Ahh, fair Paree. The Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, great art, great cheese, even better wine... What's not to love? Okay, maybe don't mention the smell of the metro...
Whatever your feelings on the French capital, it's hard to deny that it has a certain charm unlike any other European city. The City of Love is full of hidden secrets from quaint cafes on the cobbled streets of Montmartre, to achingly hip cocktail bars in the 3rd.
I've been to Paris several times previously for the sights so this trip was more food focused. Hence if you're looking for a step by step look inside the Louvre, you're probably in the wrong place. But if you want to know where to tuck into a good French meal, try a bespoke cocktail, or even a great Instagram spot or two, this is the guide for you.
Where to Stay in Paris
Hotel des Grands Boulevards
In a city like Paris there’s all sorts of hotels, from plush 5 star affairs with all the trimmings, to pokey Air B&Bs up 10 flights of stairs with a bed that knocks into the bath, and everything in-between. But if you want to feel like you’re right where the action is, the beating heart of the city, you’ve got to stay at Hotel des Grands Boulevards.
Achingly cool, it’s the kind of place where hip young things flock to the restaurant space for coffee meetings and remote working, and you’ll find equally cool probably also young things propping up the bars. Yup, there’s two, and one is on the roof. Rooftop bars > normal bars. Fact.
It’s not all about the watering holes, however. There’s the rooms themselves, distinctively designed with massive beds bedecked with coloured drapes, cosy sitting areas, and their signature pastel bathrooms. I stayed in a spacious suite, with enough room to hold a dance party or practice your aerobics routine, should you require (I didn’t).
Located on the buzzy Boulevard Poissonnière, it’s also conveniently placed yards from the metro, with plenty of restaurants and bars within walking distance.
•press stay, all views my own•
Hotel des Grands Boulevards
17 Boulevard Poissonnière
75002 Paris
Le Narcisse Blanc
When you think of Paris, you think chic, you think elegance, you think classic, timeless style. Le Narcisse Blanc, a luxury 5 star hotel and spa, has all of that and more. Inspired by the life of Belle Epoque era it girl Cleo de Merode, attention to detail is prevalent throughout the lavish interiors, from the calming pink and beige colour scheme through to the sumptuous boudoir-esque suites. It's high end, but not pompous, with attentive, helpful service throughout.
There's a chic (yes, everything is very chic!) restaurant on site, which does some lovely, albeit expensive, cocktails and cakes. I didn't make it to the spa sadly so can't comment on the amenities - a reason to return?
Situated in a prime spot within walking distance from the Eiffel Tower, it's a convenient base to explore the city. The only drawback? The beds are so comfortable, you might struggle to leave!
•press stay, all views my own•
Hotel des Grands Boulevards
17 Boulevard Poissonnière
75002 Paris
L'Hotel
L'Hotel, a sumptuous boutique hotel in the chic St-Germain district, has a unique claim to fame. The hotel was the last residence of legendary writer Oscar Wilde. By all accounts the spot was rather shabbier in his day than it's current incarnation as a luxury 5 star hotel, but his memory is lavishly exploited throughout, with a suite and cocktail bar dedicated to the famed author. I stayed in the Oscar Wilde Suite, and can confirm that Oscar would approve. Dark wood panelling, ornate wallpapers and distinctly nostalgic touches make it a decadent experience, that feels a bit like stepping back in time to the debaucherous heydays of 1920s Paris.
Though compact, the hotel has decent amenities, including a small subterranean hammam pool and steam room. The cocktail bar is host to live jazz on Thursday's, which sadly I didn't get a chance to check out. The main draw, however (if the Oscar Wilde connection isn't enough, that is!), is the prime location mere minutes from The Louvre and many of the city's other major sights.
•press stay, all views my own•
L'Hotel Paris
13 Rue des Beaux Arts
75006 Paris
Things to Do in Paris
Arc de Triomphe
Built in the 1800s to commemorate those who fought in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars, the Arc de Triomphe is one of the city's most impressive and iconic monuments. Beneath the arc is the Tomb of The Unknown Soldier, burning with an eternal flame to honour the unidentified dead from the two World Wars.
The epicentre of 12 avenues, it's pretty darn busy with endless cars and coach parties, but wander round and you'll be able to find a decent spot if you want a snap, or just to view it with less crowd.s
The Museums
I’ll admit, I’ve never done the Louvre. Long queues, crowds, and overhyped (sorry Mona) art doesn’t really take my fancy. However, I do enjoy an afternoon at the Musee de’ Orsay, a museum of French art housed in an old train station. The grand Beaux-Arts building is almost as interesting as the art itself, with a vast central domed hall and stunning gold clock centrepiece. There's works by all the French greats, including a selection by Monet and Renoir. For the fashion enthusiasts, there's the Museum of Decorative Arts, which houses decorative textiles and clothing with fashion and historical exhibitions.
