If there’s one thing that is in short supply in India it is peace. I don’t say this negatively. After all, this is the most populated country in the world, to expect it feels somewhat naive. And besides, the energy that comes from being somewhere so frenetic, where people are living full, busy lives, is all part of the country’s charm.
However, arriving at Mihir Garh, an hour out of Jodhpur, is to descend from chaos into complete peace. Not to say that it is quiet - quite the opposite in fact. The air is thick with bird song - led most loudly by the chorus of peacocks that roam the grounds. There are young dogs playing, chasing after the galloping horses stabled just yards from the main house. It is an endless cacophony, and yet the most beautiful soundtrack to day to day life at Mihir.
Set against a backdrop of rural Rajasthan, Mihir Garh appears at the end of a dusty road, a fantastical sand castle rising up from the desert. One might assume that the striking fort has been around for centuries; however it was purpose built between 2007-9 by the family-owned hotel group behind nearby Rohet Garh. With just 9 suites, it's an intimate affair, with plenty of quiet corners to be discovered.
We spent one night at Mihir Garh, soaking up the tranquility and enjoying a welcome breather from the chaos of India's Northern cities. Read on to discover my Mihir Garh review, including an inside look into the property, amenities, and overall experience.
Mihir Garh Review
Mihir Garh Location
Mihir Garh is located around an hour out of Jodhpur by car. There are a couple of small villages nearby; the location is otherwise fairly remote. It's not particularly convenient by public transport - I'd recommend travelling into Jodhpur, and getting a cab from there. The journey is just over an hour from the domestic airport or train station by car. It is, however, very much worth the journey, and the relative isolation is all part of the charm.
Interiors & Character
When one thinks of Indian architecture and interiors, maximalism tends to come to mind. Grandiose arches, ornate murals depicting epic battles, intricate wood carving. However Mihir Garh, at least by Indian standards, feels decidedly minimalist. The textured sand walls of the property are largely unadorned, bar the odd cosy alcove for taking a break from the sun, or placing a tea light once the sun sets. Yet there are nods to the local culture throughout the property. The peacock teal bedspread, ikat rugs, and embroidered pillows all tell the story of Rajasthani craftsmanship, in a way that feels understated and elevated.
The property is designed to feel at one with its surroundings, with plants and lawned courtyards throughout. Much of the communal spaces are uncovered, with weaving open passageways leading to suites, and secret nooks. It feels like a bit of a maze at first, but it's all part of the fun.
Service and Amenities
I write this post having just wrapped up a month travelling around India. Therefore, I can quite comfortably tell you that when it comes to service, not all hotels are equal. In fact, we've had all sorts, from impeccable, to Fawlty-Towers level comical. Mihir Garh and it's sister properties were easily the very best we experienced. The staff offer that kind of intuitive, helpful, but unobtrusive service, that defines a really good hotel stay. For example, we wanted to shoot our breakfast on our suite terrace, and this was swiftly sorted with zero fuss. Your needs are often attended to before you've even realised you do in fact need something, and nothing seems to be too big an ask.
Mihir Garh doesn't have the usual tick boxes when it comes to amenities. There is no gym, no conference room. There's a spa (which I've only just realised whilst writing this review, so it's safe to say I'm unable to comment on it!), and of course, a pool. But there's also far more interesting services with which to occupy your time, and which make the stay far more unique. The site, for instance, hosts a stables, with a rich equestrian programme. If horse riding isn't to your fancy, there's royal picnics, shikar dinners (dining alfresco under the stars with traditional performances), or book yourself on a village safari to discover the local customs.
Suites at Mihir Garh
With just 9 suites on the whole property, Mihir Garh is the definition of intimate. There are both ground and first floor suites - the former are equipped with plunge pools, the latter with jacuzzis. Whilst the rest of the property is drenched in sand yellow, the rooms are more colourful, boasting traditional craftsmanship and design techniques throughout the furnishings. We had a private terrace with a seating area and private pool overlooking the desert landscapes. The rooms are well stocked with all the usual amenities, and the bed guarantees a luxurious night's sleep. You could quite easily spend your entire stay enjoying just the suite and not venture further afield - and judging by how briefly we saw any other guests, most did!
Dining at Mihir Garh
As Mihir Garh is so remote, we found ourselves eating all our meals at the property. But we definitely weren't complaining! The main restaurant sits overlooking the deep blue infinity pool. This in turn overlooks open fields, where you can watch a range of wildlife over the course of your meal. The a la carte menu is extensive and varied, with a focus on local dishes.
One evening, we also indulged in a private candlelit dinner on the first floor terrace. It was a truly wonderful experience - so beautiful in fact, that when we first stumbled across the setup, we assumed it was a proposal! No rings here, but we tucked into rich curries and flaky breads surrounded by flickering lights and the sounds of the desert.
Breakfast is sumptuous, with both local and international options. The fluffy, crispy puris, heaped with a lightly spiced potato masala, are a must order - I could eat them every day!
Mihir Garh Review: The Final Word
The name Mihir Garh means "fort of the sun", and when the sun sets over the property to the chorus of wildlife chirping and cawing, it's hard to imagine there is anywhere better to be. This is a stay that offers a subtle luxury that is understated and effortless, yet still standout. Nothing is flashy, nothing is gaudy, and a celebration of the local craftsmanship and culture is subtly incorporated with impeccable taste. Mihir Garh offers a tranquil rest to relieve yourself from the intensity of the cities - though you may struggle to return yourself to reality.
When reviewing hotels, my biggest deciding factor is, would I come back here? When it comes to Mihir Garh, the answer is an emphatic yes. In fact, before we'd even left, we found ourselves debating the possibility of another North India trip in the not too distant future, to stay for longer. So Mihir Garh, this is not goodbye, but rather a see you soon...
