It's hard to put the essence of Abu Dhabi into words. I should know, I've been sat here trying for the past hour. My first foray into The Middle East, the United Arab Emirates Capital managed to simultaneously be everything and nothing like I expected. There's the overt, omnipresent luxury, for the UAE's reputation as the rich man's playground is not without merit. Five star hotels and world class restaurants all reside in Abu Dhabi, entertaining the swathes of businessmen and women transiting through the city. It's a true "World City", a melting pot of international business talent and a local community comprising predominantly of Indians and Filipino's who have made the city home.
Often overshadowed by it's flashier neighbour Dubai, Abu Dhabi is nonetheless subtly carving a reputation for itself as a destination in it's own right. There truly is something for everyone: revel in cosmopolitan city life with some of the world's best dining and hospitality experiences, or get away to nature with pristine beaches, tranquil mangrove forests, and desert adventures. Though the city is a modern one through and through, there are also pockets of culture and heritage to be discovered, such as the breathtaking Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque.
I visited for four days with Visit Abu Dhabi, on a whirlwind adventure soaking up as much as I could of the city's many attractions. The trip was jam packed, and yet I still feel like I barely scratched the surface. Until I get the opportunity to return, here is but a small glimpse at everything Abu Dhabi has to offer.
Things To Know
Money: The currency is United Arab Emirates dirham, and at time of writing 20 dirham is worth around £4. You can use card pretty much everywhere, but it's worth having a bit of cash on hand for tipping and any emergencies.
Getting Around: We used Uber pretty much everywhere in Abu Dhabi, as well as local app Careem. There is a tourist shuttle that we discovered at the end of our trip so didn't get round to using, but it looked pretty good if you're staying at one of the hotels on it's route!
Safety: Never say never and all that, but Abu Dhabi felt incredibly safe whilst I was out there, and at no point did we feel threatened or have any issues.
Language: Abu Dhabi attracts people from all over the world for work, so English is predominantly spoken.
Weather: It's hot! On my visit temperatures sat firmly around the 30 degrees mark, with very little respite.
How to dress in Abu Dhabi
It can be a bit of a minefield trying to pack appropriately for a Muslim country. It doesn't help that the temperatures are so hot that you don't exactly want to layer up. Whilst United Arab Emirates is fairly liberal and you can in theory get away with wearing more revealing clothing, I'd still recommend dressing more conservatively out of respect for the local culture.
My Abu Dhabi wardrobe was generally midi and maxi dresses, largely with sleeves and higher necklines. For anything more revealing I had a shawl on hand. However it really depends on where you're going - for example, you need to be fully covered (including a head covering) when visiting the Mosque. However around your hotel or at dinner you can usually be slightly more relaxed when it comes to covering up. Generally I'd say to err on the side of caution, but ultimately do whatever feels most comfortable for you.
Where to Stay in Abu Dhabi
Rosewood Abu Dhabi
Abu Dhabi is all about that 5 star experience. Every top hotel brand has an outpost here, from shiny modern tower blocks to classic Arabic-style palaces (I'm looking at you, Emirates Palace!). I stayed at the Rosewood Abu Dhabi, a sleek, stylish 34 storey waterfront block on Al Maryah Island. It's elegant and undoubtedly high-end without verging into gaudy, with gold accents and lavish chandeliers giving it that Middle Eastern touch. The standout is the outdoor terrace, ornamented with striking metal pillars that jut out from the pool. What purpose they serve, I have no idea. But they're very aesthetic, particularly when lit up at night.
The rooms are spacious and well equipped, and staff are friendly and accommodating. There's several restaurants throughout the hotel, though we didn't have time to try them out. However we did make it to the hotel's travel-themed gin bar, The Hidden Bar (spoiler: it's not particularly hidden, but it is good!). If you're a gin drinker, it's a must, and even if you're not, it's worth it for the views. The hotel is directly connected to the Galleria Mall in the basement - head down for a night at (actually hidden) bar Dragon's Tooth for stiff drinks in speakeasy surrounds.
Things To Do In Abu Dhabi
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
If Abu Dhabi has a star attraction, it's this. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is the largest in the country, and the only one non-Muslims are allowed to visit. A mammoth, sprawling complex of marble domes and pillars, it's certainly grand. A real feat of Islamic architecture, over 90,000 tonnes of Macedonian marble makes up the facade, alongside semi-precious stones and Swarovski crystal chandeliers. Whilst it may look classic in style, it's actually surprisingly modern, with construction commencing in 1996.