Explore Montmartre
Up on the hills of Paris is one of the city’s prettiest neighbourhoods, Montmartre. With cobbled streets and quaint cafes, it’s a lovely area to get lost wandering the streets, camera at the ready, or while away an afternoon sat outside a cafe in one of the charming squares. Whilst you’re in the neighbourhood, make sure to pop by the Sacre Couer for views of the city. Oh, and wear comfortable shoes - there’s a lot of steps!
The Eiffel Tower
I mean, you can’t really avoid the Eiffel Tower when in Paris, can you? The distinctive (and divisive, is it iconic or just ugly?) structure can be seen from all over the city, and is particularly spectacular when it lights up come night. I’ve never been up it myself so can’t comment on that experience, but you can easily get up close and personal from the Trocadero gardens opposite or the Pont d'lena bridge. Go early if you want to enjoy it without the usual circus of tourists, and punters trying to sell to said tourists.
Palais Royal
Just across from the Louvre in the grounds of the 17th century Palais Royal you'll find the Les Deux Plateaux, an artwork consisting of a collection of striped columns by French artist Daniel Buren. What the meaning behind the artwork is (A comment on existentialism? A searing indictment of commercialism?), I have no idea, but it makes for a fun photo op! It also makes for entertainment for tourists, watching you lose all dignity attempting to clamber up the higher pillars...
Palais Royal
8 Rue de Montpensier
75001 Paris
Pont Alexandre III
There’s something very romantic about the extravagant bridges overlooking the Seine - there must be countless movie scenes featuring star struck lovers passionately reuniting in the pouring rain on many a Paris bridge (I may have made this up, but it’s sounds legit, right?). I made a beeline to arguably the grandest of all, Pont Alexandre III. Painted duck egg blue with gold detailing, it makes a dramatic background for sunset over the Eiffel Tower.
Pont Alexandre III
75008 Paris
Palais Garnier
Paris has many beautiful buildings worthy of exploring, however my favourite is the palatial opera house Palais Garnier. Built in the 1800s, the opulently decorated venue hosts concerts by night, and by day is open to the public for tours. The main draws are the grand staircase and the impressive auditorium and foyer (pictured).
You can booked self-guided or guided tours online. The opera house is open to the public between 10 am and 5pm - I'd recommend going early to avoid the crowds.
Palais Garnier
Pl. de l'Opéra
75009 Paris
Hôtel de Soubise
Hôtel de Soubise is an 18th century Rococo mansion in the centre of Paris. It’s not a hotel as one would expect but rather a stately home, and houses the museum of national archives, with government artefacts, ancient documents, and temporary exhibitions on display. Despite it's central location it's fairly off the beaten track, making it a rare un-touristy Paris experience. One of the most striking rooms is the Salon de la Princesse, a circular chamber filled with intricate details and a striking embellished ceiling. It’s free to visit and open everyday except Tuesdays.
Hôtel de Soubise
60 Rue des Francs Bourgeois
75003 Paris
Cafes in Paris
Cafe Boheme
Our first stop, famished after an early start on the Eurostar, was the picturesque Cafe Boheme. With a “shabby chic” French farmhouse aesthetic, it’s the kind of place where taking photos of your food before you eat it is de rigour, at least judging by the wealth of perfectly filtered #foodporn snaps gracing the Instagram location tag. We chose to sit outside (thankfully kept warm with overhead heaters), under colourful patchwork lanterns complemented with an assortment of faux foliage.
Food wise, the menu is a basic selection of bowls, burgers and sandwiches. We chose the Croque Monsieur and Vegan bowl, both of which were decent, though nothing to write home about. Whether the food is worth the price is up for debate, but are you really there for the food?
Cafe Boheme
19 Boulevard Edgar Quinet
75014 Paris
Cafe Cassette
Another "for-the-gram" location, Cafe Cassette is a quirky spot in the Saint Germain district, liberally adorned with a hotch potch of floral displays. The majority of the decor is centred around a covered outdoor area which was packed out during our visit, but there's also plenty of inside seating with a slightly more refined aesthetic.
Food wise, the majority of the menu is traditional French with a few international options. I tucked into a tasty beef tartare, and the French onion soup was hearty, oozing with cheesy goodness. It's a higher price point, but a decent meal nonetheless.
Cafe Cassette
73 Rue de Rennes
75006 Paris
Cafe Hugo
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to classic Paris cafes with rows of woven chairs perfectly placed for prime people watching, ideal for whiling away an afternoon with a cuppa (or more often, a bottle of wine!). We ended up at Cafe Hugo, a cute neighbourhood spot where we warmed up with Irish coffee, hot chocolate, and a decadent Nutella and pear tart. Away from the main tourist hotspots it’s a cosy place for a pit stop to break up a busy day of exploring.
