When it comes to old world charm, there are few destinations as alluring as Prague. The city of 100 spires (nicknamed as such due to the sheer number of church spires and towers that dominate the skyline) is rich with Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance architecture. The cobblestoned streets of the picturesque Old Town are beautifully frozen in time - just with a few more selfie stick touting tourists since the days of the Kingdom of Bohemia.
It's a particularly popular destination for festive breaks, thanks to the plethora of Christmas markets that take over many of the squares and streets of the city. In fact, Christmas in Prague is when the city is at its most atmospheric, transformed by twinkling lights and the smells of hot honey wine.
We spent 3 nights exploring the markets and sights of Prague in early December, booked as a package with Jet2Holidays. I've put together this guide to the Prague Christmas markets, with all the essential information on where to go, what to try, and what to skip. However there's plenty of things to do in Prague beyond markets. Therefore I've also included some select can't miss sights, cafes, restaurants, and experiences beyond market hopping. So if you're planning a trip for Christmas in Prague, read on...
- ad: this trip was hosted by Jet2Holidays, however as always, all words and opinions entirely my own -
Chirstmas in Prague 101
When to visit Prague
The run up to Christmas in Prague starts from around mid November, peaking in early to mid December. I'd recommend avoiding weekends if you have the flexibility, as it's considerably busier. We stayed Friday-Monday, and Monday was a lot quieter.
Getting to Prague
There are regular flights from London Stansted with Jet2, which can be booked as a package deal as part of a Jet2 Holiday. The package we chose included flights to Prague, 3 nights in a central hotel (more on that below), plus a very welcome 22kg checked baggage allowance - ideal for packing lots of thermals!
Be aware that there may be long queues at immigration - I had to queue for 2 hours on arrival! However when departing, I noticed the immigration arrivals queue was conspicuously empty, so this may have been bad luck.
To get into town from the airport, there's Uber, Bolt, or the number 59 bus.
Getting around Prague
The best way to get around Prague, somewhat surprisingly, is by tram. The tram system is comprehensive and reliable - I don’t think we ever had to wait more than about 3 or 4 minutes for one to come along. You can buy tickets on the tram with contactless card, with options for 30 minutes, 90 minutes, and 24 hours. You can also purchase a Prague Visitor Pass, which includes transport and entry to a number of major sights.
The Old Town centre itself is very walkable, with most sights within about a 30 minute radius. However be prepared for cobblestones, and at times, heavy foot traffic. For longer journeys, both Uber and Bolt operate.
What to pack for Winter in Prague
We'd prepared for the worst with our packing, with the forecast threatening temperatures around freezing, clouds and rain. Therefore our packing was plenty of thermal layers, hats, scarves, gloves, the whole getup. However it actually ended up being fairly mild, and we were even treated to a bit of sun on our last day. So I guess, fairly unhelpfully, prepare for anything? One mistake I made, however, was packing heeled boots, which were a nightmare on the cobblestones. So flats only!
Prague Outfit Inspo
Where to stay in Prague
W Prague
There are a number of Prague hotels on Jet2Holidays, however I settled on the W Prague, enticed by the grand Art Nouveau exterior that looks like it could well be the set of a Wes Anderson film. As a hotel brand, I tend to associate W with flashy, statement properties, more contemporary than nostalgic in style. However the W Prague is firmly the latter, with lavish, classically decorated interiors, sympathetic to the historic building and the city it inhabits. It is, quite simply put, a very beautiful hotel.
There are, nonetheless, several nods to the fact that this is a W property. The rooms themselves feel more modern, with colourful circular headboards the sole statement piece in a fairly toned down space. There are all the amenities you could possibly want - coffee, tea, razors, even mouthwash. There are also wireless charging stations, something I've not seen in hotels before - although I wouldn't recommend for an overnight charge, I relied on one only to miss my morning alarm as my phone hadn't charged!
We were pleasantly surprised to discover that the on-site spa is free of charge for guests, a very classy touch befitting a top tier hotel - and perfect for a post-Christmas market wind down. We booked in for two hours of relaxation, making our way round the sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and pool.
