There's few trips more bucket list headline slot worthy than a US road trip. It's one of the ultimate road trip destinations, with so many incredible routes to offer the adventurous traveller. Route 66, the Pacific Coast Highway, Natchez Trace, and many more, are all icons of road trip lore.
This West Texas road trip may fly under the radar compared to some of the more well known routes, but therein lies its charm. Whilst Texas' big hitters, such as Dallas and Austin, are fairly well traversed, West Texas remains relatively undiscovered, at least with international tourism. It's a true hidden gem.
I spent four nights on a West Texas road trip, and found myself falling in love with the Texan desert. The landscapes are a marvel. Long, open roads lead through valleys, flat as far as the eye can see, then suddenly at a turn you're surrounded by mountains. But there's also so many unique towns and sights along the way.
We spent two nights in the rural town of Marfa, which has become an unexpected artistic hub in the desert. For a further two nights, Terlingua was our base, a dramatically barren yet lively town on the edge of Big Bend National Park. I've included tips for both in this guide, including where to stay, eat, and activities in each.
I hope this West Texas road trip guide provides you with a starting point or initial spark of inspiration for planning your own Texas adventures.
(AD - This trip was organised by Travel Texas, however as always, all words and thoughts my own)
West Texas Road Trip 101
- Money and Currency: The currency is the US dollar ($). Most places take card, however a handful are cash only, so I'd recommend taking some with you. For my international readers, a reminder that tipping culture is strong in the USA - the standard is usually 20% for meals. And remember that tax gets added on top of the prices you see on menus and labels!
- When to visit West Texas: Spring and Autumn (Fall) are the ideal times to visit, particularly if you're looking to hike. Texas is at its most temperate, although it will also be busiest then. I visited in mid June, and concentrated our activities around morning and evening to avoid the midday heat.
- How to get to West Texas: From Dallas, we flew into Midland Intl, and drove three hours from there to Marfa. You could also fly into El Paso. Alternatively if you want the full road trip experience, Marfa is 8 hours drive from Dallas, or a more manageable 6.5 from Austin.
- How long to spend in West Texas: We had four nights, which was sufficient as a taster of the region. However if you want to do a few hikes or activities in Big Bend, or explore more towns on the way, I'd plan for a week.
- How to travel round West Texas: Somewhat unsurprisingly, by car. We rented a car from Hertz at Midland Intl, however there are a number of car rental options.
- What to pack for a West Texas trip: This will really depend on the time of year you're visiting. However as a base, light, airy clothes will serve you well, with comfortable sandals and hiking boots for Big Bend. Oh, and don't forget your cowboy boots!
- West Texas Top 5: See the iconic Prada Marfa, eat barbecue and Tex-Mex, hike your way around Big Bend National Park, drive the Ross Maxwell Scenic Route, and glamp under the stars.
Marfa
An artistic community in the middle of the Texan desert sounds pretty improbable, but that's exactly what Marfa is. This small town has become one of the major arts hubs in the state, with a number of artists and galleries calling Marfa home. The walls are awash with street art; installations pop up in the most unexpected of places.
It's a popular celebrity spot - a favourite haunt of Texan actor Matthew McConaughey and wife Camilla Alves, and even Beyonce has a snap outside the iconic Prada Marfa installation.
But Marfa also has its own wonderful weirdness - if you're lucky you might spot the famous "Marfa Mystery Lights", otherworldly flashing orbs that inexplicably light up the night sky. It's also known for having some of the clearest skies in the country, and on a clear night you might even see the Milky Way.
Where to stay in Marfa
El Cosmico
My experience with camping is confined to school trips, trying to pitch a flimsy tent in the local field while the rain lashes down, and in later years, knee deep in mud at festivals. Far from glamorous, or even particularly comfortable.
However at El Cosmico in Marfa, camping is given a stylish upgrade. Piddly plastic tents are replaced with retro camper vans, teepees, and yurts, decked out with all the necessary amenities. The trailers are a standout, from small to extra large options, all uniquely decorated in pastel hues and playful prints. Whilst there are communal bathrooms and kitchens, our camper van was completely self-sufficient, with a kitchen and en-suite bathroom. There's even Dutch Hot Tubs on site for a sunset dip, or midnight stargazing. If I'd known camping could be so chic, I'd have been converted long ago!
