Where to start with Sri Lanka? Awe-inspiring landscapes, ancient temple ruins, chill surf beaches and charming colonial fort towns. It really is the complete package. It's somewhere that's been on mine and Adam's bucket list for a really long time, so we were so excited to tick it off as part of our 6 month Asia travel adventure.
It's a fascinating place, offering the curious traveller a rich history, culture, and unique activities to discover. It's also somewhere that's experienced economic hardship in recent years, the effects of which can still be felt.
Whilst we really loved certain places and aspects of Sri Lanka, there's also things we'd do differently the second time around. We've definitely learned a few lessons along the way - all of which I'll address, to hopefully enable you to have a hassle free Sri Lanka trip of your own!
We spent two (and a bit!) weeks on a "best of Sri Lanka" road trip around the island, starting in the cultural triangle and working our way down to beach hop along the south coast. I've put all our favourite experiences, from bucket list sights to can't-miss dining and drinking, into this handy two week Sri Lanka itinerary. Read on for the very best things to do in Sri Lanka.
The Sri Lanka Two Week Itinerary
3 Nights: Discover the ancient sights of the Cultural Triangle
2 Nights: Experience city life in bustling Kandy
2 Nights: Take the famous train and hike around the tea plantations of Ella
2 Nights: Elephant spot on safari in Yala
2 Nights: Drop and flop on the beaches of Southeastern Sri Lanka
2 Nights: Head down the coast to picturesque Mirissa and surrounds
1 Night: Discover Sri Lanka's colonial past in charming Galle
Got a few extra nights? Start your trip with a night or two in Colombo and / or Negombo to get your bearings, add an extra night in Galle, break up the Kandy to Ella train with hiking and tea plantations in Nuwara Eliya, or beach hop your way along the South Coast for a full week.
Sri Lanka 101
Money in Sri Lanka: The currency in Sri Lanka is the Sri Lankan Rupee. At the time of writing, it stands at 405 Rupees to the British Pound. Cash is still common, and some places may be cash only, though cards are also widely accepted.
Language in Sri Lanka: Sinhala and Tamil are the main languages spoken in Sri Lanka. However English is widely spoken in the main tourist areas.
Best time to visit Sri Lanka: Thanks to the various monsoon seasons that affect the island, there's a couple of best times to visit depending on your route. For the South and West, it's roughly December to March, and for the North and East, it's April to September. As we were mostly doing the central and south regions, we chose the former and visited in March. However the trade off is that some places can be very crowded with tourists, and getting tickets / hotel reservations last minute may be a challenge. I think if I visited again, I'd consider the fringes of peak season to avoid the worst of the crowds.
What to pack for Sri Lanka: Sri Lanka has a hot, tropical, and wildly varied climate, so be prepared for anything. It might be gorgeous sunshine on the coast, or you could be soaked to the skin, shivering in heavy rain up the mountains in Ella (been there...). Therefore light, loose layers are key, and it's worth packing a rain jacket and/or jumper, just in case. There's a number of adventure trails and hikes, so pack your hiking gear if you want to embark on these. If you're heading to the coast, don't forget your swimming costume. And if you'd like to visit the many religious sights and monuments, clothes that cover shoulders and knees are essential.
Getting Around Sri Lanka
Normally, this section would be a mere couple of sentences within my standard travel guide. However, getting around Sri Lanka can definitely be a bit complicated, so it feels worthy of its own section!
You have a number of options. In fact, there's usually multiple avenues you can go down when deciding how to get around the country. The first is a private car and driver. Obviously, this will be the most expensive option, but also the most comfortable and allows you more freedom to explore at your own pace. We didn't go down this route personally (we had the long-term travel budget to think of!), however a friend recently visited and highly recommended tour guide Azu. We met him briefly as he helped us out with securing Kandy to Ella tickets, and he seemed great!
The next option is buses, or tourist coaches. Now this will be the cheapest route, and the choice of most backpackers and younger travellers. However I should caveat this by saying that the driving in Sri Lanka is a bit mental, and by far the worst culprits were consistently the bus drivers! We spent ten minutes on a bus getting to Galle and it was, quite frankly, ten minutes too many.
Sri Lanka also has a decent train system, for example the iconic Kandy to Ella line. Train tickets can be bought via the Sri Lanka Railways website, or third party sites such as 12Go Asia, which is more convenient but with inflated prices. There are further routes that may come in handy, such as Galle - Colombo. You can buy the latter via the Pravesha ticketing system. However it's mostly confined to the West coast and North, and doesn't link much of this itinerary.
So how did we get around? None of these! Read on to discover the ins and outs of travelling Sri Lanka by Tuk Tuk...
Sri Lanka Tuk Tuk Road Trip
So after doing some research, we decided to take the plunge and explore Sri Lanka in our very own Tuk Tuk rental. Sri Lanka is a destination that’s all about adventure, and what’s more adventurous than grabbing a tuk tuk and seeing it for yourself, like a local!
I’ll be honest, once I’d booked our Tuk Tuk, I started to have serious doubts. Was this going to prove to be a serious mistake? What if the driving is crazy, what if Adam can’t get the hang of it, what do we do if we crash?
We picked up our Tuk Tuk from the Colombo airport office, bleary eyed after an early morning flight from India. The staff were super friendly, and even at 9am, the place was rammed. Clearly we weren't the only ones! A brief induction, and we were on the roads, at the mercy of the lawless (I mean there are laws, but go with me here) Sri Lanka roads.
If you're thinking about renting a Tuk Tuk yourself, a few things to know. First off, you have to avoid the motorways, as Tuk Tuks aren't allowed on them. Thankfully this is easy enough to do in the settings of your maps. Tuk Tuk speeds are capped at 40kph, so journeys will take longer than the Maps estimate. We'd find a 3 hour drive would take closer to 4.
Driving-wise, it's somewhere between a car and a motorbike. Getting used to having a clutch handle that looks like a break handle takes a bit of getting used to, as does finding the gears. As for the roads? They definitely take a day or two to get the hang of, and I'd avoid the cities as much as possible. People overtake far more rashly than in the west - but we’d just come from a month in India, so the roads seemed calm in comparison. If in doubt, use your horn!
