Ah, Seville. Year round sun, picturesque orange trees lining the streets, quaint tapas bars and grandiose Islamic palaces. Sounds like the perfect destination, doesn’t it? And yet Seville seems to have largely stayed off the radar, at least in the Insta-sphere, shunted in favour of it’s bigger, buzzier neighbours Barcelona and Madrid.
However, whilst it may not be as lively as Spain’s major cities, it has plenty of it’s own charm. Get lost in the quaint backstreets of the old town, marvel at the architecture of the Plaza España and the Royal Alcázar, or drink sangria with the locals at the oldest watering hole in Spain.
As a digital creative (it sounds better than ‘Instagrammer’!), every corner is a photo op. The city’s proximity and historical ties with Africa and The Middle East leaves its legacy in the form of some seriously impressive buildings and palatial homes, boasting striking tile work that gives the much-snapped hotspots of Marrakech a run for their money.
Seville's Southern location means that even in Winter you can enjoy temperatures around 20 degrees during the day. Plus it’s a great place to visit in the colder months, to enjoy a respite from the gloom of British Winter. Out of season it's fairly cheap, with flights from around £30 and good hotel rooms at a fraction of their usual price (all the more money for croquettes and cava!).
Sold? If you’re already on Skyscanner checking the next flight out, I’ve put together a Seville city guide, featuring some of my favourite places to sleep, eat, drink, and be merry. Oh, and get the best pics, of course!
Where to Stay
Corral del Rey
Tucked away on a backstreet in the heart of the old quarter is Corral del Rey, a charming boutique hotel housed in a 17th century casa Palacio. Housed within several buildings, the complex includes a cosy living room, bar and restaurant, and rooftop terrace alongside 17 individually decorated rooms.
I stayed at the hotel for three nights, and it really became a home away from home. The room was ample for two people, beautifully designed with an eye for detail (the sort of chic, understated interior I love but my maximalist eye could never put together!). The hotel beautifully incorporates traditional elements with modern touches, with sophisticated marble and stone features paired alongside colourful ikat prints. The bathroom was a highlight (big enough to sleep in, should you desire!) with plenty of amenities, a walk-in rain shower, and massive tub for a luxurious soak after a day spent pounding the pavement.
What makes Corral del Rey such a great base is it's central location, just ten minutes from major sights such as the Cathedral. You're never too far from anything - the furthest we walked was about 25 minutes to the Plaza de España, and there are plenty of shops and restaurants in the neighbourhood. The only drawback of this is that it could get quite noisy at night despite being in a quieter street, however it's worth putting up with to be so conveniently located.
Every morning we'd start the day with breakfast (available in the restaurant, your room, or on the terrace), a simple but plentiful continental spread of bread, pastries and fresh fruits to start the day. They also have a breakfast menu including staples such as eggs, however this is extra. I tried the poached eggs with avocado and jamon - delicious, and worth paying a bit more for!
At night there's a turn down service, sprucing up the rooms for bedtime. I was particularly excited for the bespoke M&Ms that accompanied this, complete with the hotel logo - so extra, but why not? This attention to detail makes Corral del Rey such a special place to stay, from the low-key but attentive service to the lengthy list of activities available to experience.
For more information and to book visit the hotel website Corral del Rey.
Things to Do
Plaza de España
If you're planning a Seville itinerary, the first spot on your list should without a doubt be Plaza de España. The complex, housed within Parque de María Luisa, was built for the 1929 World's Fair and remains one of the city's top sights and an absolute must-see.
It's decadent, toeing the line on gaudy, but in the best possible way, with ornate tiled alcoves depicting the different provinces of Spain flanked by rust-hued towers surrounding a fountain.
Unsurprisingly, it attracts many a selfie-happy tourist and Instagrammer (myself included!), so I'd recommend coming here early to avoid the crowds. It's also particularly beautiful at the golden hour before the sun sets, which turns the bricks a stunning orange.
Casa de Pilatos
One of Seville's highlights is the number of small palatial homes that have been turned into museums and public spaces to visit. One such is Casa de Pilatos, a stunning 16th century palace open for visitors. There's plenty of beautiful design features, particularly a gorgeous open courtyard opulently decorated with floor to ceiling tile work and grand arches, as well as a lovely garden space, and it's quieter than some of the bigger sites (meaning better for snaps!). You can either view the grounds by yourself, or opt in for a guided tour of the palace interior (I just did the grounds).
Real Alcázar de Seville
Seville's other main site is the Real Alcázar, a UNESCO heritage palace and gardens which tells an interesting tale of Seville's diverse history and culture and is a beautiful space to experience. The palace has several breathtaking tiled rooms and courtyards, as well as hosting a museum collection of ancient artefacts. It's busy, and expect to queue if you haven't bought tickets in advance, but the opulent architecture and design is worth all of it.
A visit is not complete without taking a stroll around the gardens, which are large enough to feel slightly more peaceful despite the crowds inside. For Game of Thrones buffs, the view may be recognisable as the setting for Dorne (I only watched the first season so this means nothing to me, but the other tourists seemed to find it exciting!). It was a wee bit chilly in January, but would be stunning in the Spring and Summer months when the flowers are in bloom.
