Marrakech is the perfect location for a mini getaway from London. It's 3 hours by plane, there is no time difference so no pesky jetlag to worry about, and it's compact enough to thoroughly cover in a couple of days. Alongside these conveniences it has so much more to recommend it, such as the thrill of haggling in the souks, the calm of the city's many picture postcard Riads, and the breathtaking architecture, a world away from the grey concrete of the UK.
THINGS TO KNOW
Marrakech as a female traveller
I’ve been to the city twice now, as it feeds my love of colour, vibrancy, and maximalism that London just can’t match. However it does have it’s drawbacks, particularly for female travellers. Being a Muslim country you should expect to cover up, and even if you do you’ll probably still receive a lot of attention and unwanted comments. I went recently with two other girls, and we were perpetually incensed by yet another unpleasant comment or general lack of respect we were shown. You definitely need thick skin, or if you really don’t want to face it, it’s best to travel with male companions (I went with a boyfriend on my first visit, and received far less attention).
How To Dress
It’s a very touristy city so whilst the local women dress conservatively, they’re fairly used to seeing Western dress. Therefore you don’t need to be completely covered – I’d recommend packing knee length and below garments, and covering shoulders with a light shawl. However there were tourists in shorts and tank tops, and I did wear a couple of strappier dresses for dinners out and didn’t get any more attention than I was receiving previously (honestly, they’ll stare either way!).
Shopping!
Haggling is the norm in the souks, which can be majorly frustrating but also so satisfying when you nab a great bargain. I usually aim for half the price they say, and if they’re not going down start walking away – they’ll usually call you back and agree to your price. However I definitely noticed on this trip that prices were far higher than previously – partially due to the sinking £, but also I suspect as they’ve received more tourists they’re able to get away with charging more.
Getting Around
Like many cities, there is a new town and an old town. The old town is the main spot for all the tourist sights, other than the Yves Saint Laurent gardens which are just outside of town. The airport is a quick taxi ride away, maybe 20 minutes from most parts of the old town. Most of the city is walkable – we only took taxis at night for safety reasons.
Other Tips
The currency in Morocco is the Dirham, which at time of writing is roughly 12 Dirham to the Pound. In Marrakech many of the people you interact with will speak English, especially in the touristy areas. French is also useful, and you’ll also hear Arabic and Berber. Sadly most UK data schemes don’t include Morocco, however wifi is fairly widespread or you can pick up a cheap local SIM.
WHERE TO STAY
A real highlight of visiting Marrakech is staying in the Riads, which are traditional houses designed around open courtyard spaces. There are so many to choose from and they’re usually beautifully designed and peaceful, giving a real taste of Moroccan life. I wouldn’t recommend the one I stayed at (we had problems with our booking), however we were able to visit the elegant Riad de Tarabel during our trip, and get a little tour.
Riad de Tarabel
In the heart of the Old Town not far from the Medina, Riad de Tarabel is nestled in a side street almost impossible to find unless you know what you’re looking for. But that’s part of it’s charm – it’s a secret oasis hidden away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
At the heart of the Riad is the courtyard, framed by tropical plants and seating areas surrounding a pool. But there’s more to explore, with tucked away lounge areas and a rooftop to relax under the Moroccan sun. What sets Tarabel apart is the distinctiveness of the decor, combining traditional touches with a pared back French aesthetic. There isn’t a hint of kitsch or pastiche; the elements of Moroccan design woven in through the architecture and furniture are subtle and elegant, paired with a clean colour palette and refined decorative details with a hint of nostalgia.
Marrakech can be loud, intense, and overwhelming, but Riad de Tarabel is a breath of fresh air within it. It’s tranquility and quiet charm make it a perfect location to refresh and recharge after a day out on the streets.
Hotel Mamounia
Whether you’re staying there or not, you’ll probably make a trip to the breathtaking Mamounia, a luxury 5-star hotel set in a former royal palace. It’s a rambling estate with several bars, restaurants, and acres of grounds including an outdoor pool. Whilst I can’t comment on the experience of staying (sadly it’s slightly outside my budget!), it’s a real Marrakech highlight and feels like into a glimpse of a different world. Take the time to stroll around the grounds and seek out the different nooks and crannies that make the hotel so special, from hidden bars to a small bakery packed with sweet treats. Plus if you’re looking for gram-worthy spots, you’ll find plenty of #InstaGold, including the Instagram famous monochrome pillars.
The Souks
You can’t really miss the souks (the main markets of Marrakech). There’s a central covered area made up of a maze of alleyways twisting through stalls selling traditional crafts, Moroccan lamps, designer fakes, and lots of beautiful crockery it’s really hard to resist (Try your best, I failed). You can easily while away hours browsing the stalls, but make sure to haggle (see: Things To Know) and don’t get conned! Also keep in mind shopkeepers can be quite agressive if you try taking pictures, several times we were told we couldn’t take photos unless we bought something.
WHAT TO DO
Marrakech is fairly small so ideal for a short mini-break as you can see most things without feeling rushed. Plus, most of the sights are grouped around the old town, making it easy to tick off your to-do list without too much travelling.