There are all sorts of extras you can add, like surf racks. You can also pay extra for them to drive your car from Kandy to Ella while you take the train. Get the speaker - or put up with your driver’s dodgy singing like I had to!
After about an hour of driving, I was completely at peace with our decision. Yes the driving is crazy, but Adam did in fact get the hang of it. In fact, it was easily the very best thing we did in Sri Lanka. Having the freedom to go where we wanted, when we wanted, in our very own vehicle, was so much fun.
A note on taking Tuk Tuks in Sri Lanka
There are two types of people in the world - those that thrive on the adrenaline of arguing with Tuk Tuk drivers, and those that dread it. Personally, as someone who hates confrontation, I'm firmly in the latter. However, Tuk Tuks are a necessary part of travelling around in South Asia, and negotiating fares was traditionally all part of the experience.
In recent years, the industry has been shaken up somewhat by the proliferation of ride-hailing apps. Of course, there are plenty of both positive and negative ramifications to the industry and local economy that I'm not going to deep dive into here and now. But when travelling in unfamiliar places, it's great being able to rely on fixed fares, the safety of a tracked route, and the destination already set.
In Sri Lanka, the ride-hailing app of choice is "PickMe". It works much like other ride-hailing apps, and you can book anything from Tuk Tuks to vans. However, we learned the hard way that in some places there's what is colloquially known as the "Tuk Tuk mafia". Particularly at night, it can be hard to get any rides from PickMe, and Tuk Tuk drivers will instead try to charge considerably more than what the app shows. In fact, we had a couple of drivers who got a bit nasty when we tried to question their overinflated rates. After one such incident, we managed to get a PickMe cab in Mirissa, only for several Tuk Tuk drivers to get aggressive and start harassing our driver for having accepted the ride.
Realistically you will probably ending up having to haggle with a Tuk Tuk driver at some point, but just remember to keep your wits about you. And if you're wondering why you can't get a PickMe ride at night, this'll be why. For the latter, try heading a bit away from the main tourist drag and you may have more luck.
3 Nights: Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle
Sitting in the heart of the island is Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle. For those looking to sightsee, it is simply not to be missed. In fact, its bounty of historical sights is so remarkable that they're arguably a necessity on any Sri Lanka itinerary, regardless of your holiday style. As such, it's the perfect place to start your trip.
In the north, the Cultural Triangle's boundary is the ancient kingdom of Anuradhapura. The extensive temple ruins of Polonnaruwa are the eastern boundary, whilst the centre hosts Dambulla's cave temple, and the majestic rock fortress of Lion's Rock in Sigiriya.
We spent three nights exploring the region. Honestly, it's nowhere near enough - but if you've only got two weeks in Sri Lanka, it'll do. You could base yourself for one night at each, or stay somewhere central and do day trips, depending on how much you want to move around. We did two nights in Sigiriya (near Dambulla), and one night in Polonnaruwa.
If you're particularly interested in seeing historical sights, add an extra night or two, and shave some time off the beaches. If I did this trip again, I'd probably commit more time, and try to get up to Anuradhapura too.
Dambulla Cave Temple
One of the Cultural Triangle's most important sights is Dambulla Cave Temple. Believed to have been inhabited by Buddhist monks in the 3rd century BCE, it's one of the best preserved temples in the region. There are multiple temple chambers carved into the rock, the interiors of which are filled with intricate painted murals and gold Buddha statues. It's truly quite the spectacle!
Don’t make the mistake we did of going to the Google Map point that says Dambulla Cave Temple and Golden Temple. Instead the Google location "Dambulla Royal Cave Temple" is the main entrance, where you'll find the ticket office and parking. Otherwise you’ll end up doing a very long walk all the way round to the ticket office!
Entry costs 2000 rupees at the time of writing. From the ticket office it's a steep but fairly short hike up steps to the temples themselves. I'd recommend timing your visit for the cooler parts of the day, otherwise it's a bit of a sweat! At the top you'll be expected to remove your shoes, and modest clothing that covers knees and shoulders is required.
Between 10:30-10:45 as the temples are briefly shut for Buddhist puja, so the crowds swell rather a lot at this time while everyone waits for them to reopen.
Lion's Rock & Pidurangala Rock
Sigiriya's flagship sight is one of Sri Lanka's most important historic artefacts. The UNESCO World Heritage Lion's Rock stands imposingly 200 meters high, a regal sight breaking up the skyline of rolling hills and dense forest. At the very top sit the ruins of an ancient 5th century fortress. With over 1,200 steps, it take several hours to climb to the top, where you can retrace the footsteps of past civilisations, and are rewarded with vistas out over the surrounding landscapes. Tickets can be purchased at the museum, priced at $35 for foreign adults. Consider embarking on the climb at opening, 07:00am, to avoid the heat!
We, sadly, did not end up climbing Lion's Rock. I'm honestly kind of gutted about this, but time was limited, and we couldn't justify the steep ticket price on our limited backpacker budget. An excuse to return!
However, we instead decided to climb neighbouring Pidurangula Rock, which offers similar panoramic views for a fraction of the price. In fact, it's vantage point overlooking Lion's Rock makes it one of the most iconic views in the country.
It’s a steep hike, particularly in the humidity so I’d recommend doing it as early as possible to avoid the heat of the day. We decided to embark on it in time for sunrise, but learned the hard way that pretty much everyone in Sigiriya had decided the same thing. If you want to get up to the top of the rock for sunrise, calculate how much time you need and then double it. We gave ourselves just enough time, which didn’t account for a very long queue to make it up the scrambly bits towards the end of the climb. It's a bit hairy in places - in some you have to use a rope, and there's a bit of a scramble through boulders. However I’m a bit of a scaredy-cat and I managed it without too much of an issue.
Thankfully the top of the rock is vast, and there are enough different spots that it doesn’t feel too crowded. It is however not particularly peaceful due to the sheer number of people, and also the sheer number of drones being flown. We hadn’t initially planned on flying ours because we didn’t want to disturb the peace. But when we saw how many were up, we figured we may as well just join the brigade!
