Athens is a city where ancient history meets a thriving modern culture, culminating in a unique blend of old and new. Steeped in mythology and history, Athens is often regarded as the cradle of Western civilization. But beyond its ancient temples and marble columns lies a city that pulses with creative energy. From wandering the storied ruins of the Acropolis to sipping on freddo cappuccinos in sun-soaked squares, the vibrant capital offers something for every traveller. Many travellers choose to skip the Greek capital of Athens in favour of sunning themselves on quaint Greek Islands, however you'd be remiss to not include it in your itinerary. Whether you're exploring its world-class museums, gorging on gyros, or soaking up its buzzing nightlife, there's so much to see and do.
I spent several nights in Athens in November 2024, as England's mens football team were playing Greece in the city. Having been to the city several years prior, I didn't do masses of sightseeing, instead focussing on discovering the best brunch spots, authentic local dining, and quirky local bars. If you're planning a trip, this Athens travel guide will help you uncover the best things to do in Athens, from iconic landmarks to hidden gems - and of course, the best place for a cocktail!
The Athens Travel Guide
Athens 101
- Getting to Athens: You'll most likely arrive in Athens at the international airport, "Eleftherios Venizelos". However, Athens is also connected by ferry to a number of domestic and international locations, and trains are also an option.
- When to visit Athens: Thanks to its Mediterranean location, Athens is pretty temperate year round. As with most European destinations, I'd recommend visiting in shoulder season (April-June, September-October) to avoid the worst of the crowds and still enjoy mild temperatures.
- Getting from the airport into Athens: The most convenient way to travel to and from Athens airport and the centre of the city is the R3 metro line. A ticket costs 9 Euros one way, or you can get a three day tourist ticket, which is 20 Euros for unlimited travel for three days, and the return airport journey. The trains aren't very regular (roughly every half an hour), so factor this into your planning. The journey takes around an hour to the main stops, Syntagma and Monastiraki, from where you can change to other lines. To get around using public transport in Athens, I'd recommend downloading Citymapper.
- Getting around Athens: The centre of Athens is very walkable, most journeys take around 20 minutes. Alternatively the metro is great for longer distances.
- Safety in Athens: Like many major cities, Athens has a reputation for being rife with pickpockets, so keep your belongings close.
- What to pack for a trip to Athens: You'll likely be doing a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are a must. If you visit outside Summer, it can get chilly and rainy (I visited in November, and experienced both) so layers and an umbrella or rain jacket are a good shout. But also, the city is awash with shopping options from local goods to H&M, so you'll be fine to pick up anything you've forgotten.
Where to Stay in Athens
Budget Athens Hotels
- Regal Hotel Mitropoleos: An unremarkable exterior and lobby lead to one of the best secret rooftops for breakfast Acropolis views (pictured). The location, between bustling Monastiraki and picturesque Plaka, is hard to beat at this price (we paid £78 a night in November).
- A for Athens: You arguably can't get more in the centre of things than A for Athens, right off Monastiraki Square. It's also home to one of the most iconic Athens views from the rooftop bar. Off season a budget room is under £100 a night.
- Belle Epoque Suites: A chic Art-Deco inspired hotel in a great part of town, with many room options under £100.
Mid-Range Athens Hotels
- The Pinnacle: A sleek, modern hotel with Acropolis rooftop views.
- St George Lycabettus Hotel: Modern amenities and an outdoor pool make this a strong choice for a comfortable Athens stay away from the noise of the centre.
- Mona Athens: One for the fashion girlies, Mona is an intimate boutique experience for the aesthetes amongst us.
Luxury Athens Hotels
- The Dolli: The rooftop pool views overlooking The Acropolis alone are enough to make this one of the most luxurious stays in Athens
- Four Seasons Astir Palace: Forego the bustle of the city and head to the Athens Riviera for sea and sun at this stylish Four Seasons property
- 91 Athens Riviera: Glamping taken to all new levels of bougie at this chic Riviera hot spot
- Hotel Grande Bretagne: Take a break from the grittiness of Athens streets at this iconic luxury hotel with one of the best pool areas in the city.