Palacio de Lebrija
Similar to Casa de Pilatos, Palacio de Lebrija is another house-museum, hosting a small collection of artefacts. However the real draw is the building itself, another example of stunning tile work synonymous with Seville's Arabic influences, alongside Moorish and Renaissance elements. It's fairly compact but still interesting for a look around if you're in the area, to take in the architecture and imagine being a member of the city's elite way back when. Can I move to Seville and live here please?
Palacio de las Dueñas
The last Palacio on my list, but by no means the least (in fact, maybe even my favourite?).
Palacio de las Dueñas is a beautiful historic home built in the 15th century. Though it's less decadently decorated then some of it's counterparts, it's a slightly bigger complex with a certain tranquility owing to less visitors (at least when I went) and a lovely garden space.
There's artefacts on display and plenty of boards listing the history, but I'd recommend it simply to sit on one of the many benches and enjoy a moment of peace (I'd like to say this is what I did, but the reality is in fact a lengthy reel of photos for the gram...).
Travelling around Spain? Check out my city guide to Barcelona!
Eating & Drinking
El Pintón
Went for the Instagrammable yellow-tiled walls, stayed for the inventive tapas menu and what was practically a bowl of sangria. Part cocktail bar, part restaurant, El Pintón is far removed from the traditional hole in the wall tapas joint. It feels fresh, dare I say cool, and could fit right in in any of the world's major cities. The space features two chic dining areas - one, the aforementioned yellow tiles, the other, an Instagram dream in pale pink with hanging plants and industrial decor.
The menu features some classics, as well as a few twists. We enjoyed a burrata salad, which was bold and flavoursome, alongside an egg dish with quinoa, and a hefty portion slathered with tomato sauce and aioli. The portions are medium rather than the usual bitesize tapas, so make for a more filling meal.
If you're a creative, a design-nerd, or just like to eat in well-decorated locations, El Pintón has to be on your Seville bucket list. And even if you're not, it's worth visiting for the food alone.
El Rinconcillo
You can't visit Seville and not check out it's oldest bar, El Rinconcillo. It's been open since 1670 - if that's not worthy of a drink to celebrate, I don't know what is!
The staff dart back and forth at speed, keeping tabs on orders by chalking numbers straight onto the countertop. They do the usual tipples, alongside a standard tapas menu. It's nothing fancy, but it attracts a crowd for the history alone. We stopped by for a quick cava and sangria, a much-needed rest stop after a long morning exploring the city.
It can be touristy, however reassuringly you'll still find locals stopping bar for a drink and some traditional tapas.
Senza
Another cocktail bar and restaurant, I happened to walk past Senza in the middle of the day and new I had to go back (which I promptly did, for dinner). It's beautifully designed, with a hanging ceiling of flora and fauna, and plenty of other decor touches that make the space unique.
The menu is modern, with a focus on pizzas and pastas, as well as contemporary international dishes offered in tapas sizes. We tried the steak, pear and blue cheese risotto, and the tuna steak, all in tapas size. The standout dish was definitely the steak, a small but juicy hunk of meat perfectly cooked, alongside a single boiled potato and a little pot of spicy tomato sauce. The risotto was mainly cheesy with a little pear as garnish, and I wasn't a huge fan of the tuna, which was a tad salty.
Though it's possibly more notable for style than it is a foodie must-visit, if you're in the area Senza is a great spot for a couple of drinks at the bar on a Friday night - and if you're feeling hungry at 2am, at least there's pizza!
Eslava
Eslava doesn't look like much. A simple tapas bar with a smarter restaurant next door, you'd be forgiven for walking straight past. It doesn't have the kitsch of a traditional place, nor the hipness of some of Seville's newer establishments. However, what it lacks in style, it more than makes up for in substance. Established as one of Seville's top eating options, Eslava boasts a thorough menu of both classic dishes and more unique options, all affordably priced.
We grabbed seats at the tapas bar for a light lunch of croquettes, grilled leeks, vegetable stew, beef tataki and their signature dish, which comprises of an egg yolk on quinoa (I know, doesn't sound like much, but after the countless pictures I'd seen of it on social media and tripadvisor, I knew I had to try it!).
Everything was simply done, but tasty. There's no fancy flavours or obscure ingredients - it's just good food. The croquettes were creamy with a crispy coating, as a good croquette should be, and both vegetable dishes were wholesome and prioritised the fresh ingredients. The egg on quinoa was perhaps a little underwhelming considering the hype, but by no means unpleasant. The dishes were pretty small, but the prices reflected that - you could easily share 5 or 6 dishes between two and still have room for dessert.
I hope this Seville city guide has been helpful if you're planning a trip. I'd love to know if you've been to Seville, and what you'd recommend! Or if you're going, let me know if you check out any of these places. If you'd like more guides, leave a comment letting me know where you'd like to see featured next!
I am going to Seville on a hen do this October and after seeing your post, I am even more excited! It looks so beautiful! Steph x
http://www.stephstyle.com
Author
Ahh you’ll have the best time, it’s so beautiful!
Amazing photographs and a pictorial write up!