Things to do in Marfa
Prada Marfa
Possibly the most iconic image of Marfa is that of Prada Marfa, a permanent art installation by artists Elmgreen & Dragset located on Route 90. A life size, non-functional replica of a Prada boutique in the middle of the desert, the installation was initially expected to be temporary, but has become a popular fixture on a West Texas road trip itinerary. When installed in 2005, the artwork was intended as a critique on consumerism and gentrification. Nonetheless it contains genuine Prada pieces donated by Miuccia Prada - although vandals were disappointed to find only right footed shoes.
Nowadays, the project has taken on a life of its own. Tourists flock from all around to take pictures, and leave padlocks on the surrounding fences. These days, it's arguably more interesting as a comment on social media culture.
Prada Marfa is free to visit and open year round, though you can't go inside the structure. It's actually 30 minutes from Marfa, and closer to the town of Valentine, but hey, who's counting.
"Giant" Marfa Mural
1956 Western epic "Giant", starring James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor, was filmed on a ranch in Marfa, Texas. It's been immortalised by artist John Cerney with these larger than life depictions of the film and it's stars, just five miles outside Marfa on Highway 90. Musician Michael Nesmith also created a soundtrack which plays out on a loop alongside the artwork. It's a somewhat surreal sight in the middle of the Texas desert, but it's all part of Marfa's charm.
Ballroom Marfa
For such a small town (Marfa is home to fewer than 2000 residents), there are a surprising number of art galleries and museums in Marfa, giving the town its artistic reputation. One such is Ballroom Marfa, a free contemporary art gallery and performance space housed in a 1920s ballroom. A couple of small gallery spaces and a courtyard play host to rotating exhibitions. Check the website for latest listings and events.
The Judd Foundation
Famed minimalist Donald Judd was one of Marfa's most famous inhabitants, purchasing a number of properties throughout the town that he converted to art studios and spaces to showcase his works. These can be visited through guided tours, which need to be booked in advance. Over several downtown spaces visitors can view a selection of paintings and furniture by both Judd and other contemporaries. It's a fascinating opportunity to discover Judd's work and history, as well as the artistic legacy that makes Marfa such an art institution.
The Chinati Foundation
The Chinati Foundation was purchased by Donald Judd in 1986 as a space to house large scale works of art. It houses a mix of permanent works and temporary exhibitions, as well as performances, talks, and events.
Guided tours are the most comprehensive way to explore the collection. A full tour is $30 for 6 hours or a selections tour comes in at $25 for 3 hours. Alternatively, Judd's on-site work "15 untitled works in concrete" is open for free viewing between 9-4pm. There's also seasonal open viewing of a selection of other works for $15.
Stardust Motel
Standing on a stretch of Highway 90 on the route to Marfa is a classic American Road Trip symbol - the motel sign. However Marfa's incarnation, advertising "Stardust Motel", is peeling around the edges, the letters faded by time and the elements. The motel it's advertising is long gone, and yet the sign remains. It's now a popular photo spot, particularly when paired with the star-heavy Marfa night skies.
Marfa Mystery Lights
One of the more weird and wonderful occurrences Marfa is known for is the Marfa Mystery Lights. These mysterious glowing orbs appear randomly in the night on the desert horizon, and no one has been able to explain why they appear. Head to the viewing area 9 miles east of town on U.S. 90, towards Alpine, and hopefully you'll get lucky. Unfortunately the night we planned on visiting it was cloudy and rainy so we called it off, but do leave a comment below if you get to spot them - I'd love to know what you saw!
Restaurants in Marfa
Margaret's
We first turned up in Marfa on a late Wednesday afternoon, hungry and eager for some grub. However, it turns out that Marfa is very much a weekend town, and most restaurants are only open Thursday-Sunday. Furthermore, most casual eateries only seem to be open for breakfast and lunch - so definitely do your research in advance to avoid going hungry!
Luckily, we stumbled upon Margaret's, a modern American spot in the centre of town. Housed in the beautiful Brite building, it's the kind of effortlessly stylish spot that wouldn't be out of place in London or New York. Inside is sleek and simplistic, with counter dining at the bar, or a number of smaller tables and booths. We cosied up in the window, and tucked into starters of burrata and toast and a sausage plate. For mains we shared a hearty spaghetti bolognese. The prices are also more big city adjacent, but if you're looking for a break from Tex-Mex and barbecue, it's just the spot.
