Chiang Mai is Thailand’s jewel of the North, a vibrant, culturally rich city a stones throw from the Himalayas. Though it's the biggest city in the North, it feels like a respite from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Frenetic big city life is replaced by sleepy old town streets and easy day trips out to the peace and quiet of the surrounding countryside. If you’re looking for an authentic Thai experience, it’s a must on your itinerary, from experiencing the best in Thai massage, to temple hopping round the city’s many temples, and trying Northern Thai culinary specialities such as Khao Soi. It’s not all history and heritage though. Chiang Mai also boasts plenty of quirky cafes, cool breakfast and brunch spots, and even a burgeoning vintage clothing scene to explore.
I spent a mere two nights in the city, so this guide is far from extensive. However it will hopefully provide a solid jumping off point for planning your Chiang Mai itinerary. If you have any other suggestions or recommendations, please do drop them in the comments!
Things to Know
Planning Your Trip: I’d recommend around 3-4 nights to experience everything Chiang Mai has to offer. Add an extra night or two if you plan on getting into the mountains. It’s serviced by the international airport, which is well situated within the city.
Getting Around: We rented a scooter for 250 baht a day, which was a convenient way to get around the city. The traffic can be a bit hairy, so it's not for the faint of heart! Otherwise it's easy enough to get around via local taxis in the form of open-backed red trucks, or Grab (Thai Uber).
Money: Make sure you have cash on hand as many smaller places won't take card.
Language: Most people we encountered speak rudimentary English, particularly in tourist facing roles. However it's worth learning a few basic phrases of Thai.
What to Wear: It's hot, so light, loose clothing is recommended, plus comfortable shoes. Keep in mind that modest dressing is required when visiting temples, including covering shoulders and knees.
Where to Stay in Chiang Mai
The Inside House, Chiang Mai
When compiling my guides, I always ask myself “If a friend asked me for recommendations, would this be somewhere I would suggest?”. In this instance, I have no doubt. Staying at The Inside House, a peaceful Old Town retreat inspired by a 1920s Lanna Colonial Mansion, is a truly unique and quintessentially Chiang Mai experience. It's a definite must-stay when visiting the city.
The Inside House is a visual treat for design lovers. An acute attention to detail is apparent throughout the space, from the intricate wood carvings that adorn the exterior through to the elegant courtyard space canopied by a sweeping Bodhi Tree.
I stayed in two of the hotel’s signature pool suites, the Doi Suthep suite and the Waterfall Suite. Both are luxurious, with plenty of bespoke touches that typify the Inside House experience. The Waterfall Suite (so named after the waterfall feature that makes up part of the exterior wall) is extremely spacious, boasting an outdoor bathtub and shower. The Doi Suthep suites sits on the top floor, looking out towards Doi Suthep mountain, a view best enjoyed from the glass walled private pool that runs parallel to the room. The hotel really goes the extra mile, from an extensive pillow menu to complimentary afternoon tea for guests (which can be enjoyed either in room or in the stylish courtyard restaurant). If you're not staying in a pool suite there's also a communal pool available for guests.
Located in the south of the Old Town, the hotel is an ideal base for exploring the city. It's a quiet, generally fairly unremarkable street, close by to a number of decent restaurants and sights. We were able to rent a scooter with the help of the concierge, and found most attractions easily accessible within roughly 10 minutes ride from the hotel.
Disclaimer: I was offered a complimentary night to review, however all opinions are completely my own. I also paid for one night, and would happily do so again!
Things To Do In Chiang Mai
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Chiang Mai is the city of (many, many) temples. With over 300 to explore, it’s almost impossible to visit the city and not stumble into one at some point on your trip. However, the city’s most famous temple is one you’re not so likely to just stumble across. Perched atop a mountain on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a temple complex offering dramatic views back out over the city. Though the temple itself is beautiful, the zig zagging mountain road is worth the trip in itself. It’s an invigorating half an hour by scooter, or you can hike, bike, or jump in one of the many red open truck taxis making the journey. The outer temple complex is free, although you have to buy tickets to visit the inside. Remember to dress modestly - knees and shoulders should be covered.
Wat Sri Suphan
Also known as the Silver Temple, Wat Sri Suphan eschews the usual template of copious gold and red accents that typify Thai Buddhist architecture. Instead it stands out with an equally opulent all silver scheme boasting the handicraft of the local silversmith community. The majority of the building is actually made in aluminium, with silver being reserved for the most important design details. Women aren't allowed inside, however the outside is the real star of the show anyway!
Though it's one of the oldest temples in Chiang Mai, originally built in 16th century, it's gone through many renovations. The most recent was in 2016, and as such you'll spot some unusual design details. For example we spotted a depiction of spider man lurking in one corner! It's the perfect temple to visit when you're a bit "templed out", as its less touristy and more unique than many of the other temples in the city.
Shopping in Chiang Mai
Thailand has a uniquely rich and thriving market culture, and Chiang Mai is no exception. There's a number of night markets throughout the city selling everything from fresh produce and street food to clothes and souvenirs. Unfortunately during my visit, many were shut or operating at severely reduced capacity due to the pandemic. One market which was open at the time (though at reduced capacity) selling nick nacks and clothing was the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, just to the west of the old town on Chang Khlan Road. There's plenty of stalls selling the usual elephant pants and other touristy souvenirs, but search enough and you can find some real gems, such as handmade crochet tops and jewellery.
If you're looking for something less touristy, or are just in need of some air conditioning (understandable), head to one of the modern malls scattered around the city. Central Plaza near Chiang Mai Airport is one of the biggest, hosting many major brands. I found myself whiling away a morning at Maya Lifestyle Shopping Centre, which alongside Western chains such as Mango featured a slew of market style shops selling on trend pieces at affordable prices.
