Cartagena is a special sort of place. Photos, as photogenic as the city is, do not do it justice. They fail to capture the electric energy of the streets, the dense, heavy heat of the midday sun, the sunsets that can only ever really be properly appreciated in person. It's demeanour is thoroughly Caribbean, bursting with vibrant colour and music at every turn. The Old Town - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - could be the love-child of Havana and New Orleans, narrow cobbled streets and primary-hued houses overflowing with bougainvillea from balconies so captivating they could easily be the scene of a South American Romeo and Juliet. Then there is Getsemaní, the backpacker enclave lined with street art and dance all night salsa bars. If you're feeling the heat, escape to Island paradise to drink coco frio and top up your tan.
I spent four nights in Cartagena, roaming the rainbow-hued streets streets and soaking up the glorious Caribbean sun. There's not a huge number of things to do in Cartagena, as the beauty of the city itself is the main draw, but it makes up for lack of sights with an excellent dining and drinking scene. Though it's far from exhaustive, I wanted to share some of my favourite spots and experiences in this Cartagena travel guide. If you've been and have any suggestions please share them in the comments, or if you go and use this guide please do let me know, I'd love to hear your experiences!
Things to Know
Money: The currency is Colombian pesos ($). Most places take card, but it's worth having cash for smaller purchases and occasional cash only outlets.
Language: Colombians speak Spanish, and English isn't very widely spoken, so it's worth learning basic phrases. Even better if you're fluent!
Safety: Cartagena felt fairly safe and I didn't run into any issues, however like any big city be cautious and careful with your belongings.
Planning Your Trip: You could probably see Cartagena in a day, if pressed. Two would be ideal, three to four if you want to do a beach day trip. I stayed for four nights, but a lot of this was spent shooting and visiting places for this here guide! There's not a huge amount in terms of sights, the real draw is simply walking through the beautiful streets and soaking up the Caribbean vibes.
The Cartagena Travel Guide
Neighbourhood Guide
El Centro: Aka the Old Town. This is Cartagena at it's most picture postcard perfect, and where you'll likely spend most of your time. The majority of sights are in El Centro, as well as the higher end luxury hotels. Stay here if you want to be in the heart of the city, and are looking for a calmer, more traditional experience.
Getsemaní: Getsemaní is El Centro's cooler, edgier cousin. It's previously gritty reputation for crime and prostitution has been replaced by a backpacker haven with hip cafes, bars, and a lively nightlife. By day the streets are a sight in themselves - take a stroll and admire the street art and colourful buildings. It's conveniently close to El Centro, making it an ideal place to stay on a budget, or if you're looking for more of a sociable, party atmosphere.
Bocagrande: I didn't venture out to Bocagrande during my trip so can't really advise on it's merits or otherwise. You'll find more modern hotel chains here, and it's the best spot if you want to be close to the beaches, although for a real beach experience you may want to travel further afield.
Things To Do In Cartagena
Explore the Old Town
The Cartagena you read about in guide books, saw a photogenic snap of on Instagram, or whatever else it was that convinced you to book a trip? That's El Centro. The beating heart of Cartagena, this UNESCO World Heritage protected maze of 16th century colonial cobblestoned streets and picturesque brightly hued buildings is without a doubt the main reason to visit Cartagena. There's a few sights dotted throughout but the real charm is simply wandering the streets, stopping at a bustling square for a coffee or grabbing a cocktail on a rooftop, and watching the world go by.
Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
Cartagena's impressive fortress overlooking the city, Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas (try saying that ten times, fast), is probably the main traditional "sight" in the city. Built by the Spaniards in the 1600s, the towering castle is fairly barren save a few ancient tunnels, however it offers an impressive view back over the city and Caribbean. Head up for golden hour and the view as the sun sets is pretty special.
Street Art and Bar Hopping in Getsemaní
No visit to Cartagena is complete without a stroll round Getsemaní, El Centro's cooler, edgier cousin. It's a little rougher round the edges but has plenty of soul, from the brightly-hued homes to the creative street art that has taken over every spare wall. If it's photo opps you're after, several streets are canopied by bunting and umbrellas - head to Calle de la Magdalena and Calle 27 for the latter. If you'd rather not amble aimlessly you can take a street art tour which gives more background into the area. At night makeshift bars spill out onto the street, and Plaza de la Trinidad heaves with tourists and locals come night. Grab yourself a cerveza to go, pick up a snack from one of the many street food stalls, and enjoy the people watching!
Island Hop
To preface this paragraph I feel I should mention I didn't end up making it to any of the Islands or beaches in the Cartagena vicinity, however it's such an integral "thing to do" I couldn't leave it out! Cartagena has local beaches in Bocagrande, however if you're looking for more of a paradise Island experience (obviously you are), you can take a day trip via boat to one of the many nearby beach spots, including The Rosario Islands, and Isla Baru. If one day just isn't enough (obviously it isn't), you can also stay overnight. This is definitely on my bucket list next time I'm in Cartagena!
Restaurants in Cartagena
Restaurante Alma
Looking for a respite from the sticky Cartagena heat, we found ourselves one lunchtime stumbling upon the tranquil oasis that is the courtyard of Restaurante Alma. The in-house restaurant of upmarket hotel Casa San Augustin, Alma is the sort of quietly chic spot you'd imagine A-list celebrities trying to stay under the radar might dine at whilst holidaying in Cartagena (they really should, would recommend). The aesthetic is a sort of modern colonial meets Moroccan riad, with umbrella-shaded tables surrounding a small water feature, and plants dotted throughout.