Planet Marfa
Marfa is a town full of quirky happenings and discoveries, and perhaps one of it's finest is Planet Marfa. Spread across several spaces, there's plenty of bizarre and playful memorabilia throughout the space, including an old school bus and dining area in a teepee.
Though it's primarily a bar, we swung by to grab a quick lunch of pizza and hotdogs. The food is simple, but hits the spot. I imagine it's a great spot at night, with a stage for live music.
To really cement the quirkiness, we had one of our most wonderfully surreal moments of the trip at Planet Marfa, with a couple of guys coming up to the bar for a drink... with a horse in tow! Have you heard the one about the horse that walks into a bar? Never mind...
The Water Stop
Our last night in Marfa, and it was bucketing it down (in the Texas desert?! What're the chances!). We were trying to find somewhere to eat after a long, busy day of shooting and exploring. We first stopped by Angel's to find they'd closed early due to flood warnings (if you go, let me know what it's like!). Our stomachs increasingly grumbling, we drove down the main drag until we finally spotted the welcoming lights of The Water Stop. At this point we're just looking for sustenance, but were pleasantly surprised to walk into a thoughtfully decorated space with plenty of Marfa flair. Dark green walls are lined with cases housing antiquities, whilst framed prints overlook diners, and a playful neon 80s-esque bar.
The menu is a mix of salads, burgers, and classic plates like grain bowls and steak. We decided to be healthy with a grain bowl... and a burger to cancel it out, of course! The food was entirely welcome having come so close to going hungry, and the staff were lovely, making it a wonderful experience for our final Marfa night.
Marfa Burritos
When it's been endorsed by Matthew McConaughey, you know you've got to give it a go. Such is the case with Marfa institution Marfa Burritos, a no-frills Mexican burrito spot mere yards from El Cosmico. The walls are covered in scrawlings from previous punters and photos of celebrity visits. Marfa Burritos menu itself is simple - a selection of breakfast and general options, each coming in around $10. It feels very authentically Mexican, with a focus on good flavours and no flourishes. Marfa Burritos is only open for breakfast and lunch, closing at 2pm, so plan accordingly.
The Sentinel
Part cafe, part shop, part event space, and on top of all that, it's also home to local newspaper, The Big Bend Sentinel. Housed in a sprawling Adobe building, The Sentinel is a Marfa hub that's bustling with a mix of diners catching up over brunch and coffee, and remote laptop workers settled in for a morning of emails. We were the former, stopping by for our morning iced coffee fix, paired with pancakes and a breakfast taco off the breakfast menu. Portions are small, but perfectly formed, and it's a great place to start the day.
Big Bend
Named after its location on the curve of the Rio Grande on the Mexican border, Big Bend is an otherworldly Texas destination. The Big Bend region covers a national and state park, as well as a number of small towns and communities, including Terlingua, Lajitas, and Marathon. It's largely popular with active travellers, with plenty of hiking, water sports, and even a famous golf course.
It’s my job to make the place I photograph look as good, if not better, then they are in reality. However, I found myself consistently repeating “I can’t do this place justice” in Big Bend. The landscapes are so immense, so starkly beautiful, that it's hard to capture within the confines of a camera lens. I’ve tried my best to paint a picture of it for you, but believe me when I tell you, it’s even better in real life.
Where to stay in Big Bend
Terlingua Escondido
I’ll be honest, I wasn’t expecting to be wowed by a yurt. In my mind, they’re basic, functional, and essentially just a bed for the night. However, Terlingua Escondido changed the game for me. With thoughtfully curated furnishings, a fully stocked kitchen, and a bathroom that wouldn’t be out of place in a decent hotel, it’s seriously putting the glam in glamping. I wasn’t expecting it to be so well equipped, with everything you could need including toiletries, coffee, and even a hairdryer. It’s conveniently located in Terlingua, just minutes from a number of restaurants, and a great base for the national park. If you’re not a fan of creepy crawlies you might struggle as we did find ourselves fighting a battle against a particularly enthusiastic ant trail, but hey, it’s all part and parcel of desert living!
Things to do in Big Bend
Santa Elena Canyon
The Big Bend National Park is home to a number of incredible views and trails, however the "poster child" of the region is arguably the Santa Elena Canyon. Reachable on an hour drive along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive (see below), it's one of the more remote spots, but well worth the journey. Limestone cliffs tower 1500 metres over the Rio Grande, which can be viewed from the overlook, or the canyon floor. The latter is part of a relatively short and easy walking trail. The spot featured is only about a 5/10 minute walk from the car park at the trailhead, and from here you can follow a path along the canyon. It's also popular for water sports such as rafting and canoeing, which can be booked locally.
