tainan when it's pouring it down? Head to the Tainan Art Museum, of course. There are actually two buildings housing Tainan's art collection - Building One, in a converted Art Deco police station, and Building Two, a colossal modern structure in the heart of town. We went to the latter, to explore the several levels of contemporary art exhibitions. This included a particularly topical exhibition exploring the relationship between AI and Art, and an exhibition exploring the work of Taiwanese artist Chen Chun-Lu. There's also a decent cafe, Umber, on site (complete with a very stylish gift shop), well worth popping in for a post-exploration coffee.
Regular tickets cost NT$200. The Museum is open Tuesdays-Sundays 10:00-18:00, with 21:00 closing on Saturdays. Allow yourself several hours, as there's plenty to see.
Shennong Street
Tainan's prettiest street is also one of its most historic, and a can't miss if you're looking to discover the city's traditional culture. Lantern lined Shennong Street dates back to the Qing Dynasty, when It was the entrance to the "Five Channels". Merchants arriving by sea would enter the town here, as the gateway into Tainan and it's main commercial hub.
The street is lined with traditional style shophouses, now hosting cafes and shops selling tourist souvenirs, interspersed by the odd temple. It's particularly picturesque at night, when the lanterns light up the street. If you're looking to make an evening of it, combine with a visit to nearby bar Den of Thieves (full review below).
Anping Old Street
Anping Old Street holds the distinction of being the oldest street in Taiwan's oldest city. Built by the Dutch, it was the first named street in Taiwan, and is now a major tourist destination. Street food and souvenir stalls have taken over the traditional structures lining the street, making it a great spot to try local delicacies and stock up on presents. It's definitely very touristy, and personally I preferred the vibes of Shennong Street, but nonetheless well worth wandering down when you're exploring Anping.
Confucius Temple
Constructed in 1666, Tainan's Confucius Temple is the oldest of its kind in the country. The red-hued complex is fairly compact, made up of a handful of different buildings and structures. It's a serene place to explore the history and traditions of Tainan, and a beautifully preserved example of traditional architecture. Some of the buildings host small exhibits, displaying objects like traditional instruments, and outlining the ceremonies and festivals that have taken place on the premises.
The main complex is free to enter, however there's a small fee for the palace within the grounds. There's also a number of interactive digital games that are fun for kids (or big kids, Adam had a blast!). If you really want to feel cultured, combine with the Art Museum, which is just around the corner.
Blueprint Culture & Creative Park
One of Taiwan's more unusual experiences that we discovered is the plethora of "creative parks". These multi-use spaces have sprung up in cities across the country, where former industrial buildings now house independent boutiques, cafes, art galleries, and cultural institutions.
In Tainan, you'll find this in full swing at Blueprint, a culture and creative park born from a former prison dormitory. It's a fairly condensed space lined with unique, artistically inclined shops, and a number of galleries. There's a silver jewellery workshop, an indigo dying shop, and a ceramics studio.
Personally, I got carried away in cafe and gift shop Cheer For, where I picked up fun, artsy souvenirs for friends back home. Look out for gorgeous scented goods like candles and soaps, playful DIY desk organisers, and curations of goods from local artists and design houses.
Sicao Green Tunnel
Sicao Green tunnel is a mangrove lined waterway in the Taijang National Park, around a 20 minute drive from central Tainan. It's known as a for its birdwatching opportunities, and visitors can take bamboo rafts through the tunnel. There's a couple of different tours, so make sure you purchase tickets for the right route. These can be bought at the ticket desk, or in advance via Get Your Guide. Unfortunately it was shut due to typhoon damage when we attempted to visit, so I can't provide much information, but it looks beautiful!
Restaurants and Cafes in Tainan
串亦燒-海安店 (Izakaya Restaurant)
Our first night in Tainan, we'd been thoroughly spoiled by street eats in Taipei in the days prior, so fancied something a little different. And so we ended up stumbling upon this Izakaya Restaurant (the name is only in Chinese, and doesn't seem to translate particularly well). Izakaya is an informal Japanese dining format, serving alcoholic beverages with small sharing plates - not unlike tapas, or mezze. It's an ample menu, with a range of sushi, nigiri, skewers, and tasty fried treats. We sat outside with beers, nigiri, and a selection of skewers so roughly translated we didn't quite know what we were ordering, watching the world go by. I can't for the life of me, writing this now several months later, find my notes for this one, so I'm afraid I can't share a more in-depth breakdown - but I remember thoroughly enjoying this meal!
