When it comes to cosy Winter destinations in Europe, Vienna is hard to beat. The city is famous for it’s Christmas markets, making it an excellent choice in November and December to soak up all things festive. Vienna encapsulates the charm of Europe during the season - not just the markets, but also it’s iconic cafes, picturesque displays, and show-stopping lights that adorn the city’s charming streets. Yes, there’s a chill in the air, but it just adds to the ambience. And if you’re lucky, you might just get snow!
Adam and I spent 4 nights exploring the Vienna Christmas markets with Jet2holidays, drinking punch, shopping for Christmas presents, and generally taking in all the festive merriment. Outside the markets, we also explored some of the city’s sights and food scene. I’ve included a few highlights below, to inspire your own Christmas in Vienna adventures.
- ad: this trip was hosted by Jet2Holidays, however as always, all words and opinions entirely my own -
Chirstmas in Vienna 101
When to visit Vienna
To experience the best of Christmas in Vienna, aim for late November and December. We visited in the first week of December and the festive season was in full swing!
Getting to Vienna
There are regular flights from London Stansted with Jet2, which can be combined with hotels for a no-fuss city break package. We chose a package that included flights to Vienna and our hotel stay, as well as 22kg checked baggage - ideal when you’re packing thick jumpers and chunky winter boots!
Getting around Vienna
Vienna city centre is fairly compact, therefore it’s a relatively walkable city if you’re able. It also has a metro and tram system for longer journeys. There are a multitude of ticket types available, including single tickets, or reasonably priced multi-day options. Taxis and Ubers are also readily available - we took a few over the course of the trip, and rarely had to wait more than a couple of minutes.
What to pack for Winter in Vienna
Spoiler alert: it’s probably going to be cold. During our trip the temperature hovered around 0-5 degrees celsius, with occasional rain and snow. Therefore layers are a must - I packed thermals to wear underneath jeans and jumpers. Comfortable and sturdy boots for walking are also recommended. And don’t forget your gloves, hat and scarves! I’d also suggest earmuffs - honestly my favourite winter accessory, as they don’t ruin your hair, but keep your ears soooo warm. And bonus, they’re cute!
Where to stay in Vienna
The Hoxton Vienna
We spent the entirety of our trip at The Hoxton Vienna, which was booked as part of our Jet2Holidays package. Having the flights and hotel sorted in one booking? Ideal. The hotel turned out to be an excellent base for exploring the city, with the vast number of sights within a 20 minute walk away. Housed in a converted 1950s office block, it’s a really unique stay. The lobby is striking, with colourful artwork contrasting the stark 20th century architecture. There are three dining and drinking spaces on site, including a chic rooftop bar, and secret basement speakeasy with live music. There’s also a heated rooftop pool, although sadly it wasn’t open during our stay.
The rooms themselves are sufficiently spacious and comfortable, as well as well-stocked with teas, coffees, and other amenities. One thing to note is that you have to ask for your room to be cleaned the day before - it took us a while to figure this out!
Staff were consistently friendly and helpful. We were given a Christmas market guide on check-in, and recommended restaurants in the area.
Christmas Markets in Vienna
Essential info for visiting the Christmas Markets in Vienna
- The markets open from early to mid November - if you visit towards the end of the month or in December, they should all be open. They're free to enter, opening hours are generally from 11am to 9 or 10pm, although this varies from market to market. Some markets close at the end of December, whilst others stay open into the first week of January.
- Most stalls accept card, however I'd consider having a bit of cash on you just in case.
- The shopping stalls focus on handcrafted goods and gifts, as well as festive decorations. I was tempted by playful novelty tree ornaments, as well as all sorts of tasty looking chutneys and sauces. If you're planning on doing your Christmas shopping at the markets, I'd recommend making a list of people to buy for, and ideas in advance, otherwise it can be overwhelming!
- When buying drinks, you’ll be charged a 5 Euro deposit fee for the cup, which you can return for your money back. Or keep them as a souvenir! The cups vary between the markets, so it's part of the fun ticking off all the different designs.
- The Christmas markets are at their busiest in the evenings and on weekends. Therefore if you have the flexibility, I'd recommend visiting during weekdays and earlier in the day (I particularly enjoyed seeing them through golden hour and sunset).
- I wouldn't recommend the market for those who are unable to stand for long periods, as there isn't much in the way of seating.
Christkindlmarkt Rathausplatz
Rathausplatz is arguably the “main” Christmas market in Vienna, situated outside the "Rathaus" (City Hall). As such, it’s also one of the busiest. If I’m totally honest, I found it a bit overwhelming for this reason - perhaps consider going earlier in the day to avoid the bulk of the crowds. It’s known for its flying heart that soars over the heads of punters at regular intervals. Why, I’m not entirely sure, but it’s cute! In terms of food, there’s a great stand for pork belly sandwiches. There’s also an ice-skating rink on the site. Personally, I have zero coordination so ice-skating is not my idea of a good time, but I guess it might be fun?