At time of writing you have to follow a one way system to get around the mosque, and photos are only allowed at dedicated photo spots. I'm not sure if these are temporary Covid-related measures, or the normal system, but it can make taking photos tricky. However it does also mean visitors aren't allowed in the main open space, which allows for some nice clear shots, so swings and roundabouts!
Conservative dress is required - for women, this means full body covering including your head. They usually have abayas on hand to borrow, however these weren't available at the time due to the pandemic. I got my dress from Aaliya Collections in advance of the trip.
Qasr al Hosn
Historial fort and museum Qasr al Hosn is a fascinating look into the history of Abu Dhabi, housed in an oh so aesthetic compound that started life as a watchtower in 1760. The space features a thorough historical narrative of the city, as well as gallery spaces and a "House of Artisans" highlighting regional crafts.
I'll be honest with you though, I spent most of my visit looking through my lens. The whitewashed stone walls artistically speckled with palm tree shadows may be less flashy than some of the other spots on this list, but they provided plenty of inspiration for my camera! Even if you're not interested in history or aesthetically pleasing architecture, it's a lovely peaceful spot to while away a morning away from the flocks of tourists the other sights attract.
Louvre Abu Dhabi
Fun fact: the Abu Dhabi outpost of the renowned Paris Museum reportedly paid a staggering $525 million for the licensing of the famous name. Is it worth it? Debatable, but a visit to the Louvre Abu Dhabi is nevertheless a must when in the city. An architectural marvel with an $108 million build price tag (yes I did do a lot of googling for this), it's a real spectacle sat floating out on the edge of Saadiyat Island with unrivalled views out over the Persian Gulf.
The exhibitions run over 12 galleries, spanning human history through civilisations and cultures. I was in a bit of a rush so didn't get much opportunity to take these in, but I'd estimate around 2/3 hours to get the most out of your visit.
Qasr Al-Watan
To really immerse yourself in Arabic architecture and design, a visit to the Presidential palace Qasr Al-Watan is a must. The name translates to "Palace of the Nation", and it was exclusively used for government purposes until it was opened up to the public in 2019. Every corner is lavishly decorated with intricate details - it had me wishing my office (aka my sofa) looked so fancy! The main areas of interest, other than the breathtaking building itself, are the House of Knowledge, which houses important historical and cultural artefacts, and the library, which houses over 50,000 books.
Emirates Desert Tour
Visiting the desert has been high up on my bucket list for a very long time, and I finally got to tick it off in Abu Dhabi. I did the half day desert safari trip with Emirates Tours, which includes a hotel pick up and drive out to a Bedouin-inspired camp in the desert for sunset, dinner and a show. We had a nausea-inducing but oh so fun dune bashing journey out to get there - for the uninitiated, this involves off roading up and down the sand dunes. Kind of like a desert rollercoaster!
At the camp there were activities available including sand-boarding and quad biking, although we spent the time frantically trying to capture the sunset before we lost the light (#InstagramLife, amiright?). Then once the sun sets, you're treated to a traditional show and buffet dinner, enjoyed under the starlit sky. It's a pretty magical experience, seeing the endless dunes of the desert in real life. Less so the panic of trying to capture them when there's sand blowing at ferocious speeds into your eyes and you're struggling to walk without sinking at every step...
Jubail Mangrove Park
Okay, I am not an adventure activities person. I like culture, I look cocktails, I like comfort. Abseiling down a mountain or jumping off cliffs or hiking for more than a couple of hours, nah, not my kind of trip. I'm pretty sure I audibly groaned when I saw kayaking listed as one of the itineraries on this trip. Me + water + strenuous activity? No thanks. But I ended up surprising myself.
Jubail Mangrove Park is pretty much what it says on the tin - an extensive network of mangrove lined waterways best enjoyed by kayak. And you know what? I actually kind of loved it. The mangrove park is a peaceful pocket of nature away from the heavily built up and sanitised heart of Abu Dhabi, and a gentle amble through it by kayak provided a much needed respite from city life. We did an hour on the water out and back in on a two person kayak, but you can also visit and explore via boardwalk if water-sports aren't your thing.
Wahat al Karama
Wahat al Karama, a striking structure of aluminium clad tablets that acts as a memorial to UAE servicemen and woman, from soldiers to politicians, would realistically not be the popular sight it is were it not for the prime view of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque across the road. Though the memorial is interesting in itself, the majority of tourists come here to enjoy the spectacle of the sun setting over the mosque, enveloping the scene in a beautiful golden glow as the light fades. Expect to jostle with photographers and Instagrammers for a spot, or come at a quieter time to enjoy the memorial and views sans crowds.
