I'd heard whisperings on the travel grapevine that Austin was the new cool US city. Move over New York, LA, apparently Austin was now the place to be. Of course, these sorts of things are prone to hyperbole. But my interest was piqued, and so when a work opportunity arose in Texas, I knew we had to make time to explore the city.
The Texas capital definitely has plenty to recommend itself. One of the fastest growing cities in the country, it's become a hub of tech and industry. Austin is also the self proclaimed "live music capital of The World", with strong roots in country, blues and soul. Though some may grumble that it's losing its soul, the city is undoubtedly thriving, with a bustling food, arts, and yes, live music, scene.
As to whether it's the new "cool" city? Jury's still out on that one, but it's definitely got personality in spades. There's pockets of interesting places, hip boutiques, and exciting restaurants to discover. However unlike New York, where there's something new and exciting around every corner, Austin requires you to dig a little deeper. A large urban sprawl means the commercial hubs are more spread out, with plenty of interesting neighbourhoods to be discovered if you know where to go.
We spent four nights in Austin, spread across buzzy downtown and the fringes of Hill Country. I've put together this Austin travel guide featuring my top tips for the best things to do in Austin. Though it barely scratches the surface, hopefully this guide will help influence your future Austin adventures!
Austin 101
Money and Currency: The currency is the US dollar ($). Most places take card, however a handful are cash only, so I'd recommend taking some with you. For my international readers, a reminder that tipping culture is strong in the USA - the standard is usually 20% for meals. And remember that tax gets added on top of the prices you see on menus and labels!
Getting to Austin: Austin–Bergstrom International Airport is Austin's main airport, which hosts both international and domestic airlines.
Getting around Austin: Like many Texan cities Austin is very much designed for cars, so I'd recommend hiring a car to get around. Uber and Lyft are good alternatives, although the cost can rack up. Due to the large sprawl and generally high temperatures, it's just not that feasible to get around by foot unfortunately. We headed out without our car a couple of times, and found ourselves the only people on the streets more often than not! If you'd like to take public transport, the MetroBus is affordable and runs throughout the city.
Weather in Austin: Austin's climate is generally hot and humid, with short, mild winters. During our trip in June it was mid 30s and sunny the entire time. Definitely a bit of a struggle in the midday heat, but coming from gloomy, rainy London, I won't complain!
Best Neighbourhoods to stay in Austin: If you want to be in the heart of Austin head to Downtown, for hip neighbourhood vibes look to East Austin and South Congress.
Top 5 Things to do in Austin: Wander down South Congress, see the flight of the bats at sunset, get cultured at Blanton Museum of Art, tuck into authentic Texas barbecue, and cool off in Barton Springs.
Where to Stay in Austin
Hotel Viata
If you're looking for an Austin hotel that's convenient for exploring the city, yet suitably remote to provide a respite from the hustle and bustle, Hotel Viata is just that. Sitting tall on the outskirts overlooking Texas Hill Country, you'd be forgiven for forgetting you're in the city at all. Yet it's only a short 15 or so minute drive to make it into the heart of Austin.
The hotel itself incorporates a fusion of Texas charm and Italian design influences, with a sunshine-hued courtyard that wouldn't look out of place on the Amalfi Coast. However it's the spa and pool that attract flocks of city dwellers, particularly on a sunny Austin weekend. If you're not a guest, you can purchase pool passes.
Personally, I'd recommend making time for an indulgent fine dining tasting menu with wine pairings at on-site Laurel restaurant. A lazy afternoon by the pool, followed by wining and dining into the night? Sounds like a perfect day to me!
Citizen M Downton
We booked Citizen M Downtown pretty much just because it was the only central hotel at a decent price last minute. As a chain Citizen M is a pretty safe bet, however I wasn't exactly expecting to be wowed. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The hotel is furnished in the brand's usual bold, eclectic fashion, with plenty of eye-catching details throughout the public spaces. On check-in, you have the option of selecting which room you'd like. Options include a high or low floor, and facing different streets.
The rooms themselves are fairly compact, but comfortable enough. We went for a high floor, with great views out over the nearby buildings. Everything in the room is controlled by iPad. It's a feature that felt revolutionary when it was first introduced, but isn't quite so impressive in this tech-savvy age. The bathroom is definitely on the cosy side, and honestly something I think Citizen M stumbles on. The rooms are definitely better suited to solo travellers, but as a couple it was sufficient for a couple of nights.