Check the weather forecast in advance if you want to catch a sunrise. We didn't get much colour but it's still beautiful on a misty morning. If you're more interested in avoiding the circus, I noticed that no one was heading up as we headed back down - so an hour after sunrise is probably nice and quiet!
Where to Stay in Sigiriya: Jetwing Vil Uyana
Jetwing Vil Uyana was our very first stay in Sri Lanka, and boy, was it the perfect way to start the trip. Tucked away down a quiet (and bumpy in a tuk tuk!) road in a Sigiriya backstreet, it's a tranquil hideaway from the crowds and tour groups.
The property hosts 36 villas set over five unique habitats: lake, paddy, garden, marsh, and forest. Rooms are vast, elegantly decorated in perfect harmony with the environments they inhabit. Our room had a private pool, ample tub, and a bed that felt like tucking up into a cloud at the end of the night.
The on-site restaurant serves up an excellent breakfast, and is well worth returning to for dinner. My hastily jotted notes, in between gorging, described the cuisine as "exquisite little morsels". Dishes are small enough to comfortably eat several courses, but not so small that you feel cheated. Adam even announced his tuna steak was the nicest he’d ever had!
This was a press stay, but as always, all words very much my own. I can honestly say that it was one of the most beautiful hotels we stayed at during our entire 6 months, and I'd return in a heartbeat. If you'd like to see more of this stunning property, check out my full reel here.
Polonnaruwa Ancient City
For our last night exploring the Cultural Triangle, we headed an hour east of Sigiriya to Polonnaruwa. Now, I'd done almost zero research into Polonnaruwa before visiting. In fact, I'd just put it in our itinerary because I knew it was a part of the Cultural Triangle, so I figured we may as well check it out while we're in the area. However, it ended up being one of my favourite parts of the whole trip.
Polonnaruwa was the second capital city of Sri Lanka after Anuradhapura, in 993 CE. It saw its peak during the 11th and 13th centuries, when it was a hub of trade and the capital of the Sri Lankan royals. What remains is an extensive complex of ancient palaces, temples, and tombs spread across a vast archeological park.
Lankatilaka, Vatadage Thivanka Image House and Gal Vihara are some of the must see sights - however there's plenty more to discover beyond these. We were in at around 07:35 and left at 10:30 before it got too hot. Other than one other modest tour group, we had many of the sights largely to ourselves, which made it a particularly special experience.
Practical Tips for Visiting Pollonnaruwa
Tickets for Polonnaruwa are available online or at the ticket office. Card is accepted, and it costs $30 a ticket, or 9000 rupees (half price for children). The ticket office is not at the entrance of the Ancient City so don’t make the same mistake we did and head straight there! It’s actually about 800m away at the archaeological museum. Somewhat peculiarly the ticket office opens at 7:30, however the site is open from 7. We’d read that we’d need our passport number to buy tickets but we didn’t at the counter (I think this might just be online).
If you decide to go round via Tuk Tuk like we did make sure you leave absolutely nothing in the vehicle because monkeys will jump in and steal things (and yes this was another lesson we learnt the hard way!). Alternatively, you can hire a Tuk Tuk driver to take you around, or hike cycles from just outside.
Inside the complex, it's considered disrespectful to take pictures with your back facing the Buddha. You have to remove hats and shoes before entry to most of the temples.
There are plenty of snack shops within the complex where you can pick up samosas and cold drinks. Try the fresh orange juice, which tastes like a mix of orange and lime!
Where to eat in Polonnaruwa
Mr Pinsiri's Kitchen
It wasn't just the awe-inspiring sights of the ancient city that endeared me to Polonnaruwa. It was also where we experienced some of the best Sri Lankan food on the whole trip. As such I have two restaurants in the area that I wholeheartedly recommend you add to your itinerary.
The first is Mr. Punsiri's Kitchen, a cosy little spot filled with foliage and quirky decor not far from the entrance to the ruins. Now when somewhere is rated 5 stars on Google it's either going to be amazing, or a scam, but thankfully, Mr Punsiri's is the former. It was our first taste of Sri Lankan food and it did not disappoint, with hearty mixed kottu and nasi goreng rice packed with depth and flavour.
After a month of supposedly spicy dishes in India we'd built up some tolerance, but the spicy chicken sauce on the side genuinely packed a punch. At first we thought the prices seemed a little steep, but actually for the portion size they’re decent value. Mr Punsiri himself (or at least, I assume he was!) was very hospitable, which added to the experience.
Rasabojun Gedara
My second Polonnaruwa restaurant recommendation is Rasabojun Gedara. It's a simple, homey mud hut with a straw roof, run by a family of women while children run around playing on the outskirts. The interior is lined with rustic, narrow tables and benches, while in a circle in the centre lidded pots are piled high with traditional Sri Lankan food.
It's worth visiting for the sheer variety of local flavours you get to experience in one meal, with ingredients including jackfruit, aubergine, tapioca, and okra. The dishes are mostly vegetarian, with one fish and one chicken dish when we visited. Standouts included slivers of caramelised aubergine with garlic, and a thick, sumptious golden dahl.
We paid 5000 rupees for two lunches (£12.32 at time of writing). The staff themselves are lovely, even packing up a small dessert for us when we had to run off. Bear in mind, Google says they open at 9am, however they were very much still setting up when we got there just before 11 (Google is not particularly reliable in Sri Lanka!).
2 Nights: Kandy
When planning our Sri Lanka itinerary we'd decided we wanted to avoid cities as much as possible. Sri Lanka is best known for it's nature, after all, and navigating our Tuk Tuk through crazy city driving just didn't appeal. Therefore we had just an overnight in Kandy, arriving late in the evening and heading straight out the next morning on the train to Ella.
However, as soon as we drove in to Kandy, just as the first embers of sunset lit Kandy Lake in a golden glow, we realised we'd made a mistake. Turns out, Kandy, one of the largest cities in central Sri Lanka, is actually well worth visiting in its own right. Set around the lake with a scenic mountain backdrop, it's far from the charmless, frenetic city we were expecting.