Cafe Hugo
22 Place des Vosges
75004 Paris
Restaurants in Paris
Pink Mamma
You’ve probably already seen the Insta famous Italian trattoria Pink Mamma splashed all over your feed. Lord knows I had, and my curiosity was piqued. We turned up about 15 minutes before opening (with a reservation, definitely book!) to join the queue of tourists eagerly awaiting cheesy, carb-loaded treats.
We were ferried via an art-lined staircase to the top floor, centred around a stylish teal bar and flooded with natural light. The room was packed within minutes and buzzing with Italian waiters rushing to and fro, taking orders and passing out Spritz’s.
The menu is good. The kind of menu you agonise over, having to tell the waiter “two more minutes” when you change your mind for the umpteenth time. There are all the Italian staples - pizza, pasta, as well as hefty cuts of meat, all of which look and sound like can’t-miss dishes. We eventually settled on the squash goal pizza, the truffle mushroom pasta, and the pistachio burrata.
The pizza arrived loaded with more burrata - but you can never have too much of a good thing, right? The pasta was creamy, liberally loaded with truffle, and so moreish that I kept going long after my stomach started pleading me to stop. It’s heavy food, and hefty portions - perhaps schedule in a post-meal nap to sleep it off?
Whether it’s worth the hype... I’d say so. Is it a must-do? It won’t change your life, but it’ll be a darn good full on indulgence carb-fest.
Pink Mamma
20bis Rue de Douai
75009 Paris
Andia
As you can probably tell by the hefty number of photos accompanying this review, Andia is very aesthetic. Set in a former train station, it feels a bit like stepping into the rainforest, with tropical inspired interiors and a leafy outdoor terrace. The cuisine is Latin American small plates, with a focus on seafood and sushi. We tried the prawn iron pot, tuna and truffle ceviche, Peruvian salmon roll, and the grilled octopus, all of which was decent - nothing to write home about, but decent. Realistically it's overpriced, but you're also paying for the ambience, which is well worth it.
Andia Restaurant
19 Chau. de la Muette
75016 Paris
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond
In search of an authentic Parisian experience, we found ourselves dining at Pharamond, a traditional Bouillon. Operating since 1832, the venue itself is grandiose, with a spiral staircase connecting the two Art Nouveau dining rooms lined with mirrors and floral ceramics.
For such grand surrounds you’d expect equally grand prices, but we were pleasantly surprised. A 25cl carafe of wine (about a glass and a half, the smallest you can order) comes in at a measly 4 euros, and bottles are equally affordable.
The food itself is classic French dining, no frills or flourishes but simple, wholesome dishes done well. Again, they don’t break the bank. We went for the sea bass, served with a sea of carrots, and the duck confit, loaded atop a hefty portion of mash. The side of potato gratin was piping hot, creamy, and deliciously decadent.
The kind of place that will always be popular, Pharamond is a solid Parisian staple with a hint of luxury - you can feel like a prince on the budget of a pauper!
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond
24 Rue de la Grande Truanderie
75001 Paris
Le Train Bleu
Nestled away in a corner of bustling Gare de Lyon, arguably where you'd least expect it, is the extravagant fresco adorned dining room Le Train Bleu. The high end dining restaurant feels like stepping back into an era long gone, where Hollywood Actresses might spent evenings in a haze of cigar smoke and champagne fraternising with esteemed writers and artists. I'm romanticising here - but when in Paris!
On more practical matters, Le Train Bleu serves up classic French cuisine, at steep prices. You're paying as much for the location as for the food, but well, just look at the location! I'd recommend booking in advance to guarantee a table. Should you be looking to wet your whistle before a train, there's also a bar on site.
Le Train Bleu
Pl. Louis-Armand
75012 Paris
Tran Tran Zai
When you've gorged on as many duck confit and camemberts as you possibly can, Tran Tran Zai is something a bit different. This Chinese restaurant serves up steaming bowls of spicy noodles from the Sichuan province in a small, cosy restaurant just south of the river. There's a few different variations - beef, pork, and veg, and different noodle styles - and they come in around 10-15 euros for a hefty portion.
I'm by no means a Chinese cuisine expert so can't comment on authenticity, but if you're looking for warming, wholesome Asian food that won't break the bank, this is the place. The neighbourhood it's in seemed fairly happening with several bars and restaurants nearby, so you could make an evening of it.