In my years of reviewing hotels I've come to learn that there are several types of spa. The wellness spa, all calming neutrals, detox teas, and mindfulness. The "girls day out" spa, where the treatments come with champagne. Then there is the W Prague spa, which is, in typically W style, quite a sexy spa. Dark walls, mood lighting, a pounding soundtrack - it could almost be a spa themed nightclub. But I don't say this to put you off, as it is nonetheless very relaxing. A particular highlight is the unique water experience, which takes you through different seasons in showers - though the icy winter shower is testing!
Location-wise, the W Prague is on one of the main strips in the city, minutes from the National Museum, and around a 10 minute walk to the heart of the Old Town. Service is faultless, with staff unobtrusive, but always on hand to help with any requests. We didn't have breakfast included as part of our package - but when you're in a city with as many excellent cafes as Prague this isn't an issue but, rather, an opportunity!
Christmas Markets in Prague
Essential info for visiting the Christmas Markets in Prague
- The markets generally open from late November to early January - for instance, the Old Town Market runs from 29.11-6.1 in 2025/6. Stalls usually open from around 10am, to 10pm, although times may vary from market to market. The markets are free to visit - you'll probably just end up spending all your money on tasty treats instead!
- In the bigger markets most stalls accept cards, however we found that some of the smaller ones were occasionally cash only, so make sure to have some to hand.
- Most markets sell a mix of food, drinks, and handicrafts, however some markets are better for certain things than others. Whilst some stalls sell genuinely unique local goods, others are more, well, tat. I've tried to include the focus of each in the full run down below. It's a great place to pick up Christmas gifts, however make sure to have a list and plan in advance, as it's easy to get swept away!
- The Christmas markets are at their busiest in the evenings and on weekends. Therefore if you have the flexibility, I'd recommend visiting during weekdays and earlier in the day. If you're not good with crowds, the Old Town Square market is particularly crowded, so aim to visit early.
- Many of the bigger markets also have a schedule of activities, including live music acts and choirs. There's usually a board detailing events and timings, so keep an eye out.
- You don't by any means need to go to *every* market in town. There's countless, and they all have fairly similar offerings. The Old Town Square market is a must to experience once, but maybe head somewhere less touristy to actually spend your money. Náměstí Míru was a personal favourite, and some of the smaller ones are very charming!
Old Town Square Christmas Market
When it comes to Prague Christmas markets, there's none more famous, or more beautiful, than the Old Town Square market. Right in the heart of the old town, its prime location, sandwiched between the astronomical clock and several churches, makes it a stunning spot for a market. It's one you're unlikely to miss, thanks to its proximity to many of the city's main sights. There's always something going on, with a stage for concerts, characters in Christmas themed fancy dress, and horses and carriages gliding past.
However thanks to this, it is easily the busiest and most touristy market. Expect long queues in peak hours for popular stalls like those selling chimney cakes and Prague ham. Personally I think this is one of the better markets for food and drink options than handicrafts, although prices may be higher than at some of the lesser known spots. But, if you're looking for something in the heart of the action, it can't be beaten.
Top tip: Head to the Astronomical Clock Tower (more on this later) to capture this epic view of the market down below.
Wenceslas Square Christmas Market
Another main Christmas market in Prague is hosted along Wenceslas Square, overlooked by the National Museum (and conveniently, mere yards from the W Prague). Christmas ornaments are big business at this market, and it also hosts a small ice skating rink, making it a popular spot with families. There's all the usual food and drink staples to be found here too. Its position, on a busy shopping street, does mean it's always rather rammed. As such, it wasn't my favourite market - but due to its prime position, chances are you'll end up here at some point!
Havelský Christmas Market
This picturesque spot in the Old Town hosts a permanent produce market throughout the year, however come December it's given a festive makeover, transforming into a small Christmas market. There is still some produce to be bought, such as fresh veggies and berries, however most of the stalls stock souvenirs and presents. It's not a "must-visit" market on the calibre of stalls alone, but its location at the foot of the Church of St. Gallen does make it a pleasant spot to swing by on your way between the Old and New Town.
Náměstí Míru Christmas Market
A little way out in the New Town behind the National Museum, I almost didn't make it to Náměstí Míru (Peace Square) market - but it ended up being one of the nicest ones. This Christmas market sits in the midst of a square with a backdrop of St Ludmila's church, and is elaborately decorated with trees and wreaths, making it one of the prettiest markets in town. It's also in my opinion the best for shopping, with a decent variety of souvenir and Christmas gift stalls. In fact, it was probably the only one that really tempted me to break my no shopping ban! If you've got the baggage allowance, there were some very lovely ceramics. Though it's still lively, its location means it has slightly more of a local, laidback vibe.