Things to do in Athens
The Acropolis
Of all the things to do in Athens, this one is a must-see. The Acropolis is easily the most famous and iconic symbol of the city, a timeless symbol of ancient Greek civilization perched majestically above the city skyline. The site houses a number of landmarks, most notably the Parthenon, a temple dedicated to Athena, the city’s patron goddess. Though largely in ruins, it's still an epic sight, and a fascinating place to soak up the centuries of rich ancient Greek history and heritage. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus, an ancient stone theatre, is another beautiful monument within the complex. It's not open to the general public, however you can view it from above - and keep an eye out for live concerts and performances held here.
The Acropolis is unsurprisingly a popular sight. Therefore I'd recommend visiting early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the crowds. Tickets can be purchased online to skip the queues, and a guided tour reveals the fascinating stories behind the site’s enduring legacy. If you want more history, you can also get a combined ticket that includes the Acropolis Museum, housing artefacts found on the site.
Mount Lycabettus
Something you soon discover after a couple of days in Athens, is that much of the sightseeing and activities involve some sort of view of The Acropolis. Be it rooftop bars (of which there are many, but more on that later), be it viewpoints (again, many), you'll often find yourself coming back to that iconic Acropolis view.
One of the very best places to see not just the Acropolis, but the entire city, is from Mount Lycabettus. The highest point in central Athens, the views extend all the way down to the Mediterranean Sea. You can either walk up the many steps, or forego the worst of it and take a cab (we chose the latter). Head up for sunrise or sunset to experience the skies turning pink. There's a number of cafes and restaurants in the vicinity if you're looking for a bite with a view.
Explore Plaka and Anafiotika
You'd be mistaken for thinking that Athens is not a very pretty city. Sure, it's got some gritty bits, however there are also a fair few picturesque neighbourhoods to discover. Two of these are Plaka and Anafiotika. Plaka is one of the more touristy neighbourhoods in Athens, but not without good reason. The bougainvillea lined streets are always buzzing, with people spilling out of the many restaurants, shops, and bars. Anafiotika is only minutes away, but is a quieter residential neighbourhood. For a moment you're transported into the charm of a Greek Island - until you turn a corner and see that classic Athens graffiti, that is.
Philopappos Hill
Because one Acropolis view just isn't enough! (If you keep reading, I have even more...). Whereas from Lycabettus Hill, the Acropolis is fairly small amidst a sprawling cityscape, from Philopappos Hill you're right up close. This open air destination is free to visit, and hosts it's own sights, including The Prison of Socrates. I visited in the early hours, to enjoy the sun rising over the city. There are multiple spots from which to ascend, and the walk takes about 10-15 minutes.
Breakfast and Brunch in Athens
Bougatsadiko Psirri
When researching places for breakfast one morning before a flight, I discovered that the Greek are most certainly not early risers. At best, breakfast restaurants seem to open at 8am, with some not opening till 10. In the end, I settled on Bougatsadiko Psirri as basically the only place open and serving breakfast at 7am.
However, this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. A traditional pie shop, Bougatsadiko serves up fresh baked goods stuffed with all sorts of delicious sweet and savoury ingredients like custard, cheese, and pastrami. There's plenty of outdoor and indoor seating, making it a good spot for people watching on a backstreet minutes from Monastiraki.
Mid tucking into their moreish sausage pastry, two policeman arrived to pick up their morning coffee and breakfast, at which point my partner and I unanimously turned to each other and said "you know it’s good when...!".
Usurum
Whilst I love trying local cuisine, sometimes I just wake up craving breakfast staples like eggs and bacon! Therefore I always make it my mission when travelling to find a good spot for a classic breakfast / brunch. As it turns out, Athens is awash with great spots to get your egg fix. After an early start to visit The Acropolis, we ended up at Usurum in the vibrant neighbourhood of Psirri. With a heaving brunch menu of both classic brunch staples, and unique twists, it's the perfect place to line your stomach for sightseeing. There's eggs all sorts of different ways, as well as a selection of healthy bowls, and sweet dishes like pancakes and french toast.
I settled on the steak open sandwich with smoked cheese and caramelised onions topped with a generous portion of rocket, and it was everything my brunch-loving heart desired. The steak was perfectly tender, and the pop of tartness from the onion offset it beautifully. My only gripe is that service was a bit cold. However for a good brunch, it's a small price to pay!