Tran Tran Zai
3 Rue de l'École Polytechnique
75005 Paris
Poulette
Chic bistro Poulette is could be mistaken for one of the city's many Bouillons, with similar decadent Art Nouveau interiors. However whilst the Bouillon's are no frills, basic fare, Poulette is classic, creative (and very aesthetic) French cooking. Elevated cocktails add to the experience, plus make sure to get to dessert for a delicious warm chocolate fondant.
Poulette
3 Rue Étienne Marcel
75001 Paris
Bouillon Julien
Traditional dining rooms serving classic inexpensive French cuisine, Parisian Bouillon's have been seeing a resurgence of late thanks to affordable food in grand locales. We visited Julien Bouillon, a vast brasserie from 1906 with extravagant Art Nouveau interiors, which has played host to French notables such as Edith Piaf. It's a visual feast, with a buzzing atmosphere to match, attracting an array of Parisians from all works of life, from groups of students to families, and everyone in between.
The menu is authentic French dining at good prices - we chose the salmon with oyster mushrooms and cabbage, and the rumsteak Simmental with potato. Both dishes were simple, hearty, and hit the spot, especially paired with a very reasonable glass or two of local wine.
Bouillon Julien
16 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
75010 Paris
Le Comptoir General
There are a few places I visit every time I'm in Paris, and Le Comptoir General is one of them. You'll find it in the east of the city away from the well traversed tourist trail on canal St Martin, a buzzy area with lots of great restaurants and bars. The expansive multi-purpose space is filled to the brim with knick knacks and quirky design touches. The aesthetic feels very colonial-era, from the tropical garden terrace and animal memorabilia, to the wealth of rum cocktails on the menu.
I've previously only gone for drinks, but on my most recent trip I decided to try the brunch offering at the fish restaurant. As it's largely fish based it's definitely a more unusual brunch menu, and definitely one to avoid if you're not a fish fan! But there are various options available, and at 35 euros it's pretty good value for a set brunch.
Le Comptoir General
84 Quai de Jemmapes
75010 Paris
Beefbar
I don't generally go for high end restaurants, however I had to make an exception to visit Beefbar. A steakhouse set in a historic Art Nouveau dining room, it's the kind of unique dining experience you could only find in Paris. The menu is unsurprisingly meat heavy, however I went with my dad who is vegetarian and he was very impressed with the stracciatella fatoush from the vegetarian options. I had to try the steaks they're known for, so settled on the filet-frites in a sumptuous truffle butter sauce. It's definitely on the pricier side, but not extortionate considering you're paying to dine in a slice of history!
Beefbar
5 Rue Marbeuf
75008 Paris
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte
I'll be honest, I'm suspicious of one dish restaurants. It can be gimmicky. It's also limiting. Furthermore, it's a bit egotistical to say "we do this one thing so well, it's all we're serving"! However, I'd seen so much hype for one dish restaurant Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, that I was keen to set aside my reservations and see what all the fuss was about. The iconic bistro serves only steak and frites smothered in their famous green sauce. They don't take reservations, so queuing for an hour or more is par for the course.
Did it live up to the hype? I would say so! It's good value as you get two portions of steak and fries, as well as salad, and there are dessert options. The secret sauce is so good I actually tried to recreate it at home, with little success.
There are several locations throughout the city - I visited the Rue Marbeuf location and queued for about 45 minutes for the lunch sitting.
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte
15 Rue Marbeuf
75008 Paris
Bars in Paris
Bisou
Paris unsurprisingly has an excellent bar scene, though thanks to many an early shoot morning we didn’t delve into it too deeply on this trip. However I knew I had to make a visit to Bisou, an oh so chic Parisian bar with stylish decor and even prettier cocktails. What makes it such a unique spot is that there’s no menu - tell the bartender what you like and they’ll whip you up something (don’t worry, it’ll be delicious). It doesn’t open till 6, but in Summer when it’s still bright later it looks like a lovely outdoor spot for after work drinks.
Bisou
15 Boulevard du Temple
75003 Paris
Le Comptoir General
So good, it's mentioned twice! I've already listed the fish restaurant at Le Comptoir General, but actually I'd recommend the venue first and foremost as a must-visit bar in Paris. The bar area is just as quirky as the rest of the space, with the bar itself taking the form of a life size ships hull. The vibes are part Pirates of the Caribbean, part tiki bar, but impressively manages to make it cool and not at all naff. I've been going here for years and it's become considerably more popular over time, so I'd recommend booking in advance to avoid disappointment.
Le Comptoir General
84 Quai de Jemmapes
75010 Paris
Pont Neuf certainly features in many romantic French movies.
what a wonderful tour of paris,really enjoyed your blog,great information.thank you.
Author
Thank you for the feedback, I’m so glad it’s been helpful!