Despite being half Indian and having visited the country countless times, I’d up till now never visited Jaipur, or indeed gotten further north than Mumbai. Being from the South I’m generally seduced by the lure of tranquility on the backwaters, or a week of shopping and temple hopping in Madurai, where we have a family home. However it’s somewhere I’d wanted to see and document for myself for so long, and finally made the journey just shy of my 26th birthday.
India can be a handful, and in particular its cities - crowded, hazy with pollution, scams on every corner - it’s easy to feel on edge travelling the country. For that reason I’ve always preferred to stick to what I know, the relative peace of the South and it’s nature. I expected Jaipur to be just another dirty, loud Indian city, and to an extent it was, but it was also so much more.
Known as “The Pink City”, Jaipur was redecorated in a terracotta pink hue (considered the colour of hospitality) in the 1800s for Prince Albert’s visit, and has remained so ever since, alongside remnants of a regal past (though there is still a Maharaja, the title is more unofficial now). There’s City Palace, filled with lavishly adorned rooms and the famous four doors inspired by the different seasons, the iconic structure of the definitive example of Jaipur’s “pinkness” Hawa Mahal, alongside plenty more to keep the average tourist occupied for several days.
Getting There
I flew into Delhi and took an internal flight to Jaipur, which takes just under an hour, however there are plenty of options from the Capital including train and bus (if you can handle 4 hours of Indian driving!). You can also fly to Jaipur from the UK, though generally not direct. If you’re particularly strapped for time there are also day trip options from Delhi.
What to wear
India is a fairly conservative country in terms of dress, particularly as the north has a large Muslim population, so I’d recommend covering shoulders and knees as much as possible. On my trip I’d generally keep a shawl on me to stay covered (which I whipped off for photos!). However there aren’t generally dress codes for sights so you can technically wear whatever you want - just keep in mind you’ll be stared at a lot!
I opted for loose midi/maxi dresses and skirts, and light printed trousers are also a good bet. The locals will probably be in jeans, but I don’t have a clue how they do it in the heat - I guess they’re acclimatised!
Getting Around
It’s easy enough to hail Autos for short journeys, however be wary of scammers who’ll try to charge you three times the going rate. To circumvent this, it’s more convenient to use Uber or Ola (basically Indian Uber), as prices are set (though may change slightly depending on distance), and you don’t have to try and explain where you’re going (which can be challenging with limited Hindi and a driver’s limited English!).
Where to Stay
Alsisar Haveli
I stumbled upon Alsisar Haveli on Instagram whilst researching Jaipur and just knew I had to stay there. An elegant heritage hotel in the midst of the city, Alsisar Haveli was originally a nobleman's townhouse and feels fit for a Maharaja, with opulent drawing rooms and a wide open patio space lined with painted arches. It feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of the streets - in fact if it weren't for the car horns you could easily forget where you were. There's a pool for days when you want a break from exploring, which is all too tempting when the hotel is just as beautiful as the sights of the city. But if you do want to head out, it's just a ten minute drive from main sights such as City Palace and Hawa Mahal.
The rooms are ample, decorated in a pared back but distinctly Indian style, with family photos lining the walls. It's a great nights sleep too, a rare find in India, with good air con, comfortable beds, and rooms far back from the noise of the roads. We had a light lunch on a first afternoon which was a mix of Indian snacks and international options - the chicken burger was a surprising revelation, and the chilli cheese toast is a reliable winner. Breakfast is equally solid, with waffles and omelettes on demand alongside Indian and Western options. You can't quite get a Full English, but this is India! Price wise it's mid range (we paid around £67 a night), but definitely very affordable for the opportunity to stay somewhere so unique and full of character.
(Two nights of my stay were complimentary, but all views my own)
Things to Do
Jaipur City Palace
Probably my favourite place in all of Jaipur, and the one I most anticipated, was City Palace. It’s an absolute visual feast from start to finish, with each room more lavishly decorated than the last (oh, and it’s an absolute dream for Instagram, I challenge you to find a corner that’s not photogenic!).
There’s various different options for visiting: the basic ticket price is 700 rupees for foreigners however as far as I can tell just included the main grounds and a few other bits. We forked out on the full private tour (it’s 3500 for tourists, 3000 for Indians, so not cheap!), as we really wanted to see the famous blue room (above).
I’m usually not a fan of a guided tour but it was so worth it to see the full rooms and have them relatively quiet, and the guide was the right amount of knowledgable but not boring (though he was keen to try and sell us pashminas, but this is India!). They’re also really good at putting up with extensive photo taking, and even offering to take pics - our guide knew how to take a great Boomerang, and all the good photo ops!
Hawa Mahal
I’ll admit I didn’t actually visit the inside of Hawa Mahal, but either way it’s a must-see for it’s distinctive pink-hued interior, the ultimate Jaipur scene that makes the cover of guide books and every travel blogger’s feed. But with good reason - it’s distinctive architecture, designed with 953 outer windows to allow the breeze to blow through the building, is really like nowhere else. Supposedly the building was designed in such a way as the Royal ladies were not allowed to be seen, but from here could watch the streets without being spotted. Get the best views by visiting one of the rooftop cafes opposite - you’ll get hoarded into one of the shops or expected to buy a drink, but it’s a great spot to see the building at it’s best.
Amer Fort
On the outskirts of Jaipur resides the small town of Amer, home to the beautiful Amer Fort (also known as the Amber Palace, don’t ask me why). Perched dramatically atop the hills overlooking the city, it's a fascinating visit for its opulent architectural style, with many impressive rooms and courtyards composing the structure. I'll let my photos do the talking - I certainly took enough!