I've accordingly allocated Kandy two nights for this Sri Lanka two week itinerary, so you can learn from our mistakes and have a full day to explore the city. Unfortunately, because we were just in and out I'm unable to pad this out with recommendations (an excuse to return?). However we did do one thing - sunset dinner at Slightly Chilled Lounge, the view from which (pictured) was enough to convince us that Kandy is actually rather beautiful.
THE KANDY TO ELLA TRAIN
When it comes to the most iconic train journeys, the Kandy to Ella train is a definite contender. This meandering route on a bright blue train takes passengers through tea plantations and past waterfalls on winding mountain tracks.
Getting tickets is an experience in itself, as they get snapped up well in advance. Tickets are available via Sri Lankan railways, or 12Go Asia. Supposedly the best carriages are 2nd or 3rd for the open windows - however we were perfectly happy peering out of the doors in the comfort of 1st.
The train journey is meant to take around 5 hours, however will realistically take far longer. The train regularly stopped in the middle of nowhere for no obvious reason, but given the views, no one really minds.
We’d read that the best views were from Nuwara Eliya to Haputale, and that in the direction from Kandy towards Ella the views were best on the right. However we found the entire route offered stunning vistas from the very start (well, once you get out of Kandy, at least), and that both sides were equally beautiful. In fact, we kept running from one side to the other trying to capture it all.
Being as popular a train ride as it has become, it’s unsurprisingly pretty rammed with tourists. In fact, they far outnumbered the locals! You’ll find the train doors busy with people getting snaps - though this died down later in the journey once everyone had got their shots.
Staff come up and down taking lunch orders (fairly basic fried rice), serving up beers (not cheap at 1000 rupees), and teas and coffees. The train staff themselves are also very sweet, letting people know when the good views are coming up!
If you want to take the train across the Nine Arch Bridge, you’ll need to go a stop further than Ella to Demodara. And if you don’t fancy the full journey, you still get a good idea of the scenery from Nuwara Eliya.
2 Nights: Ella
The small town of Ella, tucked away in the misty mountains of Sri Lanka's hill country, is one of the country's most popular destinations. Though not the end of the train line, it's the stop most travellers descend at when taking the train from Kandy. It's famous for the sight of the Nine Arches Bridge, which attracts crowds at all times of day. But there's also plenty of natural attractions, including hiking and waterfalls.
The main strip is a compact affair, packed with bars, restaurants, and boho shops. It feels at times as if someone took a surf town and transplanted it to the mountains. There are mandalas and man buns aplenty, and vast numbers of tourists in elephant pants. Countless restaurants, bars, cafes and lodgings have “chill” in the name (so many that it’s honestly a bit ridiculous).
I suspect that Ella has been somewhat a victim of its own success in this respect, as the influx of tourists and resulting Westerner-facing infrastructure put in place rather negates the small town charm we'd been hoping to find. Nonetheless, it's still a beautiful destination for first-time Sri Lanka visitors, with plenty of attractions making it worthwhile regardless.
Unfortunately my "things to do in Ella" is a little lighter than I'd hoped, as our one full day was marred by heavy rain. So if you have the time, and if the many regional hikes are key to your itinerary, consider adding an extra day so you don't face the same fate!
Where to Stay in Ella: Hideout Ella
We arrived in Ella to ominous clouds, which swiftly released a torrent of rain. And it did not stop. Being exposed on the side of a hill in a dome in torrential rain doesn’t sound particularly appealing, however in Hideout Ella Domes, it was actually quite cosy, and surprisingly robust in the extreme weather.
When booking something “Instagrammable” I’m always a bit dubious about whether you’re paying solely for the view, and whether the actual service will live up to the inflated cost. However, I was genuinely impressed with Hideout. The Dome was stocked with a kettle, teas and coffees, there was shower gel, and the outdoor shower was actually rather lovely (and hot!).
There’s in-room dining for both breakfast and main meals. The latter is a mix of Western and local dishes, including curries, burgers and pizzas. As a general rule, we’ve learnt to always order local, and we did just that, tucking into paratha roti and special “lump rice” (no idea, but it was packed with veggies and tasted great!).
Of course, you’re not booking Hideout Ella Domes for the food, or amenities. You’re booking for the view out over the iconic Nine Arches Bridge. And that, alone, is well worth it.
Things to do in Ella
Nine Arch Bridge
Nestled in the dense highland landscapes of Ella, Nine Arch Bridge is one of Sri Lanka's landmark sights. Built in 1921 during British colonial rule, it's an impressive sight rising high amidst the lush mountains and tea plantations. The bridge is a little outside of town, making for a pleasant short hike.
Photographers and tourists alike flock to the bridge to see the blue train chugging across it at regular intervals throughout the day. The bridge is on the route between Ella and Demodara Station, so you'll want to check departure times through and from these stations.
We had a great view of the bridge from our terrace at Hideout Ella, but you can also wander across the bridge in between trains. For photographers, there's plenty of great photo opps in the surrounding area - I recommend heading down in the early morning before the crowds descend. For this photo, we headed into steep banks on the side of the bridge, where local women pluck tea. It's a bit of a scramble in places, and I'd recommend covering up or you may get latched on to by leeches!
Little Adam's Peak
Ella boasts a number of hiking trails, the most popular of which is Little Adam's Peak. It's named after the nearby, similarly shaped Adam's Peak - but offers a much easier climbing experience. The trail takes walkers through Ella's tranquil tea plantations and local villages, before steps guide you up to the summit. It's a short twenty minute jaunt from the trailhead, and the summit offers sweeping views out over the town and surrounding landscapes below. Though the hike itself is free, you'll have to pay for parking if you've driven - so don't do like we did, and forget your wallet!
Where to Eat in Ella
Sintha Bara Lonthe - Konich
Most restaurants in Ella are congregated around the main drag, however Sintha Bara Lonthe - Konich is a pleasantly hidden spot tucked away in a backstreet. It's quintessentially Ella - reggae plays, festoons wrap and weave around diners, and the staff are decidedly “chill”.