Emirates Park Zoo and Resort
If you're looking to get up close and personal with a range of furry four-legged friends, the Emirates Park Zoo and Resort is the place. I'm not much of a zoo-goer generally - I think the only time I get to the London one is for Zoo Lates, when I'm enticed in by cocktails and no kids! But at the Emirates Park Zoo I was like a kid myself, squealing over every cute animal and rushing up to pet and feed them all. I was in my element!
As well as getting to feed the animals, we also enjoyed a special Iftar meal with the giraffes. We were served up a truly slap up spread whilst the giraffes fed next to us, craning into our cosy enclave from their enclosure. They mainly stuck to their own food, but they did occasionally take a swipe at a salad! They're so cute though, could you be mad at that face? Though hanging out with giraffes was the obvious highlight, I also got to try Middle Eastern dessert "Kanafeh" for the first time, and um, it's delicious? I might have to return for the sweet treats alone!
The National Aquarium
I'll be real with you, an aquarium is never going to top my travel bucket list. Fishes are fishes wherever you are, and besides, these things tend to be catered more to younger audiences. That said, the Abu Dhabi National Aquarium was a pleasant surprise. It's compact enough not to get jaded by endless swimming critters, and displays are thoughtfully and creatively staged with an immersive take on underwater exploration.
There's a submarine themed zone, a "frozen" ocean, and even a rainforest to traverse. The star of the show is the glass-roofed walkway surrounded by sea life - although they seem to have rather a knack of disappearing the second you pull out a camera!
Unsurprisingly it's a must if you're looking for family friendly activities in Abu Dhabi. But even if you're just looking for a respite from the endless heat with a little air conditioned sojourn, it's a fun take on life under the sea.
Restaurants in Abu Dhabi
Tamba
Our first full day in Abu Dhabi, starving and with absolutely no idea where to go or what to eat, we ended up stumbling into Indian restaurant Tamba. Sat atop the World Trade Centre Mall, it's an elegant industrial space with traditional touches. There's also an outdoor terrace, although we opted for a reprieve from the heat and sheltered indoors!
They do a lunchtime deal of two cocktails and a bite (a small plate) for 99 dirham, which works out to just over £20 at time of writing. Doesn't sounds like a great deal, but by Abu Dhabi standards, it's a steal. The cuisine is largely Indian but with fusion elements, in particular a real Japanese influence as evidence by the raw selection.
We went for a selection of small dishes, including a selection of yoghurt flavoured arancini fragrant with cardamom, raw bites of salmon and spicy tuna, and a portion of juicy king prawns loaded with spice. In fact everything had a bit of a kick to it, which I welcome! There's also plenty of theatricality, with the prawns served up in a whirl of dry ice haze.
All in all this probably ended up being one of my favourite meals in Abu Dhabi, as everything was delicious and the staff were so friendly and welcoming even though we were taking a gazillion photos of everything!
La Carnita
La Carnita is situated in trendy Yas Bay, a waterfront destination that houses dining and drinking options as well as entertainment such as the Ferrari and Warner Brothers theme parks. We spent an afternoon lazing it up at the bougie beach club before heading out in search of food - doing nothing is hungry work! La Carnita is a stylish Mexican restaurant on the pier, serving up your usual tacos and nachos as well as some hefty meat cuts. Whilst it probably doesn't compare next to the best of Mexican dining I've experienced in London, it's a buzzy spot and perfectly decent for a round of tacos and margs at happy hour while the sun sets.
Hakkasan
Hakkasan is a fabled name on the London dining scene, known for it's fine dining take on Cantonese cuisine. The Abu Dhabi outpost takes the brand's high end feel to new levels. Set in the city's luxurious Emirates Palace, it's comprised over an expansive dining area and bar with a stylish terrace overlooking a dazzling high rise skyline. In a city that exudes luxury, this is its most decadent. The interiors are almost pitch black, whilst the terrace (a prime spot, so book in advance) is almost solely lit by the night lights of the city. And you want to come at night, to really soak up the glamour.
There are multiple set dining menus on offer, or there are ample a la carte options. Everything is, quite frankly, extortionate, and portions are small. Unless you have the means to push the boat out, it's honestly just a little bit painful. We started things off with the dim sum platter, tiny morsels of quality ingredients such as truffle and lobster in picturesque packaging. Delicious, you'll just wish you had a dozen more. For mains, the scallops and rib-eye beef did not put a foot wrong, particularly when painstakingly lingering over every bite. Was I blown away? No, but I think I was too busy crying over the bill.
