Cambodia's bustling capital city of Phnom Penh is awash with different interesting neighbourhoods, and within them a plethora of accommodation options to suit every budget. So much so, that narrowing down where to stay can be a difficult task!
On my visit to Phnom Penh, I stayed across two central boutique hotels: The Pavilion, and Penh House. Long time readers will know that my very favourite stays are those with character and charm, that capture the essence of the destination I'm visiting. Oh, and a good pool. Particularly in Phnom Penh, which is pretty darn hot under the midday sun, it's a must! Both properties had these elements in spades, but each with its own distinct aesthetic and atmosphere.
If you're currently deciding where to stay in Phnom Penh and need some inspiration, read on for my reviews of The Pavilion and Penh House.
Where to Stay in Phnom Penh: The Pavilion Review
The Pavilion Hotel in Phnom Penh is a quintessential heritage stay. The original property dates back to the 1920s, and these roots are still evident in the architecture and interiors. Since opening, it's expanded to consume multiple neighbouring villas, each with their own unique aesthetic. One used to be the private residence of a Cambodian senator, another, lodgings for diplomats.
The main "lush" pool is the visual centrepiece, framed by dense foliage and delicate parasols shading the restaurant. By midday in Phnom Penh the pavements are positively emanating thick, heavy heat, at which time it's ideal to retreat to said pool. Alternatively, the "sun" pool towards the back of the property hosts a number of loungers to soak up the rays, or seek refuge with a book under the palms. The latter offers complimentary teas, coffees, water, and cookies to help aid your lounging.
The Pavilion Location
When deciding where to stay in Phnom Penh neighbourhood-wise, there's plenty of options. Bustling Riverside, historic Doun Penh, expat-friendly BKK1, and the hip Russian Market are all lively areas in which to base yourself.
For first time visitors to the city like us, the location for Pavilion House in Doun Penh could not be more ideal. Tucked away on a fairly quiet road, it is surprisingly tranquil, a world away from the sounds of the streets. Yet, sights such as the Royal Palace and National Museum are within a short walk, as are plenty of cafe and restaurant options. Or, if you don’t fancy braving the city’s intense heat, there’s usually a tuk tuk driver parked outside.
The Pavilion's Design & Architecture
The French-Khmer designed Pavilion is a treasure trove for guests with an interest in history and eye for design. The main villa, which hosts the reception, was believed to have been built by the Queen Consort Kossamak as a private residence. If it’s fit for a queen! We arrived by night, to see the main courtyard, hosting a pool and the restaurant, romantically lit by fairy lights climbing through the trees and shimmering on the surface of the pool. It felt incredibly serene, a magical hideaway from the city.
The property is hosted across a number of interconnected villas, carefully restored to respect the heritage of the spaces. Alongside traditional pieces, there’s plenty of art to discover throughout. Delicately embroidered peacocks frolic through colourful tapestries, contrasted by boldly abstract modern art pieces. The rooms themselves are furnished with restraint, allowing the striking mosquito-net cladd four poster bed to take centre stage. I'm a huge fan of heritage spaces that remain true to the era and architecture, and was impressed by how tastefully and thoughtfully the spaces are decorated.
Service and Amenities at The Pavilion
The staff at The Pavilion are very sweet and friendly, always with a smile and happy to help out with any queries. That said, we actually didn't find we needed much assistance during our stay. The hotel is so well placed and stocked for any needs, all bases were covered!
We indulged in booking into the spa at The Pavilion for an hour long massage each. The spa is a compact, cosy space off the lush pool, with just a couple of treatment rooms. I'm not entirely sure what type of massage I had, but I can tell you it was very relaxing. The perfect way to indulge after a day of exploring. If you're looking for a deep massage, it might not be for you - but never fear, because Penh House, review below, has you covered!
There's also a gym on site, however despite insisting we'd go, we somehow never quite made it... One day, I promise I will actually review a hotel gym. But alas, today is not that day.
Dining at The Pavilion
The restaurant is open all day, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner till 10pm. Breakfast is a la carte from 7-10am, a varied selection of light bites, Western, and Cambodian dishes. The Eggs Benedict were a personal favourite, though portions are on the small side. Fine for me, but if you're a person of a larger appetite like Adam, I'd order a few dishes.
We also visited the restaurant for lunch (pictured). It was our first experience of traditional Cambodian food, a cuisine I'll admit I previously knew very little of. We tried fresh vegetable spring rolls and beef lok lak, a stir fried beef dish. It was all very light, fresh, and flavourful. The restaurant is particularly picturesque at night, so I'd definitely consider booking in for an atmospheric evening meal amidst the fairy lights.
Where to stay in Phnom Penh: Penh House Review
We spent our final night in Phnom Penh at Penh House, a sister property to The Pavilion. Where The Pavilion resides in a colonial-era complex, Penh House could not be more opposite. The building it occupies is inspired by Khmer modernist architecture, with a distinctly brutalist, 60s feel - and just a hint of Art Deco. The sharp angles are softened by liberally planted lush green foliage adorning the exterior and interior spaces.