Folk
Sometimes when travelling things don't go as expected, but the universe has other plans for you. Such was the way when we were turned away from heaving, achingly hip spot The Makers. Our rumbling tummies instead led us to brunch spot Folk, where we turned up just in time to nab the last outdoor table. With striped awnings and generously assembled foliage, it's a picturesque spot to watch the world go by on a lively Athens corner. Folk offers an extensive breakfast and all day food menu, the highlight of which was around a dozen different versions of eggs benedict. Or if eggs aren't your thing (can't relate), there's sandwiches, pancakes, and waffles aplenty to choose from.
Restaurants in Athens
Avli
Avli demonstrates that "don't judge a book by it's cover" very much extends from the realm of publishing to restaurants. First off, there are the photos of the food on Google Maps, which honestly very nearly put us off. It looked rustic, to put it kindly. Then there is it's non-descript location, behind a graffiti covered door on an unremarkable door, with very little signage.
However, traverse past said door and you're greeted by a secret courtyard, transporting diners from a gritty Athens backstreet to the charming white-washed walls and blue shutters of a Greek island. And the food is definitely rustic, but in a delightful way. A long list of mezze dishes sites Greek classics such as stuffed vine leaves, omelettes, and various fried meats (actually, various fried everything). It's the perfect sort of no frills food to share with a group of friends over a beer (or Ouzo, if you've got the taste for it). I'd recommend the humble yet mightly split peas, but there's no bad dishes. Arrive soon after opening, as queues soon form. Turns out, it's not so secret after all.
Yiasemi
Rows of higgledy steps lined with restaurants, spilling out with tables and chairs and aesthetically framed with bougainvillea, is one of the most picturesque sights of the bustling Plaka neighbourhood. These are Erectheos and Mniskleous, both of which are host to a number of eateries all trying to lure in the swathes of tourists wandering along Lisiou Street. It's pretty much a rite of passage as a tourist in Athens, to pull up a pew and order yourself a Greek coffee and moist orange cake, or a full blown grill platter if you're so inclined, and soak up the atmosphere.
We decided to tuck into the aforementioned coffee and some light bites at quaint cafe Yiasemi on Mniskleous. The menu is light mezze dishes, with a focus on pies and tarts, both sweet and savoury. We devoured the olive pie with feta cheese and tomato, and were less impressed with the grilled goats cheese, which had congealed. We didn't, however, get to their hefty list of sweet treats, something I'm seriously regretting right now as I peruse their menu whilst writing this piece. Someone try the chocolate and pistacho tart, and report back please?
O Thanasis
It would be easy to overlook the bustling street off Monastiraki Square that O Thanasis sits on as touristy, and to be avoided at all costs. I know my usual logic when picking restaurants is to avoid main squares and the throngs of tourist traps that surround. However I'd seen O Thanasis mentioned a couple of times when doing research, and my interest was piqued.
The restaurant actually has two spots mere yards from each other, with tables spilling out onto the streets (ideally placed for people watching). Inside looks like any other Greek taverna - although a proudly displayed sign advertises it as one of the most legendary restaurants in the world (number 42, according to Taste Atlas). The menu is a simple laminated list of souvlakis, kebabs, and wraps. We tucked into a kebab with yoghurt, and a pork souvlaki. The former is loaded up with the aforementioned yoghurt, making the flatbread below delightfully soggy as it mingles with the meat juices. The pork souvlaki could arguably have done with a sauce to give the dish some depth, although the meat itself was perfectly well cooked. The €2 wine is dubious the best, but for €2, who am I to complain?
A popular spot, however food comes quickly and people come and go grabbing gryos for the road, so turnaround is fast. The service is gruff and no nonsense, but friendly enough. And there's enough locals popping in for a kebab to make it feel authentically not just another tourist trap.
To Kafeneio
On our last night in Athens, we earmarked two Plaka restaurants next to each other as possible destinations for dinner. On arrival, the first, Restaurant Scholarhio, was busy with guests, whilst the other, To Kafeneio, sat deserted. Now usually common sense tells you to visit the one that's busy. However after perusing both menus we decided to ignore those instincts, and chose to patronise the latter. And I'm so glad we did. To Kafeneio ended up being a lovely rustic Greek taverna, hosting a roaring fire and offering up a menu of classic dishes and mezze, as well as a few twists. The zucchini fritters were moist and flavourful, and the meatballs with "the" sauce are a must order - I don't know what was in that sauce, but I could eat a vat of it!