There's also a pool and relatively small gym on the roof. I didn't make it to the former sadly, but highly recommend a sunrise gym sesh with a view!
Things To Do in Austin
Barton Springs
There's one activity absolutely every Austinite we met told us we had to do, and it was Barton Springs. Come Summer locals flock to this natural pool in sprawling Ziker Park, to cool off in the water fed from underground springs, and catch rays on the banks. Supposedly Hollywood icon Robert Redford learned to swim here as a kid - not a bad claim to fame!
It's definitely a more rustic swimming experience, but it's all part of the charm. When we visited on a sunny Monday the pool was busy with groups of teens sunbathing, families on a day out, and tourists like ourselves taking it all in. It truly is the place to be.
On hot days it can be busy, particularly at weekends. Keep in mind that if you arrive in the middle of the day you may have a wait for car parking. The springs are open daily, and ticketed during the Summer months ($5 for residents, $9 for non-residents).
Blanton Museum of Art
The largest art museum in Austin, and one of the foremost university museums in the country, if you're looking to immerse yourself in some art and culture during your Texas trip Blanton Museum of Art is just the place for it. It hosts a range of permanent and temporary exhibitions, with focuses on contemporary American and Latin American art, and Italian Renaissance and Baroque paintings.
The museum's "hero" piece, however, is Ellsworth Kelly's "Austin", the only building ever created by the seminal artist. A domed structure with stained glass windows, it draws heavily from places of worship. The piece is designed to immerse visitors into a study of colour and form, as light through the stained glass changes the experience throughout the day.
My absolute top tip? Don't make the rookie error we did, and turn up on a Monday when it's closed. Luckily we were still able to wander up and admire the exterior of "Austin", but it was a real shame not being able to go inside and experience the full collection!
Explore South Congress
There are few neighbourhoods that exemplify the Austin experience quite like buzzy South Congress. The trendy neighbourhood hosts a plethora of dining and entertainment experiences. Shopping is at the fore, with a number of boutiques lining South Congress street. A must visit is Allen's boots (pictured), a true institution for cowboy boots. Though I found myself balking at the prices (cowboy boots are expensive!), it's a fascinating place to discover the sheer breadth of styles available.
It's a great place to base yourself in Austin, with a number of oh so aesthetic boutique hotel experiences. Austin Motel is one of the most iconic, with it's striking red signage a signature on South Austin Street. Eponymous South Congress Hotel is another stylish option - avoid the heat of the streets by cooling off at the happening rooftop pool.
A lot of Austin's best restaurants also call the neighbourhood home - I indulged in tacos and margs at Güero's Taco Bar (featured below). Home Slice and Aba are also other solid options. Austin's most famous live music venue The Continental Club can also be found in South Congress.
It's also a fairly walkable area by Austin standards, making it an ideal neighbourhood to while away an afternoon of shopping and dining. Grab an iced coffee, a slice of pizza, and discover the street art and independent brands that contribute to the city's cool factor.
The South Congress Bridge Bats
Austin's slogan is "Keep Austin Weird". Admittedly, a harder and harder challenge as the city sees an influx of commercial businesses and increased migration from California. However, one of the truly weird and wonderful Austin experiences is the South Congress Bridge bat colony. These creepy critters can be witnessed en masse during the summer months as they take flight from the bridge at dusk to start their nocturnal adventures. You can catch it from the bridge (be sure to turn up in good time for a prime spot), or take a sunset kayak tour.
Unfortunately we didn't quite manage to see the bats on this trip. I was so excited for it (big bat fan here!) however we waited till well after dark to no avail. I guess they were just extra sleepy that night! If you have better luck, let me know what you saw in the comments, I'd love to know!
Bars and Restaurants in Austin
Güero's Taco Bar
Hip South Congress is a real hub for eateries, and one of the most iconic is Güero's Taco Bar. It describes itself as "authentic Mexican with a hint of Tex-Mex" which really hits the nail on the head. The flavours are authentic, rustic, without the fancy flourishes and garnishes common on a lot of contemporary Mexican menus.