Tylovo Namesti Christmas Market
The most local market we experienced was this, on Tylovo Namesti. One of the smaller markets, it's not a particularly flashy or extravagent experience. The central boulevard of a fairly unassuming street (by Prague standards, at least) is lined with a handful of stalls, centred around a large tree. There's stalls for Christmas decorations, and plenty of food and drink options including cured meats, hot dogs, coffee and mulled wine. I somehow doubt many tourists bother to make it to this one, evidenced by the lack of English on a number of the menus. However it's just round the corner from Náměstí Míru, so worth swinging by if you're in the area. We visited by day when it was very quiet, however I imagine it picks up at night.
Náměstí Republiky Christmas Market
There are actually two Christmas markets to be found in Republic Square, bordered by the grand Municipal House and Palladium shopping centre. The section in front of the Palladium is more food and drink focussed, with plenty of seating for revellers whilst trams run round the outside. The other market section sits in front of the Museum of Communism, and focusses more on souvenirs and local goods - though there's still plenty of F&B too. It's a bit of a mixed bag - some genuinely nice things, but also a lot of stalls selling what looked like drop-shipped winter wear of dubious quality. This was one of the few markets that had special decorated plastic cups, rather than basic paper cups, if you're looking for a nice memento!
Na Kampě Square Christmas Market
Located in Prague's "Lesser Town" (Malá Strana), this small market sits on the Prague Castle side of the river, in the shadow of Charles Bridge. Despite it's fairly central location, we found it was one of the quieter market experiences, perhaps due to its diminutive size. The handful of stalls mostly sell food and drink options, and you'll spot all the usual suspects. My top tip? Grab yourself a hot honey wine or hot chocolate to keep you warm before nabbing a spot along Charles Bridge to watch the lamplighter at dusk.
Mariánské Square Christmas Market
Despite being in a fairly central Old Town location, we actually didn't discover this market until quite late into our Prague Christmas trip, thanks to a recommendation by some friends. It's not the flashiest, or most famous Christmas market in Prague, by a long stretch. Around 10 little white, fairly no frills stall, stand in a row, with some seating and a stage for live performances.
By day, it's fairly uninspiring, however at night it comes to life. We enjoyed hot wine whilst a live band performed renditions of 90s and early 00s pop punk classics. Somewhat random, but actually, a lot more fun than the usual carols!
It was also where we tried Prague ham, as unlike some of the more popular spots, the stall here had no queues. We found this to be one of the cheaper markets, with prices a fraction of what you'd pay at the Old Town Square market.
5 things to try at the Prague Christmas Markets
Chimney Cake
Chimney cake (Trdelník) is a bit of a thing in Prague. You'll see countless shops selling these tubular baked dough treats, and every market has at least one Trdelník stall. Options include chocolate, strawberry, ice cream, and all sorts of toppings. Personally I found this style over substance, but then, I don't have the biggest sweet tooth - so you'll have to try one for yourself!
Prague Ham
You'll spot large hunks of ham roasting on a spit around a number of the markets. It's usually served by the 100 grams, with some bread and a side of mustard. I find ham a fairly underwhelming meat, but the rendition we tried was remarkably juicy and well seasoned.
Wine
Mulled wine is a christmas market staple, but in Prague, you'll also find options like honey wine, cherry wine, and wine with amaretto - to name just a few! They're served hot, perfect for warming you up on a cold winter evening. If you're not a wine drinker, there's also options for mulled hot apple cider.
Dumplings
The dumplings available at the Christmas market aren't the usual Czech traditional dumplings, but look rather more like large arancini balls. There are both sweet and savoury fillings on offer - just be sure to bite carefully, or you risk molten goo going everywhere!
Potato Pancakes
Czech potato pancakes are somewhat similar to a rosti, made of shredded potato with garlic and herbs. Pair them with one of the large sausages you'll find everywhere in the markets, and you've got yourself a hearty dinner.
Things To Do in Prague
Outside of the Christmas markets, there's plenty of things to do in Prague that make it worthy city break destination in it's own right. I've rounded up a few classic sights you'd be remiss to leave off any Prague itinerary, to keep you occupied between Christmas shopping and mulled wine.