Chisos Basin and the Window View
The Chisos Mountains are a mountain range in the heart of the Big Bend National Park. At the Chisos Basin there's a campground, the only hotel in the park, and a visitor centre. If you're looking to stock up on supplies or find out information before embarking on a hike, it's a great place to start.
The Chisos Basin is also the main hub for a number of hiking trails. We stopped off here to embark on the Window View Trail, which at 0.3miles is really more of a stroll than a hike. But despite being so short, you're rewarded with brilliant views of the surrounding mountains and valley beyond. If you're looking for something a little more taxing, there's also a moderate route called the Window Trail. At 5.5 miles roundtrip from Chisos Basin, it's a fairly straightforward downhill, but rather more challenging coming back up!
Terlingua Ghost Town
Terlingua was home to the Chisos Mining Company in the early 1900s. However when mercury crashed in the 1940s, the miners abandoned the town, turning it into a "ghost town". Nowadays it's a popular base for those exploring Big Bend. Starlight Theatre (see below) is one of the highlights, an old movie theatre that is now one of the most popular restaurants in the area. The Theatre shares a porch with the Terlingua Trading Company, which was previously the old company store of the Chisos Mining Company. It's an extensive store filled with all sort of local goods and souvenirs, from fringed leather jackets to hot sauce. I had to stop myself buying the whole store! I did however manage to cajole Adam into buying me a very cute cowboy boot Christmas ornament, which I'm looking forward to hanging on the tree as a memento of our trip! The other main sight of Terlingua Ghost town is the cemetery, the final resting place of the miners who more often than not sadly succumbed to fatal mining accidents in the region.
Lost Mine Trail
One of the hardest decisions we had to make on our West Texas road trip was which of the countless hiking trails in Big Bend to embark on. With only two nights in the region, and so many activities to experience, we only realistically had time for one. In the end we settled on the Lost Mine Trail, enticed by the promise of breathtaking views out over the Chisos Mountains.
The Lost Mine Trail heads uphill through rare greenery, offering a range of views throughout the trail. We headed out at golden hour, with the intention of reaching the peak in time to enjoy the sunset. However we realised about half way up that the sun was going down a lot faster than we'd expected. This led to us having to get a shift on, sharpish. We just about made it, sweaty and bedraggled, to take in the final wisps of pink sky and golden sun, before it disappeared behind the mountains for the night.
Less enjoyable was the hike back down in the dark, keeping an ear out for the bears and mountain lions that call the region home. In peak times this is one of the more popular hikes. However out of season we were the only ones around, which was a bit eery! But to have the sunset to ourselves was absolutely worth it.
At 4.8 miles roundtrip, it's around 3 hours out and back. There's a decent amount of uphill to reach the peak, therefore a base level of fitness helps, however it's a relatively straightforward route. Make sure to pack plenty of water, and familiarise yourself with how to deal with any animal encounters. Oh, and give yourself plenty of time to make it for sunset!
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
It's not a West Texas road trip without some seriously epic drives! The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive is a roughly one hour route through Big Bend National Park south towards the Rio Grande and Santa Elena Canyon. I’ll start by saying that “scenic” doesn’t even remotely do it justice. Big Bend is full of incredible landscapes, but on this drive we were in awe at every turn. If you’re planning on taking the drive, I’d aim to give yourself plenty of time to stop at the various viewpoints and vistas along the way. It's ideal combined with the Santa Elena Canyon trail. I'd recommend doing the drive around golden hour, as the mountains change colour as the light evolves, then enjoying the canyon at sunset, or vice versa.
Sunrise Horseback Riding
I know I shouldn’t play favourites, but if I had to pick a very favourite moment from the whole trip, it would be sunrise horseback riding in Big Bend. Funnily enough, it was also the experience I had the most trepidation towards pre-trip. I’m allergic to horses, prone to become a snotty mess in their vicinity. I’ve also not been on one in years, let alone tried to capture the experience in the process. However when in Texas, it felt wrong not to do a horseback ride, right?
Luckily, the team at Lajitas Golf Resort are total pros, and had us completely at ease. The horses are mild-mannered and well trained - although my mare tried to eat everything in reach! There are a number of different routes around the region, and our guide took us on the “Lost Mine Trail”. It’s uneven ground so can be a bit bumpy in places, but even as a riding novice I felt comfortable the whole time.