Bahia Palace
The Bahia Palace is a striking example of Moroccan architecture, featuring several grand rooms and courtyards covered in ornate tile-work. Whilst there’s no furniture and very little introduction into the history of the palace, it’s still a beautiful place to admire Moroccan craftsmanship such as the ornate detailing of painted wood ceilings and stained glass windows. Again, come early to avoid traipsing behind tour groups!
Saadian Tombs
Not necessarily a must-see but worth popping by if you’ve got time to kill, the Saadian Tombs is the resplendently decorated resting place of Sultans past. There’s plenty of the usual ornate tile-work in the traditional Moroccan style, however be prepared for queues and overcrowding.
At time of writing Medersa Ben Youssef was closed for renovation, however I went on a previous trip and can highly recommend as a wonderful example of Moroccan tile-work.
Jardin Majorelle
One of the few sights in the New Town is the Jardin Majorelle, a beautiful botanical garden previously owned by Yves Saint Laurent and housing a Museum of the late French fashion designer. It’s a fairly small complex, but well worth visiting for the striking design styles and colours on displays. I can’t comment on the range of flora and fauna as it’s not my area of expertise, but it makes for a lovely wander amongst the foliage, offering a respite from the African heat.
Top Tip: Arrive at opening to avoid the crowds (and get the best pics!)
EATING AND DRINKING
If your go-to order is a sandwich and chips, Moroccan cuisine may not be for you. It’s spicy, flavourful, and often contains unexpected ingredients such as raisins and apricots. It also tends to be heavily reliant on couscous, a traditional national grain, as well as being predominantly meat-based, although more vegetarian and vegan options are becoming available.
Drinking is still not common in Morocco, however there are certain bars and hotels which serve alcohol, although prices tend to be at a premium. If you’re looking to drink, plan ahead, and keep in mind that it won’t be cheap!
Must-try Moroccan Dishes
Tagine: Most commonly served with lamb or beef and mixed vegetables, a tagine is a traditional stew cooked in an earthenware pot.
Briouats: kind of samosa, these are fried pastries filled with meat and/or cheese. A delicious snack!
Bastilla: A pastry pie filled with saffron chicken, and covered in almonds and orange flower water. A weird mix of sweet and savoury, it’s not for everyone but definitely worth trying.
Mint Tea: I’m not generally a tea drinker, but Moroccan tea might just convert me. It’s gunpowder tea with sprigs of spearmint, and is sweet and flavoursome.
La Ferme Restaurant
One of the best meals we had on our trip was in the beautiful courtyard of La Ferme, an atmospheric spot in the centre of the Old Town. The menu is mainly traditional, but they also do pizzas and a few Asian options.
The food was really enjoyable – we went for the beef skewers and chicken rfissa (chicken served on a bed of lentils and shredded trid pastry). However the real draw is the ambience, with seating areas dotted around the space nestled between foliage. There was also live music during our meal, all of which added to the overall relaxed mood. We visited at night, however I imagine it’s a nice spot for a casual lunch during the day too. They don’t serve alcohol.
Best For: A delicious traditional meal
Comptoir Darna
Comptoir Darna is one of Marrakech's top spots for catching belly dancing, with shows every night. Part bar, part restaurant, part club, it's a fun nighttime spot to get dressed up for and enjoy a cocktail or two with a live show.
We headed to the terrace for an initial drink, which is a gorgeous spot filled with foliage and glowing lights - it feels like something out of a fairytale. Even better though was their amazing cocktail menu, full of exotic flavours and combinations. I tried a Spicy Souk, with vodka, tangerine liquor, cardamom and ginger, which (if the name didn't give it away) had a spicy kick to it and was lovely and warming. It tasted a bit like exotic Marrakech in a drink!
My friends also loved the Passion Lychee and Tango Mango which they tried - all so good! The cocktails range from 120-150 dirham, so £10-£12. Not cheap, but worth trying because they really are something special.
There's a few different dining areas, including the ground and first floor, and a terrace. I'd recommend booking in advance, and getting a table upstairs. It gets busy! The food menu has a range of local and international dishes - again, not cheap, but think of Comptoir as your fancy night out location! We shared the Kefta Tagine (pictured) and the Royal Couscous (couscous with mixed meats). Both delicious - maybe not quite worth the high price tag, but you're also paying for the atmosphere.
You can catch the belly dancers from 10pm every night, who dance amongst the tables to entertain diners. It's quite the spectacle, if a little...weird. Honestly, we felt a bit uncomfortable watching such an overtly sexualised performance, however everyone seemed to enjoy it. It's still amazing to watch though, with woman carrying trays of candles on their heads, and lots of gorgeous sparkly outfits. One to tick off the bucket list!
Best For: A big night out!
Max & Jan
We stumbled across Max & Jan when in search of a respite from the Souks, tucked away off one of the many meandering alleyways leading from the Medina. It's a concept shop and restaurant with a Western flair, paired with Moroccan design. The roof terrace is a beautiful space to relax, with cosy sofas and umbrellas to keep you shaded. We just stopped for a quick drink to refresh, but the food menu looked tasty with lots of international options (if you're getting sick of traditional cuisine!)
Best For: A laidback drink in the sun
I hope this guide proves helpful if you're planning a trip, give me a shout on Instagram if you check out any of these places! I'll also be posting an Instagram guide, with all the best photo ops from the city!
Have you been to Marrakech? Let me know your thoughts and recommendations, and make sure to subscribe for lots more guides and tips!