Walk Charles Bridge
The medieval Charles Bridge is an icon of Prague, connecting the Old Town and Prague Castle in dramatic fashion. Ornate statues and classical street lamps line the bridge, construction of which started in 1357 and finished in the 15th century. Chances are you'll pass it many times on your trip to Prague, as the main pathway crossing the Vltava. However I'd highly recommend getting up early to visit the bridge at sunrise, as it's usually heaving during the day. First thing in the morning it's slightly more tranquil - particularly if you want to get any snaps without 100 other people in!
In December, you'll also want to visit the bridge at sundown, at around 4-4:20pm. At this time, a lamplighter walks the bridge and lights the lamps the old fashioned way, by hand. It can get incredibly crowded, so try to get to the bridge a bit earlier to get a decent spot. We tried to get pictures to accompany this piece, but it happened so quickly and with so many crowds, it was nigh on impossible!
The Charles Bridge Towers
Once the crowds have started to pile up on Charles Bridge, I'd recommend taking in the bridge from a different vantage point, up one of the two towers that flank each shore. The Old Town Bridge Tower is the obvious one to climb - so I decided to try the Lesser Town Tower instead. The latter is actually two connected towers, one Romanesque / Renaissance, and one Gothic in style. The view looks back out over the Vltava River and Old Town beyond. I went up at around 11am and it was fairly quiet, offering some excellent 360 degree photography opportunities in the (rare) morning sun.
The steps to the top are narrow and rickety, so I wouldn't recommend it for those with mobility issues. Tickets cost 200 CZK for standard admission. However you can also get a combined ticket for both towers, coming in at 340 CZK. There's also 50% off the admission fee during the first hour of the day, an early bird offer you'll find at many sights in Prague.
Prague Castle
Now I should preface this by saying that despite having visited the city multiple times, I've never actually explored Prague Castle myself. We even wandered up on this trip, lured in by the promise of a Christmas market (turns out it was fake news), but promptly left after being greeted by heaving crowds. As much as I aim to be as thorough as possible for you, I didn't fancy the hours worth of queues snaking around every entrance!
Nonetheless, it would be remiss to write a Prague guide and not at least mention the impressive castle complex. The icon of Prague's skyline, the castle's many structures are considered the largest castle complex in the world. A number of courtyards host three main buildings - the Old Royal Palace, St Vitus Cathedral, and St George's Basilica. There's also a Royal Garden, however this isn't open in December. Another sight of note within the complex is Golden Lane, a quaint street lined with traditional, colourful houses containing exhibitions about the history of the area. Apparently Kafka briefly lived in one of the houses!
There are a number of different ticket options, more information on which can be found here.
Strahov Library
Prague has more than a hint of fantasy to it. Striking baroque architecture, a dramatic skyline of gothic spires, and plenty of historic sights that feel like they could be the setting of a Harry Potter. One of the best examples of this is Strahov Library, the library of the Premonstratensian monastery at Strahov. Set in the Lesser Town not far from the Prague Castle, it manages to be one of Prague's better kept secrets, with far smaller crowds than its famous neighbour.
The standard library ticket allows you to view two main rooms, the Baroque Theological Hall and Philosophical Hall. With floor to ceiling books, and elaborate painted frescos, both rooms are a visual feast. A basic admission ticket is 190 CZK, or a joint tour ticket (which includes the gallery and monastery) is 340 CZK. However these self-guided ticket options do not include access inside the rooms. Personally, I actually quite like this, as it means you can view the rooms without thousands of people in the way! If you'd like to visit inside the library rooms, and learn about the spaces in more depth, guided tours can be booked in advance at 890 CZK.
Klementinum Tower and Library
The Klementinum complex is one of Prague's can't miss sights, hosting a beautiful baroque library considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Founded in 1556, the Klementinum was a former Jesuit college, and from the 1700s the astronomical tower has been used to record meteorological data. Visitors can book a guided tour to explore the library (although entry to the room itself is not allowed) and tower, with views out over Prague from the top. Standard tickets are 380 CZK, and sell out well in advance, so make sure to book in advance online. We actually didn't make it on this trip, hence the lack of photos. But I've been in the past and can attest to it being a really fascinating experience, and the library truly is stunning.