The menu is mostly Western, however on the guidance of Google reviews, we stuck to local dishes - specifically the chilli chicken kottu and chicken rice and curry. We made the right choice, both dishes were ample and warming.
The best thing about it is the views over palm trees and forest - through which, the blue train suddenly wizzed through right in front of us, a pleasant surprise.
The White Rabbit
The White Rabbit was our very first meal in Ella, offering shelter from the stormy skies and endless sheet rain. The restaurant is at one end of the main street, near the station. The vibe is distinctly boho, with bamboo slatted walls, rattan tablecloths and lampshades hewn from coconuts. The staff look like they'd be right at home catching waves in Weligama!
Thankfully, it's not all aesthetics. The cocktail menu, for one, is actually interesting and not just mojitos. I got the mad hatter with gin, cucumber and chilli, a combination I will be repeating at home! We ordered jackfruit balls, crispy morsels with a moreish green chilli dip. This was followed up by mushroom roti tacos and a Sri Lankan prawn curry. The latter could have done with an extra prawn, but the creamy coconut base can’t be faulted, especially with soft garlicky bread to dip.
Mandara Mount
On our way out of town from Ella to Yala, the clouds parted and we saw our first sliver of sunshine. So we decided to take the opportunity to stop for breakfast with a view, to finally soak in what we could of Ella's lush landscapes. We found ourselves at Mandara Mount, a quiet spot on the road out of town, with a stunning vista out over Ella Rock. Its simple wood tables and chairs let the view take centre stage, doing away with the aggressively boho aesthetic the rest of Ella appears to have adopted. Munching on egg, bacon, and cheese rotis, paired with big, frothy coffees, we enjoyed the tranquil setting of this apparently fairly secret spot.
2 Nights: Yala
Sri Lanka is a popular safari destination, boasting a number of national parks that draw in visitors. The most popular are Minneriya, in the Cultural Triangle, Southern Central Udawalawe, and Yala, on the South East coast. The latter is known for having one of the world's densest populations of leopards, so it's the one we chose to visit. It also has some excellent luxury accommodation options, which in themselves are more than enough reason to add it to your itinerary.
In recent years the previously arid region of Yala National Park has been plagued with heavy rain and floods, hence what was one once a wide open plain has become thick with vegetation. This in turn has led to animals being harder to spot amongst the dense bush. As such, sightings have become more infrequent.
It's also Sri Lanka's most popular park, and can therefore be quite crowded. I'd recommend doing your research when choosing which safari provider you go with. We visited on safari tours offered all-inclusive with our hotel (more on that below), who were able to skip the queues on entry, and knew where to go to avoid the crowds.
Where to Stay in Yala: Uga Chena Huts
Much of our Sri Lanka trip was done on a shoestring budget, as we didn't want to blow our funds for 6 months of travelling 1 month in. However we had the opportunity whilst in Yala to stay at one of the most incredible luxury resorts in the region. Uga Chena Huts is an all-inclusive property on the edge of the national park, in a prime position for safari excursions. But it's such a luxurious retreat in itself, that you'd be forgiven for not wanting to explore further afield.
The hotel is made up of individual cabins, complete with thatched roofs and private pools. The rooms are ample, nestled amongst dense foliage so you feel like you’re truly immersed in the wilderness. In fact the whole property feels utterly secluded, barring the odd elephant occasionally wandering by.
The all inclusive is comprehensive - no worrying about what you can have from the minibar, no added extras on the menu for a surcharge. You can even get 6 pieces daily laundered for free (a welcome discovery after getting extremely wet and muddy in Ella).
You don’t necessarily visit Uga Chena Huts for the food, but it ended up being a surprising standout. Everything we ate was faultless, from the delightfully mushy French toast with hints of tart apricot, to the feast of seafood and meat fresh off the bush grill. Even the seafood chowder soup (a dish I consider myself quite the critic of) was warming and delicately flavoured.
The hotel hosts two inclusive safari sessions daily, in the morning and afternoon. Of course, safari sightings are very much the luck of the draw. We went out twice, with mixed results. In fact, I'd pretty much abandoned all hope when we stumbled on a herd of elephants up close, including the sweetest little calf. The guides themselves are excellent, able to provide context to the sightings whilst avoiding the traffic.
If you're looking for an extra special Sri Lanka stay, perhaps for a honeymoon or special occasion, you'll be hard pressed to find better.
2 Nights: The South Coast
Just along the coast from Yala, you'll find swathes of sandy coastline and laid back, rustic beach towns. There are dozens of possible places along this strip where you could choose to base yourselves. Tangalle is the biggest of the towns, however that doesn't necessarily mean it's the busiest. In fact, the stretch of casual shacks and restaurants that line the beach was surprisingly quiet during our trip, despite it being peak season. The beach, a long sliver of golden sand, was equally tranquil. There’s not much in the way of swimming bar a small rocky spot, which contributes to its relative quietness. If you're looking to beach hop, nearby Silent Beach is another beautiful spot.
Further West, Dikwella and the bay of Hiriketiya have become a major hub for travellers. Hiriketiya's beach is one of the coast's prominent spots for surfing, and has consequently become a popular destination with Gen Z and Millenials looking to surf and party. Stylish, boho chic beach restaurants, hip cafes, and boutiques selling resort wear can all be found within a short distance of the beach. The beach itself is a small crescent packed out with surfers, with very little space beyond this. If you want to surf, it's the spot, with plenty of surfboards to rent, and outlets offering lessons. However it's less peaceful for sunbathing and generally luxuriating.
Dikwella's beach, on the other hand, makes up for a lack of surfable waves with fewer crowds, and plenty of loungers to see away the day with a cocktail and a book. The place we ended up at (Credible Beach Bar) had no upfront cost for loungers, you just had to get food and drink, and we we happy to oblige. The staff were friendly, not too pushy, and would regularly brush the sand off the loungers / help people move them to better optimise the sun to shade ratio. It’s fairly busy, but long enough that you don’t feel it. There are also surfboards to rent (at 1000 rupees for an hour), although on our visit the waves were minimal so there weren't many people out.