The views were absolutely beautiful, particularly as the sun slowly came up and the sky went from wisps of pink to golden hues over the desert. Oh, and my antihistamines worked a treat! Also can we take a moment for Adam, who hadn’t been on a horse since he was 3, yet managed to capture all these photos whilst atop his steed? I wasn’t sure he’d get much, but I’m so impressed! A natural horseman.
There's a mix of trail rides, including sunrise and sunset trails, riding clinics and boarding. Rides start at $75 at time of writing. You can book online in advance, or enquire further at Lajitas Golf Resort.
Drive the River Road
Whenever we got chatting to Texas locals, there was one activity that kept coming up as a must-do, and that was drive the River Road. Considered one of the most scenic drives in the USA, the route hugs the Rio Grande along Highway 170 through Big Bend State Park. It connects Terlingua and Presidio, with a number of viewpoints and camping spots along the way. There's a fee ($15 at time of writing) to drive the route, payable at Barton Warnock visitor centre.
We didn't do the entire drive, but were able to take in a number of views within about half an hour on route from Lajitas. If I had to pick, if you had to do just one I'd probably say the Ross Maxwell Drive was even more stunning - but it's a close call! There's very little in terms of infrastructure once you're on the road, so make sure to stock up on fuel and supplies in advance.
Restaurants in Big Bend
DB's Rustic Iron BBQ
DB's Rustic Iron BBQ is the kind of casual, no frills eatery that feels like a truly authentic Texan barbecue experience. A simple corrugated metal structure offering both indoor and outdoor dining, with plastic seating and laminated menus, it's far from glamorous. But its appeal lies in the views out over surrounding desert and mountains, making it a rather dramatic spot to tuck into brisket.
The menu itself is equally straightforward - plates of meats and sides, tacos, and sandwiches, as well as larger family style offerings. We chose to share a plate of 2 meats plus two sides for $30, choosing brisket and pork ribs. The portion size wasn't massive for the price, especially considering what we'd become used to in Texas (after all, everything is bigger here!), but sufficient for two. The meat was flavourful and the perfect balance of charred edges and soft, tender bites.
Starlight Theatre
If there's one restaurant that's a Terlingua must-do, it's this. Starlight Theatre, in the heart of the Ghost Town, was an old theatre that fell into disrepair in the 1940s when Terlingua was abandoned. However it's since been transformed into a now bustling restaurant, that felt like the place to be on a Friday night in Big Bend. The menu is full of American comfort classics like chilli, burgers, tacos and steaks. The food looks fairly homespun, but appearances deceive. The website claims gourmet dining, and whilst I wouldn't go that far, it's definitely a more elevated take on both local and international fare.
There's chilli, tacos and burgers, sure, but also filet mignon, and wild caught salmon. I tucked into a "french dip" sandwich of shaved rib eye, caramelised onions and mushrooms, which felt like a gamble in a Texas restaurant, but more than paid off. My partner was intrigued by the chicken fried antelope, which received rave reviews. The live music is also a draw, but expect to wait for a table in peak times.
La Kiva
One of Terlingua's more unique dining spots, La Kiva is built into sandstone boulders with a pre-historic theme. It's a sprawling space, with several different rooms. The menu largely revolves around burgers and sandwiches plus daily specials, hefty portions served with sides of fries and chicharonnes. Like most restaurants in Terlingua, it's rustic, no frills, but a lot of fun and the food is genuinely good, hearty fare.
Venga
Brutalist concrete block Venga would not look out of place in Austin, New York or even East London. But it’s equally at home in the strikingly barren landscape of Terlingua. It feels carefully aimed at the cool young things that converge on Big Bend from the Texas cities to hike and get back into nature. Local art and mismatched gilt framed mirrors line the walls, whilst half the restaurant is dedicated to hiking gear from water bottles and hipster Terlingua vest tops, to tents and dehydrated food supplies.
It’s a popular spot at breakfast, with a solid menu of morning staples such as avocado toast and pancakes. It's nothing mind blowing, but a great spot to fuel up before a day of hiking - or perhaps collapse on one of the many comfy sofas post-hike!
I hope this West Texas road trip guide has helped inspire your future travels. I'd love to know, is this a part of the world you've visited, or if not, are you looking to go? If you have any questions or suggestions, please do leave them in the comments!
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