The Astronomical Clock Tower
You'd be hard pressed to miss the astronomical clock, standing proud on the corner of the Old Town Square. And if by some chance you did overlook it, the sheer crowds of tourists clamouring to take photos of it from early morning to late at night would probably alert you. The astronomical clock, known as the Orloj, is actually a part of the Old Town Hall, first established in 1338. Every hour on the hour between 8am and 11pm, the 12 apostles appear in the small windows of the clock.
The clock tower itself is open for visitors between 09:00-20:00, with standard tickets costing 350 CZK. The tower is connected via steps and ramps, however there is also lift access with an additional fee. The view from the top of the clock tower is particularly popular at Christmas as it overlooks the festivities in the Old Town Square Christmas market, below. Just beware that it's rather a narrow space, and can get a bit claustrophobic.
Cafes in Prague
Kavárna Obecní dům
Prague's grand Municipal House is an impressive Art Nouveau concert hall on the corner of Republic Square. The entrance is flanked on either side by a vast restaurant and cafe, Kavarna Obecni Dum, running the length of both exterior walls. We checked out the latter one morning for breakfast, and found it a pleasantly tranquil experience compared to some of the city's other cafe hot spots. It is not the most remarkable food offering - I had a fairly average croque monsieur, and Adam's eggs benedict was good, but nothing to write home about. However it is the location itself that makes it worth visiting, with grand chandeliers and Art Nouveau design details making it quite a stunning space for a coffee. I didn't make it to dine at the restaurant, however I did have a peek in, and it's just as beautiful - if not more so! If you do get the opportunity to visit, do let me know how it is.
Cafe Savoy
Cafe Savoy is one of those institutions that will invariably pop up when researching Prague's cafe scene. Heavily influenced by Viennese cafe culture, it's a lavish space, with elaborately detailed ceilings and opulent abstract glass chandeliers.
However, its popularity does mean it's very busy, so I'd recommend booking ahead of time. I had not done so, and started seriously questioning my life choices around half an hour into queuing, when there had still been no movement, and my toes had started to go numb. Thankfully, we eventually nabbed a table, to warm our hands with much welcomed coffee and their signature hot chocolate.
The latter was entirely worth the hype, that gloriously decadent thick chocolate typical of continental Europe. It was light enough to drink the whole thing, not too sweet, and with a hint of cherry cutting through the chocolate.
The ham and gruyère croissant was also an excellent start to the day, though their almond croissant was skippable. We also tucked in to an apple strudel - a dish I became well acquainted with when exploring Vienna's cafes. It was beautifully done, light but warming with a sprinkle of cinnamon and a drizzle of cream.
I am usually not keen on having to queue for my morning coffee, but Cafe Savoy ended up being well worth it.
Cafe Letka
After an early morning start to explore the Old Town before the crowds descended, we found ourselves searching for coffee and breakfast foods. Cafe Letka, on an otherwise unassuming street mercifully away from the main tourist drag, fit the bill perfectly. We arrived at around 10:30 on a Saturday morning and the place was already full, with a short queue. We waited around 20 minutes for a table, however by the time we were seated the queue had grown significantly. So aim to arrive early!
The interiors are shabby chic, but in a way that is more chic than shabby. Large arched doors are framed by artfully peeling paint, whilst pendant lamps drape from the ceiling. It's a fairly compact space, crammed in with communal tables and diners perched in narrow window booths.
The food menu is on the short side - half a dozen or so breakfast dishes, and half a dozen or so dishes served from 15:30 onwards. But what they do, they do well. The French toast was aesthetically heaped with blueberries and a lemon crème fraiche. I am not the biggest fan of sweet breakfast dishes, but thankfully, it wasn't too sweet. The folded eggs with pickled veg are unfussy; buttery eggs with slivers of lightly pickled carrot and radish. Despite being busy, staff are friendly - and all in all, it's well worth the wait.
Restaurants in Prague
Though it can be tempting to load up on chimney cake at the Christmas Markets, Prague has an excellent dining scene that is well worth exploring. There's plenty of traditional spots serving up hearty stews, dumplings, and various assorted meats (all washed down with a pint of the local, of course). But there's also modern fare to explore, with a range of cosmopolitan international joints that will delight the foodies amongst us. Though I've barely scraped the surface of Prague's diverse culinary landscape, I've included a few favourite experiences below as a starting point for your own dining experiences.