Though it attracts plenty of tourists (get there at opening for decent photos!), it's big enough to explore without feeling claustrophobic. There's not a huge amount in terms of information available on site, so it's one attraction that might well be worth forking out on a guide for if you're interested in learning more about the history of the Fort.
Patrika Gate
Possibly one of my favourite sights in Jaipur was visited last minute, bleary-eyed on our way to the airport. The beautiful Patrika Gate is a rather surprising structure to find plonked next to an airport (though presumably it was built first, so I suppose the airport was the one that was plonked...), but nonetheless it's absolutely worth the slightly out of the way journey. Painted in the city's signature pink hue, the gate is striking from first glance, but take a look inside for a line of symmetrical multicoloured pastel arches, intricately detailed with floral prints and countryside scenes. It's free, open 24 hours, and seems to serve primely as a photography spot (so get there early for empty snaps!).
Royal Gaitor
The Royal Gaitor cenotaphs are a cluster of monuments erected to honour several Maharajas. The monuments are an intricate network of domes and turrets carved out of stone. Located under Nahargarh Fort, it's a peaceful complex that attracts fewer visitors than the other Jaipur sights, but which makes it arguably more pleasant to visit. On the outskirts of the city it's convenient to visit en route to Amer.
Eating and Drinking in Jaipur
Caffé Palladio
I love a cafe that gives good Instagram (I mean duh it’s literally my feed bread and butter), so Caffé Palladio was an absolute must on my Jaipur list. I don’t really feel it needs much explaining, but in case you can’t see the appeal from my photos (I should resign as an amateur photographer in that case!), the space is elegantly decorated with painted scenes in pastel hues, awash with natural light for the perfect snap. There’s also an outside courtyard for alfresco dining, plus they have a sister bar down the road called Bar Palladio done up in rich Indian blues.
The food menu largely comprises Italian cuisine and Middle Eastern mezze and tagines. We chose the former, selecting small plates of bruschetta, arancini and cheese balls.
At cafes with such an emphasis on design there’s always the fear that the food will not live up to the space, however at Caffe Palladio it more than held its own. The bruschetta tasted almost as authentic as that in Italy, heaped with fresh tomato and garlic on crispy bread, whilst the arancini offered a hefty portion of rice and oozing mozzarella that was decadent without being too greasy or overly fried. The cheese balls were a surprise, glazed with honey and unexpected shavings of marmalade for a touch of sweetness. Every bite was as good as the last though we struggled to finish it all. Oh, and for the instagrammers, the staff were very patient with photo taking and even opened a door for us when we requested it for a shot.
The Nightjar
It can be hard as a tourist to find a truly “authentic” experience. Most are packaged solely for tourist consumption, with ramped up prices and western-friendly flavours. After going to a hotly tipped rooftop restaurant the night before that ended up being fairly mediocre food and full of tourists, I wanted to find somewhere where young Jaipur dined. And it turns out, the spaces young Indians enjoy aren’t so different as those of us in the West...
Enter The Nightjar, a modern open space decked out in hanging foliage on the top floor of a hotel. The menu is a mix of Indian and international, plus they have a comprehensive cocktail menu. Best yet, we were the only tourists. It’s the kind of place one might call trendy, if using the word didn’t automatically make the object the opposite - in fact I was originally intrigued as it shares it’s name with cool speakeasy style cocktail spot Nightjar in East London.
We went for chicken tikka and tandoori prawns, followed by palak paneer and naan. The prawns were a favourite - they were packed with flavour and definitely did not hold out on the spice, whilst the paneer was decadently creamy and moreish despite our rapidly filling stomachs. We shared a panna cotta to finish, a light enough dish for when you’re horribly full but the dessert menu is just too tantalising!
Once Upon a Time at the Bagh
On the recommendation of a follower and Jaipur native my friend and I took a taxi to the outskirts of town to check out Once Upon a Time at the Bagh, lured by promising reviews and instagrammable decor. However we very nearly didn’t make it.
The restaurant is housed within a garden complex, and on entrance we were told we had to fork out 200 rupees for a ticket. We refused on principle - we had no interest in seeing the (rather limited) sights the complex had to offer, we just wanted to eat! The security guards (who were very much enjoying wielding their power) refused to let us in unless we paid for tickets - despite letting an Indian family in to go to the restaurant straight after. Luckily we were able to call the restaurant and a staff member talked to one of the guards and made him let us in.
By this point we were expecting a darn good meal for our efforts, and we were not disappointed. The restaurant space itself is beautiful, with modern Indian touches and a simple blue and white colour scheme adorning the furniture and elegant arches lining the dining area. The views are just as special, overlooking the nearby mountains (apparently it’s an amazing spot to watch the sunset!).
The food is Indian, with all the usual dishes. We went for the dahl makhani (I order it pretty much every meal, no shame it’s great), murgh malai kebab and some garlic naan. The dahl was creamy and the chicken tender, everything well cooked and well presented. What really stands out at Once Upon a Time was the staff, who were attentive and genuinely friendly and interested, and didn’t seem to mind us taking a gazillion photos from every angle!
At the end of the meal they showed us out via the back entrance and helped direct our cab driver, which was massively appreciated. Though it may have caused some initial dining drama, Once Upon a Time at the Bagh more than made up for it.
Stunning pictures! Great guide!
Did you buy the yellow dress in India? If so, where? Any shopping recommendations? Thanks!
Author
It’s from Free People :) It’s not available in the yellow anymore but there’s a bunch of other colours: https://bit.ly/3Iq730B