From the hustle and bustle of the souks, to the peace of the city's many luxurious Riads, Fez is a quintessential Moroccan experience. Though it may not be so well known as it's tourist-friendly counterpart Marrakech, it's a great alternative city break destination, with just as much to do and see and convenient twice weekly Ryanair flights from London. It's small enough to visit with just a couple of days (I stayed for three nights, which was plenty), or as part of a larger tour of the country alongside the Atlas mountains and Sahara desert.
THINGS TO KNOW
Getting There
Ryanair fly to and from Fez from London Stansted on Wednesdays and Sundays - keep an eye out for cheap deals. You can also fly with other airlines if those days don't suit you, but prices may be higher. Otherwise plan to take in Fez as part of a larger itinerary - many companies offer routes as part of a group, or organise your own.
Getting Around
The Old Town is small and easily walkable - it's a car free zone so you don't have much choice! It's easy to get lost although Google Maps is *fairly* accurate - but getting lost is part of the fun! People will often offer you directions if you're looking lost, however they may expect money in return.
Fair warning: expect to get hassled. A lot. This is fairly common in Morocco however I found it particularly agressive in Fez, with men and young boys constantly trying to guide us or telling us things were closed (when they weren't) and that we were going the wrong way (when they didn't know where we were going). It's frustrating, and it can affect your experience - I know I got very frustrated with it. I'd recommend visiting with a male, and wouldn't risk travelling on my own as a female, as it can feel very intimidating.
How to Dress
Similar to my advice for Marrakech, it's best to keep covered as much as possible - if I was wearing a top or dress that revealed my shoulders I would wear a shawl, and all my dresses were calf to floor length. There were tourists in shorts and tank tops, but I don't think that's the smartest move - we were receiving abuse despite being far more covered up, so I can't imagine what it was like for them! (FYI, in some of my photos I'm wearing more revealing clothing, but would generally have just removed my scarf for the photo!).
Where to Stay
Riad Anata
We spent one night at Riad Anata, a chic but homely Riad tucked away in a quiet corner of the Old Town. Elegantly decorated with pared back design and simple touches, it's a welcome antidote to the frenzy of the souks.
Like most traditional Riads the rooms are laid out over several floors overlooking a central courtyard, and there is a laidback rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a welcome drink of Moroccan tea, as well as a filling breakfast. The staff are friendly and have plenty of advice regarding things to do in Fez, plus you can book in for a Moroccan cooking class at the Riad.
Riad Alya
We spent the rest of our stay at Riad Alya, a beautifully classic Moroccan Riad in the Old Town with a spacious traditional tiled courtyard and cosy corners for reading and relaxing. The Riad is gorgeous on the inside (I think the pictures say it all!), however what makes the experience stand out is the wonderful staff, who are so genuine and keen to help make your stay as enjoyable as possible. Honestly after some of the more unpleasant encounters out and about in the Old Town it was such a relief to come back to the Riad to feel well cared for and at home.
Food in Fez can be hit and miss (read my reviews further down), but I'd recommend booking in for the set dinner at Riad Alya, which is served on the rooftop with live music and views over the city. It's such a beautiful location and the food is hearty Moroccan cuisine at it's best.
What to See
Bou Inania Madrasa
It was such a disappointment when I visited Marrakech last, that one of it's most famous sights, the Ben Youssef Medersa, was closed for refurbishment, however Fez more than made up for it, boasting several gorgeous Madrasas open to the public. A Madrasa (as far as I can tell, Madrasa and Medersa are interchangeable...) is a religious school in Morocco, characterised by intricate tile work and large arches. If you're visiting Morocco for the architecture (and even if you aren't!), they're a must-see.
Bou Inania is one of the two main Madrasas in Fez, and it's lavish decoration is a visual feast (not to mention, great for snaps...). Unlike the bustling sights of Marrakech what makes Bou Inania particularly enjoyable is that it receives considerably fewer tourists - on the morning we visited, we had the place to ourselves for several intervals, and even at it's most crowded during that time it was easy to take pictures and explore.