Le Petit Beefbar au Grand Café
There's this famous restaurant in Paris that does steak frites with this signature green sauce. It's often going viral on TikTok or Instagram, and the queues are hours long. When last in Paris I fell for the hype myself and queued for the privilege. Was it worthy of its reputation? The steak is just good steak, but the green sauce was indeed, something special.
Anyway, our first night in Prague, we arrived at the W hungry and tired after braving a two hour long immigration queue. So we headed straight next door to the hotel restaurant, Le Petit Beefbar. This stylish Art Deco cafe and dining room serves up international fare, with a focus on steaks. In fact, they offer that same green sauce with their steak frites, without the fanfare and long queues. It's a far more elevated affair than the famous Parisian incarnation, served alongside elegant cocktails and a selection of street food inspired bites.
Of these, the beef croquette was a surprising standout. The filling immediately flows out on first cut, creamy and melt-in-the-mouth. A sharp wholegrain mustard on the side stops it descending into baby food territory. The steak and frites are on the small side, in fact I could have done with twice the portion of chips. But flavour-wise it can't be faulted - and that signature green sauce, I could bathe in.
At 5pm, the lights dimmed, the music rose, and the restaurant became moodily sexy. For a first night in Prague, it definitely set the tone.
Kantýna
Adam and I will often both do research before a trip - things we want to do, shoot, and most importantly, eat. We'll compare notes, and every now and then there'll be somewhere we've both tipped to be a "must do". In Prague, that was Kantýna. A modern canteen, decidedly chic in an industrial, no frills way, this cavernous restaurant is known for its meats. Think thick slabs of t-bone steak, a heaped plate of carpaccio, and thick, golden crackling on a joint of pork.
On first arrival the concept is somewhat mystifying, augmented by the crowds we were met with on a bustling Saturday night. It is somewhat survival of the fittest, hoards of tourists trying to figure out the system, and hovering like hawks by any seats around the communal tables close to finishing.
So how does it work? You receive a ticket at the till point, which can then be used to order at any of the three counters. The first is meats to order - think steaks and butchers' cuts, most served per 100gram. Then inside the main space there are two further counters - one for ready to go dishes, another for drinks.
It's one of those menus where you want to come back the next day to try all the things you’ve missed. There's so many options, countless of which sounded enticing. In fact I'd had my eye on the t-bone and carpaccio after a look at Google reviews, but both were finished - so go early to avoid disappointment! We tried the slow cooked beef from the pre-prepared counter, alongside potato pancakes, cooked vegetables, and a liver pate. The beef was a tad dry, but the pate was a hit (I usually hate pate, so this is high praise indeed).
From the meat counter to order, we went for 300 grams of pork belly. A tiny bit salty for my taste, but overall great flavour and well cooked. It’s not the very best meal you’ll eat in Prague, but it’s good, hearty fare, where the experience and atmosphere is half the fun. And at under £40 for the two of us with two beers on top, it's decent value too.
Bílá Kráva
We wanted to experience a traditional Czech meal, so found ourselves at Bílá Kráva, lured by the rustic beamed interiors and alpine-esque decorative touches. On opening the menu, we discovered that it wasn't so much Czech as French. And on receiving our plates, we discovered it wasn't so much rustic as actually rather a refined affair. The menu focuses on steaks, with a wide selection of cuts. I got the spider steak, with a blue cheese sauce and side of potato gratin. It was the cheapest cut at 399 CZK, slightly on the gristly side thanks to the high fat content, but nonetheless well cooked. I got the medium, which would be considered a medium rare in the UK!
Adam tucked into a hearty liver soup starter and a main of lamb roulade, which he thoroughly enjoyed. I'd recommend booking ahead during weekends and busier periods - we ended up eating here on a Monday at 2pm as it was the only time they had availability whilst we were in Prague!
More Christmas: The Ultimate Guide to Christmas in Vienna
This is far from an exhaustive guide to Christmas in Prague, however I hope it offers some starting points for exploring the city during the festive period. If you have any more recommendations or questions about the Prague Christmas markets, sightseeing, and dining, don't hesitate to drop them in the comments below. And above all, enjoy your Prague Christmas trip!
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