Maria-Theresien-Platz
Once you’ve ticked off Rathausplatz, head to the far calmer market in Maria-Theresien-Platz just a short walk around the corner. Sandwiched between the Natural History and Art History museums, it's backdrop of classic Viennese architecture makes it a beautiful spot for a market. It's also one of the larger markets in Vienna, and has a wide selection of food, drink, and shopping.
Stephensplatz
The most central market is Stephensplatz, under the shadow of the beautiful St Stephen's Church. Chances are you'll find yourself round this part of Vienna many times during your trip, so you'll probably end up here at some point! It's a smaller market, so you probably won't be doing all your Christmas shopping here. It's also unsurprisingly rather busy thanks to it's location. However it's ideally placed for grabbing a quick bite or relaxing with a mug of punch after an afternoon exploring. Combine it with a visit to neighbouring Graben street to see the prettiest festive lights.
Am Hof
Though Am Hof is one of the smaller markets, and in a less show-stopping location (though still beautiful!) than some of the others, you’d be remiss to skip it. I personally really enjoyed the more low-key ambience, and the stall themselves felt more elevated. For example, alongside the usual punch it also had a champagne stall and prosecco hut! They key to my heart is bubbles, so I was easily sold. It's very central, so hard to miss, and has a more local vibe which I really enjoyed.
Schönbrunn
Schönbrunn is one of bigger markets in Vienna, and one of the most picturesque. The sprawling grounds of Schönbrunn Palace have been filled with market stalls, as well as a carousel and ferris wheel. There’s all the usual suspects, with plenty of raclette, punch, and shopping to be discovered. Classic Vienna cafe Gerstner has a stall here, serving up schnitzel in a brioche bun. It’s popular, but because it’s such an ample space, it doesn’t feel too crowded.
The palace itself is well worth visiting, with opulent gilded rooms open to the public. There are a number of ticket options, including comprehensive tours, or just the state rooms. Consider combining your visit with the Christmas markets for a quintessentially Viennese afternoon.
Belvedere
The market in the grounds of Belvedere Palace is one of the smallest, but in my opinion, also one of the prettiest. The grounds themselves are beautiful, and carousel against the backdrop of the palace makes for a beautiful sight. There’s not masses of choice in terms of food and drink as it’s quite compact, however it’s well worth stopping by if you’re visiting the palace.
5 things you have to try at the Vienna Christmas Markets
Bratwurst
When in Vienna! Bratwurst is Austrian sausage, usually served in hot dog form, and comes in various different guises. There’s classic, but also cheese and chilli iterations. Or look out for currywurst, which sees it doused in curry sauce.
Glühwein
Glühwein is essentially mulled wine, often infused with spices. There are a few different options available across the markets, but the classic is red. It’s lovely and warming on a cold winter night!
Raclette
Whoever invented molten cheese, I give my thanks. It's particularly delightful on a crisp Vienna winter evening. There are a few different options - try it topped on potatoes with bacon for a classic Austrian food experience.
Punch
I was truly overwhelmed by the number of different options there are for punch at the Vienna Christmas Markets! There’s classic, Lillet Apfelstrudel, Malfy Gin, just to name a few.
Langos
Langos are a Hungarian deep-fried flatbread with sweet and savoury toppings. I’ll admit I didn’t actually get a chance to try one myself, but I’m so intrigued. An excuse to return!
Things To Do in Vienna
When you’re not Christmas market hopping, there’s plenty more things to do in Vienna! I’d done a lot of the main sights during a previous trip to the city, so we focussed more on festive activities this time around. However I’ve included a few highlights and can’t miss experiences, just in case you tire of glühwein and festive shopping!
Coffee and Cake in a Viennese Cafe
Cafe culture is popular in most cities, but in Vienna, it's an art form. So much so, that Viennese coffee houses are in fact listed as a UNESCO intangible cultural assets. The many cafes dotted throughout are a wonderful place to discover the history and heritage of the city, with many of the more iconic institutions having been around since the 1800s. Cafe Central (pictured) is arguably the most famous of these, as evidenced by the perpetual queue snaking it's way across the exterior. Book a reservation in advance to skip the queue! Alternatively, Gerstner boasts ornate interiors, Cafe Sacher Wien in the Hotel Sacher (pictured) is known for the original Sacher-torte, and Demel is the place to go for all things sweet. Wherever you end up, don't forget to try a slice of apple strudel!