Dining in Chiang Mai
Tong Tem Toh
Tong Tem Toh was our first meal in Chiang Mai, and it definitely set a high precedent to follow. A modern, industrial space in the hip Nimman neighbourhood to the west of the old town, it's laminated photo menu showcases an extensive menu of Northern Thai dishes. It has a youthful, local vibe, from the clientele to staff (shout out to the waitress who helped us park our scooter!).
We started things off with the platter of Northern appetisers, including Thai sausage, boiled egg, various veggies and dips (pictured). This was followed up by the Spicy Northern Thai Beef Salad, comprised of thin slivers of beef served in sauce. Honestly apart from a sprinkling of coriander there wasn't really any green to make up what I'd consider a salad. That said they definitely aren't wrong with the "spicy" - this had a real kick to it! In fact on the whole this was probably one of the hottest meals I had in Thailand. By the end of it my nose was streaming - and I can handle my spice!
We also ordered one of the grill dishes, a grilled pork neck smokey from the bbq. This was probably the highlight of the meal, a hefty portion served with a chilli dipping sauce (yep, more spice). It had my partner waxing lyrical about being the best dish he'd eaten on the trip (hyperbole I reckon, we'd just flown in and were veeeerry hungry!). Personally I found it a tad tough, but I do find generally meats tend to be more "done" in Thailand so maybe that's just me.
Khao Soi Loong Prakid Gard Gorm
Sure the name is a bit of a mouthful, but this neighbourhood spot doling out hearty bowls of Northen Thai signature dish Khao Soi has become a must-visit on the Chiang Mai dining scene thanks to it's feature in Netflix food show "Somebody Feed Phil". Though I'd not actually watched the show, I knew I had to try a decent Khao Soi, and Khao Soi Loong Prakid Gard Gorm came with rave reviews.
This Khao Soi spot is a no frills local establishment in an otherwise fairly nondescript part of town, run out of a rickety shack with simple plastic stools and bins overflowing with the debris from previous diners. You find yourself surrounded by piles of onions, paper napkins, it's a bit of a makeshift restaurant cum kitchen cum store cupboard!
The menu is in Thai, however the waiter spoke good English and immediately asked if we wanted Khao Soi - duh! There's choices of chicken, beef, and pork, and we decided to try the former two. This was our only Khao Soi experience in Chiang Mai so I don't have anything to compare it to, but we really enjoyed what we had. A creamy broth with a hint of sweetness and a kick of spice, the meat is served alongside noodles and topped with crispy fried noodles and cold garnishes including raw onion, pickled cabbage, and a slice of lime.
If you're a super clean freak who likes your dining experience extra sanitised, you'll probably struggle. I'll be honest, I did a bit! But if you want an authentic, local experience and a great bowl of Khao Soi, it's definitely worth leaving the old town for.
Street Food in Chiang Mai
Thailand is famous for it's street food scene, so visiting the country without tucking into your fair share of street-side eats would be sacrilege. That said, it can be a bit of a mine field. It's hard to tell which stalls will be a life changing food revelation, and which are just going to give you a dodgy tummy!
When researching food for this trip, we stumbled upon the Cowboy Hat Lady, who dishes up her famous Khao Kha Moo (a slow cooked pork dish), from a huge vat and instantly recognisable from her iconic cowboy hat - hence the nickname! She's been featured on Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown, so you know she's a big deal. Her stall Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak can be found outside the North gate entrance to the old town, where you'll find a selection of street food vendors set up. Except that when we went, there was no sign of the famous hat. So although I -think- we ordered from the right stall, I can't say for sure!
The Khao Kha Moo itself was not my favourite (I'm not the biggest fan of slow cooked meat), but my partner chowed it down and raved about it after, so I guess it was pretty good!
See You Soon
We stumbled across See You Soon on a late night dessert hunt, lured in by the fact that it was pretty much the only place that seemed to be open in the sleepy old town streets. A cafe connected to a boutique hotel and shop, it thankfully turned out to be more than adequate. If you're in the mood for a respite from Thai cuisine or just looking for a Western style breakfast, See You Soon offers up a menu of both sweet and savoury options, as well as very aesthetic drinks (I got a milkshake, but the cocktails looked great!). We tucked into a healthy stack of waffles and ice cream to satiate the sweet tooth, which went down a treat!
Day Trips from Chiang Mai
Chai Lai Orchid
After two nights in the city we headed an hour out into the mountains to spend a couple of nights at Chai Lai Orchid, an elephant camp which cares for over a dozen elephants rescued from abusive practises such as the logging industry. Tourism facing elephant activities have garnered a bad rep over the past few years, however there are no elephant shows or riding at Chai Lai. Instead, you can learn to care for and feed the elephants, or take part in day activities including trekking and visiting local temples. Chai Lai's mission statement isn't solely focussed on the elephants it cares for. It also provides work for local indigenous Karen communities, many of whom have fled Burma, and partners with Daughters Rising, a charity which aims to provide for marginalised women who have been victims of trafficking.
There are two main camps, riverside and mountainside. I stayed at the latter, in a simple wooden hut overlooking spectacular views over the surrounding mountains. However you don't have to stay at the Chai Lai, as they also offer day trips from Chiang Mai. I'd definitely recommend trying to stay for at least a night or two, as mornings having breakfast with elephants are pretty special!
Considering it's fairly remote location, Chai Lai isn't just all things elephant adventures. It also has a first rate cocktail menu (head to the bar between 4 and 5 for happy hour, where drinks are two for one!), and delicious all day food menu of Thai and Western staples. If I'm honest, I wasn't expecting much of the food here. However it ended up being some of my favourite meals from the whole trip. Presentation is at the fore but the dishes are as good as they look - definitely make sure you order the mango salsa tempura!