Bars and Drinking in Athens
Long time readers will know just how much I love a quirky bar. Whatever city I'm in, I'll always hunt one (or five!) down to share with you. In Athens, I discovered Juan Rodriguez. It's kind of like if Pirates of The Caribbean was turned into a bar, all rich velvet drapery, chintzy tassled lampshades, and skull ornamentation. It verges on tacky, but thankfully just about stops short.
The experience is elevated by genuinely good cocktails. The cocktail menu is inspired by mafia bosses, which again, could be kitsch but are elevated enough not to feel gimmicky. The Lucky Luciano (a blend of tequila, lime, vanilla, pear, and ginger beer) had no obvious bearing on the Italian-American gangster. However it tasted like Christmas in a glass, so I was a fan!
Juan Rodriguez Bar
Brettos
Brettos proudly distinguishes itself as the oldest distillery in Greece, tracing it's roots all the way back to 1909. Quite the claim to fame, and certainly not the only reason to visit this weird and wonderful Plaka establishment. The walls are lined with colourful backlit bottles, reminiscent of the apothecaries of yesteryear. Within these bottles are a variety of Greek liqueurs, brandies, ouzos, and a whole lot more. As such, the menu is impressively extensive, with a liqueur made of pretty much every kind of fruit you can think of. Or if you'd rather play it safe, they've got many, many cocktails to choose from. It's definitely touristy, but totally worth the hype.
360 Rooftop Bar
It seems that almost every building in the Monastiraki area has a bar promising Acropolis views perched atop its rooftop. In fact it can be a bit daunting deciding which to bestow your patronage upon. So being the kind souls we are, we decided to do the legwork for you by trying as many as we could fit in.
In doing so, we definitely discovered that not all Athens rooftops are born equal. Some have views, but poor service, others, cocktails so bad they were undrinkable (funnily enough, that one didn't make the guide). Of all the ones we visited, the highlight was 360 Rooftop. Tucked around a corner just off Monastiraki square, it's far from a secret. In fact, the roof level is packed most afternoons, and the best seats in the house facing the Acropolis are nigh on impossible to snag.
But despite being rammed, service was friendly, and the drinks were the best we discovered during our rooftop researching. The cocktail menu is inspired by the Greek Islands, with tipples named after iconic destinations like Santorini and Corfu, as well as a few lesser known islands thrown in. Beautifully fresh and delicately balanced, they were the perfect accompaniment to watch the sun set over Athens.
Buena Vista Social Bar
Some experiences are the result of hours of research, planning, and travel to be at the right place, at the right time. Others, like Buena Vista Social Bar, are the product of a frantic google maps search for "bars nearby" when the weather takes a turn and the heavens open over Athens. But clearly the rain was a blessing in disguise, because we ended up cosied up in this playful Cuban inspired bar. The best bit? Acropolis views, but thankfully shielded from the rain with a covered roof. There is also an outdoor terrace on better days. And if you're peckish, a food menu of skewers, burgers, and tacos. Oh, and a rather inviting looking brunch, which is definitely on my radar next time I'm in the city.
A for Athens
When it comes to rooftop views, A for Athens is hard to beat. In a prime location overlooking Monastiraki Square whilst the Acropolis towers overhead, it's one of the most iconic vistas in the whole of the city. However, when it comes to praise for this rooftop bar, it kind of stops there. On my visit, the service was painfully slow. And, when they finally did turn up to take our order (after asking several times), surly. And then when it did arrive, I was not a fan of my drink. Admittedly, probably my own fault for picking a cocktail with blue cheese and mushroom (I was intrigued!), but still, my drink shouldn't be tasting like old sock. Adam liked his drink though, so I guess they're not all bad? And well, those views. Worth it? I'll let you make your own mind up on that one.
Though it's far from comprehensive, I hope this Athens travel guide has been helpful, and provides a starting point for your own Grecian adventures. If you have any other recommendations for things to do in Athens please do pop them in the comments below!
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