I'm not going to bother with a list of things to do for this section - this is precisely the part of the trip when the entire point is to do nothing...
Where to stay on Sri Lanka's South Coast
Tangalle Hotels
- Anama by Queens Mount: Private pool suites at a purse friendly price in this lush green Tangalle hideaway.
- Anantara Peace Haven: Tangalle's vibe is more no-frills beach stays, but for those seeking luxury Anantara's Tangalle resort is the best around.
- Turtle Bay Boutique Hotel: A well rated traditionally decorated mid-range stay with a lovely pool.
- Ananya Beach Resort: A prime beach front spot with views out over the Indian Ocean from spacious room balconies.
- Seven Turtles: An intimate beachside resort perfect for lazy Tangalle days.
Dikwella and Hiriketiya Hotels
- Hidden Heaven: Budget friendly, spacious apartments with a kitchen and washing machine facilities.
- The Yard: A central mid-range Hiriketiya stay with a focus on traditional South Asian design touches.
- Asiri Villa: A stylish, modern Dikwella villa with an ample pool.
Other South Coast Hotels
- Igabara Hobbit House: Because why stay in a bog standard resort, when you can glamp in a jungle den? The private pool suites at this unusual spot not far from Tangalle on the Rekawa Lagoon look particularly plush.
- Taru Villas: A stylish, elegantally decorated property between Tangalle and Dikwella, on peaceful Mawella Beach.
- Halcyon Mawella: The South Coast's boho beach aesthetic is distinctly elevated at this chic Mawella resort.
- The Last House: A beautiful traditional guest house along a secluded stretch of coastline. This is one that's on my bucket list!
- Parasol Dore: An intimate stay overlooking a small beach just West of Dikwella.
Where to Eat on the South Coast
Chill House
For authentic Sri Lankan food in Tangalle, you can't go wrong with easygoing family-run spot Chill House. Classic dishes like rice and curry are cooked by a friendly Sri Lankan Amma in a simple backstreet hut and garden. The father is a fisherman, so expect fresh fish and seafood dishes. The food presentation is fairly no frills, but this only adds to the sense that you're experiencing a genuine Sri Lankan family meal. My only complaint is that the music was a bit intense for lunchtime, but perhaps it gets lively enough to justify it later in the day.
Raa Hiriketiya
If you google where to eat in Hiriketiya, chances are local institution Smoke & Bitters will come up. However, we were intrigued by the newest venue by the same team, Raa. Specifically, I was lured in by the premise of the toddy tapper, who heads up into the palm trees surrounding the restaurant at 5pm to freshly tap toddy for drinks. Most of the time he was far above our heads, but watching him walk the tightropes between trees like it was effortless was very impressive.
Both Smoke & Bitters and Raa are regulars on Asia's "Best Cocktail Bars" list, so obviously we had to try a tipple or two. My cocktail, the baby leaf, tasted like curry distilled into a cocktail, something I wouldn’t previously have expected to be a good thing, but it was balanced beautifully with just a kick of warm alcohol spice.
The food menu is designed as a mix of sharing plates intended to make a sort of "create your own" Sri Lankan rice and curry. We were underwhelmed by the starter of prawn lentil patties (good flavour but a bit dry), however the rest of the dishes overwhelmingly brought it back. The black pork curry was slow cooked, and truly melt in the mouth, whilst the tender jackfruit goujons were incredibly moreish. The food also came out shockingly fast by Sri Lankan standards.
Raa was one of our most expensive meals in Sri Lanka, but it was well worth it. As the sun sets over the bay, it's a pretty idyllic spot to experience the essence of Sri Lanka's South Coast.
Garlic Cafe
I love garlic, so the name was enough to convince me to check out Hiriketiya's Garlic Cafe. It's a pleasant spot around 10 minutes walk inland from Hiriketiya beach, with a foliage filled (providing much needed shade) garden. We popped in for brunch, and ordered the chicken croissant sandwich and bacon toast. I'm often dubious about ordering Western dishes, but these were genuinely very good. Food is slow to come out (but this is par for the course), but beautifully presented. It's also on the pricier side, though not unreasonable (but again, par for the course round these parts!).
2 Nights: Mirissa
Further down the South Coast is another popular stretch of golden coastline, with popular beach town Mirissa at it's heart. Here you'll find plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of days - beaches, shops, and plenty of restaurants, cafes, and bars.
Mirissa is known as one of the best places in the world for whale and dolphin watching, however we read mixed reviews about the ethics of these operations, so chose to abstain. If you do decide to go on one, I'd love to hear how it went. But it's the wealth of beaches that are the main draw, with a number of Sri Lanka's loveliest stretches of sand within driving distance along the South West stretch of coast.
Mirissa makes a great hub thanks to its wealth of amenities, however there's a number of smaller towns in the surrounding region. Or, find yourself a secluded villa in an untouched stretch of coastline, and bask in the tranquility.
Where to Stay in Mirissa
Budget Hotels in Mirissa
Lavendra Villa Mirissa: A modest spot with a lush garden pool, away from the bustle of the main town.
Friends Coliving Mirissa: A simple, clean, and comfortable stay a little outside town in a quiet backstreet. Friendly hosts, and a local family serves up dinner on request.
Mid Range Hotels in Mirissa
The Spice House Mirissa: A homely stay with classically decorated rooms and plenty of local character.
Coastline Mirissa Boutique Hotel: Big box resorts are few and far between on this stretch of coast, but Coastline is your strongest option, with panoramic pool views and chic on-site dining.
Luxury Hotels in Mirissa
The Nine Mirissa: A small, boutique stay with a modern, minimalist feel.
Tekanda Lodge: Technically half way between Mirissa and Galle near Ahangama, but so beautiful this secluded 6 room private estate is worthy of a mention!
Amba Villa: An elegant private stay complete with pool, on a less-touristed stretch of the South Coast.
Things to do in Mirissa
Coconut Tree Hill
The palm-fringed headland of Coconut Hill is one of Mirissa's most Instagram-famous spots on the Island, particularly at sunset when crowds descend to watch the sky turn pink. It's a unique sight in itself, with palm trees randomly dotted across the red earth, a dramatic silhouette against the ocean blues.