Güero's menu hosts all the hits - tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas galore. But the highlight is the extensive list of margaritas, boasting a wide range of tequilas and their pairings. I chose to go for a taco plate of two tacos for a refreshingly affordable $16.75 (Austin dining is not particularly cheap), opting for brisket and pastor fillings. The Mexican cuisine I'm used to in London is frills galore, but Güero's tasted far more authentic to genuine Mexican cuisine, with robust, strong flavours and a focus on ingredients that pack a punch. It's nothing fancy, but therein lies it's appeal. This is no frills, wholesome family dining at it's best.
Suerte
After a number of no frills Tex-Mex meals, we decided we wanted to experience an elevated Mexican dining experience. Enter Suerte, a refined Mexican restaurant in hipster East Austin. On arrival, it's very Austin. Neon signage heralds our arrival on the exterior of a stout cactus lined brick building. For a "nice" restaurant, the interiors feel a bit Ikea flatpack, but if the food delivers, I'll overlook it.
Suerte focuses on Oaxacan cuisine, and the humble masa (Latin American maize dough). Most dishes come with some sort of maize component, and tortillas abound. The menu is a little confusing - we accidentally ended up ordering a cake dish as a starter because they're weirdly listed at the beginning. Beyond that, its a range of sharing plates including tacos, tostadas, and a meat heavy section of carnitas, barbacoa and carne asada. A clear standout for us was the wagyu tacos, the most tender bites of brisket simply topped with moreish avocado. It's definitely on the pricier side, and honestly I'm not 100% sold on whether it quite justifies the price tag, but it is very, very good.
Kemuri Tatsu-Ya
When researching must-visit Austin restaurants, Kemuri Tatsu-ya was one name that just kept coming up. So obviously, I had to check it out! The buzzy East Austin spot combines Asian flavours with barbecue techniques, showcasing a mouth-watering menu of miso barbecue brisket, chashu pork belly, and bbq eel. Fusion can sometimes feel a bit forced, but Kemuri Tatsu-ya truly shows us how it's done with immense flavours that really exemplify the creativity of Austin's food scene.
LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue
Austin is chock-a-block with incredible barbecue restaurants. So much so, that it's almost a little overwhelming trying to decide where to eat! We ended up trying out LeRoy and Lewis after seeing it featured on Netflix's "Somebody Feed Phil". I love Phil, and if he's raving about it, it's gotta be good!
LeRoy and Lewis describes itself as new school barbecue with old school service. This leads to a more inventive menu that goes beyond the traditional Texas barbecue staples - think Mexican style barbacoa, and miso glazed carrots. There's also a general bar menu of burgers and sandwiches.
I'll be honest, up until this meal we'd been feeling a wee bit underwhelmed with Texas barbecue. But LeRoy and Lewis smashed it out the park, with beautifully melt in the mouth cuts of perfectly seasoned meat. We went for 2 meats and 2 sides for $23, choosing to try the sliced beef and cheeks (the Friday special) with beef fat potato chips and kimchi. Make sure to check the specials if you're looking to try anything in particular. I now want to go back on a Saturday to try the brisket and bacon ribs! Grab a cocktail or beer at the bar, and you're all sorted for a great Texas barbecue experience.
A few more barbecue suggestions, because I'm a keen bean over-organised researcher and earmarked enough barbecue restaurants in Austin for a lifetime of meals... Also a note to check opening times and plan in advance. We ended up missing up on a bunch of great restaurants because we hadn't realised most close on a Monday!
Rainey Street
Austin's most famous drinking street is undeniably 6th Street. "Dirty 6th" is the city's party district, known for rowdy bars and live music venues. However if raucous groups of bachelor parties stumbling out of bars isn't really the vibe you're looking for, Rainey Street is a great alternative. Rows of bungalows have been converted into cool cocktail bars over the years, supplemented with casual gardens hosting live music and food trucks. It's a great place to start your night or embark on a bar crawl - we particularly enjoyed happy hour at Half Step, and Lustre Pearl for darts and drinks.
I hope this Austin travel guide has inspired your Texas travels! Let me know what other things to do in Austin you'd recommend in the comments, and what other USA travel guides you'd like to see?
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