Royal Palace
Unfortunately visitors aren't allowed access to the interior of Fez's Royal Palace, however the imposing grand doors alone are worth a visit for the colourful and intricate tiles - be prepared to battle it out with Chinese tour groups for a snap. A little outside the city centre, you can visit the Palace via the city's Jewish district, known for its distinctive architectural style.
Chouara Tannery
Fez is probably best known for it's tanneries, where you can gain an insight into the process of leather production, with men working over colourful vats of dye in the midst of the city. The main tannery to visit is the Chouara Tannery in the East of the Old Town, which can be a bit tricky to find, but just follow your nose (or the many, many men who will inevitably try to guide you...). Whilst the tanneries are interesting enough to see for the novelty, be prepared for the stench. It's a smelly business!
If you visit the tanneries themselves you'll get sent up stairs and pestered for money - the best way to see them is by viewing from the balcony of one of the surrounding leather shops. They'll give you a sprig of mint for the smell, and explain the process (as well as trying to encourage a purchase from you). It's less intense than being down in the pits, better for an overall view, and if you're sneaky you can slip out without being pressured into leaving with overpriced leather goods.
The Souks
The Souks are the beating heart of the city, a maze of alleyways lined with stalls selling everything from traditional artisan products and handicrafts to dubious designer knockoffs. I didn't do much shopping as I can't be bothered with haggling (and the Ryanair cabin baggage policy is stingy), however if you've got the urge to splurge you're in the right place.
Some of the best bits to look out for include local argan oil, wicker basket bags, colourful crockery, and traditional rugs and leather goods. Remember to haggle - a good rule of thumb is that something is probably only worth about a third of the quoted price!
Al-Attarine Madrasa
Al-Attarine is fairly similar to the previous mentioned Bou Inania Madrasa, so I won't go into too much detail. However when visiting you can also go upstairs to see the small dark rooms where students were able to stay, as well as views of the space from above. You probably don't need to do both Al-Attarine and Bou Inania as there's not much to differentiate them, however both are so beautiful that if you have the time you may as well!
Where to Eat
Fez Cafe
One of my favourite meals from the trip was at the gorgeous Fez Cafe, a secret garden spot that provides a moment of tranquility and respite from the bustle of the city. With a regularly changing seasonal menu, the food is fresh and innovative with both Moroccan and international options. It's on the pricier side (easily our most expensive meal in Fez), and the menu is in French so be prepared to not be quite sure what you're ordering. It's one of the few restaurants where you can order alcohol. We stopped by for lunch, however I imagine it would be very romantic for dinner as it's such a peaceful and ambient spot.
Cafe Clock
A tourist staple in the heart of the Old Town, you'll see Cafe Clock listed in pretty much every guide to the city for its cultural events (it was movie night when we visited) and maze of rooms laid out over several floors for a leisurely bite to eat. The food is not mind-blowing, however we found it was quite hard generally to find decent food at a reasonable price in Fez - the budget and mid-range dining options are quite poor, and for the most part you're better off with the home cooking in the Riads. Nonetheless Cafe Clock is a chill spot best known for it's camel burger, which I tried - it tasted like pretty much any average burger if I'm honest, but it's still a nice location to relax, and the almond milkshake is a must order!
Dar Roumana
After seeing so many rave reviews, I knew I wanted to book in for a dinner at Dar Roumana, a Riad to the North of the Old Town with a stunning rooftop terrace (and a daily set menu which changes regularly depending on what's available in the market. It's a chic fine dining spot with modern European fare (a welcome break from tagines and cous cous), and you can have either 2 or 3 courses (we shared the first and last courses, which was a decent amount of food). The prawn starter was a highlight, perfectly juicy and tender, and both the mains of duck breast and lamb were well cooked and accompanied by fresh veg. Turn up early for a cocktail on the rooftop, and catch the sunset over the city - it's pretty special.