We decided to forego sunset in favour of sunrise, thinking we might have the spot to ourselves. Turns out, plenty of people had the same idea! It's unsurprisingly popular with photographers and influencers, so don't expect peace. There's plenty of selfie sticks, tripods, and drones hovering overhead - but when it's this photogenic, can you blame them?
It actually emptied out a bit after the sun had risen, so the hour after sunrise might be a good bet for a quieter experience. The path, as much as there is a path, is a little steep in places, so I don't recommend wearing heeled shoes like I did...
Beaches in and around Mirissa
Mirissa Beach
Mirissa's main beach is a lively spot with beachfront cafes and sunset bars - head here in the afternoon to bask, then head to the bars for a cocktail with a view.
Secret Beach
The (not particularly) Secret Beach (pictured) just along from Mirissa Beach is a small cove with a couple of restaurant outlets, away from the bustle of town. It wasn't particularly clean when I visited, so we didn't hang about long!
Weligama Beach
Weligama Beach is a favourite with Sri Lanka's surf community, with gentle waves making it a great spot to learn how to surf.
Madiha Beach
Laidback Madiha Beach is quieter and less built up than some of the others on this list. It's popular for more advanced surfing and snorkelling.
Polhena Beach
A small cove with a local, family friendly vibe in nearby Matara, that's known as a great place to spot turtles.
Ahangama Beach
In case you hadn't already got your fill of boho surf towns in Sri Lanka, Ahangama, around half an hour's drive west of Mirissa, is another bustling spot for catching waves, chic beachwear boutiques, and hipster restaurants.
P.S. For a more in-depth look at each destination, as well as travel tips, I'd highly recommend The Common Wanderer's series of blog posts in and around Sri Lanka. In fact, their guide to Hiriketiya helped us to find the perfect swim shorts for Adam at Le Ketiya boutique, something he's been struggling to find for years.
Where to eat in Mirissa
The Doctor's House
I love a restaurant with character, and The Doctors House, housed in the grounds of a 200 year old Dutch and Ayurvedic hospital in nearby Madiha, is just that. The ample space houses a bar and restaurant space, as well as shops and hotel rooms. There's also a rooftop bar area called The Upstairs, serving up tapas. The space was opened by two Australians in 2016, and laid back Aussie vibes predominate here.
The main menu ranges from breakfast staples through to lunch and dinner. It's all international favourites - think things like Poke bowls, pizzas, and pastas. We tried their burger, the Madiha Ciosa pizza, and salt and pepper squid, which made a nice change from the curries that had become our staple Sri Lankan diet. At lunch during our visit it was quiet, but I imagine that as the sun sets this becomes a happening spot!
Shady Lane
They say that South Sri Lanka is becoming Bali 2.0, and despite having never been to Bali myself, I can definitely see the similarities. The explosion of “boho chic” cafes, for instance. Shady Lane is one such in Mirissa. It’s the kind of place I’d probably avoid at home in London, but when you’re looking for an early morning coffee fix in Mirissa, it's just the place.
The menu is vegan and vegetarian, with a focus on healthy dishes like avocado toasts and chia bowls. We ordered both. The former was done well (avocado toast is, after all, the boho vegetarian cafe “bread and butter”). The latter came in a completely impractical jar, heaped high with blended fruit. Very hipster, impossible to eat. Nonetheless, the flavours were decent!
Overall for a decent coffee and breakfast, Shady Lane hits the spot. There’s also a small boutique on site with branded t-shirts and rather chic pastel linen sets, if you like your eggs with a side of retail therapy.
South Coast
I don't know why, but tacos just taste so much better by the sea. So, our first stop when we arrived in Mirissa was South Coast, a Mexican restaurant with a concise menu of sharing plates. There are, of course, tacos, but also a selection of bites including guacamole and cevice. We chose the aubergine fries with basil mayo, which were so good, they had the aubergine skeptic in me (it's a texture thing) craving another portion. Tuna sashimi can often be subtly flavoured, however South Coast's rendition was bold, liberally garnished with cucumber, spring onion and a liberal helping of soy sauce and chilli. The chilli prawn and chicken tacos were piled high with toppings, and garnished with lashings of guacamole. For a first meal in Mirissa, it did not disappoint.
No.1 Dewmini Roti Shop
No.1 Dewmini Roti Shop started off life as a no-frills shack next to the station in 2009, but has evolved into a popular family-run Mirissa institution. The menu is unsurprisingly focussed on the Sri Lankan staple of rotis, a simple and delicious South Asian flatbread. There's an extensive selection of rotis filled with both sweet and savoury options, as well as other local delicacies like rice and curry and hoppers.
Our savoury choice was the prawn, cheese and egg (which comes with chicken gravy and dahl). It definitely needs the sauces or it verges on dry, but the flavours were great. The banana, chocolate and peanut butter roti was our sweet pick, and was delicious without being overly cloying. All in all it's a pleasant break from the many hip coffee and chia bowl spots that make up much of Mirissa's dining scene.
1 Night: Galle
Galle is a pleasant change of scenery in South Sri Lanka. Whilst it’s undeniably touristy, the “surf’s up” ethos further down the coast is replaced by chic shops, charming cafes, and historical sights. The fortified old city stands proud against the coastline, its city walls sheltering picturesque streets and architecture remniscent of past Dutch, Portuguese, and British rule. There are some modest sights, but the allure of Galle Fort is in the streets themselves. Stylish boutiques, heritage hotels, and elegant restaurants all contribute to Galle's air of nostalgic charm.
It pains me to only allocate one night to Galle, which was probably my favourite destination in the whole of Sri Lanka. Realistically, it's sights are compact enough to comfortably see in one night, and we're tight on time here. However, if you can spare another night or two, I'd highly recommend it.
Where to Stay in Galle
Budget Galle Hotels
Arches Fort: A simple, homely stay in the heart of town.
Wijenayake's Guest House: No frills, but friendly staff and a great location in the Fort.
Lighthouse View Inn: A private property offering views out over the iconic Galle lighthouse.