The provenance of the hotel makes it all the more interesting - the owner, a pharmacist, also owns a brand of organic local products. These have their own space in the hotel lobby, and within the menu at the rooftop restaurant. Sustainability, green living, and championing local culture are common themes throughout the property, such as a dedicated menu of dishes including "Prahok", a Cambodian fermented fish paste.
In the early evening, you'll find most guests have found their way to the rooftop, hosting the pool and restaurant. Though the building is far from a skyscraper, it's one of the taller properties in the historic district. Its unique position boasts 360 degree views around the neighbourhood, overlooking a mix of pointed temple roofs and modern tower blocks.
Penh House Location
Similarly to The Pavilion, Penh House is situated within the main historic district - in fact, it's mere minutes around the corner. You'll find it on one of central Phnom Penh’s nicest roads, Street 240. There are a number of hip coffee shops and boutiques along this thoroughfare, but it’s still pleasantly quiet.
Rooms at Penh House
Our room at Penh House was incredibly spacious - it could probably host a whole family! The decor is simple, but very purposeful, complimenting the overall aesthetic of the property. Green and botanical accents adorn the soft furnishings, whilst the furniture itself has a mid-century, minimalist feel. There’s a small balcony, dappled in soft light and overlooking a canopy of green.
The bathroom is equally large, with a wide sink and even a tub. The shower is wet-room style. Normally, I’m not a fan of a wet room (soggy socks whenever you go to the bathroom is not fun imo), however in this instance it’s secluded enough a space not to be an issue. It may seem a simple thing, but after a string of budget homestays with the bare minimum, we were very excited to see conditioner!
Amenities-wise, you’re generally well stocked: tea, coffees, waters, even a fancy nespresso machine (I don’t know about you, but I love starting my morning with a fancy pod coffee!).
Services and Amenities at Penh House
If there's one reason to book Penh House, it's the pool. Rooftop pools are by no means a unique concept, but Penh House's location in the heart of Phnom Penh's historic district gives the infinity pool a truly unique view. It's a luxurious spot for a lounge, and the ideal place to watch the sun set. There's also a gym, but let's be honest, with only one night to experience the property, the pool was my priority!
Penh House also hosts a small spa, with a range of different massage treatments available. I opted to try the Khmer Massage - when in Cambodia! I went into it with absolutely no idea what to expect. Turns out, it’s a dry massage and you’re given a basic taupe cotton two piece to wear. And it’s a bit of a pummelling! This isn’t your “fall asleep on the table” relaxing massage, but really works out the kinks and gives your muscles a good kneading. At one point I found my legs akimbo whilst the massage therapist used her feet to ply my back. Adam on the other hand, went for a deep tissue massage. Out of the two of us he’s the real massage connoisseur (the boy loves a massage!) and is a fan of particularly deep, strong massages. He came out singing the praises of his therapist.
Dining at Penh House
The rooftop bar and restaurant at Penh House offers a truly extensive and varied menu of bites, drinks, and meals. So much so, that you could eat here for a week straight and not get bored! Two unique menus highlight dishes created using prahok, including a dedicated prahok pizza menu. Then there's the main menu, with a range of Cambodian and Western dishes, from curries to club sandwiches. It also has a selection of tapas dishes, which we went for, alongside some starters - because small plates lets us try more things!
We gorged on croquettes, marinated red tuna, spring rolls and Khmer beef skewers. Everything was light, fresh, and beautifully presented. I also chose the prahok eggplant off the dedicated menu. I have to admit, it wasn't quite for me, but I'm not a huge fan of fishy flavours. Definitely worth trying nonetheless - if you do, let me know how you get on!
Unfortunately we had an early train to Sihanoukville the next morning, so weren't going to make breakfast. However the staff kindly put together a breakfast box for us, which we tucked into on the train. With fruit, pastries, bread and jams, it was a real treat!
The Final Word: The Pavilion and Penh House Review
When it comes to choosing where to stay, I usually go down one of two routes. A stay that encapsulates the essence of the destination, or rather, a stay that is a retreat from it. In Phnom Penh, Pavilion House and Penh House managed to be both. Whilst the streets are a cacophony of noises, sights, smells, the two hotels are a true respite.
The Pavilion has the unique charm of a property steeped in history, with more than a touch of nostalgia to satisfy history buffs and aesthetes alike. Stylistically, Penh House refers to more mid-century aesthetics, drawing on the New Khmer Architecture movement of the 50s and 60s for inspiration. The Pavilion is a tranquil heritage retreat, while Penh House has the cool factor of a sleek, modern stay.
At both, the unique draw is the pool - Pavilion's shady lush pool, and Penh House's 360 rooftop view infinity pool. They were the perfect places to see out the afternoon heat in Phnom Penh, in style. But there's plenty more besides, with a whole host of amenities and services offering a complete luxury stay.
Overall the two stays offer different sides to Phnom Penh and Cambodian culture, but both boasting exceptional service and experiences. As to which was my favourite? Honestly, it's too close to call! When it comes to where to stay in Phnom Penh, you really can't go wrong with either.