My Beverages Cafe
We stumbled upon My Beverages after getting turned away from a nearby brunch spot (see below). This quirky cafe sprawls across two floors, every spare surface crammed with books and mismatched antique furniture. I love cafes with character, and My Beverages offers it in spades.
The menu focuses on coffee, teas and sweet treats. We decided to split a lemon tart and basque cheesecake. The tart was skippable (it needed thawing to eat), but the cheesecake was delicious. It's a great place to cosy up with a book, or bring your laptop for a spot of remote working.
Peko Peko
The first time we tried to get a table at cosy brunch spot Peko Peko, it was Sunday around quarter past 10. The worst possible time to attempt to secure a brunch table, and we were dutifully turned away (if you want a weekend table, book in advance). So we came back the next morning, eagerly anticipating this brunch after all the alluring breakfast smells the day before.
The menu is full of enticing breakfast dishes and baked goods. We finally settled on a Full English (call it nostalgia for home), a yoghurt bowl, and cinnamon roll (of which there are multiple renditions). I usually only eat yoghurt bowls under duress but Peko Peko's take is surprisingly good. It's not too sweet, not too frozen (my sensitive teeth can’t hack it), and lots of different textures so it doesn’t just taste like mush. Of the Full English, Adam described the sausages as “like home sausages”, so that’s high praise indeed. The Japanese icing cinnamon roll is utterly decadent, topped with caramelised walnuts. It's one of those treats where you know you're full, but can't help going back for “just one more bite”.
Ultimately, if you're craving a hearty international breakfast or brunch in Tainan, Peko Peko should be on your list.
Walami
I singled out Walami for lunch one day in Tainan, purely due to the gorgeous golden retriever who languishes by the counter, ready to receive belly rubs. Honestly, the food could have been awful and I wouldn’t have minded. It's a hidden spot, down a secret plant lined back-alley in a cool restaurant-filled neighbourhood. The space itself is what you might describe as aesthetically shabby, with peeling layers and various odds and ends vaguely clustered in corners. There's rogue skateboards, animal skulls, and empty antique frames all serving as interior decor.
The menu is an interesting fusion of flavours, consisting of noodles in various guises. You have the choice of dry noodles or soup noodles, including lemon, kimchi, truffle and lava white sauce options. The menu is in Chinese, so a little guesswork and some rough translation is involved. We eventually opted for the white lava dry noodles, which turned out to be seafood noodles in a creamy white sauce. The noodles appeared to be handmade, rustic with plenty of texture. The prawns were cooked well, though the clams were slightly under for our taste. I found the whole dish a tad fishy, but Adam, who is more enthusiastic when it comes to fishy flavours, heartily enjoyed. We also opted for the pork wontons, which is not for the spice sceptics. Heavy with chilli, my nose was dripping by the end!
The presentation is picturesque, definitely one for those who like to capture their meals before they eat them. But it's also a unique menu, well worthy trying. And y’know, there’s a dog, so…
Kira Bistro
When selling dinner at Kira Bistro to Adam, I described it as “Shoreditch fancy, not Mayfair fancy”. This probably won't make much sense if you're not a fellow Londoner, but for those Londoners reading, you'll know exactly what I mean. A guy wearing black with a ponytail takes our order, of dishes that are described solely by their components (and very roughly translated by Google, so we’re not entirely sure what we’re about to eat).
Most of our meals in Taiwan up until this point had been fairly no frills, plenty of stripped back canteens and street markets. But Kira is a sophisticated affair. We ordered focaccia with mint and hummus, fried chicken, oyster risotto and salmon. The portion of salmon was about twice the size of what you’d be served in London, in a sauce thick with dill. Tiny crispy prawns provide texture, a touch Adam could not stop raving about. However it was the oyster risotto that really impressed us, wonderfully creamy and rich with flavour.
It was a picture of a decadent mountain of tiramisu that first brought Kira to my attention, so despite bursting at the seams, we obviously had to order one (two spoons). It was smaller in real life (thankfully), an artistic pile of cream, ladyfingers, and cocoa. The flavours were there, though it could have perhaps done with a splash less booze.
Despite being expensive by Taiwanese standards, by ten past 5 the small space is full. Book in advance, we reserved earlier in the day and nabbed the last table. It's cash only, corkage NT$200, minimum spend NT$400pp (around £10).
Street Food Markets in Tainan
Taiwan is known for it's excellent street food and night market culture, which is alive and well in Tainan. However, Tainan's Night Markets work on quite a unique schedule, in that the various markets around the city are all open on different days of the week. Therefore, where you'll head to eat that night very much depends on which day it is.