Megabe Villa: A basic, budget-friendly stay outside the Fort, trading city streets for relaxed pool vibes.
Mid Range Galle Hotels
The Dutch Bungalow: Beautifully decorated interiors and a central location make this stay feel more luxe than the price tag would suggest.
Tamarind Hill: Trade in the hubbub of Galle Fort for a more laidback stay just outside town, in an impeccably furnished period property.
The Bartizan: Possibly the best views in Galle Fort at this chic hotel with ocean vistas.
No 5 Middle Street: Elegant dark wood interiors and canopied four posters make for a stylish stay under £100.
Luxury Galle Hotels
Fort Bazaar: A beautiful boutique stay in a heritage property, complete with a pool.
Galle Fort Hotel: An elegant, quintessentially Galle Fort hotel stay in a classic colonial-era building.
The Charleston: Minimal interiors let the location do the talking at this iconic coastal Galle Fort hotel.
Jetwing Lighthouse: Galle heritage meets resort comforts at this sophisticated beachside spot.
Things to do in Galle
Explore Galle Fort
Most of the tourist-friendly attractions in Galle are concentrated in the Galle Fort area. You could quite happily explore the small, teardrop shaped neighbourhood yourself by foot, discovering the cobblestoned lanes lined with boutiques, restaurants, and heritage buildings. The main concentration of these is around Pedlar Street and the roads leading off it. Pop into Stick No Bills for playful, vintage-inspired postcards and art prints, Karma Collection for locally sourced souvenirs and clothes, and gallery / cafe / handicraft store Exotic Roots.
Galle Fort's lighthouse is the symbol of the city, standing tall at the very edge of the coast. Though you can't enter the lighthouse, it's a popular sight to see and take photos with. The surrounding ramparts come alive in the early evening, when locals and tourists alike flock to watch the sun set. Grab a takeaway snack from a nearby stall, and join the crowds!
If you're interesting in learning about Galle's complex history as a bustling fort town, head to the National Maritime Museum. It's quite information dense, and can be a bit stuffy inside, but provides an in-depth overview into the region's maritime history and position in global trading through a selection of marine-focussed artefacts.
You'll also find the National Museum nearby, housed in a 17th century Dutch colonial building. It's home to a small collection of exhibits charting the history of Galle, including ceramics, weaponry, and other artefacts.
Have a Beach Day
If you're following this itinerary to a tee, you may well already be all beached out. However if you've chosen to skip the South Coast's impressive stretch of beaches thus far, you might consider taking a day to visit some of the beaches in the Galle region.
The most well known of these is Unawatuna Beach, a short drive from central Galle. It's a vast, golden sand beach lined with a number of restaurants and bars that offer sunbeds to rent. Alternatively, nearby Jungle Beach is a smaller, quieter option.
For the Instagram-minded amongst us, head to Dalawella Beach, which features a very photo friendly rope swing. Dalawella Beach is also home to a colony of turtles. The turtles seem to be a pretty permanent feature at the beach, as unfortunately they’ve become dependent on humans feeding them. Ethically it’s fairly murky water (pun intended) and to be honest, definitely felt a bit dubious with so many people crowding around and feeding the turtles (locals sell bags of seaweed to feed them with). But it's undeniably quite the sight to see so many of these impressive creatures congregating so close to shore.
Where to eat in Galle
Coffee and Brunch Galle
At first, I was put off by the rather on the nose name of Coffee Brunch Galle, however this stylish art lined spot in a classic Pedlar Street building ended up being one of my very favourite dining experiences. We popped in for breakfast, enticed by the extensive coffee menu with all sorts of iced and hot choices (I went for an iced cardamom latte, delicious). It does an all day brunch menu, as well as lunch and dinner bites of sandwiches, burgers, and other international fare.
We tucked into the "crispy bites" enticed by the mysterious name. These proved to be deep fried capsicum, an ample portion with a wonderfully light and non-greasy batter, paired with a bbq dip.
But it was the cinnamon French toast that was the standout, in fact, possibly the best French toast I’ve ever had. It was thick, decadent and perfectly gooey. The only dish that didn’t massively impress was the avocado toast - not a bad rendition by any means, just less impressive than the other dishes.
My only regret? Not coming back to try the beef sando on the lunch menu. My main feedback? A re-naming is in order!
Dumplings Cafe
I have a bit of a weakness for dumplings. If they're on a menu, 9 out of 10 times, I'm probably going to order them. In fact, I ate dumplings so much in Taiwan that Adam started nicknaming me "dumpling" - you are what you eat, after all!
So when I saw that Galle Fort had a restaurant dedicated to dumplings, obviously I made a beeline for it. Dumplings Cafe is a picturesque spot, in that Bali aesthetic way that seems to be all the rage in Sri Lanka. The menu has dumplings (shocker), but also Asian rice dishes, noodles, and bites like bao buns and spring rolls.
We chose the prawn and chicken dumplings, braised beef bao, and prawn wonton soup. You'd be a bit concerned if somewhere with dumplings in the name didn't do a decent showing, but thankfully, they did not disappoint. As someone who is fairly lukewarm about wonton soup, the latter was also a surprising hit, with a thick, umami rich broth swimming with a healthy portion of wontons.
If you're looking for a change from Sri Lankan cuisine, or simply a dumpling enthusiast like myself, Dumplings Cafe is an excellent laidback option.
And with that, a pretty perfect first timers two week Sri Lanka itinerary. It's a richly varied destination, as enticing for centuries old culture and history as it is to drop and flop along the beaches of the idyllic Southern coastline. It's as doable on a budget as it is appropriate for luxury travellers, with great hotel options at both ends of the spectrum. And of course, it is the ideal destination for those seeking adventure. Hire yourself your own tuk tuk and take to the roads, from hiking in the hills of Ella to surfing the waves of Weligama.
If you have any questions, or further recommendations for things to do and best places to visit in Sri Lanka, please do drop them in the comments below. Happy travels!
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Planning for August 2026 – so appears to be similar to your time frame.
Thank you in advance for your detailed itinerary. Good information.
Author
Oh wonderful, I hope you have a great time!