The menu is extensive but not overwhelming, with hot starters, cold starters, meat, seafood, and even a vegan section (the latter is limited, but still better than most in Colombia!). I went for the ceviche with octopus and shrimp, a must when in Cartagena, which was delightfully fresh and not overly tart. The cocktail menu is worth a peruse - mine was an intriguing mix of rum, jalapeño, cinnamon and jam (yes, jam!). It definitely had a kick to it, and weird as it sounds it really worked. Make sure to save space for dessert, which includes some unique options - we went for the Colombian chocolate cake and local cheese and yucca cake, which was liberally doused in a pipette of rum. Anything rum is good in my eyes!
Alma is definitely on the pricier side for Cartagena (mines come in at around £10-£15), but you'd easily be paying twice that was equivalent quality food in London, so I had no complaints!
Caffé Lunático
A decent breakfast / brunch in Cartagena is surprisingly hard to find, as many restaurants don't open till past noon. Desperately hungry one morning we found ourselves on the outskirts of Getsemaní at Caffé Lunático. Set away from the buzz of the city on a sleepy street, you could easily miss it, but it's worth seeking out. An airy upstairs space houses a restaurant as well as offering cooking classes, and serves up breakfast by day and cocktails and tapas come evening. I tucked into an egg and bacon bun, the perfect morning pick me up to fuel a day of exploring. It's a good spot for vegetarians too, with several veggie breakfast options.
Cuba 1940
Due to it's prime location looking out over the Caribbean sea, Cartagena is host to a range of restaurants boasting cuisines hailing from the Caribbean Islands and further afield. Head to one of Cartagena's most picturesque streets, bougainvillea strewn Calle 38, and you'll spot the Cuban flag flying proudly outside the bold blue exterior of Cuban restaurant Cuba 1940. Inside is simple and homey, with heavy wood chairs and brick arches that would not feel out of place in an Italian trattoria. Slightly oddly, the decor even includes a small swimming pool, perhaps to offer a spot of refreshment on more raucous nights. The real highlight though, is the stage just beyond, from which live acts perform nightly.
The menu is typically Cuban - expect plenty of rice, beans, plantains and pork. I opted for a pork belly dish in an unusual passionfruit sauce, the subtle sweetness adding a depth and richness of flavour that worked surprisingly well. If you like mojitos, you're in the right place - work your way through a mojito menu that includes lychee and passionfruit flavours (yes I tried both!). Cartagena shares a certain Caribbean charm with Havana, and with dinner and dancing at Cuba 1940 you could well be transported there for the night.
Maria Bonita Taqueria
Okay I know flower walls are a bit circa 2017, but if you can get past that Maria Bonita Taqueria should be on your Cartagena list. The artsy Mexican restaurant can be found in a prime location off the main square in Getsemaní, serving up an extensive list of tacos and light bites, including decent vegetarian choices, a rare occurrence in Colombia. Nab one of the sequin-encrusted courtyard tables which is kept mercifully cool with fans. They do a mean passionfruit mojito, which works nicely to take the heat off the breaded stuffed jalapeños we ordered to start. Out of the tacos I narrowed it down to the conchita pibil, which faithfully transported me back to the street tacos in Mexico. If you're getting a bit sick of traditional Colombian cuisine, this is the perfect spot for a breather.
Carmen
Carmen is a fairly well known name in Colombian dining, with a renowned sister restaurant in Medellin. The Cartagena branch is housed in an elegant space with palm tree lined outdoor courtyard dining. Things started off strong with a complimentary amuse bouche of warming potato soup topped with slow cooked beef, a promising indication of things to come. For mains I went for the Colombian beef brisket, served atop of a bed of decadently creamy potato puree. Dishes are unique and vibrant, with unusual flavour combinations aesthetically presented. Alongside a la carte you can also book to experience a 7 or 11 course tasting menu, with optional wine pairing. Definitely on my to-do list next time I'm in Cartagena! Carmen gets busy, particularly at evenings, so booking ahead is recommended.
Il Caffè Di Silvio
Whilst most of Cartagena meals were carefully researched and planned in advance (yes, I'm that kind of traveller), Il Caffè Di Silvio was a lucky find whilst exploring Getsemaní one morning, hungry. It's one of the few spots open early and serving breakfast, with a menu of breakfast staples as well as Italian piadinas to see you through the day. The main space is cute, if twee, but head out back to a rustic, quiet courtyard decorated with vintage travel posters. Breakfast choices include egg frittata with a choice of fillings, which is small but surprisingly filling, and waffles with fruit.
Bars and Nightlife in Cartagena
Movich Hotel Rooftop
Come sunset, and the city flocks to the rooftops. And if Cartagena is a city of rooftops, the Movich Hotel's is the rooftop to see and be seen on. Jostle with tourists and locals alike to get that perfect gram snap of prime views of the Old Town all the way to Bocagrande and the Caribbean shimmering under the golden hour glow.
Unsurprisingly drinks are on the pricier side, but staff are friendly and unstuffy, and it's worth it to soak up the unparalleled panorama of Cartagena from above. Get here early for a prime spot - it gets busy.
Alquimico
Another rooftop, but also, so much more. Alquimico is a hip multi-level bar and restaurant, and a must-do if you're looking for a chic drink spot in the city.
The first two floors could be something out of the speakeasy era, dimly lit and hidden from the eyes of the street. Stumble up several flights of stairs to find yourself on the rooftop, decked out aesthetically in festoon lights and multi-coloured steel furniture.
There's a complex cocktail menu, thankfully with an English translation, and they also do a decent menu of ceviches, burgers, and tacos.
I hope this Cartagena travel guide has been helpful for planning your Colombian adventures. If you're been, and have any more suggestions for things to do in Cartagena, please feel free to pop them in the comments!
Great write up and amazing pictures!