Shop my Vienna Wardrobe
See the Christmas Lights
Part of what makes the festive season in Vienna so magical is the sparkling canopies of lights that, well, light up the city. You'll find Christmas light displays all over, but the most famous (and my personal favourite) are the elegant chandelier lights along Graben. From here, you'll also find the shimmering display pictured along perpendicular Kohlmarkt. Nearby Kärntner Straße is another beautiful street for twinkling festive lights.
The Austrian National Library
Vienna has many, many grand buildings, so many so that it can be rather overwhelming deciding which to actually visit. There's a plethora of museums, art galleries, theatres and opera houses, all of which are more opulent than the last. A personal favourite, however, is the Austrian National Library. At 10 Euros for a ticket to visit the palatial State Hall, it's relatively affordable to visit, and boasts some of the most beautiful interiors in Vienna. A bold claim in such a spectacular city, I know! With frescoed ceilings overlooking over 200,000 historic books, it's a true work of art. The library is popular and queues for tickets can be long, but if you buy a ticket in advance, you can usually head straight in.
Restaurants in Vienna
You’ll probably spend the vast majority of your mealtimes trying to decide between raclette and loaded jacket potatoes at the Vienna Christmas Markets - however if you decide to venture further afield, these are a few restaurants we particularly enjoyed.
Huth Gastwirtschaft
Huth Gastwirtschaft was a recommendation from our hotel receptionist for modern Austrian cuisine. It’s conveniently only a short walk from The Hoxton, making it ideal for when you don’t want to go too far afield. Generally Austrian food is seen as heavy, rustic, and not exactly elevated. However Huth is redefining Austrian cuisine with a modern, sophisticated take on classic dishes. It's still hearty, honouring the traditions of Austrian cooking, but manages to dodge the stodginess.
We tried the "Grammelknödel" to start, a dish comprising of dumplings filled with greaves, on a bed of sauerkraut and crispy greaves. I admit, I had no idea what greaves were and a quick google hasn't entirely enlightened me, however they were some of the best dumplings we had on the trip. For mains, they serve a classic "Boiled Beef", which sounds pretty unappealing, but was actually pretty good. I went for the "Cordon Bleu de luxe" schnitzel, which takes a classic schnitzel, stuffs it with ham and cheese, and grates truffle on top. Because what dish isn't improved by cheese and truffle?
Cucina Itameshi
If I had to guess what my favourite meal from Vienna would be prior to the trip, I would never have guessed this. Cucina Itameshi was a completely unique concept to my tastebuds, fusing together Italian and Japanese cuisine. I'm no stranger to fusion restaurants, but this was a new one for me. And turns out, it's a winner. The menu offers a selection of small plates, including raw dishes, salads, and grills. We started things off with the shogun salad, in enough dressing and loaded with cheese that any nutritional value was cancelled out - but I'm on holiday, and we all know holiday calories don't count, right? Then the seabream crudo to follow, delicate morsels of raw fish that allowed the freshness of the produce to sing. My favourite dish, however, was the tsukemen bolognese - whoever thought to combine a classic bolognese with the umami of Japanese flavours should get a raise. Oh, and save room for dessert! We devoured the panna cotta with olive oil, lemon, and balsamic, but the tiramisu also looks incredible.
Brasserie Palmenhaus
Set inside a converted greenhouse, Brasserie Palmenhaus is probably one of the most beautiful locations for a meal in the whole city. The plant filled space is it’s a coveted spot, so I’d recommend booking in advance. We visited for breakfast, which is a fairly limited offering (I'd recommend visiting later in the day to indulge in the full menu). I'd heard that the food wasn't particularly good, and while it wasn't mind-blowing, our breakfast was decent. I mean, you can't really mess up bacon and eggs too much! If you go back for their main menu, let me know how it is...
Chinacy
Once we’d had our fair share of schnitzel and bratwurst, we decided to try one of the city’s many Asian restaurants. Chinacy is conveniently central, but on a cosy backstreet that meant it doesn’t feel too touristy. The menu is one of those that’ll have you wanting to try everything: bao, dim sim, “tapas” size plates and heaving mains that all sounded completely delicious. I was eyeing up the ribs, which were served piled high and thick with sauce! In the end we decided to go for small plates to try as much as possible. These included soup dumplings, chilli chicken, gyoza, spring rolls and won-ton soup. The dumplings and gyoza were standouts, whilst the won-ton soup lacked a bit of flavour. All in all though, a bustling, vibrant spot for a bite to eat after sightseeing.
More Christmas: The Ultimate Guide to Christmas in London
There's so many things to do in Vienna during Christmas that I'm sure I've barely scratched this surface, however I hope this Christmas in Vienna guide is a helpful starting point for planning your holidays to Vienna. The Vienna Christmas markets are such a special experience that truly capture the spirit of the season, but there's also so much else to do besides. If you've been to Vienna and have any further tips for enjoying the city during the festive season, please do share them in the comments below. If you're planning a trip, enjoy!
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