Dadong Night Market: East Tainan, open Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays.
Wusheng Night Market: Central(ish), open Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.
Tainan Garden Night Market: The biggest of Tainan's night markets. North Tainan, open Thursday - Sunday.
Of these three, we found ourselves at Dadong. The market is a mix of street food stalls, and stands selling toys, games, and souvenirs. The latter is honestly mostly cheap plastic goods, but hey, we're really here for the food. A surprising standout was actually a stall selling "Okonomiyaki", a style of Japanese savoury pancake with pork or seafood. Other dishes to keep an eye out for include Taiwanese fried chicken, and fried sweet potato balls.
If you're looking for more information on where to go and what to eat, this blog post is very detailed.
Bars and Nightlife in Tainan
Chikan Pharmacy Bar
If there's one thing Tainan does well, it's a good speakeasy style cocktail bar. Now bars based around apothecary / pharmacy themes are nothing new, and yet, it's a trope I still can't resist. Chikan Pharmacy Bar, set in an old pharmacy, is Tainan's take on the concept. There's a convivial host who greets you in a quirky holding area, before leading guests into the atmospheric bar. Cocktails are the order of the day here, and they do them very well. Ours were a full sensory experience, with some of them smelling even better than they tasted (and they tasted great!). My ramos gin fizz, for instance, had to set for 10 minutes before it was served, which really amped up the anticipation.
There's a minimum spend of NT$500 per person, excluding food. Most drinks come in just under, so you're looking at two rounds. Book in advance for peak hours, as it's a fairly small space.
Den of Thieves
I know I shouldn't play favourites, however you've only got time for one cocktail bar in Tainan, I'd make it Den of Thieves. This tiny hole in the wall bar is hidden away on the second floor of a market, making finding it in the first place half the fun. The name is inspired by the early days of the market, when the theft and sale of arms, guns, antiques, and drugs on the second floor of market was rampant. There's a couple of tables next to the bar, then a cosy attic style space up a pair of rickety stairs.
The menu is only in Mandarin, which makes ordering a bit of a gamble. I went for a gin and pistachio cocktail, purely because I’ve never had or even seen a pistachio cocktail on a menu. It was sweet but not aggressively so, and very light and easy to drink. Adam kept it classic with his tipple of choice, an old fashioned. In fact, he's a total old fashioned snob, and proceeded to tell me for several minutes why this was a good one (something about sugar and big ice cubes).
It’s common for bars in Tainan to serve food, and Nachos were a surprisingly delicious extra. There's a minimum spend (another common theme in Tainan bars), of NT$400 excluding food. The average cocktail comes in around NT$380, so again, you're looking at two rounds.
Bar Home
This stylish, dimly lit cocktail bar truly does feel like stepping into someone's home, albeit a very sleek one. There's no left out laundry, no mismatched cutlery. Instead, you're greeted at Bar Home by chic, dark wood interiors, mint walls, and red velvet curtains, all coming together for a vaguely nostalgic, speakeasy-esque feel. Like the other bars on this list, food is served, with a fairly comprehensive menu of wontons, rices, and fries.
The signature cocktail menu is one of those that, on first glance, reads as rather pretentious. Ingredients include caper and cauliflower - and that’s just one drink! Usually such bars are either wielding some sort of mixology magic… or just bad. Thankfully Bar Home is firmly the former. For adventurous drinkers, there's plenty of weird and wonderful choices that come together to form surprisingly coherent, elevated drinks. And for the risk averse, never fear, you can still get a classic cocktail.
If you get through those and are looking for more spots for a drink in Tainan, here are a few more bars I earmarked but didn't quite make it to: Show Show Bar, Bar TCRC, and YongFu Mansion.
Tainan is a destination I had very little expectation of, but which thoroughly won me over with it's laidback vibe and foodie hotspots. Taiwan's cultural capital has plenty for those seeking out history and tradition but, beyond that, its excellent eating and drinking scene makes it a thoroughly well rounded travel destination. Here, Taiwan cool meets centuries-old culture down hidden back alleys and in old school shophouses. By day, there's art galleries, temples, museums. By night, a cacophony of sights and smells at the night markets, and secret speakeasies tucked in unsuspecting corners. For those in the know, there's plenty to discover.
I hope this travel guide to the best things to do in Tainan has provided you with inspiration for your own Tainan travels. If you've been, what else would you recommend? And if you do visit, do let me know how you find these activities and experiences in the comments down below.
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