Florence was decidedly not one of my favourite Italian cities. It's too hot, too crowded. And too full of old things I feel obliged to appreciate even though I'm overwhelmed by the aforementioned heat and crowds. That all changed when I recently spent a couple of nights back in the city. Turns out, outside the peak Summer months, when the coach parties of tourists have dispersed, it's actually not too bad. Watching the sun set on the Ponte Vecchio with my partner, I found myself finally understanding the charm of the city I had all too quickly dismissed.
Of course, a big factor in any city break stay is where you're staying. We spent two nights at Hotel Calimala, a boutique design hotel in a converted 19th century palazzo. Blending classic Florentine features with contemporary style, it offers Italian chic and charm in equal parts.
The are plenty of draws - the central location, design-led rooms, and buzzy rooftop bar and restaurant. Although situated on one of Florence's busiest thoroughfares, it's an oasis away from the hoards of tourists. From the terrace, looking out over the salmagundi of roofs and church spires, glass of chilled prosecco in hand, you could be forgiven for thinking of Florence as calm, even peaceful.
Though my experiences were largely positive, no hotel is perfect. If you're looking to book a stay, I've put together a full Hotel Calimala review.
Hotel Calimala Location
If you like to be at the heart of the action, Hotel Calimala is ideal. Situated on Via Calimala that connects the Duomo to the Ponte Vecchio, it's as central as you can get. Most of the city's sights are within easy walking distance. For a short trip like mine, it's a definite bonus being so conveniently located.
However, the area can be very busy, particularly in high season. So if the idea of being submerged in crowds the moment you step outside doesn't appeal, it might not be for you. We found it tolerable in October, but I can imagine it could be a bit overwhelming at the height of Summer!
Hotel Interiors
With interiors by British/Israeli designer Alex Meitlis of Ottolenghi restaurant fame, you know you're in for a visual treat. Hotel Calimala proves that it's more than just a prime location with artfully designed and carefully curated spaces. The design is modern yet still sympathetic to the building's traditional Florentine elements.
The bedrooms are a standout, with art deco touches such as scalloped mirrors which act as headboards. Pops of colours are calculated, from the green-tiled bathrooms to the pink hued wardrobes, which house the in-room coffee machine. Around the hotel, modern art from local artists line the walls.
Around the Hotel
Facilities are fairly minimal, but ample for a city-centre hotel. There's a gym which I didn't get around to trying out - I was too busy stuffing my face with pasta at every opportunity! One unique feature is the third floor common spaces, with armchairs facing a projector which screens black and white films. Great for a rainy day!
Though there are no spa facilities, if you're looking to unwind after a busy day exploring, you can book an in-room massage. There is also a plunge pool, although the word pool feels generous. It's roughly the size of a hot tub, and honestly a bit claustrophobic blocked in by brick walls.
The real draw though, is the Angel rooftop restaurant and bar. Though it's not particularly high, it still provides panoramic views over the city - best enjoyed at sunset, which is truly something special.
Open from 6pm, the restaurant serves up a blend of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine. We ate here twice on our trip and really enjoyed everything we tried. Come in Summer to watch the sun set over Florence with a glass of Aperol in hand, and you'll be hard pressed not to fall in love with the city.
You can also enjoy breakfast on the roof, from a decently stocked buffet. I'd like to give you more of a review, but honestly by the time I'd taken a bajillion photos everything was cold, so I can't really comment!
Hotel Calimala: Review
Hotel Calimala is an ideal base for exploring Florence due to it's prime spot in the centre of Florence. Particularly if it's your first trip to Florence, or a shorter stay, you'll really benefit from being in the heart of the action.
When you're not haggling in the markets or gawping at priceless art, the hotel is a great place to relax and unwind. The spaces are thoughtfully curated, with an eye for design that is ever-present but with a minimalist touch. It is, put simply, a beautiful hotel.
Though the positives far outweigh the negatives, there were a couple of small gripes. Our first night we barely slept because the room was so hot - though there is a thermometer in the room, it doesn't seem to do much and the temperature largely seems to be centrally regulated. Unfortunately, the central location becomes more of a drawback when you want to open the windows at 2am to let some air in, only to be serenaded with a drunken rendition of Lady Gaga.
The only other negative was a slight sewer smell from the lift shaft. I didn't notice this, but it bothered my partner.
All in all, Hotel Calimala is hard to beat for location, particularly for first timers and those who are keen to explore the main tourist sights. But it's also an excellent choice for design lovers, with a carefully curated aesthetic that works harmoniously with its Florentine surroundings.
Even if you're not staying at Hotel Calimala, go for the rooftop alone. On a balmy Summer night overlooking a spectacular Florence sunset, there are many places better to be.
Click to book Hotel Calimala
Let me know if you have any questions about Hotel Calimala, or Florence generally! Alternatively if you're stayed here in the past I would love to hear about your experience!
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Read More: The Venice City Break Guide
